Why Should West Lake Define the Beauty of China?
▲ Hangzhou's Yuhu Bay in the snow. Photo by Han Yang
West Lake is rustic, initially formed to address siltation; West Lake is beautiful, a single snowfall can make it trend nationwide.
▲ Snowscape of Su Causeway, a hot topic across the country. Photo by Zhou Yong
West Lake is very small, only 6.5 square kilometers; West Lake is very famous, known to every Chinese.
West Lake is also delicious, featuring in carp, lotus root starch, water shield, and monosodium glutamate; it also sounds beautiful, as it is a representative work of the band Tong Yang...
▲ Schematic diagram of the core area of West Lake Cultural Landscape, where the Ten Scenes of West Lake and cultural relics are densely distributed. Mapped by Wu Pan
Su Shi said, "There are thirty-six West Lakes in the world," but why even today, when we mention "West Lake," do we still default to Hangzhou's West Lake? In the introductions of many lakes, we often see descriptions like "N times the size of West Lake"—West Lake, surrounded by mountains on three sides, has become a symbol, a unit of measurement for Chinese lakes, and even a representative of Chinese culture!
Who shaped West Lake?
On the shores of today's West Lake, it is almost impossible to find a "primitive" lakeshore. The lake has been transformed into a vast garden, and the label of "artificial lake" is indeed an undeniable part, but West Lake was originally a natural lake.
In ancient times, the Hangzhou Bay area had an inland bay, which was the precursor to West Lake. As sediment accumulated at the river mouth, sandbars gradually formed at the foothills of Baoshi Mountain and Wu Mountain. The north and south sandbars grew and eventually "closed," separating the bay from the Qiantang River and forming an enclosed lake. Such lakes, formed by sandbars enclosing a bay, are called "lagoons."
▲ Qiantang River and West Lake in the same frame, with Qiantang River in the foreground and West Lake in the distance. Photo by Chen Junqing, Image from Tuchong Creativity
The Chinese character "潟" (xì) means saline-alkali land. The lagoon, developed from a bay, was undoubtedly a saltwater lake initially. But if you were to taste West Lake's water today, you would find it not salty—West Lake has long become a freshwater lake.
▲ View of Su Causeway and Baoshi Mountain from south to north. Photo by JasonVon
Throughout history, West Lake has repeatedly undergone marshification. For many lagoons, evolving from a lake into a marsh and eventually disappearing entirely is the natural course of development. However, West Lake defied this natural law, which is related to another major project in Hangzhou.
Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty initiated several major projects during his reign, one of which was the Grand Canal. Before the Sui Dynasty, Hangzhou was just a small county town in the Jiangnan region, with "salty and bitter water, sparse population," far less dazzling than its star neighbors. In the winter of 610 AD, Emperor Yang of the Sui ordered the dredging and widening of the ancient canal south of the Yangtze River.
▲ The Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal passes through Hangzhou. Image from Visual China
The opening of the Grand Canal connected Hangzhou to the "high-speed network" of the vast empire. People and goods from Hangzhou could travel directly to Luoyang and Chang'an in the Central Plains via water routes. This small southeastern city quickly entered a period of development. By the Northern Song Dynasty, even the emperor couldn't help but praise Hangzhou as "a place with beautiful lakes and mountains, the number one prefecture in the southeast."
▲ Gongchen Bridge is the most beautiful spot along the Hangzhou section of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal. Photo by Mo Feng MF, Image from Tuchong Creativity
From an unknown Jiangnan town to the number one prefecture in the southeast, the Grand Canal inadvertently became the "savior" of West Lake. At a critical stage of Hangzhou's rapid development, amid the hesitation between filling the lake or dredging it, two star mayors who were parachuted in ultimately chose to preserve West Lake!
Two star mayors "adorned" West Lake
In 822 AD, Bai Juyi voluntarily requested a transfer and became the governor of Hangzhou. At that time, West Lake had already silted up. After arriving in Hangzhou, the new mayor built dams and stored lake water to facilitate agricultural irrigation. Moreover, he inscribed the "Record of Qiantang Lake Stone" by the West Lake, detailing his philosophy and policies for lake management—Bai Juyi's reconstruction was primarily a livelihood project. After Bai Juyi, the transformation of West Lake became one of the city's most important issues, and the lake gradually gained fame.
▲ The dazzling autumn scenery of Su Causeway at West Lake. Photo by Zhang Qiao
During the Northern Song Dynasty, Su Shi served twice as an official in Hangzhou, inheriting Bai Juyi's approach to lake management and ultimately establishing West Lake's important status as a cultural landscape lake. Su Shi excavated canals connecting West Lake to the Qiantang River and the Grand Canal, built sluice gates, and prevented siltation caused by tidal sediments.
The silt dredged from West Lake was used to build a long causeway in the lake. He also leased the lakeshore to nearby farmers for growing water chestnuts. To ensure better harvests, the farmers took the initiative to clear weeds from the lake, significantly reducing the threat of marshification. Su Shi's ingenious idea of combining dredging with construction became a model for future management.
▲ The beauty of West Lake lies in its ever-changing scenery with every step. Photo by Qing Jian
After the management efforts of Bai Juyi and Su Shi, as well as the integration of poetry, songs, and landscape construction, the cultural status of West Lake was finally established. From then on, no lake in China or even East Asia could surpass the fame of West Lake!
Praise? Criticism? The Unavoidable West Lake
"A renowned southeastern land, an ancient Wu capital, Qiantang has always been prosperous...
With serene lakes and layered peaks, it boasts autumn osmanthus and miles of lotus flowers..."
—"Watching the Tide: A Renowned Southeastern Land" by Liu Yong
▲ During the lotus season at West Lake, enjoy the beauty of "miles of lotus flowers" described by Liu Yong. Photo by Qing Jian
Bai Juyi said, "I never tire of strolling along the eastern lake, where the white sand causeway lies under the shade of green willows." Su Shi described West Lake as "The shimmering water delights in clear weather; The misty mountains marvel in rain." Liu Yong praised West Lake for its "serene lakes and layered peaks, boasting autumn osmanthus and miles of lotus flowers." The continuous endorsement by literary giants and the praises of scholars throughout the ages have shaped the essence of West Lake, making it a symbol of classical Chinese culture.
▲ Small bridges and flowing water are the most "common" scenery at West Lake. Photo/VCG
West Lake has always been a gathering place for cultural luminaries, but it has not been without criticism. Due to its immense fame, "criticism" of West Lake has also become an important part of Chinese cultural history. Interestingly, the two most sharp and famous critics of West Lake in history were both from Zhejiang Province.
Lin Sheng (from Wenzhou, Zhejiang), a poet of the Southern Song Dynasty, was dissatisfied with the Southern Song court's complacency and indulgence in landscapes. He wrote, "Beyond the mountains are more mountains, and beyond the pavilions are more pavilions; when will the singing and dancing at West Lake ever end?" to express his satire and discontent with the obsession for beauty and indulgence in pleasure.
▲ As the sun sets, West Lake enters its night scenery mode. Photo by JasonVon
Lu Xun (from Shaoxing, Zhejiang) also did not have a favorable impression of this provincial capital. According to his close friend Xu Shoushang, Lu Xun only visited West Lake once and was not particularly impressed: "Although it is highly praised by people, he only found it mediocre." Later, when Leifeng Pagoda collapsed, Lu Xun even wrote two articles using the incident to criticize the oppressive autocracy and the lack of innovative spirit in the "rubble field."
Both Lin Sheng and Lu Xun, in their unique historical contexts, saw West Lake as a symbol of hedonistic extravagance or a decaying old system. However, from a broader perspective of Chinese history, West Lake represents a spirit of perseverance, innovation, and progress.
▲ Yue Wang Temple by West Lake. Photo 1 by waiting934, Photo 2 by Barcelona, Photo/tuchong·creativity
Around today's West Lake, one can still find numerous tombs or memorial sites of famous figures. Historically, West Lake was not only China's most famous tourist destination but also possibly the most favored cemetery for celebrities—including Yue Fei, who advocated "serving the country with utmost loyalty"; Yu Qian, who sought "to leave purity in this world"; and Zhang Cangshui, who "also left righteousness between heaven and earth." Amid the daily revelry by West Lake, the unyielding spirit of the Chinese people has always been represented.
▲ There are many ancient temples by the West Lake, which still attract numerous worshippers today. Photo by Qing Jian
In modern times, this area has also been a hub for spreading new ideas and art, such as the Lakeside Poetry Society, Xiling Seal Society, and the National Academy of Art. Even the first draft of the later Constitution of the People's Republic was completed in the courtyard at No. 84 Beishan Street by the West Lake. Hence, the initial draft of New China's first constitution is also known as the "West Lake Draft."
▲ Xiling Seal Society. Photo by Lu Wen
In 1972, U.S. President Nixon's ice-breaking trip also included Hangzhou. Zhou Enlai accompanied him for a boat ride on the West Lake, and it was in the Octagonal Pavilion at Liuzhuang by the lake that the "Sino-U.S. Joint Communiqué" was initialed. This small pavilion by the West Lake became a crucial anchor in the world's geopolitical landscape for the following decades.
From Hangzhou's West Lake to the World's West Lake
In the memory of Hangzhou residents, West Lake is not just a lake but also an integral part of daily life.
▲ West Lake under the sunset, with a boatman returning home. Photo by Li Wenbo
It is the West Lake brand cigarette held between Dad's fingers,
The West Lake brand sewing machine Mom treadled,
The West Lake brand beer friends enjoyed together,
The West Lake brand watch young people longed for,
The West Lake vinegar fish always ordered when treating guests to a meal,
The West Lake brand TV around which the whole family gathered...
▲ West Lake brand sewing machines and alarm clocks are memories of old Hangzhou residents. Photo 1 by Li An Photographer, Photo 2 by czjcj, Image from Huitu Network
As for light bulbs, lotus root starch, tea, monosodium glutamate, and many other daily necessities, there were West Lake brands. In the lives of Hangzhou people, the name "West Lake" is ubiquitous. The name and image of West Lake also appear in more influential contexts.
The layout of "one lake, two causeways, three islands," "cloud-capped hills on three sides and the city on one side," and the tradition of naming the "Ten Scenes of West Lake" have become blueprints mimicked by many gardens, providing an inexhaustible source of inspiration for garden art. Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong were obsessed with touring southern China, and Hangzhou was almost always a mandatory stop. The Qing emperors were not content to merely enjoy the scenery in Hangzhou; they also brought the layout of West Lake back to the north. In many imperial gardens, we can see the imprint of West Lake.
▲ "Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake" and "Lotus in the Breeze at the Crooked Courtyard" are both famous among the Ten Scenes of West Lake. Photo by JasonVon
Among the Forty Scenes of the Old Summer Palace, "Fanghu Shengjing" pays homage to West Lake's "Three Pools Mirroring the Moon," while "Lotus in the Breeze at the Crooked Courtyard" and "Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake" directly borrow the names of West Lake's Ten Scenes. The Yongyou Temple Pagoda in the Chengde Mountain Resort was modeled after the Six Harmonies Pagoda. "Zhi Jing Yun Di" undoubtedly drew inspiration from Bai Causeway and Su Causeway, and "Sunset Glow over the Hammer Peak" was inspired by West Lake's "Twin Peaks Piercing the Clouds."
Of course, the most outstanding emulation of West Lake is the Summer Palace. The layout of its hills, lake, causeways, and islands almost mirrors that of West Lake. Even the six bridges on Su Causeway were replicated as the six bridges on the West Causeway.
▲ Chengde Mountain Resort, modeled after West Lake. Photo by VCG
Not only China's imperial gardens, but also many gardens in East Asia have been profoundly influenced by West Lake. Tokyo's Koishikawa Korakuen Garden, the former Hamarikyu Gardens, Hiroshima's Shukkeien Garden, and Wakayama's Yosuien Garden all bear traces of imitation of West Lake. Many gardens during the Edo period even directly borrowed the names of bridges and scenic spots from West Lake. In Kairakuen Garden, one of Japan's three most famous gardens, a Su Causeway from West Lake spans Senba Lake.
Why are so many East Asian gardens imitating West Lake? Perhaps the evaluation given by UNESCO when designating West Lake as a World Heritage site is apt: in the cultural tradition of landscape design, West Lake is the best embodiment of the ideal of "harmony between heaven and humanity."
▲ The artistic conception of West Lake embodying "harmony between heaven and humanity." Photo by Qing Jian
Starting in 2002, the Hangzhou municipal government dismantled the walls around the lake scenic area, and all major parks were opened to the public free of charge. While other famous scenic spots increased revenue by raising ticket prices, West Lake did the opposite. The annual ticket revenue of over 20 million yuan was lost, but since then, Hangzhou's tourism revenue has increased year after year.
▲ Every frame of West Lake resembles a naturally formed painting. Photo by Qing Jian
Free admission extended visitors' stay time. For every additional 24 hours a tourist stays in Hangzhou, the city's annual comprehensive tourism revenue increases by 10 billion yuan. Losing tens of millions in ticket revenue but gaining tens of billions—this is the "West Lake model" in the tourism industry.
In 2015, renowned scholars such as Shi Yigong and Pan Jianwei proposed the creation of a new type of private research university through social forces. Just a few months later, the West Lake Institute for Advanced Study was established in the West Lake District. In 2018, a全新的 research university focusing on science, medicine, and engineering was founded—this is "West Lake University" in the field of science and education.
▲ West Lake is part of the daily life of Hangzhou residents. Photo by Li Wenbo
From a lagoon by the Qiantang River to a World Heritage site, from the "West Lake model" to "West Lake University," the essence of West Lake has been continuously enriched. West Lake is a model of classical Chinese aesthetics, a source of East Asian garden art, the literary, aesthetic, and political ideal pursued by scholars and officials, and also the ever-innovating, enterprising, and flowing spirit of the times!
▲ The autumn scenery of Yanggong Causeway is unforgettable. Photo by Wu Shengbo
Sima Guang, *Zizhi Tongjian: Sui Ji Wu*
Mao Yiyue, Liu Xiaoming, *Analysis of the Imitation of West Lake in the Chengde Mountain Resort*
To appreciate the beauty of West Lake, please click "Wow"