China's Most Culinary Province: Which Bowl of Rice Truly Steals the Show?

Heartbroken Rice, so delicious it brings tears to your eyes!

Just after the summer movie season, in a quiet corner of the theater lineup, the nostalgic film "The God of Cookery" made a low-key return, reigniting the "culinary battle" after 28 years.

As the first work produced by Stephen Chow's Star Overseas after its establishment in 1996, aside from Chow's signature nonsensical comedy, what audiences remember most are the imaginative dishes featured throughout the film: the Emperor Fried Rice personally prepared by the real "God of Cookery" Dai Lung, the Love Chop Suey Noodles that could defeat the God of Cookery with heartfelt effort, the bouncy beef balls elastic enough to play ping-pong, the super luxurious Buddha Jumps Over the Wall brimming with delicacies, and the most romantic finale—the Heartbroken Rice.

The Heartbroken Rice from the ultimate showdown in "The God of Cookery,"

Stephen Chow's two-minute culinary miracle.

Can a bowl of rice really surpass delicacies from land and sea? Guangdong, the home of Heartbroken Rice, surely has the answer.

Known as the "Land of Fish and Rice" in southern China, Guangdong is one of the origins of rice cultivation civilization. Centuries of experience with rice have enabled locals to create countless flavors from the simplest grain. From claypot rice and fried rice that emphasize pairing with dishes and wok hei (breath of the wok), to quick and convenient plate rice and mixed rice with toppings and sauce, each style branches into specialties like cured meat claypot rice, Taishan eel rice, Baisha goose rice, Emperor Fried Rice, Chaoshan braised rice, tofu and roasted pork rice, Longjiang braised pork rice, scallion-ginger mixed rice, and lard mixed rice.

The allure of a soft-boiled egg lies in the moment the chopstick pierces it, releasing the golden yolk.

Photo/Shanghai Where to Eat (meishi388)

In Guangdong, where fried rice is a must at banquets, "per-person rice" is ordered at restaurants, and even a drizzle of soy sauce can elevate plain rice:

Only true food lovers understand the weight of a perfect bowl of rice.

Plump grains of rice, stripped of their husks to reveal glistening white kernels, endure the test of time. Under the collaboration of water and fire, they gradually fluff up, becoming glossy and fragrant... While rice unites palates across China, its ubiquity often makes it taken for granted. But in Guangdong, the Pearl River Delta's "Land of Fish and Rice," this is not the case.

Here, rice transcends its role as a staple, becoming a symbol of mealtime ritual. No matter how lavish the dishes, a meal isn't complete without rice; conversely, even with no side dishes, a simple lard-mixed rice counts as a satisfying meal. Even at banquets featuring delicacies and fried rice, Cantonese diners will insist on an extra bowl of "per-person rice" to feel truly content.

As one of China's most food-savvy provinces, Guangdong excels at crafting delicacies from local ingredients—and their beloved rice is no exception. Among these, claypot rice stands out as the most iconic.

Cured meat claypot rice, the "star" of the claypot rice family.

Claypot rice is said to have evolved from Shunde's "Fifth Watch Rice," a postpartum tonic. Though it appears to be a simple combination of claypot, rice, and toppings, it's nutritionally rich and meticulously prepared. A quintessential example of Cantonese cuisine's "simple but sophisticated" style, only locals truly appreciate the craftsmanship behind a perfect claypot rice.

First, the claypot: Foshan, the "Ceramic Capital," boasts a pottery history dating back to the late Neolithic period. Its earthenware sandpots, renowned as "Shiwan ware, peerless under heaven," are ideal for claypot rice. Sized for one person, these porous pots ensure even heat distribution and steam release. Reinforced with wire to withstand repeated open-flame cooking without cracking, they arrive at the table still warm from the charcoal fire, keeping the meal piping hot.

Who truly understands the value of firewood claypot rice?!

Next is rice selection. As a cradle of rice culture, Guangdong abounds in premium varieties like Maba sticky rice, Zengcheng silky rice, Lianshan rice, and Sanrao fragrant rice. For claypot rice, locally grown sticky rice and silky rice are preferred. Sticky rice, plump and glossy, absorbs flavors well, making it ideal for cured meat claypot rice where ingredients cook with the rice. Silky rice, slender and firm, shines in dishes like Taishan eel rice or Baisha goose rice that require stir-frying after steaming.

Finally, the chef's mastery of heat control and pot rotation. As an affordable neighborhood staple, claypot rice kitchens often handle a dozen pots simultaneously. From taking orders—adding ingredients, simmering, adjusting water levels, drizzling oil, rotating pots—chefs never lift the lid, relying entirely on skill. Every step impacts the final result.

Take the widely acknowledged "essence" of claypot rice—the crispy rice crust at the bottom. It relies on the chef's skill of evenly heating the pot by rotating it while drizzling oil, creating large, golden, intact, and easily scoopable crispy pieces that can be lifted whole with a spoon from the edges. Without this rotation, the bottom would turn into black, burnt-tasting crust.

Apply even pressure along the edge of the pot to lift the entire rice crust in one piece.

Finally, there's the soy sauce, a closely guarded secret of local restaurants. In Guangdong, where light and mildly spiced cuisine is favored, soy sauce holds a revered status as the primary seasoning. Whether in neighborhood eateries or street stalls, most proprietors have their own secret recipes for soy sauce blends—typically savory, sweet, and fragrant, enriched with the nutty aroma of peanut oil. It never overshadows the rice and toppings but instead elevates them like the finishing touch.

As for toppings, though claypot rice menus are extensive enough to induce "choice paralysis," the most common combination for harmony in cooking time and balance is one meat and one vegetable. The vegetable is often the beloved king of greens in Guangdong—choy sum, two fresh and vibrant stalks with stems and leaves arranged around the pot. Meat options vary: the classic traditional cured meat rice features sweet Cantonese sausages rendered by heat, their oils seeping into the rice; black bean spare rib rice is rich and savory; innovative options like perilla beef rice combine the herb's captivating aroma with tender beef juices to enhance the rice...

Drizzling soy sauce and mixing is a fixed ritual before eating claypot rice.

Photo/Shanghai Where to Eat (meishi388)

In Guangdong, where everything can be turned into claypot rice, any choice is a safe bet.

With toppings and sauce,

Unlike the delicate finesse of claypot rice, the "prototype" of the eye-catching "Heartbroken Rice" from *The God of Cookery*—plate rice (碟头饭)—is far more casual and free-spirited.

Braised pork knuckle rice, one of the most widely recognized plate rice dishes.

Born in the last century, plate rice, also known as "coolie rice," began as an unintentional solution for Guangzhou restaurants to repurpose leftovers by selling them cheaply to laborers (coolies). Using large plates typically for serving dishes, rice was piled at the bottom, topped with whatever dishes and gravies were available that day. Though haphazardly assembled with no regard for presentation, the gravy thoroughly soaked the rice, making it hearty and satisfying. Over time, it gained popularity beyond leftovers and laborers.

Beef with silky scrambled eggs, juicy, tender, and bursting with flavor.

Photo/Little Giant Wang; Tuchong Creativity

Broadly speaking, any single-serving dish in Lingnan served on a plate with rice can be considered plate rice. Ubiquitous in tea restaurants, dai pai dongs, and fast-food joints, it comes in countless varieties, ready to order. The "Three Musketeers" of roasted meats—char siu, roast goose, and white-cut chicken—lead the roster of roast meat rice. Roast shops prepare fresh ingredients daily, hanging them neatly on hooks behind glass windows for purchase à la carte or as customizable plate rice.

After ordering, the kitchen operates like a well-oiled machine: the rice chef swiftly scoops a portion from the steaming warmer; the meat chef deftly retrieves the chosen item, chops it swiftly, and arranges it over the rice before drizzling gravy; finally, the plating chef adds two stalks of greens and a fried egg for garnish.

Char siu can be tailored to preference—fattier, leaner, or all lean.

Beyond the fame of "Heartbroken Rice," another nationally beloved plate rice is the "Light of Modern Office Workers"—Longjiang braised pork knuckle rice. Tender, fatty pork knuckle pairs with meat rolls, tofu, and pickled vegetables, topped with blanched greens and the soul-stirring braising sauce. For something more elaborate, there's wok-fried kitchen rice, like the iconic "Tofu and Roast Pork Rice," celebrated as "a man’s romance," combining tofu and roast pork for a satisfying bite.

Photo/HiTecherZ; Tuchong Creativity

Plate rice's free-spirited nature also lies in its boundless inclusivity of culinary elements: Southeast Asian-style curry chicken rice, curry pork chop rice; Cantonese-style shrimp with scrambled egg rice, five-pickled-egg fried rice... each bursting with flavor.

Rumor has it that the inspiration for *The God of Cookery* was the cameo-appearing chef Dai Long, who served the "Emperor Fried Rice" at the film's start. In real life, Stanley Ho once splurged a fortune on this dish—a testament to its popularity.

A seemingly ordinary fried rice can perfectly pair with abalone or brisket.

If claypot rice and plate rice require a local neighborhood eatery for authentic flavors, then fried rice is a home-cooked dish anyone can attempt. As for the key to fried rice, *The God of Cookery* already revealed: overnight rice. Take Chaoshan-style "kè fàn" as an example—fresh pork belly is stir-fried to render lard, then local specialties like taro, shrimp, and cabbage are added and cooked. Cold overnight rice is then steamed with the mixture before being stir-fried over high heat again. When the rich aroma fills the air, a wok-full of fragrant "kè fàn" is ready to serve.

"Eating kè fàn on the tenth day of October" is Chaoshan people’s way of celebrating the arrival of new rice.

For rice lovers who aren’t skilled at cooking or prefer to avoid open flames, Cantonese-style "lo fan" (mixed rice) comes to the rescue. The first meal most Guangdong kids learn to make is likely soy sauce mixed rice—a dish so simple it "requires only hands." Hot rice is drizzled with a secret soy sauce blend, delivering a savory-sweet richness. The most hidden anticipation after eating poached chicken for seven straight days during the New Year is the ginger-scallion oil rice mixed with fragrant chicken fat. There’s also fermented tofu mixed rice, which transforms with a bit of sugar and steaming, and the divine lard mixed rice—so good you wouldn’t trade it for immortality.

Creating soul-stirring flavors from the humblest ingredients is perhaps what Stephen Chow realized through the "Heartbroken Rice": "As long as you put your heart into it, everyone can be a god of cookery."

Finally, we wish you all: Wealth and glory, smoother than sugarcane!

*Yangcheng Net*: *Plate Rice: The Poor’s Blessing, The Commoner’s Romance*

*Guangming Net*: *"Rice" Through the Ages: Unveiling the "Past and Present" of the Grain in Your Bowl*

This article is original content from *【Local Flavor and Culture】*.