Luoyang: A Millennium Metropolis' Fall from Global Superpower to Third-Tier City - Where Peony Blooms Meet Rock-Carved Wonders, a Deliciously Unfair Paradise for Explorers

When it comes to ancient capitals, Henan is an unavoidable province, as no other province can claim four of the eight great ancient capitals.

Recently, another ancient capital here has regained top popularity: Liu Yifei's line in "Dream of Splendor"—"Tokyo is truly dazzling with wealth"—has drawn millions of fans to relive the charm of the Song Dynasty; while "Granny Wang" has attracted countless netizens to "matchmake"!

That's right, you and I both know—the city we're introducing today is—

© Xiaohongshu: Please Eat the Little Pomegranate!

Speaking of Kaifeng, every Chinese is familiar with it, most notably through "There's a Judge Bao in Kaifeng." Yet, it remains in the awkward position of "known but not well-known," and when it comes to travel, it’s often tinged with a gray hue of "decline."

From unparalleled prosperity to boundless decline,

It is China's most disheartened city!

© Xiaohongshu: The Sand Sculpture of the New Era

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An American writer once penned an article titled "From Kaifeng to New York—Glory Is as Ephemeral as Smoke and Clouds," noting that a thousand years ago, the center of the world was Kaifeng, with a population exceeding a million and GDP accounting for a third of the world's, much like New York today.

Yet, the rise and fall are fickle, and among all ancient capitals, Kaifeng is now the most fallen:

Without Beijing's grandeur, without Hangzhou's charm,

Without Nanjing's prosperity, without a developed economy,

Without a crucial strategic position…

How could such a contrast not leave one deeply unsettled?

© Xiaohongshu: The Sand Sculpture of the New Era

After all, it boasts over 4,100 years of city and capital history, renowned as the ancient capital of eight dynasties; it is the world's only capital whose central axis has never shifted and was the most praised city in ancient China:

"Jade trees and radiant clouds adorn the Five-Phoenix Tower; Yimen has been the land of emperors since ancient times."

"Having seen the great sea, other waters seem unworthy; beyond Liang Garden, all else is but villages."

"All corners of the world converge, and all nations connect."

After all, it was once the capital of the Song Dynasty, the largest and most prosperous metropolis in the world during the 11th century.

At this time, the curfew was lifted, the boundaries separating residential areas and markets were broken, ships from the south and horses from the north gathered, businesses flourished everywhere, people came and went from all directions, and the sounds of vendors filled the day and night. Even Jewish merchants settled here.

Food delivery and chain stores were already common back then, with the population peaking at over 1.5 million—considering London had only 15,000 people at the time!

After all, this was the most culturally and historically abundant period in China, with remarkable achievements in every field.

Cheng Hao, Cheng Yi, Zhu Xi, Ouyang Xiu, Su Shi,

Sima Guang, and Shen Kuo, among other outstanding figures, left an eternal legacy.

The invention and application of movable-type printing, the compass, and gunpowder

made outstanding contributions to humanity.

"The culture of the Chinese nation, evolving over thousands of years,

Kaifeng alone has left a brilliant and indelible mark in Chinese cultural history.

It was the birthplace of the 'Along the River During the Qingming Festival' painting,

as well as the famous hometown of chrysanthemums, calligraphy and painting,

opera, woodblock New Year prints, and the Pan Drum art.

The largest local opera in China, Yu Opera, also originated here,

along with the renowned Bian embroidery and Northern Song official porcelain.

Unfortunately, the suspended Yellow River nourished it, brought it prosperity, but also destroyed it.

Located at the most fragile section of the Yellow River's 'bean curd waist,' the Kaifeng stretch of the river breached 338 times in recorded history, submerging the city seven times, creating the world wonder of 'cities stacked upon cities.'

Kaifeng, city upon city—how many lie buried beneath?

The complete history of Kaifeng as a capital is buried underground:

3 meters down, Qing Dynasty Kaifeng; 5 meters, Ming Kaifeng;

6 meters, Jin Dynasty Bianjing; 8 meters, Song Dynasty Bianliang.

The 10-meter-high walls of Tang's Bianzhou City, the 12-meter-high walls of Wei's Daliang City...

Yes, buried under the sands of time, bypassed by railways, and stripped of its status as a transportation hub and provincial capital, this ancient city of Kaifeng can only helplessly watch itself stagnate, gradually fading into obscurity even within Henan Province.

Perhaps only Henan University, which has also experienced the fall from "top-tier" to ordinary, can truly empathize and share its sorrow.

© Xiaohongshu: Tang Guoqing (Mobile Photography Edition)

In the early Republic of China era, it rivaled Tsinghua College and Nanyang Public School.

Today, only one of its disciplines is listed in the "Double First-Class" initiative.

Reading Kaifeng's history always brings to mind the preface of *The Eastern Capital: A Dream of Splendor*: "Looking back in melancholy, is it not like awakening from a dream of Huaxu?"

For the people of Kaifeng, the light boat has passed countless mountains—they no longer need to shoulder the weight of historical glory. Instead, they quietly live their lives, savoring food, sipping soup, and figuring out how to make their days uniquely wonderful. And that’s not a bad thing.

The fact that Kaifeng has faded from the world's gaze is hard to change.

But this place is still worth a visit.

Nowadays, travel always emphasizes "value for money," and a trip to Kaifeng is all about that "worth-it" feeling.

A millennium ago, it was a top-tier city; now, it’s an ordinary small town with equally modest prices. The Wansui Mountain Scenic Area offers hundreds of performances—opera, martial arts, stagecraft—all for just 80 yuan, a real bargain.

△ The winter performance of "Storming Feiyunpu" sends shivers down your spine. © Xiaohongshu @Wansui Mountain Martial Arts City

Although Kaifeng has no airport, the high-speed train from Zhengzhou takes only 20 minutes, with frequent departures, making travel very convenient.

Moreover, the city is steeped in Song Dynasty charm and half-filled with water. Though many structures are replicas, the pavilions, towers, arched bridges, and waterside terraces, while lacking the softness of Jiangnan, exude a unique heroic spirit.

Spend three or four days exploring Kaifeng,

and it surely won’t disappoint you.

In this ancient capital, meticulously restored to its former glory,

indulge in a dream of Eastern Capital’s opulent past!

Unlike other "cultural pilgrimages," traveling to Kaifeng doesn’t strain the brain—it’s all about immersion.

Here, you can spend an entire day at the Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden, immersing yourself as a Song Dynasty resident.

Upon entering, you can change into free Song-style Hanfu, holding a soup dumpling in one hand and almond tea in the other, strolling through the replica Song-era architecture, with 600 NPCs acting alongside you—making it hard to tell past from present.

The garden features spectacular scene performances and folk shows all day, while the paid evening show "The Eastern Capital of the Great Song Dynasty" is even more breathtaking, recreating numerous poetic works in just 70 minutes.

Here, you can fulfill your martial arts dreams at the Great Song Wuxia City on Longevity Mountain.

Dubbed "the Disneyland more suited for Chinese kids," this is where the matchmaking show "Auntie Wang’s Matchmaking" takes place.

With an 80-yuan ticket, you get access to hundreds of performances—an endless lineup—and premium experiences worth hundreds more:

The awe-inspiring iron-flower fireworks,

rivaling Disney’s own pyrotechnics.

The cannon fire and stray bullets in "Three Attacks on Zhu Village,"

make you feel like you’re witnessing history firsthand, thrilling and intense.

Here, you can also visit the China Han Garden Stele Forest to compose poetry and practice calligraphy—a more serene and introspective contrast to the previous two attractions.

The garden boasts pavilions, towers, and lakeside scenery, alongside 4,000 steles engraved with calligraphy masterpieces, systematically showcasing the evolution of Chinese calligraphy and contemporary art.

Some say that while such immersive experiences are fun, they lack tangible historical traces—yet Kaifeng still preserves many ancient relics and replica structures that let you wander through its nostalgic charm.

In Kaifeng, the historic Iron Pagoda, Fan Pagoda, and city walls are must-sees.

Moreover, stepping into Kaifeng feels like entering the Song Dynasty’s heyday: the Kaifeng Prefecture where Bao Zheng once worked, the Lord Bao Temple displaying his historical records, the Tianbo Yang Residence commemorating the Yang Family Generals, and the Daxiangguo Temple where Zhan Zhao became a monk...

© Xiaohongshu: The Sand Sculpture of the New Era

Here, you’ll also find the Dragon Pavilion Park, site of six dynasties’ imperial palaces; the Yuwangtai Park honoring Shi Kuang; and Zhuxian Town, birthplace of woodblock New Year paintings—Kaifeng’s bricks and tiles may be replicas, but they never lack historical depth or storytelling.

Beyond the attractions, a leisurely citywalk is the best way to immerse yourself in local Kaifeng life.

Twin Dragon Alley birthed two emperors, Bookstore Street lines up time-honored shops, and New Song Road is where locals walk dogs, tease birds, and play with crickets—pure relaxation.

© Xiaohongshu: The Sand Sculpture of the New Era

Starting from the Liu Shaoqi Memorial Hall on Jiefang Road in Kaifeng, across the street is the former residence of Liu Qingxia. Heading north, you'll encounter the Confucian Temple, followed by the Li Niangniang Temple and the former site of the Henan Provincial Museum. Not far away lies the former residence of Zhang Dengyun...

It’s hard not to marvel—this is Kaifeng, where historic homes and ancient buildings appear at every turn!

© Xiaohongshu: Sandiao of the New Era

To this underrated treasure trove of Henan cuisine,

where silent indulgence yields endless delights!

Though sharing the same abbreviation, "Kaifeng cuisine" is often overshadowed by "KFC." In truth, when it comes to food, Kaifeng has been a millennium ahead of the nation:

Yu cuisine is China’s first culinary tradition;

the city also boasts countless historical firsts:

the first city with food delivery, the first to adopt three meals a day,

the first with night markets, the first to eat roast duck,

even the first to enjoy shaved ice!

So when in Kaifeng, just eat—

from dawn to dusk, from street to alley.

Kaifeng is a hidden lamb paradise, where everyone feasts like royalty.

A local friend says breakfast requires no planning—lamb or beef soup shops are everywhere. Sit down anywhere, and it’s a feast.

© Xiaohongshu: Big Face Isn’t My Fault

A bowl of soup with a flatbread is the classic Kaifeng breakfast.

Vegetarian spicy soup, "Sanhen Soup," lamb soup, donkey meat soup, "double-intestine" lamb soup, "Four-Ingredient Dish"... each soup is unmatched, and the breads are no less varied—steamed buns, sweet cakes, or hu bread stuffed with lamb, pepper, or pastry.

Four-Ingredient Dish © Xiaohongshu: Big Face Isn’t My Fault

Lamb bones brew the broth, while the meat merges with carbs, unleashing irresistible energy.

Kaifeng offers a variety of lamb buns, including steamed lamb buns, pan-fried lamb buns, and the must-try soup-filled xiaolongbao.

It's safe to say no lamb in Kaifeng escapes being thoroughly consumed.

Roasted lamb leg, lamb chops, and lamb skewers dominate Kaifeng's barbecue scene. Stewed whole lamb is a specialty of Zhuxian Town, while braised lamb is as beloved as hotpot among locals.

Kaifeng has also brought many imperial dishes to the public, such as "Four Treasures in One," carp with fried noodles, and Bianjing roast duck—all best enjoyed here.

Kaifeng is also a carb-loaded city built on flour-based snacks, offering endless street food options.

Lamb flatbread is a夜市 staple, stir-fried mung bean jelly is a must-have midnight snack, chicken leg meat is a legendary dish at Laohe University's west gate, and almond tea has been a local favorite for centuries.

Other treats include double-sesame cakes, five-nut pastries, honey-glazed dough twists, wheel cakes, millet rice cakes, potstickers, baked flatbreads, lamb noodle soup, bean porridge, mung bean paste, peanut cakes, egg rings, thick fried dough sticks, sweet potato mash, "fried eight pieces," rice cakes, and candied red pear...

If you tried listing all of Kaifeng's snacks in one breath, most people would run out of lung capacity.

© Xiaohongshu: Big Face Isn’t My Fault

To sample all these snacks at once, the night markets have you covered.

Kaifeng boasts nearly 20 night markets. While Drum Tower and Xisi Square are famous and comprehensive, Laohe University's west gate and eastern suburbs' markets are locals' true favorites.

Deciding where to eat can be a dilemma.

Maybe you don’t always need to think of Zhengzhou or Luoyang.

Kaifeng is also a travel destination worth exploring.

Come savor the flavors of the past in this slow-paced city.

1. Transportation: Fly to Zhengzhou first, then take an intercity train.

Staying near Drum Tower District, especially by Qingming Riverside Park, is most convenient but pricier. Hotels near Henan University or in Kaifeng’s new district are more budget-friendly.

Alternatively, bathhouses offer 12-hour stays with showers for just 20 yuan per person.

Day 1: Kaifeng Museum - Lord Bao’s Temple - Kaifeng Prefecture - Daxiangguo Temple - Xisi Square Night Market - Drum Tower Night Market

Day 2: Qingming Riverside Park / Wansui Mountain Great Song Martial Arts City

Day 3: Dragon Pavilion Park - Tianbo Yang's Mansion - Imperial Street of Song Capital - Old Heda West Gate Night Market / Eastern Suburb Night Market

4. Best travel season: September to October; especially in mid-to-late October, when Kaifeng's chrysanthemums are in full bloom, the weather is mild, and rainfall is moderate.