China's Hidden Spring Delicacy: How This Underrated Ingredient Conquered 100 Million Dining Tables

In the past month, the steamers of Henan people have welcomed their busiest time—

When it comes to spring delicacies, most of us think of Jiangsu and Zhejiang, but few realize that Henan is also a hidden "spring delicacy powerhouse." As spring arrives, wild vegetables begin to appear frequently on Henan dining tables. For this taste of freshness, everyone can channel their inner "Wang Baochuan." Scenes of people—young and old—bending over with plastic bags in hand, gathering greens from the ground and treetops, are common in Henan's countryside. Their exploration of wild vegetables is incredibly broad, extending far beyond familiar varieties like locust flowers, elm seeds, and Chinese toon. They’ve also uncovered all sorts of wonderfully named wild greens: paper mulberry buds, kalimeris, Russian thistle, and broomcorn shoots...

Of course, the people of the Central Plains not only appreciate wild vegetables but also have a deep understanding of their natural, fresh flavors. Unconstrained by convention, they’ve developed a distinctly local cooking method—steaming. A handful of wild greens and a steamer are all Henan people need to unlock spring’s flavors. Simply toss the greens with oil and coat them in flour, and they’re transformed, as if dressed in delicate white veils. After steaming, they’re imbued with a magical taste—plump, juicy, and bursting with spring on the tongue.

Henan’s status as a wild vegetable haven is largely thanks to its unique geography and climate. Its fertile plains, a cradle of agriculture, nurture not only crops but also a vibrant array of wild greens. Each spring, as temperatures rise, these verdant treasures push through the soil, offering both a splash of green in nature and the first taste of freshness for Henan’s people.

The curtain on Henan’s spring vegetable feast is raised by Chinese toon. Known as "tree flowers," its tender red buds herald spring’s arrival. As they deepen to a purplish-red and grow to fist-sized clusters, the first harvest is ready for the table. Henan’s toon is especially prized, rich in flavor compounds, particularly the coveted red-oil variety. Whether cold-tossed, steamed, or stir-fried, it’s delicious. Henan children are adept not only at picking toon but also at gathering elm seeds. In spring, the pale green seeds dangle like strings of coins from branches. While mothers hover by the steamer, kids nimbly climb trees, bringing baskets of spring’s bounty to the kitchen.

April is for elm seeds; May, for locust blossoms. When the air fills with the fragrance of locust flowers, children fashion hooks to twist clusters from high branches, sending cascades of white blooms from yard to table. Steamed locust flowers, with their unmatched floral aroma, often serve as a simple yet beloved staple, evoking countless cherished memories.

Henan’s spring feast doesn’t end there. Lesser-known treasures abound, like the translucent purple paulownia flowers, their thick petals edible even when dried, preserving spring’s essence. Then there’s the caterpillar-like paper mulberry spike, locally called "chubujiu." Harvesting it is meticulous work—its sticky sap stains hands black—but one bite of steamed chubujiu makes it all worthwhile.

Ground-level treasures are even denser. Shepherd’s purse (affectionately called "jijicai" locally) dots fields, perfect for dumpling fillings. There’s also "water radish greens" (Malcolmia africana), ideal for tossing into noodles. Kalimeris, dandelions, and purslane are also local favorites. And then there are the whimsically named varieties: "noodle greens," "Russian thistle," and "broomcorn shoots"—likely named for their shapes. Long, wide "noodle greens" slide smoothly like pasta, while spiky "Russian thistle" and "broomcorn shoots" offer unique textures...

With demand so high, many now cultivate wild greens, making them readily available in markets. But Henan natives know the true joy lies not just in eating but in foraging—strolling through fields or along riverbanks, gathering greens by hand. That immersive, treasure-hunt atmosphere is the purest pleasure.

Outsiders in Henan often marvel at wild vegetables but hesitate at preparation. The solution is simple: as market vendors advise, "Wash ’em, mix with flour, steam ’em, and whip up some garlic sauce. Delicious!"

Steaming is Henan’s universal formula for wild greens. Unlike blanching, it preserves their essence while amplifying their earthy aroma. Though seemingly simple, the process demands care: wash the greens thoroughly (ideally overnight), toss with oil to lock in moisture, then coat with flour for a fluffy texture. A few minutes in the steamer, and the kitchen fills with fragrance.

But don’t dig in just yet. The finishing touch is the dip. Fresh garlic, blended with seasonings into a sauce, elevates the greens—whether tossed or dipped—with a spicy, savory kick. Nutritious and hydrating, steamed greens are as healthy as they are tasty.

Steamed dishes aren’t limited to spring. Year-round, Henan tables feature root and leafy vegetables—carrot shreds, potato strands—steamed for a uniquely chewy bite. Even green beans, steamed and dressed, make a refreshing side.

In Henan, wild greens aren’t just steamed. Locals have devised countless ways to savor spring’s bounty—

Chopped greens in dumplings or buns are a classic. Shepherd’s purse shines in wontons, steamed buns, or pancake rolls. Amaranth and elm seeds sweeten fluffy cornbread, encapsulating spring’s essence.

Fragrant toon adapts to any dish—cold-tossed, stir-fried, or even deep-fried in a crispy batter. Locust flowers morph into a spicy sauce for buns or noodles. Many wild greens, like locust flower tea, also offer medicinal benefits, pairing perfectly with spring.

In leaner times, wild greens sustained countless lives. Today, amid daily feasts, their simplicity feels like a rare, nostalgic luxury. Henan expats who once grew tired of them now yearn for that taste of home. With each bite steeped in childhood memories, they sigh: "Today’s meal hits just right."