China's Most Hardcore Bacon-Loving Province Cures Everything on the Food Chain

Friends who recently visited Hunan, please note: when you look up at the sky at a 45-degree angle, you might encounter some dark, air-drying giants. They may be scattered outside Hunanese homes, on clotheslines, fitness equipment, or even atop bus stops—dense as an armory, yet far from weapons. These are, in fact, a delicious ingredient for the pot—yes, it’s the season for Hunanese smoked bacon.

Making bacon is an art of "smoke and fire."

Hunanese people love spice, but they adore "la" (cured meats) even more. Though curing meats is a common technique in Sichuan, Guizhou, Guangdong, and Zhejiang, it takes on an exceptionally wild form in Hunan. Here, the possibilities for what follows the word "la" are endless. Cured pork, chicken, duck, and goose are just the basics. With Hunan’s mastery of curing, even turtle and frog are fair game. A photo once went viral online, showing a Hunan cured meat shop with dried crocodile and loach on display—so striking it felt like stumbling into a museum’s biological specimen exhibit. Today, the species used for curing in Hunan are all farm-raised, but the diversity remains spectacular.

Why are Hunanese so obsessed with cured meats? The answer likely lies on their dining tables. Unassuming in appearance, cured bacon transforms into countless delicacies—stir-fried, steamed, or as the centerpiece of a warming winter hotpot. It even serves as a snack to accompany drinks. The rich universe of flavors derived from cured meats brings Hunanese people an especially fragrant winter happiness.

Around the winter solstice, Hunanese households unanimously spring into action—rural pig farmers gather friends to prepare for the annual pig slaughter, while urban residents empty supermarket meat sections. All efforts share one goal: smoking bacon.

The bacon array hanging above the stove

is a common winter sight in western Hunan homes.

Bacon, a staple for Hunanese every lunar December, wasn’t born from culinary pursuit but from practicality—Hunan’s damp climate, especially in the mountainous west, made preserving fresh pork difficult after winter slaughter. Locals adapted by curing and smoking it. Salt drives out moisture and locks in freshness, while time and weathering give the bacon a deep red, rugged crust, intensifying its rich, intoxicating aroma. Glancing up at the beams above the wood-fired stove, rows of hanging bacon give Hunanese kids the illusion of being in a decadent feast—a direct measure of New Year happiness, much like northerners stockpiling cabbage for security.

Well-smoked bacon keeps for ages, lasting well into the next year.

To make perfect bacon, start by cutting pork belly into evenly marbled, medium-width strips, coating them generously with salt, and pressing them into clay jars to cure. Once the salt fully penetrates, string them on sturdy materials and expose them to the stove’s smoky embrace. Locals often line the pot with cypress leaves, sawdust, or saved citrus peels. Patience is key—wait ten days to half a month for the meat to fully absorb the smoke, reaching peak flavor.

When curing bacon, don’t skimp on the salt.

Southern China universally makes bacon, but each province has its own style. Guangdong’s roasted meats are mild and balanced, Sichuan’s bacon is fiery and numbing with loads of peppercorns, while Hunan’s pursues a bold smokiness and the most intimidating appearance—jet-black and rock-hard, thudding like stone when dropped. At first glance, it’s hardly appetizing, but this rugged exterior is just a "protective shell." Once sliced open, it reveals a glistening, tender interior, with translucent fat hinting at its chewy texture when stir-fried.

With a cleaver’s stroke, the coarse exterior gives way to a delicate interior.

Hunanese ensure every part of "Brother Pig" reaches its full potential—head to toe, all can be cured. Pork head, often called the tastiest, is no exception, becoming cured pig face; trotters are treasures; offal isn’t wasted either—cured intestines turn crispy and fragrant, winning hearts. Even organs like heart and lung gain a meatier texture after curing. Even pig’s blood isn’t spared—Shaoyang locals invented cured blood tofu balls, mixing blood with tofu and pork to make savory slices perfect for stir-fries.

Cured pig face, ears, blood tofu balls, sausages...

Every part of "Brother Pig" is precious.

It’s not just pork—Hunanese see all meats as candidates for curing. For lakeside dwellers, cured fish is a must, with bighead carp and grass carp as prime choices. Beyond fish, they extend their reach to other aquatic fare—even turtles (softshell or hard) get cured, emerging like giant shields fit for battle. Whole cured chickens, ducks, geese, and squab hang dramatically, their once-elegant postures frozen mid-"song." In this light, bacon transcends mere food—it embodies Hunan’s bold culinary exploration.

More like a biological specimen exhibit than a cured meat shop.

Photo/Mr-FY, Image/图虫·创意

Spend a few days feasting in Hunan, and you’ll see—locals don’t just rely on bacon in winter. Various cured meats hold year-round pride on Hunan menus, as this handmade flavor best captures the region’s culinary essence.

Despite its intimidating appearance, cured meat is actually quite agreeable on the dining table and easy to handle. Just boil it briefly in a pot, wash off the stains and excess salt, then slice it. Whether steamed or stir-fried, it pairs perfectly with any ingredient for a win-win combination.

The rock-hard smoked cured meat regains its tenderness after a quick boil.

Steaming cured meat is the simplest way to enjoy its original flavor. After blanching and slicing, sprinkle some dried chili peppers and Liuyang fermented black beans, then drizzle with a few drops of essential tea oil. The steamed meat, glistening with oil, needs no extra seasoning—its taste is just right. Impatient Hunan kids often hover by the cutting board, snatching two slices with lightning speed as adults carve the meat. That first bite is the most fragrant.

Every Hunan kid has sneaked a taste of cured meat from the cutting board in their childhood.

Liuyang households serve the most steamed cured dishes, from ribs and sausages to fish, and even the grand "Assorted Steamed Cured Delicacies," where cured pork, fish, and ribs gather in harmony—a must-serve feast for guests. The method is rustic yet meticulous: first stir-fry the seasonings to release their aroma, infusing the meat deeply. By the time it’s served, the rich scent fills the room, signaling to guests that they’re in trouble—they won’t leave without at least two bowls of rice.

Assorted Steamed Cured Delicacies—a single plate showcasing all kinds of cured flavors.

Hunan folks love stir-frying, which gives cured meat a different charm—more wok hei and bolder taste. Cured meat is a socialite in the culinary world: its flavorful fat coats ingredients perfectly. Stir-fry it with winter bamboo shoots for a burst of savory and fresh notes, or with rehydrated smoked bamboo shoots for a deeper, smoky taste. Hand-sun-dried radish strips add a crisp texture, while stir-frying with garlic sprouts or shallots is a homely touch that cuts grease and enhances freshness.

Hot pot dishes are Hunan foodies’ go-to for warming up. A pot of cured pork trotters is perfect for late-night winter meals—less greasy yet tender, with a soul-stealing bite. Dry pot versions, like cured duck or frog, grow more addictive as they simmer, making them ideal drinking companions.

Dry pot cured duck, spicy duck feet bundles, and cured pork trotters.

Photo / Mao Doudou, Zhezhe Can’t Stay Still, Conghua

Beyond meals, cured meat sneaks into every corner of Hunan snacking. Pan-fried cured fish chunks tossed with red seasonings are both a rice-pairing staple and a daily nibble. Cured meat dices also stuff Xiangxi’s songzi glutinous cakes, offering a savory chew that brightens the day.

Cured flavors can also be delightful accents in everyday snacks.

Left / Tuchong Creative · Right / Huitu

While commercial cured meat is now widely available, vacuum-packed and ready to cook, these quick products can’t replace the slow-crafted flavors etched in Hunan memories.

To them, homemade cured meat remains the gold standard. When returning after the New Year, their suitcases and trunks overflow with it—yet they still call out, "Mom, pack two more!"

No store-bought cured meat rivals the fragrance of homemade.

Talking about Hunan cured meat? You can’t miss an authentic "Xiangxi-style" bite!

Made from local free-range pigs raised for over 10 months in Xiangxi.

Refining traditional techniques passed down by Xiangxi’s Tujia people.

Richer fat, softer texture, and deeper aroma from aged kiln smoking.👍

㊙️Choose any two flavors of 400g, and stack with discount coupons

Cover image, first image | Tuchong Creative

This article is original content from 【Authentic Local】