How Did This Unassuming Economic Powerhouse County in Jiangsu Change the Course of Chinese History?

Unsurprisingly, in the 2023 "Top 100 Counties" ranking (from the "2023 China County Economy Top 100 Research"), Jiangsu Province claimed 6 of the top 10 spots, sweeping the first four positions.

Changshu, ranked fourth, is located on the low-lying plains around Lake Tai, administered by Suzhou and situated northeast of Wuxi and Suzhou.

After millennia, Changshu still retains its remarkable charm.

In the star-studded Jiangnan region crisscrossed by waterways, Changshu is a slightly unconventional small Jiangnan city. Unlike the well-known water towns, its most captivating allure lies in its seamless integration of mountain and water landscapes.

In the illustrious Jiangnan region, Yu Mountain towering northwest of the ancient city marked an early cultural high point in history, and Changshu's development over the next two millennia revolved around it.

Yu Mountain not only defines Changshu's unique cultural framework but, from a broader perspective, its influence has transcended labels like "Jiangnan" and "Top 100 County." It has reshaped the cultural character of Jiangnan and even influenced the structure and landscape of Chinese culture.

Dubbed the "Little Great Wall of Jiangnan."

Yu Mountain is virtually the source of all Changshu's natural beauty.

Changshu nestles closely at the foot of Yu Mountain, with the mountain's end even directly enclosed within the city walls. Many of the city's canals originate from the mountain. Yu Mountain is about 6 km long and 2 km wide, with a peak elevation of 263 meters—a small ridge by any measure. Yet, in the endless watery plains of Jiangnan, even a modest hill can become the backbone of the land, standing as the most prominent landmark for miles around.

Shang Lake mirrors Yu Mountain in the distance, north and south.

Placing Changshu within the layout of a mountain-and-water garden.

Mountains as landmarks and their cultural-psychological influence on city siting is a fascinating topic. Changshu's geography seems to perfectly align with the Chinese ideal of habitation—backed by Yu Mountain to the northwest, facing the plains to the southeast, nestled between Yu Mountain and Shang Lake, with waterways from the mountain spreading through the city, creating a network of canals and dense alleyways.

From the perspective of traditional feng shui models, Changshu's spatial layout is exemplary. The mountain provides a sense of security, while the water brings vitality—a mountain at the back ensures stable water and resources, along with some military defense; facing water, the lake's bounty enriches residents' diets, and the dense network of rivers and lakes facilitates boat travel, fostering a thriving economy.

The Jiangnan town layout of "parallel land and water routes, streets adjacent to rivers."

Still fully preserved in Nantantanshang.

On another note, temples in the mountains, pavilions by the water, and pagodas in the city—these quintessential aesthetic elements of ancient Chinese garden design are scattered at key points inside and outside the city walls, making Changshu feel like a vast natural garden. Living in this corner of the Jiangnan plains is filled with comfort and beauty. Choosing this site for the city was a masterstroke.

Long before the rise of many famous Jiangnan cities, small Changshu was already closely tied to the region's early development.

King Tai of Zhou, Gugong Danfu, had three sons: Taibo, Zhongyong, and Jili. Jili had a son named Ji Chang, whose birth was said to be accompanied by auspicious signs. To ensure Jili and Ji Chang's smooth succession, Taibo and Zhongyong voluntarily left Zhouyuan for what is now Jiangnan, "fleeing to the barbarian lands of Jing, tattooing and cutting their hair to yield to Jili."

Taibo and Zhongyong thus became pioneers in developing the Jiangnan region. The state of Gouwu they established later evolved into the Wu Kingdom of the Spring and Autumn period. After Zhongyong's death, he was buried on a small hill in present-day Changshu. As Zhongyong was posthumously honored as Yu Zhong, his burial site became known as "Yu Mountain."

The plaque on Fucheng Gate, the western gate of Yu Mountain, bears the inscription "Commanding Mountains and Seas."

Elaborating on the layout and grandeur of this ancient city

Its cultural significance as a renowned mountain in Jiangnan was further reinforced during the Spring and Autumn period when Yan Yan, born in present-day Changshu, traveled north to study, becoming the only southern disciple among Confucius' seventy-two followers—this "Southern Sage" advocated education through music and enlightenment, spreading Confucian teachings to the southeast. After his death, he was buried on Yushan Mountain, elevating this modest peak of just over 200 meters into a pivotal symbol in Jiangnan culture. Scholars exploring the cultural history of Jiangnan cannot overlook this solitary summit standing on the Yangtze River's alluvial plain.

Today, ascending the eastern foothills of Yushan from Beimen Street, the tombs of Yan Yan and Zhong Yong lie side by side. The walk between these two commemorative sites takes only minutes, yet this short distance encapsulates the humanistic foundation and social bedrock of Changshu's early development. As local scholar Li Ye summarizes, Zhong Yong represented the advanced governance and agricultural techniques of the Central Plains, while the native Yan Yan facilitated the southward transmission of Confucian culture. Together, they reshaped the cultural identity of Jiangnan and even profoundly influenced the broader landscape of Chinese culture.

Visitors climb Yushan along the path to Yan Yan's tomb.

From the cultural enlightenment driven by early figures like Zhong Yong and Yan Yan to subsequent agricultural and urban advancements, the lifestyle and values of "farming and scholarship as family traditions" have remained Changshu's defining essence. Even amid today's economic boom, the city retains an air of tranquility and understated charm.

The character "Yu" became Changshu's nickname, not only naming the cultural landmark Yushan but also lending its name to later schools of thought and art.

Since the Yuan and Ming dynasties, the reinterpretation of landscape imagery has been shaped by local literati. Poetry, painting, seal engraving, and qin schools—all bearing the name "Yushan"—drew nourishment from Jiangnan's cultural milieu. Classical Chinese literature and art celebrated Yushan across nearly every medium. Huang Gongwang, the foremost of the "Four Masters of the Yuan," emerged from Yushan's foothills, his late-blooming genius deeply influencing local traditions. In masterpieces like "Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains," Changshu natives can still discern the misty hues of their beloved mountain.

"Yushan Maple Forest" by Qing dynasty painter Wang Hui

Exemplifying the characteristics of the "Yushan School of Painting"

Endless mountain delicacies, inexhaustible freshness

Changshu locals have always taken pride in their bounty. The gentle hills of Wu, though petite compared to northern peaks, are equally rich in resources, offering shelter and sustenance. Yushan is especially generous—its slopes seem to spill forth wild mushrooms, lingzhi, chestnuts, tea leaves, bayberries, and more, season after season, cascading into the homes of Changshu's people.

Yushan's embrace provides Changshu with a sense of security.

In Jiangnan's watery, low-lying plains where even small hills are rare, mountain delicacies are treasures. From this perspective, Changshu's pine mushroom oil noodles are a culinary marvel: savoring fresh wild mushrooms in a mountain temple is a rare luxury even in this land of fish and rice.

"Xun" refers to mushrooms, with Yushan yielding dozens of varieties—only about a third are edible and non-toxic, all wild-grown with little cultivation, making them precious. Pine mushrooms are the rarest, growing exclusively near pines like reclusive sages. Locals cherish them for gourmet dishes, most famously xun oil noodles. The noodles and broth resemble typical Su-style fare but emphasize savory umami over Jiangnan's usual sweetness, likely to highlight the mushrooms' aroma.

Xun oil noodles topped with mushroom oil are exceptionally delicious

Making xun oil involves coaxing out the mushrooms' essence with hot oil—a perfect synergy. After brining pine mushrooms, peeling their thin skin, and slicing, pure vegetable oil is heated to smoking point. Aromatics like cinnamon and star anise are fried first, then the mushrooms are simmered to perfection.

Served piping hot, a generous ladle of fragrant, tender mushrooms glistening with oil crowns the noodles, garnished with scallions and cilantro. The layers of flavor, harmonious colors, and intoxicating aroma leave one unsure what to praise first.

Changshu noodle shops offer a dazzling array of toppings

Bustling streets hold pockets of pine-scented serenity; secluded mountains welcome food pilgrims. Thus, with a full belly and a cup of Yushan green tea, one can watch the world go by at dawn—the temple and the mundane alike are havens.

Another "treasure of the mountain" is Baoyan bayberries. A local saying goes: "After planting rice, we eat bayberries." Come June, Changshu residents eagerly await Baoyan's harvest. These berries have long been a regional star, with the Qing-era "Changshu County Annals" noting: "In mid-May, Baoyan bayberries peak, drawing crowds." The Baoyan Ecological Park still preserves over a century-old bayberry trees.

The chestnuts produced in the southeastern corner of Yushan Mountain are also unforgettable. These chestnuts naturally carry the fragrance of osmanthus. Whether stir-fried in a pan or simply peeled raw, they occasionally release a subtle aroma, hence the name "osmanthus chestnuts." Around the Mid-Autumn Festival, when chestnuts come into season, a plate of mooncakes and a dish of chestnuts under the full moon not only mirror the shape of the moon but also evoke the osmanthus tree in lunar legends, filling Changshu locals with poetic inspiration. Yushan remains unchanged yet ever-changing. A stroll around the mountain, taking in the abundance of local delicacies, makes one's heart leap with a lively love for life.

By the Qinchuan River, order a bowl of wontons and a steamer of soup dumplings. Glancing up, the Fang Pagoda built during the Southern Song Dynasty still outlines the skyline, while the embrace of Yushan Mountain remains vivid. Despite enduring a thousand years of trials, the city of Changshu has avoided the cliché of "identical cities" and retained its distinctive character.

Text | Xu Junda, Lou Xue, Yu Jia

This article is compiled from "Changshu: A Typical Water Town and an Atypical Jiangnan," "Landscape of an Ancient City: The Interpretation of an Alternative Jiangnan," and "From Tea Slopes to Chestnut Slopes: A Fresh Taste Map of Yushan," originally written by Xu Junda, Lou Xue, and Yu Jia. It has been re-edited, and the title was added by the editor.

Originally published in the mook "Fengwu China Zhi: Changshu"