Why Is This Low-Key Ancient Capital of Thirteen Dynasties Trending Again?
Luoyang, Henan, has experienced prosperity and destruction several times. Now, after weathering countless changes, it suddenly rises to prominence again.
Since the beginning of this year, a series of Luoyang-themed cultural programs and film and television dramas have taken the internet by storm upon release, receiving widespread acclaim—"Luoshen Water Ode," performed underwater, is ethereal and agile; "Longmen Vajra," with heaven and earth as its stage, features flying apsaras and vajra dancing gracefully under the gaze of the great Buddha.
Figure 1: The "Goddess of the Luo River" dancing underwater;
Figure 2: "Vajra" dancers in front of the Longmen Grottoes.
Image / Screenshots from the programs "Luoshen Water Ode" and "Longmen Vajra"
Recently, two film and television dramas adapted from Ma Boyong's novels—"Mystery of Antiques" and "Luoyang"—were released one after another. The former is a suspenseful adventure story centered around a Tang Dynasty Luoyang Mingtang Buddha head, while "Luoyang" is set against the backdrop of Luoyang during Wu Zetian's era, painting a captivating picture of the divine capital from the very beginning—
The brightly lit three markets and 109 residential blocks, where people live and work in peace and contentment, and commerce thrives. The bustling South Market gathers rare treasures from north and south. Shoppers jostle shoulder to shoulder, including Central Plains men and women of all ages, as well as merchants from distant foreign lands. The Taichu Palace and Xianju Hall, serving as the imperial palace, along with the ongoing construction of the Heavenly Hall project, are immensely grand and majestic.
The recreation of the divine capital's prosperity in "Luoyang."
Image / Screenshot from the TV drama "Luoyang"
There are also the steaming and savory local delicacies, attracting nobles and princes to appreciate them, with many onlookers gathering around. A single comment of "passable" is enough to cause a sensation throughout the city. Fish slices tumble and swirl in the pot's broth, while lamb soup is always most delicious in the first bowl of the morning.
No city like Luoyang has ever used "Zhongguo" (China) as its alternative name; no ancient capital like Luoyang has ever been crowned with the unique title "Shendu"—the capital of the Divine Land.
Lijing Gate, the "western gate" of Luoyang's old city
Like Luoyang, it has been destroyed and rebuilt repeatedly.
It was once immensely glorious, attracting 13 dynasties to establish their capitals here and 105 emperors to rule from here, forming the political and economic axis of medieval China together with Chang'an. It has also experienced extreme desolation, burned to the ground multiple times in the fires of war.
The history of Luoyang's changes is a microcosm of the rise and fall of ancient Chinese dynasties. The divine capital during Wu Zetian's era was Luoyang's most dazzling "highlight moment."
The grandeur of the Tang Dynasty, the unique divine capital of the Divine Land
Luoyang during the Tang Dynasty was also known as the Eastern Capital, holding a status equal to that of the capital Chang'an. After Emperor Gaozong of Tang fell seriously ill, Empress Wu Zetian assumed power and renamed the Eastern Capital "Shendu," elevating Luoyang's status above that of Chang'an.
The Mingtang of the Tang Dynasty is considered the largest wooden structure in history.
After its destruction, a smaller Mingtang was rebuilt by modern people.
In 690 AD, Wu Zetian declared herself emperor, changing the Tang Dynasty to the Zhou Dynasty. To distinguish it from the Li Tang Dynasty, she established the capital at Shendu and "relocated hundreds of thousands of households from Yong, Tong, Qin, and seven other prefectures outside the pass to populate Luoyang," expanding the city's scale unprecedentedly. At this time, Luoyang's industrial and commercial development also reached its peak, with Hu people, Persians, and merchants from Central Asia doing business in Luoyang. Today, archaeologists have even discovered silver coins from the Persian Sassanid Dynasty.
The Tian Tang (Heaven Hall) within the Sui-Tang Luoyang City National Heritage Park was reconstructed in recent years.
Wu Zetian favored Luoyang, not only proclaiming herself emperor here but also residing here frequently in her later years, eventually passing away in the Xianju Hall of the Shangyang Palace. She was also highly superstitious about the Luo River, regarding it as a divine river. During the season of "Luo Pu Autumn Breeze," she would conduct grand ceremonies here, building temples, erecting steles, and bestowing posthumous titles.
The grottoes on Longmen's West Hill took over 400 years to construct, achieving their present form.
During Wu Zetian's era, the sculpting activities at the Longmen Grottoes reached their peak, arguably representing the culmination of the Dunhuang and Yungang Grottoes. Due to relative peace and increased social wealth, the creation of statues at Longmen was no longer exclusive to the nobility; the general public also widely participated.
The Longmen Grottoes still bear the imprint of the High Tang period.
Among the Longmen Grottoes, the most exquisitely carved and largest in scale are still the imperial grottoes. The most renowned masterpiece is the Vairocana Buddha Niche (Fengxian Temple), commissioned by Emperor Gaozong of Tang. Its principal statue, the Vairocana Buddha, is the tallest sculpture in the Longmen Grottoes. Due to its merciful and elegant demeanor and full, rounded face, folklore suggests it was carved based on Wu Zetian's likeness.
The Vairocana Buddha was carved during Wu Zetian's reign.
After Wu Zetian's death, the glory of the Divine Capital dimmed. Luoyang's imperial palaces, Ming Tang (Hall of Enlightenment), Tian Tang (Heaven Hall), and Tian Shu (Celestial Pillar) were all destroyed. The An Lushan Rebellion further caused severe damage to Luoyang. According to the Old Book of Tang, Luoyang at that time had "palaces burned, less than one in ten remaining," with most original structures reduced to foundations or even completely vanished, evoking sighs of regret.
Since its founding, Luoyang, due to its central location "in the middle of the world," was considered an ideal imperial capital. On the other hand, this also made it a strategic military target since ancient times. Extreme prosperity accompanied by extreme destruction seems to have been the fate of ancient Luoyang.
It was indeed the "heaven-made majestic capital" contested by military strategists.
Born with a silver spoon, sitting right at the "center of the world."
When Chinese civilization was in its infancy, Luoyang was a child accompanying it, born with a silver spoon.
Located in the heart of the Nine Provinces, its strategic position is unparalleled under heaven.
This "silver spoon" refers to its superior geographical location. From a broad perspective, it lies in the heart of the Nine Provinces, at the center of the world, and is the "earliest China." Situated on the south bank of the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River, it is a crucial junction for east-west and north-south transportation, with extensive land and water routes, holding the strategic advantage of stabilizing the Central Plains.
Behind Daimei Mountain in the northwest corner of Luoyang flows the Yellow River.
From a narrower geographical view, it faces the Yi Que (Gate) to the south, leans against Mang Mountain to the north, has the strategic pass of Hu Lao and Cheng Gao to the east, and is fortified by Han Gu and Xiao Mian to the west. Surrounded by mountains and natural barriers, it has been said since ancient times to be "cradled by rivers and mountains, with a strategic position unmatched under heaven."
Longmen (Yi Que) resembles a natural gate tower, with the Yi River flowing through it.
Nestled among mountains and rivers, Luoyang lies in the fertile and richly endowed Yi-Luo Basin, crisscrossed by the Yi River, Luo River, and other waterways. Its considerable grain production supported a dense population.
The Xiaolangdi Reservoir north of Luoyang is hailed as the "Little Thousand Islands Lake."
With this "silver spoon," the ancient Chinese people valued this area early on. The Erlitou, Yanshi Shang City, Eastern Zhou Royal City, Han-Wei Ancient City, and Sui-Tang Luoyang City sites are aligned along the Luo River, creating the rare spectacle of "Five Capitals Gathering in Luoyang."
Along the Luo River, several dynasties established their capitals in Luoyang.
As early as over 3,800 years ago, cities emerged in the Luoyang region. Although disputed, the Erlitou cultural site is considered by some scholars to be the former capital of the Xia Dynasty; not far northeast of Erlitou, Xibo served as the founding capital of the Shang Dynasty.
The palace complex at the Erlitou site is regarded as China's earliest "Forbidden City."
Photo by Li Wenbo, Design by Wu Jiuyang
Much of the history of the Xia and Shang dynasties remains mysterious, and the identity of the ancient inhabitants of the Luoyang area is unclear. It was not until the establishment of the Western Zhou Dynasty that Luoyang’s role as a royal capital became clearly documented in historical records.
The capital of the Western Zhou was Haojing, near present-day Xi’an, which was relatively far from the Central Plains. To consolidate rule, the Duke of Zhou, brother of King Wu, built two cities in what is now Luoyang: Wangcheng to the west and Chengzhou to the east, collectively known as Luoyi. The Duke of Zhou praised the location as "the center of the world, equidistant for tributes from all directions," imbued with royal significance.
Statue of the Duke of Zhou constructing Luoyi at the Zhou Wangcheng Square.
After seven years of regency, the Duke of Zhou returned power to King Cheng of Zhou, who then resided long-term in Chengzhou. To emphasize Chengzhou's importance, King Cheng moved the Nine Tripod Cauldrons, symbols of royal authority, to Chengzhou. It is said that the tripods were transported into Luoyang through what is now the Dingding Gate, leaving later generations with the verse: "The majestic capital, place where the tripods were set, its power revered by all nations."
Western Zhou square ding with beast-face pattern unearthed at Beiyao, Luoyang.
A representative example of Zhou Dynasty ritual bronze vessels.
During the Western Zhou, Luoyang functioned more as a secondary capital. It became the formal royal capital after the "national-level" prank known as "the beacon fire trick on feudal lords." After the Western Zhou and Haojing were destroyed, King Ping of Zhou moved the capital to Wangcheng in Luoyi, historically known as the Eastern Zhou. Thanks to the Western Zhou's development, Luoyi quickly assumed the role of a political center, allowing the Zhou Dynasty to continue for several centuries after the eastward move.
Tragically, the realm fragmented, and the Zhou emperor could no longer control the chaotic conflicts among the feudal lords. While Luoyi remained quiet, wars raged beyond its walls, leaving the emperor to languish helplessly on his throne, feigning ignorance.
According to Zhou rites, "the Son of Heaven rides with six horses," and today, chariot and horse pits with six horses have been discovered.
After the fall of the Zhou Dynasty, the political center of the Central Plains alternated between Chang'an and Luoyang. From the Qin to the Western Han, the political center returned to the Guanzhong region, and Luoyang once became the fief of Lü Buwei, the Chancellor of Qin. Two centuries later, the Eastern Han again established its capital in Luoyang.
In Luoyang, it is not unusual to dig up cultural relics with just one shovel.
After the Eastern Han, the Central Plains became divided, and Luoyang, as a capital, experienced repeated cycles of prosperity and destruction. Each time the city was set ablaze, it suffered devastating losses.
During the Eastern Han, Luoyang’s urban construction, palace complexes, and scale of platforms and towers were extensive, and commerce flourished. However, this prosperity was short-lived. By the end of the Eastern Han, war ravaged the land, and Luoyang was severely damaged. Dong Zhuo forced Emperor Xian of Han to move the capital to Chang'an, "relocating millions of people from Luoyang to Chang'an." Subsequently, he set fire to Luoyang, "burning all palaces, temples, government offices, and homes, leaving nothing within a two-hundred-li radius."
Once one of the largest capitals in China and even the world.
During the Jian'an era, Cao Zhi passed through Luoyang while accompanying his father Cao Cao on a western campaign and wrote in "Poem Seeing Off Ying Shi":
I climb the northern Mang slope, Gazing afar at the mountains of Luoyang.
How desolate Luoyang was, with all its palaces and buildings burned to ashes.
Its walls and ramparts lay in ruins, while thorns and brambles grew as high as the sky.
This was the true portrayal of Luoyang at that time. Precisely because it was too desolate and unfit to be the capital, Cao Cao, shortly after entering Luoyang, forced Emperor Xian of Han to move to Xuchang.
The Cao Wei-era grand tomb at Xizhu Village in Luoyang.
By the time of the Cao Wei dynasty, the world had become somewhat peaceful, and Luoyang flourished once again. Emperor Wen, Cao Pi, relocated tens of thousands of households from Hebei and other regions to Luoyang. He rebuilt the Luoyang palaces on the site of the Eastern Han palace ruins and established Luoyang as the capital. When the Western Jin replaced Wei, they also made Luoyang their capital, and the city once again bustled with prosperity. However, this brought along extravagantly luxurious aristocratic lifestyles, such as the famous rivalry between Shi Chong and Wang Kai to flaunt their wealth, which took place in Luoyang.
Figure 1: Stone tablet unearthed from the Cao Wei grand tomb; Figure 2: Mural inside the Cao Wei grand tomb.
The fleeting prosperity vanished like smoke with the "War of the Eight Princes." In 303 AD, Zhang Fang massacred 10,000 innocent civilians in Luoyang. In 311 AD, Liu Yao of the Xiongnu ethnicity captured Luoyang, allowing his soldiers to plunder extensively, excavate tombs, and burn palaces, ancestral temples, and civilian homes. More than 30,000 officials and commoners were killed. After nearly a century of development, Luoyang was once again ravaged and reduced to ruins.
The Yongning Temple Pagoda was the landmark structure of Luoyang City during the Northern Wei dynasty, possibly reaching a height of 136.7 meters.
During the Northern and Southern Dynasties period, the Northern Wei unified the north, and the political and economic center shifted southward. Consequently, Emperor Xiaowen moved the capital to Luoyang. In this era of peace, Luoyang flourished once again. People of various ethnicities lived here, and merchants from the Western Regions came to trade. "All the rare goods under heaven were gathered here."
Clay sculpted Buddha face unearthed from the ruins of Northern Wei Luoyang City.
With a mysterious and enchanting smile at the corner of the mouth.
History seemed to repeat itself once again. When the Northern Wei capital moved north, Luoyang was immediately abandoned and suffered further wars. "All palaces, temples, and civilian houses inside and outside Luoyang were burned, with only ten to twenty percent remaining," and "the city’s buildings were completely destroyed by fire." After the fall of the Northern Wei, the ancient city of Han-Wei Luoyang was also abandoned.
By the Sui dynasty, China was reunified after four centuries of division, and Emperor Yang of Sui began rebuilding the eastern capital. In less than a year, the new city was largely completed. Emperor Yang relocated tens of thousands of wealthy merchants and thousands of artisans from across the country to Luoyang. By this time, Luoyang’s scale had far exceeded that of the former Zhou dynasty royal city and the Han-Wei ancient city.
The 2800-mu Sui-Tang City Ruins Botanical Garden.
To improve transportation between Luoyang and other regions, Emperor Yang of Sui also excavated the world-famous Grand Canal. Grain, silk, and various supplies could be continuously transported to Luoyang via water routes from the Yellow River and Yangtze River basins. After the canal was completed, Luoyang became a hub of land and water transportation, with unimpeded waterway logistics. The Sui dynasty’s development of Luoyang also laid the foundation for the later glorious Divine Capital of the Tang dynasty.
It was because of the rivers that Luoyang was repeatedly destroyed and revived.
The emperors, generals, rise and fall, glory and shame of ancient Luoyang are beyond our imagination today. However, much of the culture and philosophy that still benefits people today was born in Luoyang and nourished over time by the waters of the Yi and Luo Rivers.
As early as the Eastern Zhou dynasty, Luoyang, as the imperial capital, preserved abundant ancient texts, particularly official documents, archives, and legal codes of the Western Zhou. Laozi once served as the Historian of the Imperial Library of the Zhou dynasty, responsible for managing the collected texts, and resided in Luoyang. The majestic and elegant "Sacred Taoist Mountain," Laojun Mountain, is said to be where Laozi once cultivated himself in seclusion.
Snow scenery at the Golden Summit of Laojun Mountain—a view Laozi might have also witnessed.
Confucianism also originated here. According to historical records, Confucius traveled all the way from the State of Lu to Luoyang in a carriage pulled by two horses, enduring hardships to study there.
The White Horse Temple witnessed the first monks arriving in the Central Plains.
Later, Buddhism was introduced to China and first took root in Luoyang. Here stands the White Horse Temple, known as the "Cradle of Buddhism." Built during the Eastern Han Dynasty, it is the oldest Buddhist temple and the first government-run monastery in China.
For two thousand years, the White Horse Temple has never been relocated.
Since ancient times, Luoyang has been home to many talented individuals. During the Wei and Jin dynasties, when Ji Kang was convicted, 3,000 students from the Imperial Academy in Luoyang jointly petitioned to have him as their teacher, but their request was denied. Before Ji Kang was executed at the eastern market of Luoyang, the city had the privilege of hearing the final performance of "Guangling San." The literary scholar Zuo Si spent ten years writing "Ode to the Three Capitals," which became an instant sensation in Luoyang upon its release. Wealthy families vied to make copies, leaving behind the famous典故 of "Luoyang’s paper becomes expensive."
The epitaphs at the Qian Tang Zhi Zhai Museum are a glimpse into Luoyang's culture.
After the Song Dynasty, as China's political and economic centers shifted eastward and southward, and the canal routes became blocked, Luoyang, along with Chang'an, declined. Even so, Luoyang remained a long-standing center of culture and thought.
It was the birthplace of Neo-Confucianism during the Song Dynasty. The brothers Cheng Hao and Cheng Yi, masters of Neo-Confucianism, were from Luoyang. They lectured, wrote, and established the Luo School here. Additionally, figures like Sima Guang and Ouyang Xiu also lived in Luoyang. Sima Guang’s "Zizhi Tongjian" and the initial drafts of Ouyang Xiu’s "New Book of Tang" and "New History of the Five Dynasties" were largely completed in Luoyang.
The Drum Tower in Luoyang’s old city was first built during the Ming Dynasty.
Time has passed, and Luoyang has changed countless times, but its history and culture are沉淀 in its soil. Many of today’s customs have been passed down for millennia and are deeply ingrained. The vicissitudes of history and the splendor of culture linger in the speech and demeanor of Luoyang’s people.
A day for the people of Luoyang often begins with a bowl of soup in the morning. A simple bowl of soup can evoke the ceremonial feel of a noble banquet. In soup culture, the 24-course "Water Banquet" is a unique and authentic soup feast in Luoyang. The first dish of the Luoyang Water Banquet, "Luoyang Yan Cai," is said to have been named by Empress Wu Zetian.
Peony Yan Cai: a radish’s "peak in life."
Photo/handou5, Image provider/Hui Tu Net
Beef soup, mutton soup, donkey meat soup, tofu soup, meatball soup, bufan soup... Though not considered delicacies, Luoyang’s soups are inherited from ancient noble cuisine. Millennia of history simmer in these pots: in the ancestral temples of Luoyi, giant tripods used for sacrifices stood in solemn arrays, always filled with livestock and soup. The aroma of soup wafted ceaselessly, lingering before the ancestral tablets.
Today, there are at least a thousand soup shops in Luoyang’s urban area. The method of preparing a pot of soup that satisfies old-time Luoyang residents is extremely meticulous. The rich, aromatic broth is paired with various types of flatbreads, providing both satiety and ample nutrition.
The Luoyang mutton soup beloved even by Bai Li Er Lang.
Besides soup, traditional snacks such as Horse Hoof Street Wontons, Luoyang rice noodles, Jiang noodles, stir-fried bian dou, fried salted snacks, and Xin’an County steamed dumplings abound, all originating from long-standing local customs.
"If you want to know the rise and fall of ancient and modern times, just look at Luoyang." The tumultuous history of Luoyang is a microcosm of China’s wars and peace, prosperity and decline. Thousands of years of city-building and capital-building have left behind a vast cultural treasure for today’s people.
The elegance of the Divine Capital still hides in the streets and corners of Luoyang.
Top image/Visual China, bottom image photo/Wang Yuwen
In Luoyang, especially on the way to visit historical sites, one often encounters a few eloquent individuals speaking in the Luoyang dialect, their pride evident. Facing visitors from all directions, the people of Luoyang are confident and inclusive. The era of the Divine Capital has been over for more than a thousand years, but its grandeur has never left this land.
Cover Image | Behind-the-Scenes Photo from TV Series "Luoyang"