Could a Northern City Really Be China's Late-Night Snack Capital?

Summer nights belong to late-night snacks. Northerners relish hearty barbecue skewers, while southern gourmets delight in an array of river delicacies—every city has its own "midnight diner."

But which night market snacks have long held legendary status? The ancient capital of Kaifeng on the Central Plains seems particularly confident in its claim.

Because if Chinese people today enjoy a dazzling variety of late-night eats, this world-class ancient capital on the Central Plains deserves much of the credit—it pioneered night markets a thousand years ago.

The late-night culinary underworld beneath Kaifeng's Drum Tower.

At 6:30 each evening, as the drum tower's resonant beats echo, this ancient city—small enough to bike across in half an hour by day—transforms into a bustling hub. Vendors with carts pack every alley, and every ten-minute walk leads to another lively night market. As dusk falls, the tourist-packed Drum Tower Night Market, the locally beloved Xisi Night Market, and the student-favorite Laoheda West Gate Night Market collectively illuminate the city, charting Kaifeng's late-night food trail.

As the "originator" of Chinese night markets, it's brimming with legends and culinary schools. Every snack here stops passersby in their tracks—whether it's the stir-fried Liangfen and sweet potato mash favored by the young or the soup dumplings, Tongzi chicken, and almond tea adored by old-school Kaifeng locals. The most authentic "Kaifeng cuisine" puts the neighboring "KFC" to shame.

Just how extraordinary is the real "KFC" (Kaifeng Cuisine)?

Before Kaifeng's night markets were featured on CCTV, many might not have known its little-known claim as the birthplace of night markets. In truth, this capital of eight dynasties has always been a trendsetter in ancient lifestyles: during the Song Dynasty, the millennium-old curfew in this "Eastern Capital" was finally abolished. The spark of all-night revelry ignited here, making it an unprecedented "city that never sleeps," with late-night "miscellaneous snacks" wafting aromas everywhere and taverns brightly lit until dawn...

Not only did it pioneer night markets, but it was also the first city with takeout (then called "suohuan"), the first to adopt a three-meals-a-day system, and even the first to eat roast duck. After feasting in teahouses and taverns, people could watch performances in "entertainment quarters" or gather friends for a soak at "perfume baths"... The joys of modern urban nightlife were already in full swing in the Northern Song Dynasty over a thousand years ago.

The myriad delicacies of Kaifeng's night markets,

can be glimpsed in ancient paintings.

Today's Kaifeng, though its golden age has passed, remains unswayed by trends and true to its character. Locals take pride in culinary authenticity, so its quaint night markets aren't dominated by generic viral snacks. Instead, they bridge the food culture of the Northern Song Dynasty with the present—

In Kaifeng's night markets, each bazaar offers distinct scents and sights, a spectacle even Song Dynasty emperors would envy. But nothing defines Kaifeng like its soup dumplings: the city's "plum blossom buns," with wrappers thin as cicada wings, are the ancestors of all modern xiaolongbao.

How can you visit Kaifeng without trying its soup dumplings?

These delicate parcels demand a graceful approach: "Lift gently, move slowly, open a window, then sip the broth" to fully savor their juicy perfection.

Also dominating the night markets is Bianjing roast duck, a Northern Song delicacy that predates Beijing's version, with crisp skin and tender meat offering layered flavors. For poultry, the row-hung Tongzi chicken showcases Kaifeng's mastery: the whole bird is cooked intact, with organs removed through a wing slit, resulting in meat that's savory, tender, and crisp—more complex than regular roast chicken.

Rows of Tongzi chicken at the night market.

Wandering beneath the Drum Tower and through the markets, the city feels like a living "Dreams of Splendor of the Eastern Capital." Even the imperial-style almond tea, served from dragon-and-phoenix-adorned copper pots, exudes antiquity.

On sweltering summer nights, shaved ice—a treat depicted in the "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" scroll as "street drinks"—appears frequently. Contrasting the chilled treats is hot perilla drink, a Southern Song street beverage that stole scenes in "Dreams of Splendor." Alternating hot and cold bites, the flavors of a millennium feel vividly present.

Ultimately, Kaifeng's most unadulterated charm lies at the longest food cart queues. Stir-fried Liangfen, a millennium-old local staple now found nationwide, is something Kaifeng natives insist can only be truly soulful at home—only local chefs wield the secret ingredient: watermelon-fermented bean paste!

Old Kaifeng locals often call this "dou shi er" (fermented soybean paste). Every summer, sun-drying the paste is a must-do activity for them. The sweet watermelon and fermented soybeans collide during fermentation, creating a rich and aromatic flavor that not only colors the cold jelly but also imbues it with a soulful umami. Connoisseurs might ask the chef to "fry it longer," allowing the jelly to form a golden crispy crust at the bottom of the pan, achieving a texture that's crispy outside and tender inside. The crispiness of this crust is a true test of the chef's skill. Scoop two spoonfuls into your mouth, and the spicy, savory flavor melts on your tongue—this is what locals call "zhong" (perfect)!

Photo/Tuchong Creative, Photography/Wang Ning Images

Buns and flatbreads compete to be the "king of wraps." Having late-night snacks in Kaifeng offers a thrilling taste of Central Plains cuisine: hearty and substantial!

As China's largest wheat-producing region, Henan is undoubtedly a "carb paradise." Foods made primarily from high-gluten flour are everywhere, forming the backbone of Henan's culinary scene. When fillings and dishes are wrapped in ample carbs and calories without losing finesse, food lovers go wild for them.

The "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" painting depicts street vendors selling hu bing (barbarian bread). A millennium later, Kaifeng's late-night food scene has evolved into even more carb-loaded delights:

The ever-popular lamb kang mo (griddled lamb flatbread) in night markets is nothing like Shaanxi's sit-down lamb paomo. It’s more like a thin, crispy "lamb mille-feuille"—stuffed with minced lamb and spices, griddled in lamb fat until golden and crisp, releasing a burst of cumin and rich meaty aroma when bitten into. Another common find is bai ji mo, a wheat-flour flatbread with a nutty aroma, perfect paired with meatball soup or rice noodles.

The generously stuffed lamb kang mo is a mouthful of meaty bliss.

As for Kaifeng’s shuang ma huo shao (double-sesame baked cake), it flaunts the lavishness of Henan, China’s top sesame producer. Both sides are densely coated with sesame seeds, their fragrance deeply infused into the cake—delicious even plain. The "shaobing jia ji tui" (baked bun stuffed with chicken leg) is a street-food star adored by students. The chicken leg, roasted until juicy, is swiftly deboned and tucked into a golden bun, becoming Kaifeng’s own "chicken burger."

Beyond the hearty meat-stuffed buns, locals also cherish soothing broths. Only when buns and breads are paired with soups do they settle comfortably in the stomach. This "dry-wet combo" is a culinary philosophy Kaifengers devoutly follow.

Regardless of season, Kaifengers’ love for clay-pot dishes never wanes. Options abound—crispy pork, beef, egg, and more. Sizzling hot pots arrive at the table, even more fragrant with a sprinkle of pepper. Another classic is huang men yu (braised crispy fish), a millennia-old intangible cultural heritage dish. The fish, fried until brittle, is simmered in broth until tender, even the bones edible.

Some dishes might shock visitors but are beloved by locals, like a bowl of chicken blood soup—tender blood, fragrant liver, plus kidney, intestines, and stomach, all affordably hearty. Or try Kaifeng’s unique yang shuang chang (lamb double intestines), where blood-filled intestines are topped with milky lamb broth. No seasoning needed—just add chili lamb fat and pair with guo kui (crispy flatbread), sip and bite, pure comfort!

A sip of chicken blood soup, a bite of bread—this is Kaifeng’s nighttime soliloquy.

Kaifeng summers are sweet!

Even after feasting, the sight of stacked peanut cakes might tempt you anew—your stomach says "enough," but your mouth disagrees. Cauldrons of molten sugar syrup bubble fiercely as vendors pound sesame crisps with mallets, murmuring about "Song Dynasty Tokyo," "imperial cuisine," and "centuries-old traditions." One bite of the crumbly sweetness, and you’re hooked. Ending a Kaifeng night market run? Always with dessert.

Ancient Kaifengers knew how to beat the heat with chilled herbal drinks. Today, sweet soups still sweeten their nights. As Northern Song scholar Shen Kuo noted, "Southerners crave salt, Northerners crave sweets"—Kaifeng proves this true.

Almond tea, brewed from lotus root starch, is loaded with soaked almonds, raisins, sesame, crushed peanuts, and candied fruits—a riot of colors and textures in sweet harmony. Crystal-clear soup clings to toppings, layering sweetness on the tongue. Another favorite is rock sugar lotus seed porridge, soothing and fragrant. But on sweltering nights, icy treats reign: young folks "dui" (devour) snowflake ices piled with toppings, or sip simple chilled red bean drinks—each with its own charm.

Crushed peanuts, sesame, and raisins crown sweet potato mash—a traditional Kaifeng snack stir-fried with sugar and sesame oil. For many locals, it’s childhood nostalgia; for visitors, it’s a melting sweetness perfect for capping the night.

Kaifengers love to tout "authenticity" and "imperial heritage"—a stubborn pride every night-market vendor shares, reflecting their earnest dedication to food. This is why Kaifeng’s culinary flame has burned true for millennia, its leisurely flavors timeless.

CCTV Consumer Guide: "The 'Originator' of China's Night Markets Isn't Guangdong or Fujian—This Millennium-Old Delicacy Will Completely Conquer Your Taste Buds!"