Why Jinhua is the Center of Zhejiang's Development?
▲ Jinhua-Yiwu Metropolitan Area, the fourth largest metropolitan area in Zhejiang Province. Photo/VCG
"Jinhua" must be one of the most poetic place names in China.
▲ A bird's-eye view of Jinhua city from Beishan Mountain. Photo/Muwen
Unlike most cities named after landscapes or geographical orientations, the name "Jinhua" originates from the sky—it is the place where the Wu Female Star (Vega) and the Venus contended in brilliance. Whether historically known as "Wuzhou" or its current name "Jinhua," both carry a poetic charm derived from the stars.
▲ Lunü Lake is located in the Huangdaxian Scenic Area of Jinhua Mountain, at an altitude of nearly 600 meters. Photo/Muwen
The cultural traditions here are deeply rooted in the heartland of Zhejiang, making it worthy of the title "Heart of Zhejiang." However, "inverted fame" has also become a distinctive feature of Jinhua. Locals often jokingly claim: Zhejiang Jinhua, China Yongkang, Asia Hengdian, World Yiwu! But behind the humor, it is undeniable that achieving great success in small industries and pursuing big dreams in small towns are innate skills of the people of Jinhua.
Why is Jinhua the "Heart of Zhejiang"?
Jinhua is located at the geographical center of Zhejiang, surrounded by Hangzhou and Shaoxing to the north, Quzhou to the west, Taizhou to the east, and Lishui to the south, making it the only city in Zhejiang that is neither coastal nor adjacent to provincial boundaries.
Its position as the heart of Zhejiang makes Jinhua a "representative" of Zhejiang's topography. Though Zhejiang is not large in area, it can be divided into six natural geographical units. Jinhua alone spans four of these divisions, making it one of the regions with the richest geographical landscapes in Zhejiang.
▲ A tranquil moment at the Sanhekou estuary in Jinhua urban area. Photo/Muwen
Major rivers in the central region traverse the Jinqu Basin, surrounded by smaller mountain basins such as Wuyi Basin and Yongkang Basin. These basins serve as the primary areas for urban development in central Zhejiang, hosting the city's urban districts and counties, nurturing the historic city of Jinhua, the small commodities capital Yiwu, and the "Asian Hollywood" Hengdian...
▲ Mount Xianhua is said to be the place where Yuanxiu, the youngest daughter of the Yellow Emperor, attained enlightenment and ascended to heaven. Photo/VCG
The northern part of Pujiang County belongs to the northwestern hilly region, where Mount Xianhua is known as "the most magnificent area between heaven and earth" and is said to be the place where Yuanxiu, the youngest daughter of the Yellow Emperor, attained enlightenment and ascended to heaven.
The eastern part of Pan'an County belongs to the eastern hilly region, with Mount Dapan running north to south. "Gazing afar at the thousand layers of waves to the north of the sea, one begins to believe it is the first peak south of the Yangtze." It is known as the ancestral mountain of eastern Zhejiang and the medicine valley of Jiangnan, not only dominating half the province but also serving as a major production area for five of the "Eight Famous Chinese Medicinal Materials of Zhejiang."
▲ Passing through the tunnel leads to the main urban area of Wuyi County. Photo/Li Qiong
The southern parts of Wuyi County and Yongkang City belong to the southern mountainous region, where Mount Niutou stands at 1,560 meters, the highest peak in central Zhejiang.
The heart-of-Zhejiang location also makes Jinhua a classic example of Zhejiang's "70% mountains, 10% water, and 20% farmland."
▲ Day and night views of the Three Rivers and Six Banks. Photo/Muwen
Across Jinhua's 10,942 square kilometers, there are 208 peaks over 1,000 meters high. Beneath the mountains of Jinhua and Lanxi lie karst landscapes such as Shuanglong Cave and Liudong Mountain Underground Long River; within the mountains of Yongkang, there are also fiery Danxia landforms like Fangyan.
▲ From top to bottom: Snowscape of Jinhua Mountain, Wuyi River, Wu River. Fig.1,2 Photo/Muwen, Fig.3/VCG
Rivers like the Wujiang, Dongyangjiang, Wuyijiang, and Puyangjiang wind through the mountains and hills of central Zhejiang. Though none are major rivers, this has spared the region from the worries of great floods. The precious basins nourished by these rivers have become the "two-fen fields" meticulously cultivated by the people of Jinhua. The small terraces near the rivers in these basins are among the earliest lands in Zhejiang to give birth to cultural brilliance.
▲ The precious basins nourished by the rivers have become the fertile fields meticulously cultivated by the people of Jinhua. Photo/VCG
As early as over 10,000 years ago, people began building houses, making pottery, and cultivating rice on a small elevated land called Shangshan by the Puyang River—archaeological discoveries in 2005 proved that Shangshan is the earliest region in the world for artificial rice cultivation, making it one of the origins of global rice farming culture.
Why is Jinhua the cultural light of Zhejiang?
In a province with many famous cities like Zhejiang, Jinhua's presence is far less prominent than Hangzhou, Ningbo, Wenzhou, or Shaoxing. But when it comes to cultural heritage, it is truly the light of Zhejiang.
▲ Aerial photo of golden rice fields near the Shangshan Site in Pujiang County. Photo/VCG
The 10,000-year-old Shangshan Site is not only an important origin of rice farming culture but also gave its name to the "Shangshan Culture," whose remnants are widespread in central and southern Zhejiang, marking the beginning of agricultural origins in Zhejiang and even East Asian cultural history.
In 2019, the Qiaotou Site in Yiwu, also part of the Shangshan Culture, revealed a moated settlement dating back 9,000 years, representing "a significant step from caves to basin settlements in human habitation history." The painted pottery unearthed at the Qiaotou Site is among the earliest painted pottery remnants in the world. Further archaeological discoveries await confirmation, potentially pushing the history of brewing back from Mesopotamia's 6,000 years to the Shangshan Culture's 9,000 years.
▲ Fig. 1: The large-mouthed basin of Shangshan Culture is a typical artifact; Fig. 2: Many pottery shards unearthed at the Shangshan Site contain rice husks, serving as evidence of early rice cultivation. Photo/A Lover of Jinhua
Whether it's rice, painted pottery, or brewing, these achievements, deeply connected to the soil, established Jinhua's strong rural traditions, with an "enterprise-level understanding" of the soil continually bearing fruit.
The later Wuzhou Kiln was one of the six famous kilns of the Tang Dynasty. Though less renowned than the Yue Kiln, also in Zhejiang, it was equally skilled in technique and led the times: it was one of the earliest kiln systems to develop underglaze brown decoration, use slip to decorate the body, and create opalescent glaze transmutation.
▲ The Wuzhou Kiln was one of the six famous kilns of the Tang Dynasty. Photo/VCG
This refined pursuit of decorative art is a concentrated representation of Zhejiang's local culture. Since the Tang Dynasty, Dongyang wood carving has ranked first among China's four major wood carvings, pioneering the Chinese "Baroque era" and representing the pinnacle of Chinese residential decorative art.
▲ Fig. 1: Dongyang wood carving in Jinhua residential architecture; Fig. 2: Yigu Hall in Xin'guang Village, Pujiang County. Photo/A Lover of Jinhua
Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, the "Dongyang Gang," represented by carpenters, masons, and engravers, became one of the three major construction guilds alongside the Xiangshan Gang and Ningbo Gang, wielding extensive influence.
A significant number of famous Huizhou residences were actually built by the Dongyang Gang. Professor Shan Deqi from Tsinghua University's School of Architecture stated, "The so-called Huizhou architecture originated from Dongyang's traditional construction techniques. The vast majority of traditional Huizhou residences during the Ming and Qing dynasties were built by Dongyang Gang craftsmen."
▲ Jinhua has preserved a large number of high-quality ancient villages. Photo: Xin'guang Village, Pujiang County. Photo/A Lover of Jinhua
Moreover, the Dongyang Gang even "entered the halls of power," becoming involved in the construction of royal palaces. During the Qing Dynasty's renovation of the Forbidden City, the Dongyang Gang played a major role, with over 400 Dongyang wood carving artisans summoned to Beijing between 1736 and 1795. In 2007, a replica of the "Qianlong Throne," carved with 900 dragons, was created for the Huangji Hall in the Beijing Palace Museum by Dongyang wood carving master Huang Xiaoming.
The "Hometown of Hundred Crafts" tradition continues to this day. Even now, Dongyang ranks first among China's counties and cities in the number of construction enterprises with top-tier qualifications.
Why is Jinhua Zhejiang's culinary secret?
Starting from the rice husks and grains of the Shangshan Culture, it is precisely Jinhua's "two-fen field" that has given rise to a splendid culinary tradition.
▲ Jinhua Ham, one of the world's three major hams. Photo/VCG
Without a doubt, whenever "Jinhua" is mentioned to any Chinese person, the first associative keyword that comes to mind is undoubtedly "ham." As one of the world's three major hams, Jinhua Ham is both familiar and unfamiliar to Chinese people.
The so-called "familiarity" refers to the fact that everyone has heard of this famous product from Jiangnan, and it frequently appears in the writings of literary gourmands like Wang Zengqi, Liang Shiqiu, and Jin Yong. However, a sense of "unfamiliarity" always lingers—many people are unclear about the difference between "ham" and "ham sausage."
▲ Authentic Jinhua Ham is made from locally produced "Liangtouwu" pigs. Photo/Princess Xingyue, Source/Tuchong Creativity
Authentic Jinhua Ham is made by air-drying and fermenting the hind legs of locally bred "Liangtouwu" pigs (a breed with black heads and tails). These pig legs are moderately sized, have thin skin, small bones, and plump meat, making them ideal for ham production. The preference for "stinky, fermented, moldy, and salty" flavors is an important characteristic of Zhejiang cuisine, and Jinhua Ham, with its fermentation特色, is undoubtedly a classic example.
Hanging a whole pig leg in a cool room is a common sight in many "old Jinhua" households. However, Jinhua natives studying or working elsewhere often feel helpless when teased by friends for gifts—if they were to actually give a whole ham to classmates or colleagues, they would undoubtedly become the most pungent presence on campus or in the office.
▲ Drying hams and cured meats is a local custom in Jinhua. Photo 1 by kouzi, Source/Huituku; Photo 2 by Princess Xingyue, Source/Tuchong Creativity
Jinhua Ham has also had a profound impact on Chinese cuisine. Take, for example, the famous Zhejiang dish "Honey Glazed Ham Cube," whose most important ingredient is a large cube of Jinhua Ham. But beyond such luxurious preparations where ham takes center stage—the soul of Jinhua Ham often lies in its ability to enhance umami. The other two renowned Chinese cuisines, known for their refinement, have masterfully incorporated it: the broth made with Jinhua Ham essentially forms the foundational flavor of Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisines. Thus, even if you think you've never tasted Jinhua Ham, you may have already enjoyed its umami in other culinary traditions.
▲ Jinhua Ham has a huge influence on Chinese cuisine. Photo 1 by Eggplant's Windmill, Source/Huituku; Photo 2 by Manoir Manor, Source/Tuchong Creativity; Photo 3 by One Meter Sunshine Jiayang, Source/Huituku
Cao Xueqin's *Dream of the Red Chamber* can be considered an encyclopedia of ancient aristocratic life, mentioning over ten ham dishes such as Ham Stewed with Pork Hock, Arhat Jumping the Wall, and Ham and Fresh Bamboo Shoot Soup. The broth was so delicious that it once scalared the impatient Jia Baoyu. Zhang Dai of the Ming Dynasty, well-versed in Jiangnan culture, also praised Jinhua Ham: "The ultimate flavor lies in pork, and Jinhua long gained fame. Coral-soft meat, amber-bright fat," making one's mouth water.
▲ Jinhua Crispy Cake and Mishai Pa (Rice Sieve Climb). Photo 1 by Shao Jiaojiao, Photo 2 by Mom of Nuochengzi, Source/Tuchong Creativity
Besides ham, another proud local specialty worthy of the Jinhua name is Jinhua Crispy Cake. These crispy pastries, filled with preserved mustard greens and pork, are fragrant and delicious. There are also collaborative versions filled with Jinhua Ham. Jinhua Soup Dumplings, known as the "Number One Dim Sum in Jinhua," are among the finest southern-style soup dumplings.
Another unique aspect of Jinhua's cuisine is its preference for wheat-based foods. Despite being one of the earliest regions in the world to cultivate rice, Jinhua people are also highly creative with wheat products, earning the title of Zhejiang's version of "Little Shanxi."
In Pujiang County to the north, a snack called "Mishai Pa" (Rice Sieve Climb) is popular. Small dough pieces are rolled and pressed on a rice sieve to create pasta shapes resembling cat ears. In Panzhoujia Village within the same county, "One Noodle" is also popular—pulling dozens of kilograms of flour into a single noodle hundreds of meters long is a regular practice in the village.
▲ Panzhoujia's One Noodle is a well-known delicacy in Jinhua. Photo/VCG
To the south, in Yongkang City, Yongkang Meat Wheat Cakes are popular. Lanxi people enjoy Chicken Egg Cakes, while Dongyang people prefer Womian (Thick Noodle Soup). The variety of wheat-based foods is so diverse that it almost differs every ten li (Chinese mile). The people of Jinhua have carved out a unique "wheat road" with Zhejiang characteristics. This is also related to several large migrations from the north since the Eastern Jin Dynasty, which brought Central Plains wheat traditions to this heartland of Jiangnan.
Why is Jinhua the Fourth Pole of Zhejiang?
The basin, hills, and local folk customs complement each other. While Jinhua excels in these areas, it has not traditionally been a major player in Zhejiang's economic development. As a result, central Zhejiang once lacked a central city, though small and medium-sized cities and towns have continued to evolve through generations.
▲ Jinhua is an important transportation hub in Zhejiang. Photo/VCG
The central location of Zhejiang has made Jinhua an important transportation hub in the province since ancient times. Historically, Jinhua served as a vital passage connecting northern and southern Zhejiang, with evolving transportation and trade methods fostering the rise of various regional centers over time.
During the era of water transport, the Jinhua River and Qujiang River converged in Lanxi to form the Lan River, the largest tributary of the Qiantang River. Leveraging its strategic water and land advantages, Lanxi emerged as central Zhejiang’s most significant industrial city, concentrating 70% of Jinhua’s industry and over 50% of its fiscal revenue. It became Zhejiang’s first county-level city to achieve a fiscal revenue of 100 million yuan and was designated as a county-level city in 1985.
▲ Fishing boats drifting on the Lan River also form a picturesque scene. Photo/VCG
In the railway era, Jinhua became the intersection of the Zhejiang-Jiangxi Railway and the Jinhua-Wenzhou Railway, establishing itself as Zhejiang’s most critical railway hub after the provincial capital, Hangzhou.
▲ The Jinhua-Wenzhou Railway serves as a major artery connecting central and southern Zhejiang. Photo/VCG
The construction of the Jinhua-Wenzhou Railway exemplifies distinctive Zhejiang characteristics: this vital link between central and southern Zhejiang experienced "seven ups and downs" with prolonged discussions and delays. Ultimately, under the leadership of Zhejiang scholar Nan Huai-chin, it was completed and opened in 1998, becoming China’s first joint-stock local railway and pioneering the introduction of foreign capital for local railway construction. Driven by scholars and managed by private forces, it embodies the "Zhejiang Spirit."
Beyond leveraging existing geographical advantages, the people of Jinhua excel at overcoming natural constraints. The thriving small and medium-sized towns here also owe their success to a daring and tenacious spirit of the times—Jinhua’s path to breakthrough is particularly remarkable.
▲ Jinhua at night exudes a metropolitan sense of style. Photo/Muwen
With limited arable land and scarce resources, the confined basin could not sustain such a dense population. Jinhua’s commercial spirit became a beacon of hope breaking through the agrarian era.
As early as the 1960s in Yiwu’s Niansanli, some recognized the potential of small profits and established an initial model of small commodity trade through "exchanging chicken feathers for sugar." This model maintained vibrant vitality even amid criticisms of "speculation" and "capitalist tendencies."
▲ Yiwu International Trade Market. Photo/Tuchong Creative
The subsequent story is well-known: starting from "exchanging chicken feathers for sugar," Yiwu continuously evolved after the reform and opening-up, becoming the world’s largest small commodity trading and distribution center. In Yiwu’s markets, vendors fluent in multiple foreign languages are commonplace, and authentic Central Asian, Turkish, and even Lebanese cuisines can be found in its streets.
▲ Yiwu Santing Road Night Market. Photo/VCG
In 2020, 1,399 Yixin Europe freight trains traversed Eurasia, accounting for 11.3% of all China-Europe freight trains. Nearly 40% of passengers at Yiwu Airport are foreign nationals, a proportion even higher than that of Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen, ranking first among airports in China.
The internationalized Yiwu has become central Zhejiang’s most fantastical modern tale. Its order volumes and goods flow have even become key parameters for studying international situations. During major global events such as U.S. elections and the World Cup, the "Yiwu Index" serves as an important reference.
▲ Yiwu International Trade Market. Photo/Lu Wen
Yiwu may be China’s most renowned county-level city, but other counties, cities, and even towns in Jinhua are also uniquely skilled "martial arts masters."
Hengdian in Dongyang is known as Asia’s Hollywood, where street extras might discuss Stanislavski or Brecht with you. Based in Dongyang, "Noon Sunshine" frequently produces hit TV dramas like "Minning Town," "Nirvana in Fire," and "Parents’ Love." Yongkang’s hardware, Dongyang’s construction industry, and Pujiang’s crystal products all hold leading positions in their respective fields.
▲ Hengdian影视城 (Hengdian Film Studio). Photo/Lu Wen
Even in the challenging internet era, Jinhua continues to excel: among Zhejiang’s top ten counties and cities in cross-border e-commerce, Jinhua accounts for half, with Yiwu and Yongkang ranking first and second. According to data from the State Post Bureau, Jinhua’s robust private enterprises have even surpassed the traditional commercial hub of Guangzhou, securing the top position in national express delivery business volume.
Being a small town's center is no longer sufficient to describe Jinhua today—the "Jinyi Metropolitan Area," without obvious geographical advantages, is becoming the fourth pole of Zhejiang, standing alongside Hangzhou, Ningbo, and Wenzhou as one of the four major metropolitan areas leading Zhejiang in global competition.
In small villages beside the "two-fen fields," some hang hams, some light kiln fires, and some carve out an imagined ideal world. This ideal world:
is the protective moat beside ancient dwellings,
is a handful of rice from the fields,
is乡土建筑 with the aroma of meals,
is a bustling commercial market with mixed sounds,
is the ubiquitous hardware stores in daily life...
This is not just a gift of natural conditions but also a myth of "creating something out of nothing" written by the people of Jinhua, breaking through geographical constraints.
▲ Wanfo Pagoda in downtown Jinhua. Photo/ Muwen
In the heart of Zhejiang, the "Star of China" shines with enough brilliance to illuminate the world!
Text | Someone Who Loves Jinhua
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