From South to North: A Culinary Journey Through Five Seafood Cities.
Following the vast coastline from Guangdong, Fujian, and Zhejiang northward, our seafood trail arrives at Nantong, Jiangsu.
Rising between the river and the sea, this "First Modern City of China," this "academic powerhouse" that tops the charts every college entrance exam season—who would have thought that when it comes to seafood, Nantong also wins with its "uniqueness"?
The相思螺 (xiāngsīluó,相思螺) abundant on the mudflats are the profound nostalgia of Nantong's wanderers.
The title "World's Freshest Delicacy" originates from Nantong, and the "Hometown of Chinese Seafood" is also here. Razor clams, bamboo clams... a variety of mudflat seafood amaze and delight;drunken shrimp anddrunken crab—though not big drinkers, Nantong people take pride in their array of "intoxicatingly delicious" seafood;还有 "incredibly robust" swimming crabs, soul-stirringly fresh mud snails, and the "brocade-belted Wu hook" Lüsi hairtail...
Just how many hidden "freshness codes" does this Jiangsu seaside city hold?
The Low-Key "Sweeping Monk" of Chinese Seafood.
When people think of coastlines, they often imagine sandy beaches, coconut trees, and sea breezes, or the completely opposite scene: jagged rocks piercing the sky, and crashing waves. Nantong's coast has neither white sand nor rugged rocks, but instead vast, flat mudflats.
The coastal area of Nantong consists of flat maritime mudflats.
Historically, both the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers (as well as the Huai River, which was captured by the Yellow River) flowed into the sea through Jiangsu, carrying massive amounts of sediment that deposited at the estuaries, forming the muddy coasts and expansive mudflats we see today. Nantong's coastline is part of this.
The mudflats of Tongzhou Bay, with tidal creeks meandering like a painting.
The receding tide leaves patterns, turning the earth into art. The tidal creeks carved by the tides crisscross, creating奇异 diverse textures—like tree branches, brain wrinkles, or lightning streaks... these mudflats are a rare global地貌.
Here, you often see people barefoot, hopping around; as they stomp, razor clams emerge from the mud. This is a popular seaside activity in Nantong, vividly named "Sea Disco." The cheerful crowd is a microcosm, showing that Jiangsu is not only rich in river delicacies but also, through coastal Nantong, boasts a world of fresh seafood from the mudflats, supporting the "Marine Jiangsu" freshness realm.
Fishermen digging for razor clams on Nantong's coastal mudflats.
These mudflats are also incredibly fertile. The reason behind Nantong seafood's confident freshness lies here.
The Yellow Sea and East Sea converge here, with high tides and large tidal ranges concentrating plankton. The Yangtze River brings abundant nutrients, and the moderate latitude provides suitable water temperatures, allowing plankton to thrive, becoming natural feed for fish, shrimp, crabs, and shellfish. The broad mudflats offer a habitat for benthic organisms like razor clams and mud snails, which are both crucial sustenance for migratory birds and the beloved "small seafood" of Nantong people.
Fried pigtail fish, a delicacy from the Yangtze River estuary.
Beyond the mudflats, Nantong also has large fishing ports, with boats ready to set sail. The famous Lüsi Fishing Port is one of China's four major fishing ports, and the nearby Lüsi Fishing Ground is one of the eight largest nationally, abundant with over 2,000 types of seafood like pomfret, large and small yellow croaker, hairtail, swordfish, and jellyfish.
Besides Lüsi Port, Xiaoyangkou Fishing Port is also a national central fishing port. Each fishing season, hundreds of boats compete, returning满载 with fish, shrimp, and crabs. The swimming crabs in October and hairtail in November are unmissable fresh delights in Nantong.
Seafood from the mudflats, shallow seas, and deep oceans all converge in Nantong. If asked about the most profound memory of "freshness" for Nantong people, it must be the razor clam.
"Even if you get slapped, you won't let go of the razor clam and clam soup!"
Compared to common clams like flower clams and butter clams, Nantong clams are much larger in size, with thick and plump flesh. They were highly sought after even in ancient times. Ouyang Xiu of the Song Dynasty and the Zhengde Emperor of the Ming Dynasty both had connections with Nantong clams. By the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Qianlong personally bestowed upon them the title "The World's Most Delicious."
People jump and stomp on the tidal flats to harvest clams.
The "Sea Disco" can only be seen in Nantong.
Nantong people prepare clams with unique ingenuity.
Large clams are used for "stewing," medium-sized ones for "stir-frying," and small clams are best for "drunken" preparations. Clams cooked in their shells can be used in classic dishes like steamed clam egg custard, where clams are nestled among whisked eggs—the custard is silky smooth, and the clams are tender and flavorful. They can also be paired with seasonal vegetables, such as in clam and winter melon soup. The high-water-content winter melon, when stewed with clams, absorbs the freshness and is no longer bland, while the clam soup gains a touch of sweetness.
Steamed clam egg custard: a smooth and tender delicacy on the tip of the tongue.
Photo / maogeweiwu, Image / Huitu.com
If the clams are shelled before cooking, stir-fried clams and sizzling iron plate clams are common preparations. Nantong people call stir-fried clams "jumping clams," meaning they are quickly stir-fried over high heat, making the clams appear to jump around in the wok. The result is plump, juicy, and incredibly tender clams.
Clam cakes: a traditional snack of Nantong people.
Photo / tuan, Image / Huitu.com
What truly reflects the lifestyle of Nantong's fishing communities is the clam cake. In addition to flour and clam meat, some recipes include water chestnut bits, while others use tender loofah. They are pan-fried until golden brown. Take a bite, and you'll experience a crispy exterior and a tender interior, making your taste buds dance. You'll understand why the local saying goes, "After eating clam cakes, all other flavors pale in comparison."
Besides being used in dishes, clams can also enhance the flavor of other foods, which is a major characteristic of Nantong cuisine, especially in Rudong. While Huaiyang cuisine typically uses broth for umami, Rudong people prefer using clams.
"Even if you get slapped, you won't let go of the razor clam and clam soup"—the other "star" of this Nantong proverb is the razor clam. Razor clams and clams are considered the "peerless duo" of Nantong seafood.
Razor clams: another delicious delicacy from the coastal waters.
Photo / User_5c3fd3c7, Image / Tuchong Creative
For fresh razor clams, those with eggs only need their innards removed. Stir-frying or blanching them with the eggs adds a unique flavor. The autumn razor clams, known as "autumn thin ones" by Nantong locals, have整齐 arranged shells, a yellow hue, and no eggs. They are best dried and stewed slowly over low heat until the soup turns white before serving. This "white-stewed dried razor clam" dish is also called "Imperial Concubine Emerging from the Bath." Served with blanched shredded cabbage, egg skin, wood ear mushrooms, and green vegetable stems, the combination of white, green, yellow, and black creates a visual and flavorful masterpiece.
Photo / Azhao, Image / Tuchong Creative
People in Rudong, Nantong, regard razor clams as the premium seafood, often serving them as the leading main course at banquets. Whether for weddings or funerals, regardless of scale or formality, razor clams are essential, and they must always be served as the first dish. Locals call this tradition "razor clam leading the way."
Besides clams and razor clams, another highlight of Nantong seafood cuisine is raw preparation. Of course, this doesn’t mean eating it completely raw—the key lies in the word "drunken," which in the Nantong dialect can also be called "qiang," meaning marinated in alcohol. Under the influence of alcohol, the freshness of the seafood is fully released.
Drunken Crab, crab meat with a wine aroma exudes the pure taste of the sea.
Photo / Political Worker Xia, Image / Tuchong Creativity
Another wave of Nantong seafood comes in a "drunken" form, with the famous "Eight Drunken Delicacies" (including clam, red shrimp, paddy crab, swimming crab, mud snail, lovesick snail, razor clam nose, and mantis shrimp). Among them, the most unforgettable "drunken delicacy" for Nantong locals is the mud snail.
Photo / Ark 224, Image / Tuchong Creativity
Mud snails only inhabit muddy grounds along coastal tidal flats. Despite being called a snail, they are entirely different from hard-shelled sea snails or field snails. They are extremely small, and one as large as a human knuckle is considered rare and plump. Their shells resemble human fingernails but are far less sturdy, easily breaking with slight pressure.
Since mud snails contain a lot of sediment, eating raw marinated mud snails requires some skill. Use chopsticks to grip the small piece of meat protruding from the soft shell, then bite down while using the chopsticks to force the soft shell and the sediment hidden inside to fall away, leaving only the edible meat.
Drunken mud snails are often an acquired taste for first-time outsiders.
Photo / I Am Jin Yun, Image / Tuchong Creativity
When introducing mud snails to friends, Nantong locals always ask, "Do you know how to eat them?" If not, one might end up with a mouthful of sediment and miss out on the tender, smooth texture of the meat. In coastal Nantong households, mud snails are as common as pickled vegetables, often marinated and served as a side dish for congee, adding flavor to everyday life.
Raw marinated drunken seafood is a distinctive feature of Nantong cuisine. Locals also enjoy several other types of seafood "drunken" style. For example, every spring in March and April, when red hairy shrimp are at their plumpest (locally called "hong mang zi"), they are marinated with wine. The aroma of wine and scallions enhances the shrimp's freshness, creating a soft, smooth texture that slides down the throat—a flavor deeply embedded in the memories of Nantong people.
Drunken shrimp, a childhood staple for Nantong locals.
Known as "lai niao xia" in the south and "pi pi xia" in the north, mantis shrimp is called "xia gong" in Nantong. Those without roe are often eaten "drunken" style, juicy and meaty. Since the shrimp is raw, the marinated meat remains tender and sweet, offering a unique freshness.
Seafood is an integral part of life in Nantong. Facing the sea and enjoying seafood, generations of Nantong people have inherited the resilient spirit of the "sea cattle," living steadfastly on the tidal flats. This low-key seafood wonderland adds a distinct maritime flavor to Jiangsu's culinary scene.
Fishermen returning home after harvesting on the endless tidal flats.
Having read this far, why not try some seasonal seafood from Nantong?
Sourced from the deep sea, the golden hook shrimp, with its hook-like shape, is a delicacy people in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai can't afford to miss! This time, we’ve brought you golden hook shrimp from Lüsi Fishing Ground, one of China’s four major fishing grounds, at their peak size. Currently, most of these shrimp have roe along their backs, and the meat is firm, springy, and sweet—a "supreme freshness" privately cherished by locals in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai, now available even for those far away!