Why Should We Thank This "Second City of Hunan" for Our Dragon Boat Festival Holiday?

The Dragon Boat Festival is here, and the annual sweet vs. savory debate is back! Should zongzi be sweet or salty? Where did the Dragon Boat Festival holiday originate? Yueyang in Hunan is likely one of the most authoritative cities on this topic.

Traditional Miluo zongzi are plain, pointed, and eaten dipped in sugar.

The custom of dragon boat racing originates from Miluo, Yueyang.

Yueyang's Miluo is one of the important birthplaces of China's Dragon Boat Festival culture. Every year on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the racing dragon boats become a world-class spectacle. Miluo zongzi, neither sweet nor salty, cleverly resolve the north-south debate.

For most Chinese, Yueyang is a city from high school textbooks, made famous nationwide by the essay "Memorial to Yueyang Tower."

The city from high school textbooks—here she comes.

In the hearts of Chinese people, Yueyang is a famous historical and cultural city, a classic tourist destination.

To Hunanese, Yueyang is the "Northern Gateway of Hunan," embracing Dongting Lake and bordering the Yangtze River, a hub of water and land transportation, and Hunan's second-largest economy.

To Yueyang locals, Yueyang is a hometown full of life and warmth.

Yueyang by Dongting Lake is a great destination for Dragon Boat Festival travel.

Once, Yueyang "connected to Wu Gorge in the north and reached Xiaoxiang in the south," distant from the center yet a gateway for Hunan to the core cultural sphere. Today, Yueyang has become a sub-central city in Hunan. Over 2,500 years, Yueyang's significance in Hunan has never changed.

Why did "Watery Yueyang" emerge from mountainous Hunan?

Hunan is surrounded by mountains on three sides but named after water; Yueyang is named after a mountain but is truly a city of water.

The Dongting basin is rich in wetlands, with developed agriculture since ancient times.

Hunan has no shortage of mountains—the east, south, and west are encircled by endless mountain ranges, leaving only a gap in the north. Four major rivers originating from these mountains rush toward the northern gap, converging in Dongting Lake.

In Yueyang, Dongting Lake meets the Yangtze River. As China's second-largest freshwater lake, Dongting "holds distant mountains and swallows the Yangtze," exuding grandeur. Half of Dongting Lake is cradled by Yueyang.

See how the vast Dongting Lake embraces Yueyang.

How important is Dongting Lake? The "Hu" in Hunan and Hubei refers to Dongting Lake. Dongting is a "rest stop" for the Yangtze—during flood seasons, the Yangtze's water levels surge, and Dongting's immense flood storage capacity saves the riverbanks from disaster.

Dongting Lake is also Hunan's "switch," controlling the flow of water in and out of the province. It is the gateway for Hunanese leaving the province and outsiders entering, serving as Hunan's economic and cultural portal.

The 163-kilometer stretch of the Yangtze River flowing through Hunan lies entirely within Yueyang.

Dongting Lake receives the waters of four rivers and connects with the Yangtze,

"The waters of Dongting are unmatched under heaven"—this saying holds true.

Thus, Yueyang has been known since ancient times as the "Gateway to Northern Hunan."

Nestled against the Yangtze to the north and embracing Dongting Lake, Yueyang gathers the waters of Hunan's three regions and four rivers. Statistics show that within Yueyang, there are 165 lakes and over 280 rivers, with the famous Miluo River flowing almost entirely through the region.

Yueyang is practically a city built on water.

Since ancient times, the Dongting Lake Plain has been renowned for its thriving fisheries and dense rice paddies, earning it the title of "land of fish and rice." During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the Huguang region (Hunan and Hubei) gradually became the granary of the empire, with the saying "When Huguang flourishes, the empire is fed" replacing "When Suhu flourishes, the empire is fed." Yueyang on the Dongting Lake Plain played a pivotal role in this shift.

Serene landscapes, a bustling land of fish and rice.

The people of Yueyang understand water like no other. Junshan Island at the heart of Dongting Lake boasts over 80% forest coverage, while the East Dongting Lake National Nature Reserve is hailed as a "paradise for birds." Five thousand acres of wild lotus flowers make it Asia's largest natural lotus viewing area in summer; in autumn, people wade into the water to dig up lotus roots; and in the cold of winter, a bowl of lotus root soup is the most heartwarming "aquatic delicacy" for Yueyang locals.

When it comes to Junshan's ecology, Yueyang people are brimming with pride.

Water-rich Yueyang—how did it become the heart of mountainous Hunan?

As the gateway to northern Hunan, Yueyang has been a strategic military stronghold since ancient times. Crossing the Yangtze, capturing Yueyang meant seizing Hunan's throat. From there, descending the Xiang River would bring the entire province under control. It could be said: "He who holds Yueyang holds Hunan."

Legend has it that the serpent Ba, which plagued both shores of Dongting, was slain by the archer Houyi.

The serpent's corpse transformed into Mount Tianyue, giving Yueyang its name.

In the late Eastern Han Dynasty, Sun Quan used Yueyang to pin down Liu Bei's forces across Hunan, highlighting its strategic importance. To review troops, Lu Su built the famed Yueyang Tower by Dongting Lake.

This is the closest view of Yueyang Tower.

Yueyang, which "connects to Wu Gorge in the north and reaches Xiaoxiang in the south," was regarded as Hunan's military hub in times of war. In peacetime, it became a gathering place for "exiled officials and wandering poets." With its concentration of luminaries, Yueyang gradually emerged as Hunan's cultural center.

The couplet "Dongting's waters are unmatched under heaven; Yueyang's tower stands peerless in the world" originates here.

The Dragon Boat Festival, celebrated for over 2,000 years, traces its roots to Yueyang's Miluo River. In 278 BCE, Qu Yuan, after a decade of exile in Yueyang, drowned himself in grief and indignation. This once-obscure river, memorialized by Sima Qian, Jia Yi, and others, became a celebrated artery of Chinese culture. From then on, Yueyang became a pilgrimage site for literati across dynasties.

The Quzi Temple was first built by the Miluo River during the Tang Dynasty,

becoming a place of remembrance for scholars throughout history.

Yueyang Tower is the pinnacle of Yueyang's fame. Conservative estimates suggest there are hundreds of poems themed around it. The tower has also popularized Dongting Lake, making both key terms in searches about Yueyang's history.

A tower needs not be tall to gain renown—it takes literary fame. Linfen in Shanxi also has a Yueyang Tower, standing for millennia yet remaining obscure. During the Republic of China era, Hunan and Shanxi disputed the name "Yueyang," ultimately forcing Shanxi's Yueyang County to rename as Anze County, while Hunan retained the name. Fan Zhongyan's celebrated essay *Record of Yueyang Tower* played a decisive role. Ironically, Fan wrote it without ever visiting Yueyang—it was a "picture-inspired composition."

Yueyang Tower ensured Yueyang kept its name.

Junshan Island, described as "a green snail in a silver plate," faces Yueyang Tower from afar. A cultural island woven with myth and history, it is revered in martial arts lore as the headquarters of the Beggars' Sect, the world's top martial alliance. Zhangguying Village, over 500 years old and hailed as "China's No. 1 Village," preserves intact the Jiangnan residential culture of the Ming and Qing dynasties...

Zhangguying Village is a must-visit spot for artsy travelers.

A millennium of literary heritage shaped the romantic side of Xiaoxiang culture, yet Yueyang retains the unyielding Hunan spirit. In modern times, it became a cradle of China's revolution and the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army. Pingjiang, a remote "small place," ignited the Pingjiang Uprising and produced 64 generals of the Republic, ranking among China's top four "general counties." Modern Yueyang epitomizes Hunan grit.

Over 2,500 years of history signify an equal span of cultural legacy—Yueyang's past is also its foundation for the future.

Today's Yueyang: A Jianghu-Forged Second City of Hunan

Among Hunan's 14 prefecture-level regions, Yueyang ranks 8th in area and 6th in population, yet its GDP trails only Changsha, maintaining its status as Hunan's second-largest economy for 20 years!

The Hangrui Dongting Lake Bridge, a stunning landmark on the lake.

Transportation is Yueyang's secret weapon, unlocking its economic potential.

Yueyang's waterway advantages are undeniable. The Yangtze River, a "golden waterway," rivals national rail freight capacity! Over half of Yueyang's raw materials and products move by water. As Hunan's sole riverside city, Yueyang Port handles all aquatic cargo for Hunan, especially for the Changsha-Zhuzhou-Xiangtan region, with 15 million tons transiting annually. Through shipping, Yueyang integrates Hunan into the Yangtze Economic Belt.

Majestic Chenglingji, where Dongting Lake meets the Yangtze.

Yueyang serves Hunan while aspiring to embrace the Yangtze and the world. Its urban core borders neighboring provinces, fostering ties with Yangtze cities. As Hunan's only seaport, Yueyang Port makes it the province's sole international trade gateway.

Chenglingji Port, among the Yangtze's eight deepwater harbors, boasts six national open platforms, a comprehensive bonded zone, and designated import ports for cars, meat, and grain. Open to the world, Chenglingji leads Yueyang in growth and offers locals affordable global goods.

Like Yueyang, Jiangxi's Jiujiang hugs its provincial border.

Waterways are nature's gift; railways reflect Yueyang's grit. In the early Republic, the Yuehan Railway bypassed Yueyang until local scholar Li Chengyu petitioned successfully, steering modernization its way.

Post-1949, the north-south Jingguang Railway naturally included Yueyang, followed by the Beijing-Guangzhou High-Speed Rail and Jinggang'ao Expressway. Rail truly connected Yueyang. With Sanhe Airport opening in 2018, its water-land-air network cements its role as a central China transport hub.

Leveraging this locational edge, "modest" Yueyang dares to build billion-dollar industries.

Logistics thrive, with Yueyang dominating Hunan's shipping. Once a magnet for state-owned enterprises, its petrochemical, energy, and machinery sectors bear locals' sweat. Traditional food industries revived, as Pingjiang now supplies 80% of China's supermarket spicy strips. Global giants like Huawei and New Kinpo, settling in Chenglingji in 2019, herald Yueyang's electronic info-industry boom.

The Yueyang floating solar project showcases the strength of the city's power energy industry.

Of course, Yueyang residents are even more optimistic about their cultural tourism sector. As a historic city with 2,500 years of heritage, Yueyang possesses an innate confidence in its cultural and tourism endeavors, much like "natural beauty that cannot be concealed."

Compared to many major cities in China, Yueyang's downtown area is quite ordinary—no subways, ring roads, or elevated highways. A taxi ride from east to west takes just over ten minutes, and the population is only slightly over a million. Yet, thanks to its rivers, lakes, ports, and roads, Yueyang's economic prowess stands firm in Hunan.

As a premier southern indica rice demonstration zone and Hunan's top aquaculture city, Yueyang boasts abundant fish and rice resources, truly living up to its reputation as a "land of fish and rice."

Fishermen in Yueyang, Hunan, celebrate a bountiful harvest.

For Yueyang locals, no feast is complete without fish. Fire-dried fish, pan-fried in tea oil, exudes rustic charm; salted and smoked fish, cured with camphor leaves, can be enjoyed year-round with gusto.

The Balin Whole Fish Banquet takes Yueyang's fish obsession to the extreme. Over a dozen dishes—from appetizers to main courses and desserts—feature fish, each prepared differently. All 27 fish varieties must be fresh from Dongting Lake, embodying the locals' most authentic pride.

Mention Yueyang, and crayfish and barbecue inevitably come up. In 2021, Hunan ranked third nationally in crayfish production, with Yueyang contributing nearly a third. Yueyang natives proudly brought their lobster restaurants to provincial capital Changsha. Who in Changsha doesn't drool at the mention of Yueyang spicy crayfish tails?

Crayfish—another signature of Yueyang.

But to fully enjoy Yueyang's all-day culinary journey, start with a morning bowl of rice noodles. Locals load theirs with toppings: stir-fried pork with peppers, three-delicacy mix, or slow-cooked beef offal broth... Flat noodles are a must for soaking up flavors. For a refined touch, try Dongting silver fish with egg skin noodles; for boldness, opt for Dongting fish noodles in fresh crucian carp broth. The ultimate indulgence? Xiangyin's camphor-tree-port chili stir-fry topping, priced at 300-400 yuan per pound—absolutely top-tier.

A Yueyang resident's perfect day begins with a bowl of rice noodles.

While Changsha is Hunan's night snack hub, Yueyang is its birthplace. Come summer, the city is engulfed in barbecue. Despite the dominance of Northeastern and Northwestern styles, Hunan locals staunchly champion Yueyang barbecue.

Grilled beef fat captures Yueyang barbecue's essence; crispy-boned grilled crucian carp, springy tendon skewers, and chewy membrane skewers... Whether charcoal-grilled or sizzled on iron plates, everything is fair game.

Yueyang barbecue embodies the city's rugged charm and lively street spirit.

Braised snacks and beer are barbecue's classic partners. Guanyin Pavilion's duck feet and Yueyang Tower beer evoke nostalgia for expats. Memories flood back of Grandma Di under Balin Bridge—laughter, clinking glasses, and the unnoticed roars of Jing-Guang Railway trains just meters away.

Rivers and lakes lend Yueyang its rugged character, grilled into warm, bustling vitality. In this midsized city, human connection shines.

Does this snack-filled portrait of Yueyang stir homesickness?

Hunan's landscapes forge a duality in its people—unyielding fierceness and tender grace, resilience paired with wit—all reflected in Yueyang locals.

With "different dialects every ten miles," Yueyang's counties cling to their linguistic quirks uncompromisingly. Yet daily life is refreshingly unpretentious: pajama-clad grocery runs, pepper-infused tea, mung-bean "tofu skin," and northern-style "wrapped noodles" (huntun)—Yueyang folks play by their own rules.

Historically, Yueyang Tower has burned down and risen anew repeatedly. Unbreakable, it mirrors the city's people—tenacious and unyielding.

Yueyang is a microcosm of Hunan, and Hunan cannot be understood without Yueyang. In Yueyang, one can comprehend Hunan.

Cover photo | Tuchong Creativity