Why Does Shanxi's Second City Hold 5,000 Years of Chinese History?
If selecting the province with the richest historical and cultural relics in China, Shanxi is definitely a top contender. From the Ancient City of Pingyao to the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda, well-preserved and priceless ancient structures bear witness to the millennia of trials and tribulations in the land of Shanxi.
In southeastern Shanxi, there is a city that epitomizes both the perilous terrain and cultural beauty of the province. It is one of the birthplaces of Chinese civilization, a strategic stronghold and contested military site throughout dynastic history. This city is—
According to the latest statistics, Changzhi's GDP ranks second in Shanxi, only behind the provincial capital Taiyuan, making it truly the "Second City of Shanxi." There's a peculiar feeling when you're in Changzhi—time seems to move slowly here. Pedestrians on the streets maintain a leisurely pace, and the cityscape retains the charm of decades past. Shielded by the surrounding mountains, even the wind feels gentler. Occasional high-rises remind you that this is still a modern society.
But walk through Changzhi's "Arc de Triomphe," the Shangdang Gate, turn a corner, and you might suddenly find yourself facing an ancient structure with a thousand years of history—perhaps a City God Temple or a Liao Dynasty pagoda. In this city, a sense of sudden time travel is never far away.
The Lu'an Prefecture City God Temple has stood here for over 700 years.
Surrounded by high mountains, this is the center of the world!
Changzhi is one of the birthplaces of Chinese civilization, with records of human activity dating back to the late Paleolithic era. Since then, it has never strayed far from the core of civilization throughout successive dynasties.
The ancient capitals recorded in historical texts—Pingyang of Emperor Yao, Puban of Emperor Shun, and Anyi of Emperor Yu—are all located about 100 kilometers west and southwest of Changzhi. The Erlitou site, a remnant of pre-Shang culture, lies approximately 100 kilometers due south. The Yinxu site in Anyang, Henan, the earliest capital ruins in China, is less than 100 kilometers due east of Changzhi.
This all indicates one thing: in the minds of the ancients, Changzhi was at the heart of civilization. The history and culture of Changzhi are just as its name suggests—long-standing, well-ordered, and peacefully governed.
A thousand years of history feels like but an instant.
As a long-standing core area of civilization, records of Changzhi date back to ancient times. Well-known myths and legends such as Nüwa Mending the Heavens, Jingwei Filling the Sea, and Shennong Tasting a Hundred Herbs all originated here.
After the age of legends came the feudal era. When the Zhou Son of Heaven enfeoffed the land, a state known as "Lu" was established here. The name "Lu" has been used in Changzhi for over a thousand years, from Luzhou and Lu'an Prefecture to today's Luzhou District and Lucheng District in Changzhi. This continuous historical and cultural legacy has left a deep imprint on the city.
Ancient temples now stand without worshippers.
To understand Changzhi, one must first learn about its more famous ancient name—Shangdang. Those familiar with history will undoubtedly recognize this ancient place name. Those less acquainted might still know the Chinese medicinal herb "dangshen" (Codonopsis), whose "dang" character comes from Shangdang.
The boundaries of what the ancients called Shangdang changed multiple times, and today there is no administrative unit called "Shangdang Commandery." However, as the core area of historical Shangdang, Changzhi—a culturally renowned city in southeastern Shanxi—still retains many memories of the past.
The Capital City God Temple, which oversees all City God Temples under heaven.
In Shanxi, where the terrain is fragmented, all major cities are located in mountain basins. Datong and Shuozhou in the Datong Basin, Xinzhou in the Xinding Basin, Taiyuan and Jinzhong in the Taiyuan Basin, and Linfen and Yuncheng in the lower Fen River Valley. These five basins form a line from northeast to southwest, with unobstructed intercity transportation, shaping the main urban cluster of Shanxi.
Changzhi is an exception. The Changzhi Basin is located in southeastern Shanxi, relatively distant from other basins, separated by the 400-li-long Taiyue Mountains. Compared to other cities in Shanxi, Changzhi feels more like an independent geographical unit.
The Shangdang Highlands have always been a contested strategic location.
If you look closely at the map of Shanxi Province, you'll notice its shape resembles a regular parallelogram. To the east and south are vast plains formed by the Yellow River, while the cities of Changzhi and Jincheng in southeastern Shanxi, due to the southern extension of the Taihang Mountains and the eastern extension of the Wangwu Mountains, form a protruding highland. This highland is what is traditionally known as the Shangdang Highlands.
Over 2,000 years ago, King Zhaoxiang of Qin, a ruler of great talent and bold vision, led the Qin military and civilians—operating like a war machine—to initiate the most crucial step toward unifying the entire realm: the capture of Shangdang.
The Wufeng Tower has witnessed countless rises and falls, glories and humiliations.
To achieve this goal, Qin staked everything, mobilizing all males over the age of 15 from the Fen River Plain. The Qin king even personally went to the front lines to supervise the battle. Ultimately, Qin won the Battle of Changping and incorporated Shangdang into its territory. From then on, the six states east of Hangu Pass could no longer resist Qin's annexation, and the unification of China became only a matter of time.
The importance of Shangdang lies in its strategic location. The Taihang Mountains, running north to south, act like a wall separating the North China Plain from the plains and valleys of Shanxi. There are only eight mountain passes facilitating communication between Shanxi and the outside world, known as the "Eight Passes of Taihang." One of them, the Fukou Pass, is located east of Changzhi City.
When Chai Rong of the Later Zhou dynasty captured Shangdang, it allowed his general Zhao Kuangyin to strike directly at Taiyuan. Conversely, when Liu Wuzhou, who controlled Shanxi in the late Sui dynasty, failed to take Changzhi, he constantly had to worry about his rear while confronting the Tang forces. This illustrates the significance of the Shangdang Highlands for ancient regimes: controlling it provided a key to block invaders and further aspire to dominate the entire Loess Plateau.
From this perspective, Changzhi City's rich historical and cultural resources are closely related to the unique position granted by its geography. Although Changzhi is no longer a frontline of military conflict today, its rugged terrain and internal prosperity have helped preserve many historical relics within the city, allowing them to be seen in their complete form even now.
Thousands of years have passed, and the Taiyue Mountains still stand west of Changzhi City. Now designated as a national forest park, the area is lush with trees, mountain flowers, and wild grasses. Only the countless cliffs and precipices remain as witnesses to the former strategic importance of this natural barrier.
The Shenlong Bay Cliff Highway on the gorge precipice,
Between the Taihang and Taiyue Mountains, rivers like the Zhuozhang meander, not only providing ample water sources for the Changzhi Basin but also carving magnificent landforms through the mountains. At scenic spots such as Huguan Baquan Gorge and Qinglong Gorge, the dramatic contrast between high mountains and deep valleys is vividly displayed, with elevation differences of up to a kilometer, making this a rare wonder on Earth.
The secret of the Changzhi Basin’s reliable harvests despite droughts and floods,
Shanxi is mountainous, but Changzhi lies in a flat basin surrounded by high mountains on all four sides—east, west, north, and south. This makes it easy to defend and hard to attack. Moreover, the basin experiences no severe cold in winter nor intense heat in summer, with four distinct seasons. Regardless of dynastic changes or the shifts of time, as long as stability is maintained, Changzhi remains a prosperous land.
There is a consensus in archaeology: "To see cultural relics above ground, look to Shanxi." As a mountainous province, Shanxi’s enclosed geographical environment has spared most of its cities and villages from excessive external impact. Additionally, the relatively low air humidity in inland Shanxi helps protect ancient wooden structures from dampness and decay. Furthermore, the ancient Shanxi merchants were among the wealthiest in China, and the riches they earned from outside continuously flowed back into the province. The widespread ancient architecture in Shanxi today is largely a legacy from that era.
Carved beams and painted rafters—the beauty of Chinese architectural art.
To see cultural relics above ground, look to Shanxi; to see Shanxi’s cultural relics, look to Shangdang. Why? Because Shangdang is a microcosm of Shanxi’s rich ancient architecture. Walking through Changzhi, the beauty of ancient China is engraved in wooden structures that have endured a thousand years of weathering. Changzhi City still boasts a large number of ancient buildings with historical, cultural, and artistic value, such as Faxing Temple, Wufeng Tower, and Guanyin Hall. The concentration of ancient architecture in Changzhi—and throughout Shanxi—is unparalleled in China. Today, Changzhi has 73 nationally protected key cultural relics sites, even surpassing many lower-ranked provinces.
Tourists visiting Paris would never miss the Arc de Triomphe—its grandeur, elegance, and antiquity are the source of Paris’s romantic charm. Similarly, Changzhi has such a landmark gate, but with an even longer history. It endows Changzhi with a more elegant and profound气质—this is the Shangdang Gate.
The Shangdang Gate was first built during the Sui Dynasty’s Kaihuang era, and至今已有 over 1,400 years of history. Originally the main gate of the Shangdang government office, it has weathered storms and frequent wars. The original government buildings are long gone, but the Shangdang Gate still stands in Changzhi City, narrating a millennium of history.
The bell tower of Shangdang Gate, showcasing its grandeur.
Image credit/VCG
In terms of气质, Changzhi rivals Paris; in historical depth, it can look down upon many ancient capitals in China. When visiting Beijing, Xi’an, or Shanghai, many people make it a point to check out the local City God Temples. In Changzhi, there are two City God Temples of even higher规格.
One is the Lu’an Prefecture City God Temple, built in the Yuan Dynasty with over 800 years of history. Long history alone is not rare in our country, but what stands out is that the Lu’an Prefecture City God Temple is the largest and best-preserved City God Temple in China. The other is known as the "City God Temple of the Realm," claiming jurisdiction over all City God Temples in the country. Located on Tianzi Ridge in the southeast of Shangdang District, Changzhi City, its overall structure integrates with the mountain, adding a majestic气质 to this ancient building.
It is believed that the blessings of the City God
have made this place a land of fortune.
This is Changzhi—an ancient city still alive, a place where China’s 5,000 years of history are engraved in its streets and alleys.
Leisurely and reserved—these are the labels often attached to the people of Changzhi.
To the east of Changzhi stands the towering Taihang Mountains, and to the northwest lies the densely forested Taiyue Mountains. Even neighboring Jincheng, which also lies on the Shangdang Plateau, is separated from Changzhi by the Danzhu Ridge. The mountain passages were so rugged and difficult to traverse that over time, a social ethos of steadiness, pragmatism, and strong attachment to the land took shape in Changzhi.
The people of Changzhi are generally reserved, calm, and somewhat conservative, with a strong attachment to their hometown. Unless they are particularly ambitious, most are unwilling to venture far from home—a temperament shaped over millennia. In fact, most lack the motivation to leave, as the Changzhi Basin itself is a small "Land of Abundance." During the agricultural era, the Zhuozhang River and the vast plains within the basin ensured stable harvests year after year, supporting a thriving population in Changzhi.
Changzhi villagers perform a rain-praying ceremony at the Dragon King Temple on the second day of the second lunar month.
The best reflection of a region’s produce is its local cuisine. The main crop in the Changzhi Basin is wheat. As a standout representative of China’s top carb-producing province, Changzhi’s mastery and creativity in noodle dishes should not be underestimated. Zhangzi fried pancakes are golden, fragrant, and not greasy; Wuxiang date cakes are bright, sweet, and refreshing; and the lamb noodle soup is a beloved comfort food for Changzhi locals. Even in Shanxi, a province renowned for its exquisite noodle dishes, these are considered delicacies worth boasting about.
A top contender from the noodle province steps up to the challenge.
Fig.1: Image credit/VCG
Compared to other regions, Changzhi people do have one unique culinary preference: donkey meat. In the past, locals often said, "Lu’an Prefecture has three treasures: cured meat, jelly noodles, and crispy baked rolls." The cured meat here is not the same as the smoked and air-dried variety from southern China—it refers to donkey meat prepared in the twelfth month of the lunar year.
Traditional Lucheng flaky pancakes also rely heavily on donkey. The dough is stretched paper-thin with a rolling pin, brushed with donkey oil, and baked on a griddle for a few minutes. The resulting pancake is snow-white, the donkey oil golden and translucent, and when rolled with rosy cured donkey meat, it is a visual delight. As for the taste… one bite and it feels like all the world’s flavors are contained within.
Source/ Dongfang Shuo & Jia Buzhidao
With such delicious food, how could fine wine be missing? Today, Shanxi Fenjiu is the most famous, but for a long time in history, Fenjiu and Changzhi’s Lujiu were equally renowned. Records show that as early as the Tang Dynasty, brewing was already popular in Luzhou. During Emperor Xuanzong’s reign, it was even served at imperial banquets, imbuing Changzhi’s fine wines with the aura of the Kaiyuan Golden Age.
Today, the "Three Treasures of Lu’an Prefecture" have a new version: codonopsis (dangshen), yellow millet, and luhemp—now Changzhi’s new calling cards to the outside world. Compared to the old three, the new three enjoy greater recognition beyond the region. But locals don’t seem to mind. For the people of Changzhi, the local food and produce are simply part of daily life. Their favorite flavors come from small neighborhood eateries, and their favorite noodle dishes from home kitchens not open to the public. Often, even just leaving their own street means leaving behind the familiar taste.
Possibly one of the earliest crops domesticated by the ancestors of Huaxia;
The ancients said, "The best codonopsis comes from Shangdang";
Today, authentic codonopsis is hard to find.
In Changzhi, you can see young people strolling leisurely through the City God Temple Square, visiting historic sites and seeking out famous snacks—exuding a tranquility uncommon for their age. As night falls, Qiaobei Street bustles with activity; from Bayi Square to Binhe Park, elderly folks bask in the sun, play cards, and when the mood strikes, perform a piece of Lu’an drum music, showing onlookers why this is known as the "Hometown of Chinese Quyi."
A leisurely and serene Changzhi—where life continues uninterrupted. Couples seek divination at Faxing Temple, children run beneath ancient pagodas, and the City God Temple Cultural Street remains as lively as ever. Centuries have passed, and the world has changed dramatically, but Changzhi remains Changzhi. For this ancient city with millennia of history, a hundred years of life is but a fleeting moment.
Image/VCG
Cover Image | Li Ping'an