At China's Top Mountain, Savor the Pungent Fish and Sip the Divine Tea

Having returned from the Five Sacred Mountains, one need not look at other mountains; having returned from Huangshan, one need not look at the Five Sacred Mountains.

This is likely a slogan that the vast majority of Chinese people have heard.

During this spring tea season, the Tea Explorer launched the "Authentic Spring Flavors: Exploring Chinese Tea" series, and this stop takes us to Huangshan, Anhui, to seek the most authentic Huangshan Maofeng tea at its origin.

Huangshan Maofeng, with its silver-tipped buds resembling mountain peaks, boasts an elegant appearance.

If one word were to summarize the characteristics of Huangshan Maofeng, it would undoubtedly be:

The reason "elegance" is used to describe Huangshan Maofeng lies not only in its graceful form with silver-tipped buds resembling peaks but also in the picturesque landscapes of its birthplace.

The tea liquor of Maofeng is clear, carrying a tender, sweet aroma.

As our car, as Yu Dafu once described, "learned to tunnel like a pangolin or a fairy's earth-traveling," we delved into tea gardens nestled deep in the mountains, with green hills and clear waters flashing past like slides outside the window.

The elegance of the landscapes forms the foundation of Huangshan Maofeng. Huangshan, a city now famous for its mountains, once bore a more resounding name in ancient times: Huizhou.

Where is my homeland as the sun sets? The misty river fills my heart with sorrow.

The Xin'an River, upstream of Qiandao Lake, is the mother river of Huizhou.

The Huizhou aesthetic of white walls and black tiles in its alleys, spread nationwide by the wealthy Huizhou merchants of the Ming and Qing dynasties, became an enduring memory of Huizhou for the world.

Huangshan City, built upon ancient Huizhou, presents the Greeting Pine and Huangshan Maofeng as its most dazzling calling cards, offering a cup of welcoming tea to visitors from all corners of the globe, showcasing Chinese hospitality.

Historically, Huizhou maintained a structure of one prefecture and six counties for a long time.

Later, Wuyuan County was transferred to Shangrao, Jiangxi, and Jixi County was merged into Xuancheng, Anhui.

The remaining areas largely constitute today's Huangshan City.

Surrounded by mountains yet connected by waterways, in the tales of ancient Huizhou, mountains and rivers were the absolute protagonists.

We often say, "Good tea comes from high mountains and misty clouds," but for Huangshan, "Good tea comes from famous mountains and scenic landscapes" is even more fitting.

The mist-shrouded Huangshan mountain range provides the ideal environment for Huangshan Maofeng to thrive.

Though China has many famous mountains, few are as directly and closely linked to traditional renowned teas as Huangshan, with Huangshan Maofeng claiming one such spot. You may not have heard of Maofeng, but you must have heard of Huangshan.

The majestic beauty of Huangshan needs no elaboration, as the saying goes, "After returning from the Five Great Mountains, one need not see other mountains; after returning from Huangshan, one need not see the Five Great Mountains." According to the "Brief Annals of Huizhou Region," the predecessor of Huangshan City, Huizhou, had 10,578 square kilometers of mountains and hills, accounting for a full 79% of its total area (13,403 square kilometers). These crisscrossing mountain ranges, which form the backbone of Huizhou, are all extensions of Huangshan.

With its extraordinary peaks and stunning scenery, Huangshan truly lives up to its reputation as "the mountain that renders the Five Great Mountains unworthy of a visit."

Ming Dynasty scholar Xu Cishu remarked in "Tea Commentary": "Famous mountains under heaven must produce divine herbs; the warm climate south of the Yangtze makes it uniquely suitable for tea." Japanese Zen master Eisai also wrote in "Kissa Yōjōki": "Tea from Huangshan is an elixir for health and a wondrous method for longevity." In the eyes of the ancients, the mist-shrouded Huangshan was akin to an immortal's abode, and the tea grown there carried an air of the divine.

In the dense forests of mountainous regions above 400 meters in elevation, the drastic temperature difference between day and night aids the accumulation of flavor compounds in tea leaves, while the shade from clouds and trees protects them from direct sunlight, creating an ideal environment for tea cultivation.

In spring, the tea gardens and distant mountains complement each other beautifully.

As early as the late Ming Dynasty, Huangshan Cloud Mist Tea from Yungu Temple had already gained fame, with Jiang Chengyun praising it as "the finest among teas" in "Su Hu Bian Lu." This was the precursor to Huangshan Maofeng.

In Chinese aesthetics, mountains and water are inseparable companions. Driving along Huangshan’s winding mountain roads, one side is always flanked by mountains, the other by water. The streams originating from these mountains have carved out countless basins and valleys, providing space for the ancient towns and villages where generations of Huizhou people have lived.

In Hongcun, the South Lake at the village entrance serves as the entire village’s water outlet.

Though nestled among mountains, Huangshan is not isolated thanks to its flowing waters, which have helped Huangshan Maofeng tea reach markets nationwide. Tunxi, located along the Xin’an River, had already become a renowned tea hub by the Ming Dynasty.

In Fuxi Township, the core production area of Huangshan Maofeng, the crystal-clear streams flowing through the tea mountains converge into the Xin’an River, eventually reaching Qiandao Lake and becoming the source of Nongfu Spring mineral water.

The pristine mountain streams infuse the tea gardens with vibrant energy.

Along the roads leading to the tea gardens, signs proclaim Huangshan City’s ambition to "become the nation’s first pesticide-free tea region." The city enforces unified management of agricultural inputs like fertilizers and has proposed banning chemical pesticides in tea gardens, replacing them with green pest control methods such as physical prevention. For instance, the yellow sticky traps scattered throughout the tea gardens serve as a defense against pests.

Using yellow sticky traps instead of chemical pesticides for physical pest control.

Growing amidst these lush mountains and clear waters, the beauty of nature remains the unchanging essence of Huangshan Maofeng.

It is the century-old stage pioneered by the "Huizhou Camels."

The towering horse-head walls, roofs paved with dark blue tiles—this unique Huizhou aesthetic, combined with the winding streams and bridges around the houses, fulfills all the idyllic fantasies of the Jiangnan water towns. Yet, despite being part of the Jiangnan region, Huangshan’s cuisine stands out as distinctly different.

In Huizhou, villages built along the water are like scattered pearls nestled deep in the mountains.

The saltiness that even northerners describe as "overturned salt jars" and the spiciness reminiscent of Jiangxi cuisine make Huangshan dishes a "bold flavor" that clashes with the delicate tastes typical of Jiangnan. Even a simple stir-fried green vegetable embraces the essence of "generous oil in the wok" to the extreme.

When it comes to the star dishes of Huangshan cuisine, stinky mandarin fish and hairy tofu undoubtedly take center stage. In truth, the origin of these fermented foods with their distinctive odors boils down to four words: inconvenient transportation.

The pungent aroma of fermentation cannot mask the fresh, savory taste of stinky mandarin fish.

Photo/Fang Thomas; Wu Xuewen

In ancient times, Huizhou's poor transportation meant that mandarin fish from the Yangtze River would spoil after seven or eight days en route. Yet, heavy salting and spicing transformed the fermented fish into a dish with a unique umami flavor from protein breakdown. Similarly, tofu covered in seemingly alarming white mold, when fried, turned as delicate and rich as cheese under the catalysis of fungi.

The deliciousness of these foods was secondary; more importantly, they provided methods to extend shelf life, like knife-cut cured meat, and a magical imagination to turn decay into wonder in this remote, mountain-locked region.

Hairy tofu, covered in white mold, transforms into a delicacy on the plates of Huangshan locals after frying.

Photo/Fang Thomas; Wu Xuewen

Compared to equally prosperous commercial hubs like Suzhou and Yangzhou, Huizhou—with its "70% mountains, 10% water, and 20% farmland"—was never truly wealthy at heart. Locals often joked, "A cursed past life, born in Huizhou. At thirteen or fourteen, tossed out to roam," reflecting this reality.

These isolating mountains brought information闭塞 and material scarcity, forcing Huizhou people to venture out as merchants. Harsh conditions honed their resilience and吃苦 spirit, earning them the nickname "Huizhou camels" as they built a商业 empire.

The Tangyue Archway Complex in Shexian County immortalizes the 300-year dominance of Huizhou merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

The great educator Tao Xingzhi, a native of Shexian, once said: Tea is our hometown's local treasure. In商业 exchanges, nothing conveys sincerity better than serving guests with hometown specialties.

Perhaps seizing this opportunity, Xie Zheng'an, a漕溪 merchant whose family fortune was wiped out during the Taiping Rebellion in the咸丰 era, entered the tea trade and founded Xie Yu Da Tea in Shanghai. In 1875, his newly created Huangshan Maofeng sold out instantly, making its name renowned across Shanghai.

The seal of Xie Yu Da Tea bears witness to the origin of Huangshan Maofeng.

Huizhou merchants, traversing the world, "brought goods" for their homeland with实力. After Xie Yu Da, famed Beijing tea houses like Zhang Yi Yuan and Wu Yu Tai emerged—their founders also hailed from Shexian.

What does the metamorphosis from fresh leaves to dry tea signify?

Though Huangshan Maofeng's production has long been industrialized,

every fresh leaf must still be hand-picked by tea harvesters.

Perhaps it’s the endless hours of labor by tea-roasting workers, bent over scorching woks for over ten hours daily.

Yet, in the modernization of Huangshan Maofeng, this narrative feels more aligned with our era.

At 7 PM, when urban office workers clock out, the谢裕大漕溪茶厂 lights up with machines humming—Huangshan Maofeng production just begins.

During the spring tea season, assembly-line workers often toil late into the night.

Today, Huangshan Maofeng's production achieves full mechanization. Three 100-meter-long production lines coil like steel dragons in the factory, processing 75,000 kg of fresh leaves daily—a quantum leap from manual roasting's mere 2-3 kg per worker.

Traditional tea-frying techniques rely on the extensive experience accumulated by masters in every step of tea production, yet mastering such skills has never been easy. The spring tea season lasts only a month each year, and training a qualified tea-frying master invariably requires years of dedication.

On this advanced production line, which won the 2021 National Science and Technology Progress Second Prize, temperature data from fixation to baking is displayed clearly on electronic screens.

At Xieyuda Caoxi Tea Factory, temperature information for each production stage is visible on the screens.

Local tea farmer Sister Gui and her husband manage their family's tea garden spanning over a dozen acres. They start picking tea at 3 a.m. and work until 6 p.m. with little rest. At noon, Sister Gui rides her e-bike to the tea collection point to sell their harvest. After a brief chat, she hurries back to relieve her husband, who is still laboring on the mountain.

From dawn to midnight, from picking to processing, countless people work in different roles, interlocking like gears to assemble this sleepless production line during the spring tea season.

Tea pickers and collectors each fulfill their roles in this spring tea season.

Beyond leading tea companies like Xieyuda, countless small but refined tea farms thrive in this origin region. At Huibainian Tea Factory in Fuxi Township, Wang Hongshu, the head with nearly 40 years of expertise in Huangshan Maofeng tea-making, is a man of few words but knows every step like the back of his hand.

Wang Hongshu meticulously selects tea leaves with unwavering precision.

Shaping is a crucial step in crafting Huangshan Maofeng's form. As the name "Maofeng" (literally "Fur Peak") suggests, the tea should have an elegant, peak-like appearance. A representative of China's baked green tea, Huangshan Maofeng undergoes shaping or light rolling during processing, resulting in naturally shaped buds and leaves, with the dried tea exhibiting a refined look. The improved shaping machine developed by Wang Hongshu produces tightly wrapped leaves with a more natural appearance.

Unlike the robust roasted aroma of pan-fired green teas like West Lake Longjing, the baking process gives Huangshan Maofeng a pure and delicate flavor.

With technological progress, machines replacing manual labor is an inevitable trend. Yet what remains unchanged is the artisans' relentless pursuit of perfecting tea quality.

Strict control during production reflects the spirit of craftsmanship.

Beyond these high-profile core production areas, Huangshan Maofeng takes on a different character.

On the way to Luosikeng in She County, road construction forced us to abandon our vehicle and climb over jagged rocks on foot. After winding through the mountain path for over ten minutes, the view suddenly opened up to reveal a secluded village with crisscrossing paths and the sounds of chickens and dogs.

Surrounded by mountains, Luosikeng feels like a hidden corner untouched by the outside world.

Seventy-five-year-old Wu Changgen, still spry and looking barely over 60, picks tea on the mountain. Speaking a distinct Anqing dialect unlike the local Huangshan accent, he explains that his village relocated to these remote mountains during the late Qing Dynasty, with generations sustaining themselves by growing and selling tea. For a moment, we felt as if we had stepped into a "Peach Blossom Spring," oblivious to the outside world.

Wu Changgen, who makes a living picking and selling tea, also crafts tea for himself every year.

As evening falls and cooking smoke rises from households, Luosikeng's tea workshops begin production. The small room, barely over ten square meters, is fully equipped for fixation to baking. Unlike gas-heated production lines, tea maker Cheng Minxuan preserves the charcoal-fired fixation technique from the 1980s and 1990s, infusing the tea with a hint of charcoal aroma and a nostalgic charm.

Charcoal fixation lends Huangshan Maofeng its distinctive smoky fragrance.

Showcasing Huangshan Maofeng to the world.

In recent years, we are delighted to see that young people in China today are becoming increasingly interested in tea. This is not only a classic revival or bold innovation of lifestyle habits but also a reform and revival of traditional tea culture.

Traditional famous teas + innovative cup designs bring a new aesthetic experience to tea beverages.

Take primary and secondary school students as an example. When they discover that the tea they once perceived as "bitter" has become a sweet, delicious, and trendy drink in their hands, and when the once obscure traditional Chinese tea culture and knowledge are simplified into fun and easy-to-understand content, their impression of Chinese tea enters a whole new dimension of understanding.

The Xie Yuda Tea Culture Museum is the first tea museum in Anhui.

At the Xie Yuda Tea Culture Museum in Huangshan, 40,000 to 50,000 primary and secondary school students participate in tea culture study programs every year. In the intangible cultural heritage tea-making experience area, they can personally take part in the entire production process of Huangshan Maofeng tea, from picking to drying, following traditional techniques.

Students from across the country learn the traditional craftsmanship of Huangshan Maofeng at the museum.

Near famous tourist destinations like Huangshan, Xidi, and Hongcun, Huangshan's tea companies have set up numerous tea shops to introduce and share China's excellent tea culture with more domestic and international visitors.

Drinking a cup of locally distinctive tea has become a new trend for check-ins at various tourist attractions.

From tea production to sales, and the increasingly vibrant study-tour cultural industry, a grand scene integrating primary, secondary, and tertiary industries is slowly unfolding—this is the opening of Huangshan Maofeng's "century-old showcase."

Even international students from different countries come to Huangshan to experience Chinese tea culture. Museum director Xu Jimiao shared that a student from Uzbekistan, whose hometown Samarkand was a key hub on the Silk Road, found Chinese tea an indispensable part of local life. Yet, upon arriving in China, he was puzzled: in the birthplace of tea, the Chinese never seemed to add sugar to their tea.

In fact, throughout Chinese history, tea-drinking methods have never been static. From the Tang Dynasty's boiled tea, to the Song Dynasty's whipped tea, to the Ming Dynasty's steeped tea, our ways of drinking tea have continuously evolved. What remains unchanged, however, is the deep-rooted love for tea.

The elegant Huangshan Maofeng showcases Chinese culture.

Tea can serve as a refined spiritual enjoyment, akin to music, chess, calligraphy, painting, poetry, and wine, while also blending into daily life as a necessity, like firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, and tea. Tea, shared by all, freely shifts between identities and roles.

Looking further back, Chinese tea once traveled overseas along the ancient Silk Road, becoming the world's coveted "mysterious oriental leaf." Today, international students from all corners of the globe are united by tea, building bridges of communication that carry Chinese tea culture to distant lands.

The 1,300-year-old Welcoming Pine represents the hospitable spirit of the Huangshan people.

The wide-armed Welcoming Pine greets millions of visitors annually. Tea, embodying Chinese hospitality, naturally becomes an indispensable element of Huangshan culture. Thus, Huangshan has become an open-air tea museum—a key city on the Ancient Tea Route and a bridgehead for Chinese tea to speak to the world.

Showcasing China's finest tea, Huangshan Maofeng takes the lead!

The Tea Explorer heads to the tea mountains to bring you premium tea!

Simply leave a comment about spring tea in the comments section of "Authentic Tea Journey"—share your thoughts on spring tea, recommend your hometown's spring tea, or recount your spring tea travel experiences. Seven days after this article's publication, we will select five insightful and engaging comments, and the lucky winners will receive a gift of "Huangshan Maofeng" provided by Xie Yuda!

The Huangshan Maofeng offered this time is authentic core-origin tea from Xie Yuda's Caoxi Tea Factory in the heart of Huangshan Maofeng's production area. Meanwhile, "Authentic Tea Journey" has found the first cup of fresh spring tea and exciting content in its final stop—Hangzhou—coming soon. Stay tuned!

Editor | Ou Hantian, Fei Tianyimian

Planner & Reviewer | Ou Hantian

Cover Photo | Fang Tuomasi

Featured Image Photo | Fang Tuomasi

Acknowledgments | Huangshan Tea Masters Zheng Jianxin, Cheng Minxuan

Shooting Location Support | Huangshan Yunyou Tea House