All of China Awaits Its Snowfall: How This Hidden Top Citywalk Destination Charms Explorers

As a severe cold wave with snow "flash-freezes" much of China, at the foot of the Qinling Mountains lies an ancient capital that has stirred the hearts of countless citywalk enthusiasts with an exhilarating event—

"Xi'an is finally snowing!"

When snow falls, the city transforms into a breathtaking northern spectacle, where ancient relics stand adorned with "Xuanzang's hair turning white overnight."

If Shanghai, which popularized citywalk this year, offers a century-spanning urban stroll, then citywalk in Xi'an is a millennia-leaping journey through time.

The essence of citywalk is chill, but Xi'an locals don’t call it "chill"—they call it "xian" (leisure). Old Xi'aners rise early to walk the city walls, queue for spicy meatball soup, and spend hours crumbling bread in lamb stew restaurants while chatting with staff. New Xi'aners wander through streets and temples, or join crowds at the Great Tang All-Day Mall.

In Xi'an, you can also cityride.

After all, the city’s name in pinyin is "Xi'an"—the "xian" of leisurely calm, and the "xian" of transcendent immortality.

Walking through Xi'an is like listening to a rhapsody of the ancient capital.

Here is the Leyou Plain, where poets "drove chariots to ancient heights"; there, the Xingqing Palace, where "one leaned on railings north of the Chenxiang Pavilion"; heading south, the Qujiang Pool, where "spring winds spurred galloping horses"; turning north, the Xiamaling tomb at the city wall, immortalized by Bai Juyi... Not to mention modern Xi'an, where hanfu-clad women make every street feel like a return to Tang-era Chang'an.

A distant view of Xi'an's urban area around Qujiang.

For 3,000 years, Xi'an's cultural pulse has never faded. The Zhou people built twin capitals Feng and Hao along the Feng River, beginning Xi'an’s legacy as a 13-dynasty capital. The mighty Qin turned the Guanzhong Plain into fertile heartland. Emperor Gaozu of Han named this majestic city Chang'an. By the Tang Dynasty, it was the world’s cultural epicenter, shaping Xi'an’s enduring spirit.

The weight of "Chang'an" makes it every Chinese person’s cultural homeland.

Distribution map of Xi'an’s national-level cultural heritage sites.

Map/Liu Yunshuo; Design/Dongzi

To witness Tang grandeur, the classic (and most crowded) route starts at the Tang Paradise by Qujiang Pool, heads northwest to the Xi'an Museum, home to the Small Wild Goose Pagoda—one of Guanzhong’s "Eight Views"—and Xi'an’s timeless treasures.

An immersive experience of "Twelve Hours in Chang'an."

Along this path stand landmarks like the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, the dazzling Great Tang All-Day Mall, the perennially crowded Shaanxi History Museum, and the surreal contrast of the ancient Daxingshan Temple beside the cyberpunk SEG Mall. A blink spans millennia; a second shifts from Tang splendor to modern CBD.

Follow this route to traverse Tang-era Chang'an.

Map/Liu Yunshuo; Design/Dongzi

The first stop on this Tang journey is Qujiang Pool, formed by the Chan River, a tributary of the Wei.

Qujiang, where the literary brilliance of the Tang people shone brightly. Starting from Emperor Zhongzong of Tang, every March during the flowering season, a banquet was held in Qujiang to celebrate the newly announced imperial examination graduates. The romantic Tang people would select the two youngest and most handsome among the graduates, naming them "Flower Scouts," to tour Chang'an. As the saying goes, "Three hundred deep purple and fragrant flowers bloom for me at dawn," their glory was no less than that of the top graduate. On the first day of April each year, the "Cherry Banquet" was held in Qujiang Garden, described as "returning steeds competing with green silk baskets, palace attendants frequently filling red jade plates," showcasing the grandeur of the Tang Dynasty.

Today, the northern pool of Qujiang has been rebuilt as the Lotus Garden, while the southern lake is known as the Qujiang Heritage Park. It can be enjoyed in all seasons, and though it lacks the grandeur of courtly gatherings and literati recitations, it thrives with visitors from all directions. The Lantern Festival (Shangyuan Festival) recorded in historical texts, with its dazzling lights at Yongning Gate (originally the Tang Dynasty's Anshang Gate), has been elevated to the "Great Tang Never Night City" beside the Lotus Garden, where the sea of lights leaves travelers—drawn by works like *The Longest Day in Chang'an* and *Chang'an 30,000 Li*—utterly mesmerized.

Leaving Qujiang and the Great Tang Never Night City, starting from the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda in Daci'en Temple, we encounter another facet of Tang splendor—the temples. They preserve the layout of Tang Chang'an, where "a thousand households resembled a chessboard, twelve streets like vegetable plots," and chronicle the history of international cultural exchange, from Kumarajiva's arrival in Chang'an during the Later Qin to Xuanzang's "Journey to the West" in the Zhenguan era.

Across Xi'an, ancient temples offer unique charms in every season. In early spring, the Qinglong Temple on Leyou Plain is adorned with thousands of cherry blossoms transplanted from Japan. In midsummer, beneath the Small Wild Goose Pagoda of Jianfu Temple, lotus leaves and vibrant flowers flourish. In autumn, the spider lilies of Daxingshan Temple add a touch of mystery, while the millennia-old ginkgo tree at the Ancient Guanyin Temple in the Zhongnan Mountains defines "golden autumn." In winter, nothing compares to standing before the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda's southern square, contemplating the passage of a thousand years as "Xuanzang's hair turns white overnight."

Top left: Autumn, Ancient Guanyin Temple; Top right: Spring, Qinglong Temple;

Bottom left: Summer, Small Wild Goose Pagoda; Bottom right: Winter, Giant Wild Goose Pagoda.

Top left, top right, bottom left photos by Shehu; Bottom right photo by Yijia.

These temples, often renowned yet hidden in the city, stand as part of Xi'an's cultural life. On one side of their walls lies bustling urban life, while inside, grand halls and courtyards thrive—some with endless incense and visitors, others serene with towering pines and cypresses.

The symbol of Daxingshan Temple—white doves.

Take the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda in the former Daxingshan Temple northwest of Qujiang and the Lotus Garden. Though locals often dismiss it with "What's so special about it?", this ancient pagoda not only houses the Buddhist scriptures Xuanzang brought back from his westward journey but also embodies the elegance of Tang literati. The graduates who attended the Qujiang Banquet would later inscribe their names on the pagoda to mark their glory. Bai Juyi, who famously said "Living in Chang'an is no easy feat," once boasted, "At the foot of Cien Pagoda where names were inscribed, I was the youngest among seventeen," earning widespread fame.

A few miles west of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda lies Daxingshan Temple, hailed by Tang people as "the grandest temple in the capital." Near this "ancestral home of Esoteric Buddhism" is the bustling Xiaozhai commercial center in southern Xi'an. Compared to the crowded skyscrapers, the temple's leisurely doves, free-roaming cats, and the used book market under its red western wall better capture the city's ethereal charm.

From the Tang-inspired journey of "seeing all Chang'an's flowers in a day" to the ancient temples scattered across Xi'an, the city offers visitors an initial cultural shock. But to truly experience Xi'an's authentic, unhurried life, one must wander the old city's streets beneath the city walls.

"Leisurely and unhurried" is Xi'an (Xi'an).

After the Tang Dynasty, Chang'an lost its glory as the capital. As its strategic importance in the northwest grew, the once-dashing young rider gradually matured into a composed and steady middle age.

Xi'an boasts China's largest and best-preserved ancient city walls. In the seventh year of Hongwu (1374), construction began on the Tang imperial city's foundations, forming the base of today's Xi'an city walls. Over centuries of expansion and renovation, they became the formidable structure they are today—13,912 meters in circumference, 12 meters high, 18 meters wide at the base, and 15 meters wide at the top.

Xi'an is often called the "City of Mo (steamed buns)," and the largest "roujiamo (meat sandwich)" in this city is the old urban area encircling the city walls. Locals may rarely climb the walls, but their lives are deeply intertwined with the wall's surroundings. Strolling along the walls allows one to slowly "unwrap" this "millennium mo," savoring its golden crust, tiger-like back, and chrysanthemum-patterned heart.

Map by Liu Yunshuo; Design by Dongzi.

To understand the layout of Xi'an's old city, the first stop is the "chrysanthemum heart" of this "old city mo"—the Bell Tower.

Four Ming Dynasty gates—Changle Gate (East), Anding Gate (West), Yongning Gate (South), and Anyuan Gate (North)—extend four major roads converging at the center. On a square stone base, they frame the 36-meter-high Xi'an Bell Tower, linking east and west, north and south. With its triple eaves, pyramidal roof, and dragon-and-phoenix paintings, its grandeur is second only to Beijing's Bell Tower.

From the Bell Tower, the old city's hub, one can head west to the Drum Tower and Muslim Quarter, east to the Luomashi Pedestrian Street (where locals go "to see fashion"), or south through Yongning Gate toward Xiaozhai's commercial towers—offering the most direct way to understand this ancient capital.

After leaving the core area of the Bell Tower, planning a clear route to explore the old city is quite challenging. After all, the orderly urban layout of Chang'an since the Han and Tang dynasties has profoundly influenced the city today, making a stroll through Xi'an like a game of Go, full of endless possibilities.

Generally speaking, if you want to trace Xi'an's historical footprints post-Tang Dynasty, you can start from Beiyuanmen, the site of the Shaanxi Governor's Office during the Qing Dynasty, and proceed to the Forest of Stone Steles Museum—Shuyuanmen—Guanzhong Academy—Xiangzi Temple. Finally, take a walk along the city wall, ending at Guangren Temple, to experience the profound heritage and daily life of this northwestern hub.

The streetscape of Shuyuanmen and a barber stall at the foot of the city wall.

Left photo by Zhang Enshuo; Right photo by Yi Jia

The current site of the Xi'an Forest of Stone Steles Museum was established during the Northern Song Dynasty, serving as a historical bridge linking the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. Rubbings of calligraphy by Wang Xizhi, Li Shimin, Li Longji, Yan Zhenqing, Liu Gongquan, and other "bullet-screen legends" are preserved here, making it the highest-profile "calligraphy gathering" in Chinese history.

Summer is the perfect time to visit the Forest of Steles. Walking through it feels like stepping into a natural air-conditioned space, cool and serene. You might even have the chance to join the stele-rubbing artisans, holding fragrant ink and gently tracing the marks of a thousand-year-old capital.

Statues in front of the Forest of Stone Steles Museum and a close-up of the steles.

Top photo by Zhang Yongfeng; Bottom photo by Zhang Xiaochuan

When winter snow arrives, all of Xi'an flocks to Guangren Temple. With its unique red walls and golden roofs, the temple becomes especially magnificent during the recent Lantern Festival, when countless lights gather here.

But it’s far more than just the top photo spot for tourists today. As the only Gelug Tibetan Buddhist temple in Xi'an and even all of Shaanxi, its distinctive layout—higher in the front and lower in the back—makes it unique. This was Princess Wencheng’s worship site in Chang'an, and it houses countless precious artifacts, making it well worth a slow, immersive visit.

Of course, the most interesting part of walking along the city wall is the people of Xi'an. Perhaps a chatty elder will mysteriously tell you that the city wall’s three square sides and one rounded corner (in the southwest) commemorate Zhuge Liang, who invented steamed buns for the "Bun Capital" (while the other three corners represent other bun styles). Or you might encounter a "youthful" version of Xu Wei or Zheng Jun singing and playing guitar...

At the foot of the wall, you’ll find elderly folks basking in the sun, square-dancing aunties and fitness uncles in the ring park, young people checking in at trendy cafes in Shuncheng Alley, tourists cycling atop the wall, and newlyweds taking wedding photos against Guangren Temple’s red walls... Together, they harmoniously embody the countless possibilities of life in Xi'an.

Left photo by Zhang Yongfeng; Right photo by Yi Jia

Only a citywalk can bring a proper beginning and end.

When visiting Xi'an for food, tourists often head first to Sajinqiao, Muslim Street, or Yongxingfang... These places are indeed bustling with crowds and endless delicacies, offering a "taste of Chang'an in a day." But you’ll also encounter so-called "time-honored" shops named after surnames, Xinjiang-style red willow skewers, and soul-crushing machine-torn lamb paomo—far from the true essence of Xi'an cuisine.

The more authentic flavors of Xi'an must be sought in its alleys and lanes. And the city’s morning markets are the perfect first stop to feel the pulse of this ancient capital.

Xiaonanmen (Wumu Gate) morning market.

These morning markets are either packed under city gates, like Xiaonanmen’s, offering newcomers a dose of "human vibes," or like Xicang Market, where flowers, birds, fish, insects, antiques, and secondhand goods create a Tang Dynasty West Market vibe. Others, like Hongzhuan South Road’s market, hide among skyscrapers like a hidden martial arts world... Each has its own charm, serving as spiritual nodes connecting Xi'an’s urban life.

The goods at these markets may be endless, but the unmissable highlight is the energizing breakfast—while roujiamo and yangrou paomo are world-famous, caijiamo (vegetable-stuffed buns) and meatball hulatang (pepper soup) are the true local staples.

Xi'an’s yangrou paomo comes in many styles.

Compared to the meat-filled version, the vegetable-stuffed mo showcases the full flavor universe of Xi'an. A fiery layer of chili paste (or chili oil) forms the base, topped with fried tofu, dried tofu, and eggs, followed by crisp shredded vegetables, and finally garnished with crunchy rice crusts or fried dough twists. Layer by layer, the fillings bulge the mo until it nearly splits open at 180 degrees. A bowl of meatball hulatang, distinct from its Henan counterpart, is elevated by the aroma of chili oil that carries for miles. Paired with carb-loaded delights like tuo tuo mo, roujiamo, or beef pancakes, it embodies the bold spirit of Northwest flavors.

The mo shop owner dances at Mijiaqiao in the early morning.

Among these dishes, nothing represents the leisure of Xi'an (Xi'an) better than a bowl of hulutou. Shaped like a gourd, the chewy pork intestines, paired with chili sauce and pickled garlic, are a Xi'an staple enjoyed any time of day. Often, you'll see longtime locals sitting in street-side stalls, savoring hulutou泡馍 (bread soaked in broth), a plate of bangbang肉 (smoked pork), and a sip of Xiaoxifeng liquor, as if transcending the mundane, leisurely passing half a day in bliss.

A day of citywalking inevitably ends at the night markets. Sweet zengao, soft persimmon cakes, tender crispy pork, and fragrant boiled beef tripe—but the star remains Xi'an's pride: generous skewers of grilled meat.

Map/Liu Yunshuo; Design/Dongzi

Beyond the carnival of carbs and meat, Xi'an's night markets offer a panorama of Shaanxi and Northwest cuisine. From Yan'an's zhanzhan (skewered snacks) in northern Shaanxi to Baoji's chili oil hotpot in the west, and Hanzhong's hot rice noodles in the south, Xi'an's culinary scene is a melting pot of competing flavors.

Noodles in one hand, meat in the other—after feasting on Tang Dynasty grandeur, slurp a fire-crystal persimmon through a straw or indulge in Xi'an's one-of-a-kind chili oil ice cream. Listen to the lingering chime of bells and drums in the old city, gaze at the dazzling lights of the Tang Paradise, watch tourists queue in endless lines, and hear the youth under the city walls play out Xi'an's nocturnal passion.

The radiant Chang'an of history now illuminates the splendor of present-day Xi'an.

Image Editor | Yiran