China's First Chili-Loving Province: A Year of Nonstop Fiery Delights!

In Guizhou, chili peppers are called "sea peppers."

The word "sea" reveals their origin—this fiery king of seasonings that has "burned" its way across dining tables nationwide was indeed an overseas import.

Hand-picked chili peppers preserve their flavor to the fullest.

Their homeland is in the Americas, and they arrived in China via maritime trade routes during the Ming Dynasty, first landing in Zhejiang and Fujian. Yet, for a long century, the Chinese regarded them only as ornamental plants or medicinal herbs. It wasn’t until the 60th year of the Kangxi reign that the local chronicles of Sizhou (today’s northeastern Guizhou) finally recorded: "Sea peppers, commonly known as ‘spicy fire,’ are used by the local Miao people as a substitute for salt."

Yes, the first stop for chili peppers on Chinese dining tables was none other than Guizhou.

Guizhou’s chili peppers form an endless red ocean.

Photo by Chen Weihong

Historically salt-deficient, Guizhou warmly embraced this high-yield seasoning, nurturing it over four centuries into a dazzling local specialty.

Today, Guizhou’s chili peppers have truly "made a splash." In 2021, the province cultivated 5.71 million acres of chili peppers, accounting for 1/10 of the global planting area, with a yield of 7.87 million tons—over one-third of the national total!

Chili peppers have become a source of pride for Guizhou people, who share a bond of hardship with them, having known them in humble beginnings.

They rely on chili peppers for every meal, morning to night, yet their love isn’t about sheer brutality or reducing anyone to tears. Roasting, frying, grinding, fermenting—a single chili pepper can be prepared in a hundred ways to unleash its unique aroma to the fullest. Only by visiting Guizhou can you discover how chili peppers can be so diversely fragrant and what it truly means to be a "master of spice."

Pickled fish, grilled potato skins, roasted eggs—none can do without chili peppers.

How did chili peppers and Guizhou people become such a "match made in heaven"?

Why can chili peppers become addictive?

A common answer is: The slight burning pain from spiciness stimulates the brain to release endorphins, which relieve pain, making people happier and unable to stop eating. While scientifically sound, this explanation feels a bit lazy, as if chili peppers have no flavor beyond "spiciness."

Chili peppers are far more than just "spicy."

Come to Guizhou, and you’ll gain a fresh perspective on the questions above—because the chili peppers here—

Their aroma rushes eagerly into your nostrils.

Photo by Chen Weihong

Spicy, yet not unbearable, nor so harsh that it scorches your throat. Instead, they carry a rich, oily fragrance, with a subtle sweetness that even high-heat frying can’t mask. Hold a dried chili in your hand, and its uniqueness becomes clear: glossy, weighty, radiantly red as if glowing, and with an aroma so distinctive it’s unforgettable.

The unique flavor comes from abundant crude fat, as well as proteins, sugars, and various aromatic substances in the dry matter. Guizhou chili peppers rank among the top in the nation in these metrics, so when locals say, "Only chili peppers grown here are truly fragrant," it’s far from blind confidence.

Only here can you find chili peppers so glossy and vibrantly red.

Guizhou boasts towering mountains, deep valleys, dense forests, winding rivers, a mild climate, synchronized rain and heat, and the world’s most typical and complex karst terrain—paired with mineral-rich, highly hydrophobic soil. Chili peppers thrive in mountainous environments, and it’s hard to find another place in China that offers such perfectly suited growing conditions for this far-flung guest.

However, Guizhou chili peppers’ exceptional fragrance also stems from the deep affection encapsulated in the phrase "mutual devotion."

In Shanbao Village, Zunyi, acres of chili fields stretch endlessly.

Let’s emphasize again: Ancient Guizhou suffered from severe salt shortages. Unlike Sichuan or Hunan, where condiments were plentiful, Guizhou people treasured chili peppers dearly. Elsewhere, chilies were mere seasoning accents, adding spice to dishes; here, 400 years ago, locals saw their boundless aromatic potential and resolved to use them as salt and MSG.

As the most essential condiment, they couldn’t just chase heat. Farmers naturally selected chilies with moderate spiciness, rich fragrance, and appetizing qualities to cultivate. Today’s irresistible Guizhou chilies are the result of generations of diligent, ingenious locals nurturing them.

In Shanbao Village’s chili fields, farmers are hard at work.

The mountainous terrain—"80% mountains, 10% water, 10% farmland"—often brought challenges like scarce arable land and poor transportation, but with chilies, it became an advantage. These crops don’t need vast fields; they thrive in rugged hills. Planted anywhere, they flourish, spreading across mountain nooks and evolving into countless varieties with distinct flavors and forms due to microclimates.

Centuries later, natural barriers no longer hinder exchange, and people are thrilled to discover—

Wow, Guizhou’s mountains are a chili treasure trove!

Rich varieties, well-preserved! There are over 3,500 wild and cultivated chili germplasms, a number still growing as researchers collect more. High-quality cultivars with great flavor and yield abound: 10 Guizhou chilies have geographical indication protection, the most nationwide. Take Huaxi Oxhorn Pepper, fragrant as "MSG among chilies"; Suiyang Bullethead, plump and refreshing; or Zunyi Chaotian Pepper, ranked China’s top chili—each legendary, their mere names enough to make mouths water.

Bead peppers, strip peppers, thread peppers—Guizhou chilies come in countless shapes.

How many enchanting faces can a single chili plant wear?

With such abundant supply, Guizhou’s chili cuisine is masterful: nuanced, diverse, transforming one spice into endless taste experiences. Even if you’re from Sichuan, Hunan, or other spice hubs, Guizhou always surprises.

Even the Gelao people’s moss tea feast isn’t complete without chilies.

Photo by Chen Qingquan

To Guizhou locals, a chili holds multiple layers of flavor—spiciness is just the bluntest.

"Charred Chili" offers smoky aroma, evoking childhood hearths, freshly roasted sweet potatoes, or piping-hot pastries. Homes always keep dried chilies, toasted in embers until crisp, then pounded in mortars—cracked black skins reveal golden seeds, their fiery scent retaining the fire’s warmth. Best enjoyed dry-dipped or sprinkled on beef noodles: Guiyang’s broth, rich with beef fat, is elevated by charred chili, unlocking every drop of umami.

Charred chili paired with Guiyang beef noodles—perfection!

If the dried chilies are soaked to absorb moisture before being crushed, the resulting paste-like "Ciba chili" better preserves the authentic aroma of the peppers, making it perfect for stir-frying. The Guizhou-style "spicy chicken" is not stir-fried with dried chilies like the Chongqing version but cooked with Ciba chili until juicy, tender, and bouncy. The bright red chili oil seeps into the meat fibers, initially not seeming too fiery but delivering intense heat upon swallowing. Before you can recover, your hand uncontrollably reaches for the next piece.

Spicy chicken stir-fried with Ciba chili is exceptionally tender and flavorful.

Those who appreciate spicy food all understand the delight of "chilies fried in oil": high heat instantly releases the aroma of dried chilies, while the oil captures and preserves the unleashed flavors, melting into a burst of energy-packed joy—Guizhou's "chili oil" takes this ultimate pleasure even further: different oils are used for different occasions.

In the sturgeon feast, the boiling broth is filled with the boldness and sweetness of chilies.

The home-style version uses rapeseed oil, versatile and indispensable for mixing with noodles or rice noodles. The nationwide favorite "Lao Gan Ma" is a prime example of perfecting this basic spicy flavor. For a more refined dish like mutton rice noodles, the chili oil must be made with lamb fat and served hot; otherwise, the congealed oil can become gamey. Paired with hot broth, it offers a rich, sweat-inducing taste. "Chicken chili" is the most interesting—it can be seen as chili oil with diced chicken or spicy chicken with extra chilies. The fatty chicken skin wraps around the chilies, with savory meat cubes occasionally emerging in the spiciness, delivering sheer indulgence.

The sour fragrance of fermented chili might truly be called the soul of Guizhou cuisine. The humid climate of Guizhou naturally fosters the art of fermentation. Rock sugar and liquor form the backbone of the "fermented" flavor, while freshly chopped ripe chilies from July and August are enhanced with salt and young ginger for layered taste. After sealing for a month or two, the pungent spiciness gains a gentle sweet-and-sour note. As the saying goes, "Ever-changing Guizhou dishes, unshakable fermented chili." This treasured jar pairs with almost all ingredients: braised fish with fermented chili, stir-fried pork intestines with fermented chili—each meeting with meat proteins yields tender, fresh delights. For stir-fried or cold vegetable dishes, it adds a refreshing zest.

Yes, even fried rice can be made with fermented chili!

Such diverse chili preparations connect with cuisine through bowls of "dipping sauce."

Dipping sauce, or condiment. Guizhou people love hotpot and grilled dishes, ensuring every meal includes one or two dishes paired with chili-based dips. Here, everyone is a spice connoisseur, with strict rules on which foods match which dips—mixing them up would be laughable.

Just how many types of dipping sauces are there in Guizhou?

How meticulous are Guizhou people about dipping sauces? Take "tofu pudding" as an example. Tofu pudding is vegetarian, so the dipping sauce must include oil—chili oil is the star, fried with minced pork, soy sauce, and salt for an appetizing touch. When eaten with rice, the sauce needs extra salt to prevent the slippery tofu surface from repelling the oil and making it bland.

In Zunyi, tofu noodle soup is a favorite—besides tofu pudding, noodles are soaked in soy milk. The broth solves the "flavor infusion" problem, but the dipping sauce adds texture, preventing the noodles and tofu from becoming monotonously soft. A mix of minced ginger, scallions, crispy soybeans, sesame oil, cilantro, and diced chicken creates a granular, aromatic experience.

Fig. 1-2: Tofu noodle soup and dipping tofu pudding, each with its own charm.

Hotpot demands even more attention. In Guizhou, anything can become hotpot—a richly flavored dish with ample broth, where meats and vegetables are dipped at will, embodying free-spirited dining with distinct styles. For clear broth hotpots, the dipping sauce must include charred chili, garlic, pepper powder, and Sichuan peppercorns to cut gaminess and enhance freshness, highlighting the meat's true taste. For northern Guizhou braised mutton or central Guizhou spicy chicken hotpot, where the broth is already rich, the dipping sauce should be light—crushed fresh chilies offer the mildest "Guizhou-style spiciness."

Fig. 1-2: Xingyi's "pig-slaughtering dish," where the spicy meat aroma bursts from the pot.

Photo by Chen Qingquan

Then there's "sizzling pot," the king of night markets, where ingredients are grilled on a special clay pot, resembling teppanyaki but oilier. Whether it's greens, dried tofu, or pork belly, the most popular dip is chili powder mixed with crushed peanuts. Recently, "live-oil sizzling pot" has trended—a hole in the pot's center holds a dipping bowl with lard and dried chilies. As the pot heats, the lard boils, essentially frying a fragrant chili oil right before diners' eyes, making it irresistible.

Sizzling pot tofu, with oil furiously bubbling under high heat.

The world's chili capital! How does Guizhou "trade globally"?

Guizhou's chili harvest season peaks around July and August, also the busiest time for chili trade. Yet as early as May, highways into Guizhou are already packed with trucks laden with fiery red chilies—from Sichuan, Hunan, Henan, Xinjiang, and beyond. Overseas chilies arrive too—from South Korea, Myanmar, Vietnam... Even India's famed "ghost pepper" surges in wave after wave along the roads.

In July and August, the Pepper City enters its peak trading season.

What are they doing? Oh, they're heading to Zunyi, Guizhou, to attend a grand pepper festival.

The "China Pepper City" in Xiazi Town, Zunyi, is now not only the largest pepper distribution hub in China but also the global trading center for peppers. In 2021, the dry pepper trade volume here reached 280,000 tons, driving a secondary market of 550,000 tons and generating approximately 9 billion yuan in transactions. Centered around it, a dense pepper trading network has been established, and the "Dry Pepper Price Index" released daily here influences the hearts of "pepper brokers" worldwide.

During the trading season at Pepper City, piles of peppers are everywhere, and the air is filled with a spicy aroma.

The confidence to set global pepper prices naturally stems from the excellent quality of Guizhou peppers. A visit to Pepper City reveals that domestic peppers generally cost 6-7 yuan per pound, while Indian and Burmese peppers are even cheaper. Yet, Guizhou peppers can fetch over ten yuan per pound and are always in high demand. Seasoning and hotpot brands nationwide regard these premium Guizhou peppers as a secret ingredient for enhancing flavor.

Guizhou peppers: the soul of seasoning.

But "Guijiao" (Guizhou peppers) doesn't rest on its laurels—it continues to tirelessly overcome numerous challenges.

The first hurdle is "germplasm." While Guizhou boasts many premium pepper varieties, this advantage can also pose a problem—too many varieties mean insufficient yield for any single type, hindering large-scale industrial production. Researchers must "select the best from the best" while preserving high-quality varieties, along with centralized seedling cultivation and standardized planting. They strive to maintain consistent conditions in the ever-changing mountainous terrain, promoting the most fragrant, mellow, and market-favored varieties.

Figure 1: In Longli County, Guizhou, an automatic seeder picks up pepper seeds.

Figure 2: At a pepper seedling base in Fuquan City, Guizhou, workers tend to pepper seedlings.

Images provided by Visual China.

Modern processing capabilities must also keep pace. Leading companies like "Lao Gan Ma" produce over 3 million bottles of pepper products daily, while brands such as "Gui San Hong," "Hong Man Po," and "Zun La" compete fiercely. Industrial parks are sprouting up rapidly with local support. Guizhou now has 623 pepper drying production lines alone, capable of drying 11,700 tons of peppers daily, fueling the pepper industry with extraordinary efficiency.

Figures 1-2: Pepper processing production lines.

Photos by Chen Weihong.

Two or three hundred years ago, the bold, fierce, and impactful pepper wasn't loved by everyone—only those deep in the mountains cherished it. Today, under the fast-paced lifestyle and diverse culinary influences, the pepper's distinctive character is winning over everyone, and the delicious flavors crafted by Guizhou people are astonishing the world.

The vibrant industry and fiery dreams are burning like flames. Don’t you want to taste the freshness of "Guijiao" and join this carnival of flavors?

The long-table banquet in Shibing County, Qiandongnan—come and join the spicy revelry!

Image Editor | Chen Jinyu.

Graphics | Jiuyang, Yuyitiao.

Special thanks to the interviewed experts/reviewers for this article—

Tian Hao, Director of the Pepper Research Institute at Zunyi Academy of Agricultural Sciences