China's Most Delicious Province Hides a Snack Kingdom

Fuding, a small city in northeastern Fujian, is undoubtedly a "hidden gem" on the list of popular tourist destinations. If one word were to describe it, "treasured yet low-key" would be most fitting.

In terms of scenery, mountains, sea, lakes, grasslands, and islands harmoniously create a fairy-tale-like world here, allowing you to experience "Hulunbuir"-style prairie landscapes along the southeastern coast. When you stand on the meadows, feeling the sea breeze, nature's romance finds its tangible expression.

Fuding is a small city nestled between mountains and sea.

When it comes to food, it is truly the "Kingdom of Snacks"—Fuding meat slices, frosted taro, pot-side paste… Over 300 varieties of snacks make it impossible to try them all. And Fuding's seafood is exceptional, with an dazzling array of fish, shrimp, crab, and shellfish, served raw or cooked, leaving you spoiled for choice.

As for drinks, this is the "Hometown of Chinese White Tea" and the "Hometown of China's Famous Teas"! Fuding white tea, listed as national and UNESCO intangible cultural heritage, and Bailin Gongfu, one of Fujian's three major red teas, have made Fuding globally renowned for its tea. Here, tea is an enduring legend.

Fuding white tea is a product of national geographical indication.

"World white tea comes from China, and China's white tea comes from Fuding." When talking about Fuding, its tea is an unavoidable topic.

Fuding is located in the northeastern corner of Fujian Province, with its southeastern side bordering the East China Sea—its maritime area is ten times larger than its land area. The limited land area is almost entirely hilly, with crisscrossing waterways between rolling mountains.

The oceanic monsoon brings abundant rainfall, while the low latitude ensures ample sunshine, resulting in a mild and humid climate—neither freezing winters nor scorching summers.

The unique geography and climate make Fuding an ideal place for tea cultivation, nurturing fine tea varieties like Fuding Dabai and Fuding Dahao, and establishing Fuding as a renowned tea-producing region in China.

White tea, one of the six major tea categories, originated in Fuding.

The production of white tea involves only two steps: withering and drying—no frying or rolling. It has the simplest process among the six tea types, yet yields a uniquely mellow and sweet flavor.

Withering is the core step in white tea production. Whether using sunlight withering, indoor withering, or a combination of both, it requires the tea master's rich experience and precise judgment to retain the tea's active enzymes and polyphenols at just the right moment.

Records show that in the early Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, Fuding first created white tea using local "Caicha" (wild tea), later switching to buds of Fuding Dabai to produce "Baihao Yinzhen" (Silver Needle).

The name sounds ethereal and is vividly apt. The dried tea is covered in white fuzz, silver-white and straight as needles. When brewed, the pale apricot-colored liquor is dotted with fine tea hairs, offering a fresh and refreshing taste.

Baihao Yinzhen, covered in white fuzz, stands straight as needles.

Other common Fuding white tea varieties include White Peony, Gongmei, and Shoumei. Their production processes are similar to Baihao Yinzhen, but differences in raw materials and details result in distinct appearances and flavors.

From the late Qing Dynasty to today, Fuding has remained a key hub for China's white tea exports. Fuding white tea production techniques, as the sole representative of white tea craftsmanship, are listed as national intangible cultural heritage and included in UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as part of "Traditional tea processing techniques and associated social practices in China."

In May this year, Fuding white tea ranked fifth in the "2023 Top 10 Chinese Tea Regional Public Brands," with a brand value of 6.07 billion yuan, a testament to its market popularity.

Overshadowed by Fuding white tea's fame, many overlook another century-old renowned tea from Fuding—Bailin Gongfu.

Bailin Gongfu, covered with orange-yellow pekoe

As one of the "Three Minhong Gongfu Teas," Bailin Gongfu once experienced a period of great prosperity, with an annual output of over 1,500 tons and widespread sales overseas. In the early years of the founding of the People's Republic of China, a state-owned tea processing factory was established in Bailin Town to improve the quality and yield of Bailin Gongfu.

Later, due to the shift in tea production to green tea, the output of Bailin Gongfu sharply declined, and its presence in the black tea market gradually diminished. To this day, it remains relatively obscure. However, in terms of quality, the raw materials and craftsmanship of Bailin Gongfu ensure its status as a premium Gongfu black tea.

Made from the high-quality tea plant variety Fuding Da Bai Cha, Bailin Gongfu undergoes withering, rolling, fermentation, and drying—complementary processes that result in a dark, glossy appearance with visible pekoe, a rich fruity and pekoe aroma, and a bright orange-red liquor.

A cup of Bailin Gongfu, brimming with rich fruity fragrance

If you happen to have Bailin Gongfu tea on hand, feel free to use the "Authentic Chinese Black Tea Flavor Wheel" to analyze its flavor profile. Share your tasting notes in the comments and see if your experience aligns with others!

Experiencing "Hulunbuir" on the southeastern coast

If you visit Bailin Town today, you can still sense the profound influence of tea on this small town.

The revived Bailin Ancient Tea Street, restored to its original appearance, retains its rustic and historic charm. Walking on the bluestone-paved road, gazing up at the rows of ancient-style buildings, and watching the lanterns glow under the eaves while tea flags flutter in the wind—you’ll feel the significance of tea to Bailin.

The ancient tea street of Bailin Town was once a hub for tea trade in eastern Fujian.

You can choose any of the teahouses lining the old street, climb the creaky stairs, and sit at wooden tables and chairs weathered by time. Sip a pot of Fuding white tea or Bailin Gongfu while listening to the owner’s tales of this old street, once a bustling tea trade center in eastern Fujian, and the lively chatter of tourists outside—an experience unmatched elsewhere.

In Cuijiao Village of Bailin Town, there’s also an ancient residence closely tied to tea—Cuijiao Ancient House.

A witness to the history of Bailin’s tea industry

Built in the 10th year of the Qianlong era (1745 AD), this ancient residence is nestled among mountains and rivers, covering about 14,000 square meters. It embodies the grandeur, elegance, and subtle beauty of traditional Chinese architecture and is the largest and best-preserved single-structure ancient residence discovered in the Jiangnan region, hailed as a "living fossil of ancient Chinese architecture" and a "treasure of Chinese heritage."

Inside, the house features intricate carvings, painted beams, and ornate ceilings—every detail exudes luxury, reflecting the wealth of its owners, the Wu family, who amassed their fortune through the tea trade. The residence stands silently, bearing witness to centuries of change and innovation in Bailin’s tea industry.

Tea-making tools and traces remain in the ancient residence.

After immersing yourself in history, head to the "Fairyland on the Sea"—Mount Taimu—to continue your tea-inspired journey amid natural wonders.

Upon arriving at Mount Taimu, you’ll marvel at how vividly the phrase "jagged rocks" comes to life here. Though not particularly high in elevation, the mountain’s granite peaks, forests, and caves create a breathtakingly rugged landscape.

Mount Taimu is part of the Ningde UNESCO Global Geopark.

Under the glow of a radiant sunset, rolling seas of clouds, lush vegetation, and bizarrely shaped boulders complement each other, forming a majestic and awe-inspiring vista. The original "mother plant" of Fuding white tea—"Lvxueya"—grows atop Hongxue Cave on Mount Taimu. This ancient tea tree gave rise to the high-quality Fuding Da Bai Cha.

The ancient tea tree "Lüxueya" in Taimu Mountain is the "ancestor" of Fuding white tea.

The most interesting part is a giant rock inscribed with the calligraphy "Indeed a Famous Mountain" by the renowned calligrapher Zhao Puchu. After witnessing the breathtaking scenery of Taimu Mountain, visitors standing before this rock will surely resonate deeply with the inscription.

Since you’ve come to Fuding, Dayu Mountain Island is a must-see. Located within the Taimu Mountain scenic area, this island was once named one of "China’s Top Ten Most Beautiful Islands" by China National Geographic magazine.

Boarding a boat from the pier, you’ll take in the panoramic views of mountains, sea, grasslands, islands, and lakes, finally understanding the accolade. At the island’s summit lie several natural lakes, their crystal-clear blue waters resembling mirrors dropped into the vast meadows.

Even more astonishing are the meadows surrounding the lakes—on this small offshore island, you’ll find a grassland scene straight out of the verse "Vast skies, boundless wildflowers, wind blows grass low to reveal cattle and sheep." The sea breeze sweeps across, turning the meadows into a green velvet carpet, transporting you into a fairytale world.

At night, under a sky dotted with stars, you’ll fall asleep to the sound of waves and wake up to a sunrise—a journey well worth it.

The First "Chinese Culinary Landmark City"

Fuding, awarded the title of the first "Chinese Culinary Landmark City" in 2019, has its own unique "secrets" when it comes to food.

Take snacks, for example. Fuding locals can transform simple ingredients into extraordinarily delicious flavors. No wonder Fuding meat slices went viral on short videos, leaving countless office workers dreaming of their next breakfast.

Made from lean pork hind legs and Guanyang sweet potato starch, the meat paste is vigorously mixed, spread thin on an iron griddle, and swiftly sliced into small boat-shaped pieces by the vendor’s lightning-fast movements with a small iron spoon.

As steam clouds your vision, the tantalizing aroma of meat begins to tease your nostrils, awakening your appetite. But the making of Fuding meat slices is far from over—the humble broth is the soul of the dish. A splash of hot soup over yellow chili, cilantro, and Fuding’s local rice vinegar creates a seemingly mild yet tangy and spicy flavor that warms and comforts the body.

Beyond meat slices, Fuding boasts over 300 varieties of snacks, including meat swallows, pot-side paste, Dianxia fried rice noodles, Guanyang loach noodles, Diantou rice noodle soup, Qianqi triangle dumplings, Zhu wings, pan-fried buns, pearl dumplings, and black rice—dozens of which have earned the title of "China’s Famous Snacks."

Of course, let’s not forget Fuding is a coastal city.

Before heading to Shihu’s seafood street, make sure to save room. Outside the shops, lobsters, crabs, yellow croakers, sea bass, scallops, and other seafood are neatly arranged on thick ice, dazzling visitors with endless choices. A glance at the exquisitely plated, aromatic dishes on neighboring tables will make you eager to sit down and savor the freshness.

Street seafood barbecue is an irresistible late-night temptation.

If none of these win you over, it’s time for the "China Famous Banquet"—the White Tea Banquet.

As the hometown of white tea, Fuding creatively blends tea culture with cuisine. Dishes like "Silver Needle Tea with Sea Clam" and "Tea-Infused Beef Ribs" harmonize the floral aroma of white tea with the umami of meat, adding a refreshing tea fragrance to every bite.

Tea and shrimp combine to create a unique freshness.

Alternatively, white tea meets yam and taro in delicate, mild-flavored desserts. Paired with a cup of Fuding tea, these treats let you savor the essence of this small city.