Why Does Chaozhou in Guangdong Have a "Fujian" Flavor?
▲ Guangji Bridge. Photo by Li Yishuang
Even if you haven't been to Chaoshan, you've probably tried Chaoshan beef hotpot, right?
The Phoenix Mountains in northern Chaoshan separate Meizhou, forming a unique cultural region—Chaoshan—which includes Chaozhou, Shantou, Jieyang, and other areas. They share geographical, cultural, folk, and linguistic similarities, often appearing collectively as "Chaoshan," just like the name "Jieyang Chaoshan Airport."
▲ A bird's-eye view of the ancient city of Chaozhou, with Bijia Mountain in the background. Photo by Liu Yanhui
However, the term "Chaoshan" actually originated in modern Chinese history. It first appeared in the archives of the Chaozhou Customs in 1883 during the Qing Dynasty. In 1949, the newly established People's Republic of China set up the "Chaoshan Special Administrative Region," making "Chaoshan" an official administrative name for the first time. Another name, used as early as 591 AD by Emperor Wen of the Sui Dynasty to describe the Chaoshan region, means "the land of tides, where the tides ebb and flow." This name has been used for over 1,600 years and is still in use today—
At the border of Guangdong and Fujian, thriving by the sea.
"The end of the province and the corner of the country" is a self-deprecating term used by the people of Chaozhou, aptly describing its geographical location: Chaozhou is situated on the southern coast of mainland China, at the eastern tip of Guangdong Province, where the East China Sea and the South China Sea meet, and it borders Fujian Province.
The Phoenix Mountains in the north are like a mother to Chaozhou. They not only form the geographical boundary of the Chaoshan cultural region but are also an important birthplace of Chinese oolong tea. The elegant name "Fengcheng" (Phoenix City) for Chaozhou also comes from these mountains.
▲ Phoenix Mountains. Photo by Asonzhou, from Tuchong Creative
The Huanggang River and the Han River, located to the east and west respectively, are the two major rivers in Chaozhou, flowing into the sea. Overall, mountainous areas account for 65% of Chaozhou's territory, with relatively little arable land. The coastal living environment has fostered a spirit of adventure and entrepreneurship among the people of Chaozhou, shaping their commercial-oriented traits.
▲ Phoenix Tower standing by the Han River. Photo by Lu Wen
Historically, Chaozhou merchants, along with Shanxi and Anhui merchants, were known as the three major merchant groups in ancient China. Chaozhou people were highly active in maritime trade. According to the "2009 Global Teochew Business Economic White Paper," about half of the Chinese assets in Southeast Asian countries at the time belonged to Chaozhou people. Chaozhou has produced many wealthy Chinese businessmen, accounting for a quarter of the wealth on the global Chinese rich list. Among the over 50 million overseas Chinese, about 20% are of Chaozhou origin.
▲ The middle section of Guangji Bridge is connected by a pontoon bridge. Photo by Li Yishuang
While Chaozhou people are highly engaged in overseas business, the local ceramic industry is also outstanding. Chaozhou is not only the largest production base for artistic ceramics, daily-use ceramics, and sanitary ware in China but also the largest ceramic production base in the world. There are over 10,000 ceramic manufacturers in Chaozhou, providing livelihoods for many locals.
▲ Innovative ceramic products being made in a Chaozhou ceramic factory. Photo by Zhao Xiaofei
"Wherever there are tides, there are Chaozhou people." Chaozhou people have not only traveled to all corners of the world but have also taken their businesses global, spreading Chinese culture worldwide. Various delicacies have become the "taste of home" for local Chinese communities, and Taoist temples adorned with Chaozhou wood carvings have become windows into Chinese culture. The origin of these foods, beliefs, and arts lies in Chaozhou.
On earth, they worship Han Yu; in heaven, they "worship the deities."
A saying in Guangdong goes, "Coming to Guangdong without visiting Chaozhou is a wasted trip." However, over 1,000 years ago, Chaozhou was not as popular as it is today. It was one of the destinations where officials were exiled after offending the emperor.
▲ Evening on Taiping Road, where the archway group looks beautiful under the lights. Photo by Hong Sam
In 819 AD, Han Yu submitted a sharp memorial titled "Admonition Against the Bone of Buddha" to Emperor Xianzong of the Tang Dynasty. In a fit of anger, the emperor exiled Han Yu to Chaozhou. The journey to Chaozhou was fraught with difficulties, and along the way, he wrote the timeless poem "On Being Demoted and Passing the Blue Pass: To My Grandnephew Xiang."
Han Yu stayed in Chaozhou for only eight months, but during this time, he initiated water conservancy projects, cared for agricultural affairs, freed slaves, and donated to education, bringing a strong Confucian ethos to Chaozhou.
▲ Stele corridor of the Hanwengong Temple. Photo/See Book
To express their gratitude to Han Yu, the people of Chaozhou renamed Bijia Mountain as "Han Mountain" and built the Hanwengong Temple on its slopes; they renamed the "Wicked Stream" as "Han River," and the Guangji Bridge over the river gained another name—Xiangzi Bridge (Han Yu's grandnephew was named Han Xiang); a road in the city was named Changli Road (Han Yu was also known as Changli), and they also constructed a Jinghan Pavilion. No wonder Zhao Puchu said of Han Yu, "Not in vain did he travel eight thousand miles to the south in exile, winning over the rivers and mountains to bear his name."
▲ Top: Yanghan Pavilion on Guangji Bridge; Bottom: Iron oxen on Guangji Bridge. Photo/Chen Yan
Han Yu has always been regarded by the people of Chaozhou as a cultural mentor, becoming one of the city's primary cultural anchors. The power of this literary influence is evident in the Taiping Road Archway Complex, a historical testament to Chaozhou's reputation as a "Coastal Zou-Lu" (a reference to the homelands of Confucius and Mencius), its reverence for culture and learning, and its gathering of talents.
▲ Taiping Road Archway Complex. Photo/Jiang Zhiyi
Another important aspect of Chaozhou culture is related to several historical "southward migrations" in Chinese history. Many of Chaozhou's early immigrants first stayed in Fujian for a long time before moving to Chaozhou. They brought not only Central Plains culture but also Fujian culture.
The Chaozhou dialect, also known as Teochew, is a branch of the Min language. Hakka is also spoken by a significant number of people in Chaozhou, and there are Hakka tulou (earthen buildings): Fujian is famous for its "Four Dishes and One Soup," but Chaozhou's Daoyun Lou in Raoping is equally impressive—it is currently the largest single tulou discovered in China.
▲ Daoyun Lou in Raoping, Chaozhou. Photo/See Book
The ancient Kaiyuan Temple in Chaozhou shares similarities with temples in Quanzhou, Fujian, in terms of architectural decoration, pagodas, and statue styles. Like the people of Fujian, who worship various deities, the people of Chaozhou take "worshiping laoye" (venerated figures) very seriously. Historical heroes, ancestors of various clans, and mythological figures can all be "laoye." The first and fifteenth days of the lunar month are for worshiping the Earth God, and "worshiping laoye" during the Lunar New Year is a top priority, as it关系到 the family's fortune for the year.
▲ Traditional and beautiful decorations of Kaiyuan Temple. Photo/Liu Yanhui
"Ga gi nang, pasi bho sio gang!" is a local saying meaning, "For our own people, even death doesn't matter!" The enthusiasm of Chaozhou people for worship, besides preserving traditional culture, largely stems from this family ethos. And whether it's the preservation of traditions or family values, aren't these the very soil that nurtures Chaozhou cuisine?
Cantonese flavor? Min flavor? It's Teochew flavor!
There's a saying in Guangdong: "Eat in Guangzhou, but taste in Chaozhou." Although another version says "taste in Shunde," Chaozhou undoubtedly holds its own place in Guangdong's competitive culinary world.
Located at the border of Guangdong and Fujian, many of Chaozhou's dietary habits combine characteristics of both regions. For example, satay sauce originated in the diets of Teochew Chinese in Malay-speaking regions and later became popular in Teochew, Fujian, and other areas. If we delve deeper, there are slight differences between the two: Teochew satay sauce is more aromatic than Southern Fujian satay sauce.
Everyday snacks here include satay noodles, satay rice rolls, and satay dumplings. Chaozhou's satay noodles are quite different from those in Xiamen and other places. First, they use Chaozhou flat noodles; second, after dry tossing, they are topped with a mix of peanut sauce and satay sauce. The combination, when mixed dry, is savory, fresh, and spicy. It's best paired with a bowl of meatball soup with plump, tender meatballs—one bite of noodles, one sip of soup, pure bliss!
▲ Chaozhou-style satay noodles. Photo/luke
Chaozhou's rice noodle rolls (cheung fun) also have their own characteristics, different from those in Guangzhou. Guangzhou-style rice noodle rolls are usually topped with soy sauce, while Chaozhou's version includes braised broth, satay sauce, and peanut sauce. Not only are the sauces different, but the fillings also vary. Guangzhou's rice noodle rolls have straightforward fillings—beef is beef, char siu is char siu—while Chaozhou's rice noodle rolls are much more diverse, with beef, eggs, oysters, mushrooms, bean sprouts... you name it. A true delight for rice noodle roll lovers!
▲ The fillings of Chaozhou rice noodle rolls are very rich. Top photo by Xu Dashi; bottom photo by Hui Life, image from Tuchong Creative.
For Chaozhou people, almost every day involves satay sauce. The nationally famous Teochew beef hotpot is dipped in fresh and sweet satay sauce.
To fully unlock the potential of beef, the Teochew people divide it into over a dozen different cuts, each with an appropriate blanching time. The menu features a variety of options such as Diaolong, Diaolongban, Shiren, Shibing, Feipian, and tender meat, which might be confusing for first-time visitors.
▲ Teochew people divide beef into many parts for consumption. Photo/Li Yishuang
The Wu Hua Zhi, which is highly sensitive to heat, reaches its optimal eating time after being dipped three times in clear broth. The top-grade Bo Ren is even more delicate and requires only about 8 seconds in the pot before it is ready to eat.
▲ For beef hotpot, blanching time is an art. Photo/Liu Yanhui
"Hearing the midnight call of fish sashimi sales, I crave fish head stewed with sweet potatoes" – another way to enjoy freshness is the fish sashimi mentioned here. Known as Yu Kuai in ancient times, fish sashimi was quite common in ancient China, as reflected in the saying, "One never tires of fine food or meticulously prepared sashimi."
The fish sashimi here is quite different from Japanese sashimi. It emphasizes the tenderness of the meat, the thinness of the slicing, and the pairing with condiments. How extensive are the side dishes and dipping sauces? Side dishes include ring peppers, young ginger strips, onion strips, sour carambola slices, and more. Dipping sauces include chili rice vinegar, soy sauce with mustard, San Shen Jiang, and others – truly a rich variety.
▲ Fish sashimi emphasizes tender meat and thin slicing (consuming raw food carries risks and should be done with caution). Photo/Liu Yanhui
Teochew fish sashimi typically uses grass carp. The two boneless fillets from the back are selected, dried with a cloth, and hung in a ventilated area to air-dry. When served, the fish is sliced thinner and drier than Japanese sashimi, which is why Teochew fish sashimi is accompanied by a generous amount of oil to enhance its smooth texture. In addition to fish sashimi, Teochew people also enjoy shrimp sashimi, lobster sashimi, and more.
▲ Teochew fish sashimi is sliced extremely thin. Photo/Liu Yanhui
Another way to enjoy freshness is the king of the late-night snack scene – fish rice. Unlike fish sashimi, Teochew fish rice typically uses saltwater fish such as wide-eyed fish, flower fairy fish, and balang fish.
The selected saltwater fish must be fresh. They are soaked in light saltwater without gutting or scaling, then boiled in concentrated saltwater and naturally cooled. This method locks in the freshness of the fish to the greatest extent, similar to the Cantonese method of preparing white-cut chicken – the simplest cooking technique preserves the freshest flavor of the ingredient.
▲ There are many types of fish to choose from for Teochew fish rice. Top photo/Qi Jiu 608, Tu Chong Creative; Bottom photo/KXIE, Huitu Network
Fish rice can be eaten cold, hot, or pan-fried. The most delightful way is to pair it with a bowl of plain congee. The fish is firm and sweet, while the congee is rich with the aroma of grains. Eating a piece of fish with its skin and flesh, the simplicity of the congee allows the freshness of the fish to shine through perfectly.
▲ At late-night congee stalls, red meat rice, thin-shell rice, Er rice, and red crab rice are also very popular. Top photo/zhong18370622376; Bottom photo/xrs41, Huitu Network
Chen Xiaoqing once said that he couldn’t stand the fishy taste of fish rice when he first tried it, but he fell in love with it on his second try. In fact, fish rice isn’t limited to saltwater fish; it also includes seafood like shrimp, crab, and shellfish. At Teochew late-night congee stalls, red crab rice, red meat rice, Er rice, and thin-shell rice are also highly popular among locals.
When it comes to Teochew rice cakes (guo), there are no fewer than a hundred varieties. Whether for thanking deities, worshipping ancestors, weddings, funerals, or at small stalls, you can find guo everywhere.
▲ Teochew guo truly comes in many varieties. Photo/Visual China Group
People offer different types of guo during various solar terms. For example, "Puzi Guo" is made with朴籽叶 (puzi leaves) for the Qingming Festival, and "Zhi Guo" is made with gardenia for the Dragon Boat Festival ancestral worship... The fillings of these guo are made with fresh ingredients, and the guo are named after their main fillings, such as radish guo, chive guo, salty water guo, and sweet potato guo. Among the historically common varieties are鼠曲粿 (shu qu guo) and red peach guo, with鼠曲粿 also found in Fujian.
▲ The historically rich red peach guo. Photo/Visual China Group
Influenced by factors such as the "southward migration," guo is also commonly eaten in Fujian and other regions. One famous snack is nine-layer guo. Red and yellow pigments are added to rice浆 (jiang), layered in red-yellow-white order up to nine layers. Due to differences in pronunciation, the Hakka people pronounce "guo" as "ban" – their "lao shu ban" (mouse ban) is actually a type of "guo."
▲ Nine-layer rice cake. Photo/ Minnan Home Flavors
From lobster and abalone to beef hotpot, from raw fish to fish rice, even a simple bowl of satay noodles or a piece of salted rice cake—Chaozhou people have their own interpretation of flavors. And Chaozhou cuisine offers far more than these: licorice fruit, duck mother twist, sugar scallion pancake, oyster omelette, fermented tofu cake, fish skin dumpling, beef meatball, Xikou braised goose… You could eat for a month without repeating a dish and still not try everything.
▲ Plump and juicy braised goose. Photo/ Jianshu
Chaozhou people cannot go a day without tea!
Besides satay sauce, tea is an indispensable part of daily life for Chaozhou people. Qin Mu, a Chaozhou-born writer, once said, "Chaozhou Kung Fu tea can be regarded as a representative of Chinese tea ceremony." It is a symbol of "Chaozhou people's elegance and refined practices."
▲ Tea is an essential part of every day for Chaozhou people. Photo/ Liu Yanhui
In the local dialect, "工" is pronounced as "gāng," describing time. The term "工夫" (Kung Fu) refers to being meticulous and attentive, highlighting the importance Chaozhou people place on tea drinking. Saying "drinking tea is like drinking water" is perfectly natural in Chaozhou: after breakfast, brew a pot of tea to refresh; after lunch, have a pot to cut the grease; after dinner, boil water, brew tea, watch TV, or entertain guests.
▲ Chaozhou Kung Fu Tea Culture Museum. Photo/ Yang Yucheng, Image/ Tuchong Creative
Chaozhou people call tea leaves "tea rice," indicating that tea holds a position as vital as rice in their daily lives. To enjoy better local tea, they cultivate "Fenghuang Dancong" in the Fenghuang Mountains, which comes in various aromas like orchid, honey orchid, magnolia, evening primrose, pomelo flower, ginger flower, and even the oddly named "duck shit" fragrance.
▲ Chaozhou people attach great importance to tea drinking and are very particular about it. Image 1 & 2 Photo/ Visual China Group, Image 3 Photo/ Liu Yanhui
For Chaozhou people, tea is not just about quenching thirst—it also plays a crucial role in bonding and business discussions. They prefer small tea cups, about the size of half a ping pong ball, for drinking in one go without leaving any tea behind—no need for words, all the sentiment is in the tea!
In Chaozhou, tea can be enjoyed almost anywhere: teahouses, restaurants, shops, roadside stalls, parks, and scenic spots. Every household has a Kung Fu tea set and must drink several rounds daily. Some even keep a tea set in their private cars to enjoy tea on the go.
▲ Even with simple tea sets, outdoor tea drinking is never compromised. Photo/ Empty Room FREEROOM, Image/ Tuchong Creative
Chaozhou people channel their passion for life into drinking Kung Fu tea, pursuing the freshness of food, and exploring a hundred ways to enjoy rice cakes. One of the ten mythical creatures in the Chaozhou dialect, the "hardworking donkey," is a self-deprecating term for workers—meaning tough job, low pay, but enduring for life. No matter how hard life gets, Chaozhou people always make time to drink tea with friends, worship at temples, or enjoy a late-night meal with family at a congee stall. This is the "sense of ritual" in Chaozhou life!
▲ Times are changing, but Chaozhou still preserves many old traditions. Photo/ Jiang Zhiyi
The cuisine of the Chaoshan region is truly impressive.
Wondering where to find authentic Chaoshan flavors?
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