Why Does the Former "Second Largest City in Northwest China" Now Have a Rust Belt Vibe?
Located in the central-western part of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, Baotou is a city with a unique character.
This city boasts a glorious past. Over 50 years ago, its population once exceeded that of Lanzhou and Urumqi, second only to Xi'an. Its industrial output value far surpassed that of most cities in China during the same period, making its comprehensive strength worthy of the title "Second City of the Northwest."
Unlike the stereotypical image of lush grasslands and herds of cattle and sheep in the frontier regions, walking through Baotou, one sees broad, straight tree-lined avenues and majestic squares, creating an illusion of being in 1980s Moscow.
In Baotou, if you take a bus from west to east, you will notice a strange phenomenon: within the same city, the dialects in the east and west are vastly different.
For example, a steaming boiled corn cob is called "sticky corn" (粘苞米) by street vendors in the westernmost Kundulun District of Baotou. Their calls evoke images of the white mountains and black waters under the cold northern sun. In the easternmost Donghe District, however, it is called "corn cob" (玉茭茭). Its golden color resembles the yellow earth cultivated for generations by the people of old Shanxi at the foot of the Taihang Mountains.
It is astonishing that two regions with such distinct cultural styles coexist as neighbors. The secret lies in Baotou's natural landscape, cultural features, and historical origins.
Between the vast Northwest, the Yin Mountains, and the Yellow River,
how did the grassland city of Baotou come into being?
Compared to traditional agricultural regions in China, the vast Northwest, mostly located in arid and semi-arid areas, appears rather barren. Across millions of square kilometers, "lonely smoke rising in the vast desert" is a daily常态.
The Tumochuan Plain, where Baotou is situated, is one of the few lush and fertile areas in the vast desert and Gobi.
Nurtured at the southern foot of the Yin Mountains and on the northern bank of the Yellow River, this hidden gem thrives.
The Tumochuan Plain, located at the southern foot of the Yin Mountains, is the prosperous land praised in Northern Dynasty folk songs where "the wind blows the grass low, revealing cattle and sheep."
What makes this land so special is the abundance of water, the source of life that nourishes all things.
The towering Yin Mountains stand like giants on the vast Inner Mongolian Plateau, blocking summer moisture from the Pacific Ocean and retaining precious water resources within China.
Blessed by nature, the Tumochuan Plain gathers life from surrounding areas, making this land of approximately 10,000 square kilometers vibrant and lively.
If the Yin Mountains brought life to the Tumochuan Plain, the Yellow River infused it with a soul.
After flowing north from the Ningxia Plain into Inner Mongolia, the Yellow River first passes through the Hetao Plain, then narrows abruptly due to the terrain until it enters Baotou. As the rushing Yellow River flows into the Tumochuan Plain, its speed slows, and the riverbed widens.
The vast Nanhai Ecological Wetland, with its shimmering blue waves, is a selfless gift from the winding Yellow River to this city. Here, seagulls soar, and fish swim freely, embodying the phrase "all creatures compete for freedom under the frosty sky."
Born in this life-nurturing land, Baotou is naturally a city with stories to tell.
The Yin Mountains served as the boundary between ancient agricultural and nomadic civilizations. Located at the foot of these mountains, Baotou was the northernmost edge of China's agricultural region for millennia and a strategic stronghold contested by military forces throughout history.
Tracing its origins, the history of Baotou city can be dated back to Jiuyuan City in the Warring States period and Wuyuan Prefecture in the Han Dynasty.
In 1998, the local municipal government renamed the former suburbs of Baotou to "Jiuyuan District," evoking memories of the great Qin Empire from over 2,000 years ago.
The enduring ruins of the Qin Great Wall stand as evidence of the Qin Empire's existence.
The revival of ancient names for modern places carries a unique charm, while using contemporary names for ancient locations adds a touch of humor.
For example, Zhao Yun, the silver-speared general on a white horse from the late Han and Three Kingdoms period, hailed from Changshan, located in present-day Zhengding County, Shijiazhuang City, Hebei Province. However, if he had introduced himself as "I am Zhao Zilong from Shijiazhuang," one wonders if he would still possess the same aura of bravery that allowed him to charge through the Battle of Changban seven times.
Lü Bu, leader of the Xiliang Army, was a native of Wuyuan Prefecture, which is today's Baotou. In modern terms, he would have introduced himself at the Battle of Hulao Pass as "Lü Bu from Baotou."
However, from the Qin and Han Dynasties' campaigns against the Xiongnu to the Northern Wei's unification of the north, from the Six Garrisons Uprising to the Battle of Tumu Fort during the reign of Emperor Yingzong of Ming... Baotou, having endured the ravages of war, no longer resembles its former self.
Nomadic culture has left a deep imprint on this land.
By the early Qing Dynasty, with the establishment of modern Baotou, the ancient traces of Jiuyuan City were completely erased.
At that time, Baotou had already become pastureland for nomadic tribes, known as "Botou" or "Boketu," which means "place with deer" in Mongolian.
Although sparsely populated, Baotou's geographical location is crucial. The straight-line distance from Baotou to Beijing is less than 500 kilometers, to northern Shaanxi about 200 kilometers, and to Mandula Town on the China-Mongolia border only 290 kilometers.
The rise of modern Baotou is closely tied to this strategic advantage.
Under the combined influence of the Yellow River and the Yin Mountains,
the fertile Hetao Plain was formed.
In modern Chinese trade history, there was a famous group of merchants known as the Jin merchants. They purchased porcelain and tea from southern China and trekked thousands of miles to sell these expensive, uniquely Eastern goods to the capital of the Russian Empire, Saint Petersburg.
This Ten-Thousand-Mile Tea Road was fraught with dangers. Severe cold, sandstorms, and banditry could bring ruin to the Jin merchants who risked everything for wealth. Thus, cities along this route, such as present-day Ulaanbaatar (the capital of Mongolia), Kyakhta in Russia, and Novosibirsk, served as vital shelters and distribution centers for these merchants.
In winter, Baotou showcases the typical scenery of northern China.
Situated by the Yellow River and rich in resources, Baotou emerged as a key hub for land and water transportation and trade.
This important geopolitical position was further strengthened after the founding of the People's Republic of China with the construction of railways.
As the saying goes, "When the train whistles, gold pours in." The importance of railways to a city's development is self-evident.
After the founding of New China, the Beijing-Baotou Railway and Baotou-Lanzhou Railway spanning east to west, together with the Baotou-Xi'an Railway and Baotou-Manzhouli Railway running north to south, made Baotou a crossroads of railway transportation in western China.
Today, the Linhe-Hami Railway connecting Linhe in Inner Mongolia and Hami in Xinjiang has been fully opened, shortening the route from Beijing to Urumqi by 800 kilometers without the need to detour through Xi'an and Lanzhou. This has also made Baotou the most important distribution center for people, goods, and culture along this new route into Xinjiang.
In 2021, the film "Hi, Mom" was released, earning both laughter and tears in theaters, as well as achieving box office success and critical acclaim.
At the same time, it was puzzling that most people in Xiangyang, Hubei, spoke with a northeastern accent in the film.
Northeastern industrial immigrants laid the foundation for Baotou's prosperous development today.
This small cultural phenomenon reveals a magnificent chapter of history. During the Third Front Construction in the 1960s, millions of industrial workers from northeastern China migrated to the "Third Front regions," creating many "Northeastern dialect islands" within the country.
Besides Xiangyang, where the film is set, similar examples include Panzhihua in Sichuan, Anshun's Pingba District in Guizhou, and Jiayuguan in Gansu.
However, the earliest destination for northeastern industrial workers was Baotou.
The backbone of the "Hundred-Mile Steel City" is the Baotou Iron and Steel Company.
When it comes to local specialties, people in Ordos, adjacent to Baotou, proudly mention "sheep, coal, rare earth, and gas" — cashmere, coal, rare earth, and natural gas. Baotou is not lacking in these resources, but if you ask a Baotou local, they might give a more hardcore answer: tanks.
To understand why Baotou is so hardcore, we must start with the "156 Projects."
In the first half of the 20th century, China was still entirely an agricultural nation, unable to produce even a single car. Its output of steel, coal, and fertilizers lagged far behind the world average. It wasn't until 1955 that the Soviet Union-led aid program, the "156 Key Projects," began to be implemented. This was the first and only time in human history that one country transferred a complete industrial system to another.
Many of these projects are still operational today, such as FAW, Ansteel, Shenyang Aircraft Corporation, and Xi'an Aircraft Industrial Group. The inspiring domestically produced large aircraft C919 also bears the imprint of Xi'an Aircraft Industrial Group.
Steelworkers were the main force of early immigrants.
Baotou was fortunate: the five projects allocated to the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region were not assigned to any of its major cities. Instead, China chose to concentrate these newly built factories on the barren land northwest of old Baotou.
The reason for this choice was that beneath Baotou lay rich treasures.
The Bayan Obo Mining District in Baotou means "rich sacred mountain" in Mongolian. "Abundant resources and outstanding people" is the most fitting description of this place. In terms of resources, Bayan Obo possesses 57% of the world's rare earth reserves, as well as rich iron ore deposits urgently needed for building New China. It is also home to nationally renowned heroines, the "Little Sisters of the Grassland."
The people gathered by industry quickly enriched the city. A new city capable of accommodating a million people rose from this barren land.
In those years, Baotou's population surged at an annual rate of 150%. By 1978, whether in terms of built-up area or population, it was the "second-largest city in Northwest China," second only to Xi'an.
Symmetry and strict order are the principles of Baotou's urban planning.
A large number of steel industry workers from factories such as Anshan Iron and Steel Group flocked to Baotou, turning the city's largest new urban area—Kundulun District—into a settlement for Northeasterners. In another new urban area, Qingshan District, the Mandarin spoken by the second generation of immigrants also carries a strong Northeastern accent.
What makes Baotou resemble Northeast China is not just the people's accents. Street names full of industrial vibes, such as "Shaoxian Road," "Kexue Road," and "Gangtie Avenue," can be seen everywhere in the two western districts of Baotou. The wide boulevards and symmetrically laid-out urban blocks also make this pearl of the western grasslands feel like any familiar industrial city in Northeast China.
Boulevards with neoclassical aesthetic charm.
Gathering people from Shanxi and Liaoning, converging in a precious land.
If the western districts of Baotou showcase the modern industrial civilization of China, then the Donghe District reflects the long-standing historical and cultural lineage of China.
This is not Tibet—this is Wudangzhao, a Buddhist temple in Baotou.
Although the Shanxi immigrant community in Baotou formed earlier than the Northeastern one, Shanxi people are not actually indigenous to Baotou either.
American crops such as corn and sweet potatoes, introduced to China during the Ming Dynasty, along with the prolonged peace in the interior during the reigns of Kangxi, Yongzheng, and Qianlong, tripled China's population. However, the surplus population pushed the conflict between humans and land to its most critical point.
The land of Shanxi has long been known for its "magnificent mountains and rivers." Mountains such as Lüliang and Taihang endow Shanxi with beautiful natural scenery but also limit its arable land, making the province's agricultural output far smaller than that of neighboring Hebei and Shaanxi.
Migration became the only way out for many residents of Shanxi and Shaanxi.
The TV drama *Qiao's Grand Courtyard* introduced countless viewers to Shanxi's merchant culture. In fact, Baotou has an equally large and ancient "Bai Family Courtyard," originally built by the legendary Shanxi merchant Wang Kentang, who traded in Mongolia. It has maintained its original appearance despite a century of upheavals.
The Bai Family Courtyard is a microcosm of Shanxi immigrants putting down roots in Inner Mongolia. In the entire western part of Inner Mongolia, 80% of the population are descendants of immigrants from Shanxi and Shaanxi. Across the vast land stretching from Ulanqab in the east to Alxa in the west, spanning over a thousand kilometers, most people speak with a strong Shanxi accent.
And Baotou is the most unique city in central and western Inner Mongolia.
In this city, immigrants from various regions interact, forming Baotou's distinctive culture. Linguistically, it transitions from Northeastern Mandarin in the west to the Jin dialect (Datong-Baotou variant) in the east.
For example, when expressing confusion about something, people in western Baotou might say in a rough Northeastern accent, "Zhèng bù míngbái" (can't figure it out), while those in the east would say, like their Shanxi ancestors, "Nào bù jīmì" (can't make sense of it).
Morning joggers and park goats, an unexpected encounter.
In addition to the dialects brought by immigrants, the native Mongolian language has also widely influenced the Baotou dialect. In Mongolian, a thief is called a "hoolgai," and this term has expanded in usage among Baotou locals. A bold and arrogant person can be called a "hoolgai," and frivolous speech can also be described as "hoolgai."
Despite such differences in language, when it comes to food, Baotou people make no distinctions.
Oat noodles and shaomai (steamed dumplings) brought by Shanxi immigrants have been revitalized in Inner Mongolia, becoming beloved dishes for all Baotou residents.
Oat noodles, rooted in the Loess Plateau, have a slightly rougher texture compared to refined rice and wheat flour, but old Suiyuan people love their chewy, springy texture. In the hands of Shanxi chefs, experts in noodle dishes, oat noodles are made into oat noodle nests, oat noodle fish, cold mixed oat noodles, steamed oat noodles...
Much like its highly malleable shape, the flavor of oat noodles is deeply intertwined with its accompaniments. The most common way to enjoy oat noodles is with minced lamb sauce—the freshness and gaminess of lamb form a perfect pairing with the hearty, chewy texture of the noodles. A simple steamer of oat noodles is a remnant of Shanxi culinary traditions among the immigrant communities in Baotou.
From east to west, the busiest stalls at the night markets in the evening are undoubtedly those of Northeastern-style barbecue. Baotou barbecue can be said to have surpassed its Northeastern origins. Baotou boasts not only seasoned Northeastern barbecue masters, a rich barbecue culture, and coke produced after steel smelting, but also plump lambs that graze on the tender pastures beneath the Yin Mountains.
Lamb skewers are the star of Baotou barbecue.
When it comes to Inner Mongolia and lamb, one cannot overlook the clear-water hot pot and hand-grabbed lamb, both widely favored by Inner Mongolians. No additional base ingredients are needed—just a copper pot and plain water are enough to bring out the innate freshness of Inner Mongolian lamb.
The pursuit of good food knows no regional boundaries or age limits. Once at the table, everyone’s origins fade away. Amid clinking glasses and cheerful toasts, the straightforward enthusiasm of Northeasterners and the meticulous subtlety of Shanxi people intertwine on the vast, rugged landscape of the Northwest, creating a unique tapestry.
The intermingling of residents from various regions means Baotou lacks the distinct regional character typical of most cities. Yet this cultural fusion and harmonious blend of accents have precisely shaped Baotou’s unique identity, setting it apart from any other city in western China.
Times have changed, and the Yin Mountains and Hetao region have long been imbued with rich cultural significance. From the verse “If the Flying General were still in Dragon City, / never would the Tartar steeds cross the Yin Mountains” to “The frontier horses are full of spirit, / the beacon fires of Hetao stretch for two thousand miles,” the ancient battlefields have long fallen silent, and the beacon towers no longer send up columns of smoke. Yet these historical events have melted into the mountains and rivers, becoming the historical source of Baotou’s unique character today.
Baotou—a city so expansive you could herd horses here.
From the fall of Jiuyuan City to the revival of the “Journey to the West” migration, and then to the great migrations of the industrial era, this city at the foot of the Yin Mountains has weathered countless storms.
The lush and fertile Tumochuan Plain has always welcomed visitors from all directions with open arms and an inclusive attitude.
A multicultural and harmonious Baotou is the best testament to this.
Cover image credit | Visual China Group