Wonton, the snack with the most "nicknames."
Baozi, jiaozi, and wonton are the three giants of traditional Chinese dough-based dishes. Compared to baozi and jiaozi, which dominate in popularity and often represent Chinese cuisine, wonton—equally ancient—seems perpetually overlooked. The reason is simple: its form is too versatile. Wontons vary in appearance, preparation, and even names across regions.
In Lingnan, wonton is most commonly called "wonton" (云吞), with Cantonese locals preferring it paired with bamboo-pole noodles in "da rong" or "xi rong." In Sichuan and Chongqing, spicy chili oil and Sichuan peppercorns define the flavor, leaving a bold mark with "red oil chaoshou." Hubei straightforwardly "translates" wonton as "baomian" or "clear soup." Fujian boasts the hearty "rouyan," a "meat-wrapped-meat" delicacy, and "bian shi," which gained nationwide fame through Shaxian snacks. There's also Xinjiang's sour soup "ququ," brimming with northwestern flavors.
Wontons not only flaunt creative names but also fully embrace local characteristics in ingredients and seasoning, undergoing a complete sensory transformation. Universally loved, Jiangsu and Zhejiang chase umami, Sichuan and Chongqing champion spice, while the Northwest stuffs them with lamb. Boiled, fried, tossed, or steamed—Shanghai alone elevates size to an art form.
Yet, no matter its local alias, wonton's role in daily life remains constant. A pot of boiling water, freshly wrapped dumplings, thin skins hugging tender fillings—it’s no banquet centerpiece but a comforting presence at dawn or midnight, warming body and soul.
Like jiaozi and baozi, wonton combines wrapper and filling, but its skins, fillings, and broths are far more varied. This very adaptability makes it the ultimate "street food snack."
Wonton dates back to at least the Han Dynasty, widespread across China with its crescent shape. As Northern Qi scholar Yan Zhitui noted, "Today’s wontons, shaped like crescents, are eaten everywhere."
Why "huntun" (混沌, chaos)? One theory links it to ancient myths of primordial chaos. The Qing text "Yanjing Suishiji" describes wontons as egg-like, resembling the universe’s formless beginnings, hence eaten on the winter solstice. Poet Lu You marveled at their refinement: "Steamed buns may split in ten, but wontons? Five folds are rare!"—praising craftsmanship beyond home kitchens.
What defines a good wonton? Standards vary wildly.
For southern wonton’s national reach, Fujian’s "Qianlixiang" is iconic. With 5,129 chains, these ¥10-ish bowls lurk in urban corners, offering fresh, thin-skinned dumplings in hot broth—a reliable, belly-filling pitstop.
Despite its ubiquity, in Fujian, "wonton" isn’t the term. Here, it splits into "bianrou" or "bianshi" (flour-wrapped-meat) and "rouyan" (meat-wrapped-meat).
Bianrou’s magic lies in texture. Clear pork-bone broth, white pepper, paper-thin skins revealing pink filling—first silky, then springy, with a juicy bite. Like Chaozhou beef balls, its filling is hand-pounded pork paste. But "rouyan" outdoes even this: pork beaten into translucent "swallow skins" wrapping more meat—Fujian’s relentless culinary ambition.
Next door, Guangdong’s "wonton" is "wonton" (云吞), best paired with duck-egg bamboo-pole noodles. Portions? "Da rong" (big) or "xi rong" (small).
Lacking wheat, Guangdong mastered unique noodle techniques. Bamboo-pole noodles, egg-kneaded and bamboo-pressed, yield bouncy strands. "Xi rong" (small bowl) keeps noodles perfectly al dente. A dab of lard, quick-boiled noodles, four wontons, seafood broth, chives, and shrimp roe—breakfast or late-night bliss.
Endless variations: Local, seasonal, always inventive.
In the southeast, wonton drops aliases, sticking to "X-wonton" for clarity. But beneath the uniformity lies flavor chaos—skins, fillings, and broths endlessly reinvented with river delicacies and veggies.
Shanghai, a carb haven, rivals its noodle shops with wonton stalls. Locals adore them, but styles diverge wildly. Meal-sized "da wonton" balances fatty pork, lean meat, and shepherd’s purse, testing wrapper craftsmanship—thick enough to hold, thin enough to delight. Petite "xiao wonton" prioritizes finesse: delicate fillings, ethereal skins, luxe broths (e.g., yellow croaker-pounded mini wontons).
Up the Yangtze, river treasures dazzle. Jiangyin’s "swordfish wonton" (now using sea swordfish post-fishing ban) blends delicate flesh with shepherd’s purse or chives, folded into ingot shapes—boiled to translucent jade, needing no adornment. Jingjiang’s "Maqiao wonton" features thin, chewy skins and seasonal fillings, always starring whole shrimp or other aquatic showstoppers.
In China’s wonton cosmos, Sichuan and Chongqing reign as the boldest.
Here, wonton becomes "chaoshou" (抄手). Why? Theories abound: folded arms-like shapes, or chilly street eaters hugging themselves for warmth.
Sichuan and Chongqing offer a wide variety of wontons, with the most representative being the red oil wonton. The cooked wontons feature smooth, tender white wrappers, drenched in a generous spoonful of chili oil made from sesame and ground peppers, then mixed with scallions, Sichuan peppercorns, and other seasonings. When the originally pale wonton skins are coated in vibrant red chili oil, each bite bursts with juicy meat filling blended with the rich, numbing-spicy flavors. For those who prefer soup, clear broth wontons are an option, though local eateries will likely still serve a side of bold-flavored dipping sauce, allowing you to enjoy both the soup and the spice. There are also varieties like the numbing-focused "Old Numbing Wonton" or the intensely spicy "Dried Chili Wonton," offering a fiery taste of Southwest China in a single bowl.
Hubei, another spice-loving region, breaks stereotypes with its wonton style. Known locally as "baomian," Hubei wontons are filled with fresh pork, pickled mustard greens, and scallions, wrapped in alkaline dough for thin yet sturdy skins. Street vendors keep the broth simple—just dried seaweed, dried shrimp, scallions, and hot water seasoned with white pepper. Some upscale versions use bone broth for extra richness, but chili is rarely added. In Xiangyang, the dish takes on a lighter name: "clear soup." Here, the soft, delicate wrappers contrast with the chewy meat filling, all enhanced by a hint of peppery spice, making it a perfect start to the day for locals.
If you think mastering the variations of wontons is just about the wrapper, filling, or broth, you’re sorely mistaken. In the vast world of wontons, there are far more ways to enjoy them than just in soup.
When it comes to fried wontons, most people’s first thought is the Shaxian-style version: golden-brown, crispy shells with a scant amount of pink, springy, juicy meat inside, typically served in portions for under ten yuan.
But deep-frying isn’t the only way to enjoy crispy wontons. In Guangdong, the "Jinlu Wonton" reigns supreme as the king of fried wontons, often served as banquet appetizers. These deep-fried wontons are slightly larger than dumplings, with golden, bubbly skins that shatter at the first bite, revealing a dense, meaty interior. Paired with the tangy "Wuliu sauce" (symbolizing happy unions), they embody prosperity and delight.
If there’s one drawback to wontons, it’s that their thin wrappers and brothy nature make them more hydrating than filling. The simplest solution? Go for the dry-tossed version.
Tossing pre-cooked wontons in a flavorful sauce not only makes them heartier but also eliminates the risk of burning your mouth. Regional variations abound: Shanghai-style uses diluted sesame paste, "Kaiyang" wontons call for lard, while in Sichuan and Chongqing (where it’s called "ganliu"), the dish is a spicy marvel—red oil, crushed peanuts, and scallions meld seamlessly without broth dilution, earning it the title of "true god" for spice lovers.
If there’s one preparation method that surprises most, it’s undoubtedly steaming.
Take Ningbo’s steamed pork wontons, for example. The wrappers develop a uniquely tender-chewy texture from the steam, while the filling stays succulent. Served with a custom dipping sauce, they offer an irresistibly distinct experience.