China's BBQ Capital Isn't in Xinjiang or Shandong!

Seeing Zibo barbecue become so wildly popular, some people offer blessings, while others feel envy; some are puzzled, and some even jealous... But one thing is certain: Jinzhou in Liaoning, 700 kilometers away from Zibo, was the first to grow restless.

"Zibo barbecue is also pretty good?" Jinzhou locals always speak with a rising inflection, giving the illusion of "questioning everything," but when they say this, the skepticism is unmistakable. After all, many restaurants across China now bearing the name "Zibo barbecue" were called "Jinzhou barbecue" just a month ago.

Linghe District in Jinzhou, the so-called "longest night market in Asia."

Without a doubt, among the many barbecue cities in Northeast China, Jinzhou is the undisputed big brother. Here, barbecue is no longer just a late-night snack—it has risen to the level of an intangible cultural heritage, a serious craft and philosophy of life. The aroma of skewers and charcoal has long seeped into the city's very bones. When a Jinzhou native says they "grew up eating barbecue," it’s often not an exaggeration.

Yet, like all mainland cities passionate about barbecue, behind the sizzling grills, bustling skewer joints, cases of beer, and nights of revelry lies the rise and fall of old industrial bases, an abundance of mountain and sea delicacies, echoes of cultural clashes and fusion, and the vibrant flesh and blood of an ancient city.

You can certainly make a special trip to Jinzhou just for the barbecue. But Jinzhou is far more than just barbecue.

The narrow Liaoxi Corridor, nearly 200 kilometers long, connects the sea to the east and mountains to the west, threading together the North China and Northeast Plains. Whether for central dynasties seeking control over the Northeast or nomadic tribes from the Northeast aiming to advance into the Central Plains, this corridor has always been the vital lifeline.

If Shanhaiguan, guarding the southern entrance of the Liaoxi Corridor, is the gateway to the Northeast, then Jinzhou, commanding the corridor's northern end, is undeniably the throat of the region. Whether during ancient central regimes' campaigns against the Wuhuan and Goguryeo or the prolonged military struggles in the Northeast during the Ming-Qing transition, Jinzhou's fate has always swayed the entire Northeast's situation.

Today, though the clamor of battle has long faded into history, this strategic position has endowed Jinzhou with an exceptionally rare combination of mountainous, marine, and plains geography. This has shaped the city's uniquely diverse and distinctive character.

Yes, despite its seemingly inland vibe, Jinzhou actually boasts a coastline—long, beautiful, and not far from the city center. Beyond a coastal grassland dubbed "Jinzhou's Little Iceland," the most famous seaside attraction is Bijia Mountain. This island near the shore features intriguing historical relics, but its true marvel is a natural tidal causeway that appears and disappears with the tides—a breathtaking wonder of nature.

The tidal causeway connecting Bijia Mountain to the mainland.

Compared to the sea, Jinzhou's mountains hold even deeper significance. The most famous among them is Yiwulü Mountain, a name derived from ancient Dongyi language. As early as the Zhou Dynasty, it was revered as the guardian mountain of the Northeast's Youzhou region. By the Sui Dynasty, it had become one of China's four "guardian mountains," a legacy reflected in the name of Beizhen City, a county-level city under Jinzhou's jurisdiction.

To this day, you can still find an ancient temple at the foot of Yiwulü Mountain—Beizhen Temple, the most majestic and well-preserved mountain god temple in China. Without exaggeration, this mountain elevates Jinzhou's cultural prestige by several notches.

Jinzhou's rise as a city began during the Liao Dynasty. The Khitan royalty also held Yiwulü Mountain in high esteem, with many notable figures from the Yelü clan closely tied to it. Today, the mountain still hosts numerous imperial tombs of the Liao Dynasty. This royal patronage makes Jinzhou a rare exception in the Northeast, where few pre-Ming ancient structures survive.

In Yi County, under Jinzhou's administration, stands a grand and ancient temple that starkly contrasts with the modest vibe of the small county town. This is the Fengguo Temple of the Khitan Liao Dynasty, whose main hall is one of China's eight surviving "Liao-era architectural masterpieces." The hall's awe-inspiring scale and layout bridge Tang and Liao-Jin styles, earning it the title of "peerless national treasure" from Liang Sicheng. Coupled with the world's oldest and largest collection of painted clay Buddhist statues, Fengguo Temple is undoubtedly the pinnacle of ancient architecture in the Northeast—a must-visit for enthusiasts of Chinese heritage.

By the Ming Dynasty, Jinzhou's military significance grew even more pronounced. The mountains around Jinzhou still bear sections of the Ming-era Great Wall, and the city itself is home to the Jade Buddha Temple, allegedly built by Ming general Yuan Chonghuan. Countless legendary battles from the Ming-Qing transition also unfolded here.

The tug-of-war between the Ming court and the Manchus compressed much of the Northeast's civilian population into the Jinzhou area. As a result, while the Northeast's demographics underwent drastic changes over the past 300 years due to war, restrictions, and migrations like the "Chuang Guandong," Jinzhou's population structure remained relatively stable.

The Wanfo Grottoes in Jinzhou, dating back to the Northern Wei Dynasty,

are the most important grotto complex in Northeast China.

This stability is evident in the local dialect: Jinzhou's speech is unique within Northeastern Mandarin, not only for its comically skeptical rising inflection but also for preserving many archaic Chinese words. In short, when it comes to ancient urban culture in the Northeast, Jinzhou stands in a league of its own.

Time moved into the modern era. Due to its crucial geographical location, Jinzhou naturally became a major railway hub in Northeast China after the construction of railroads.

The Jinzhou Railway Bureau was once one of the highest-level railway bureaus in China. In the city, the railway system was famously dubbed "Half the City of Iron," with its employees enjoying unparalleled privileges and prestige. The development of the railways also gave rise to Jinzhou's first viral food—Goubangzi Smoked Chicken. Carried by the green trains traveling north and south, Goubangzi Smoked Chicken gained fame both inside and outside Shanhaiguan. Even today, though the green trains have long been phased out, the memories of youthful days spent nibbling on smoked chicken with cheap liquor in hard-seat carriages remain etched in the minds of many elders.

This extremely convenient transportation, combined with the functional positioning of Northeast China in modern times, also made Jinzhou a heavy industrial base—a common story in the region. But interestingly, whether it's Zibo, Xuzhou, Hegang, or Jinzhou, almost all cities now famous for barbecue share the same heavy industrial background. Jinzhou's case is the most typical among them.

It is certain that mainland Chinese residents first tasted barbecue thanks to Xinjiang skewer masters who traveled across the country during the early days of reform and opening-up. This popular and novel delicacy happened to meet a group of young laborers in cities like Jinzhou, who were forced to find their own way to make a living due to the era's upheavals. Barbecue, which required no lengthy apprenticeship or highly skilled techniques—just hard work and quick wits—became a livelihood for many.

Objectively, the workers' dexterity honed in factories and the abundant scrap materials from closed factories also provided many conveniences for their barbecue businesses. For instance, there was no need to buy grills—they could just pick up some scrap metal from the factories and weld their own. Most amusingly, it's said that the defunct bicycle factories left behind large quantities of discarded spokes, which became the original "metal skewers" for Jinzhou barbecue. Though this claim needs verification, it reveals the hidden yet close connection between barbecue and heavy industry.

Metal skewers, lamb skewers, garlic chili paste, and whole cloves of garlic.

Photo / Blue Sun TNT, Image / Tuchong Creative

On a broader and deeper level, Jinzhou's geographical environment also provided a solid material foundation for its rise as a barbecue hub. West of the mountains in western Jinzhou lies traditional pastoral land, home to Mongolian communities. This is why, though Jinzhou barbecue now boasts "anything can be grilled," its most classic item remains the simplest yet most authentic lamb skewers.

At the same time, Jinzhou is rich in seafood, boasting everything from clams and conches to mantis shrimp. Seafood like squid and flatfish naturally became staples on today's Jinzhou barbecue menu. Additionally, Hongluoxian—now part of Huludao but long under Jinzhou's jurisdiction—produces a paper-thin, famously delicious "Jinzhou dried tofu," which has been incorporated into the local barbecue scene as the star vegetarian dish. In short, unique geography and culinary traditions have given Jinzhou barbecue an incredibly wide range of ingredients, laying a solid foundation for its current dominance.

By the turn of the century, Jinzhou had become a barbecue hub where "every village had fires, every household had smoke." Half the city grilled, the other half ate. As a unique urban culinary tradition, Jinzhou barbecue gradually evolved toward diversity, refinement, and professionalism.

Today, outside government-approved large barbecue restaurants in Jinzhou, you'll find a prominent stone plaque officially inscribed with "Jinzhou Barbecue." These restaurants are highly innovative, grilling everything from "big sword" (pig spleen) and beef marrow to pig gum meat and icicles—perfect for adventurous eaters. Many of these establishments also offer training programs, attracting aspiring barbecue entrepreneurs from across the country to learn the craft. After all, Jinzhou barbecue has developed a mature system covering ingredients, cutting, skewering, grilling techniques, sauces, and dips.

However, the true essence of Jinzhou barbecue lies in its neighborhood joints, usually named after their specialty plus the owner's surname—like "Chicken Feet Liu" or "Rib Zhang." These are small, no-frills eateries with limited menus, but every dish is a masterpiece honed by the owner's lifelong dedication. Whether it's rib skewers with crunchy cartilage, crispy and juicy chicken offal, or addictive chicken heads and feet, many items found elsewhere only reveal their original brilliance in Jinzhou.

So, as barbecue now propels Zibo to fame, Jinzhou—a true barbecue king—can't help but feel a bit anxious. After all, both cities are just a 2.5-hour high-speed train ride from Beijing, and in terms of quality, neither lags behind. But the ebb and flow of trends is mysterious and unpredictable. While Jinzhou remains relatively undiscovered, seize the chance to enjoy its skewers, sea breeze, and historic sites. With its strengths, Jinzhou has every opportunity to replicate Zibo's success.

Unsourced images | Visual China

This article is original content from [Di Dao Feng Wu]