Forget Milk Tea, Feasting on Meat Is the Top Priority for Chinese in Autumn!

Autumn is the season for eating meat. Just after the start of autumn, many people have already planned their "autumn fattening" routines. "What to eat for the first big meal of autumn" is a daily topic of interest for many; although the weather hasn’t completely cooled down, it doesn’t dampen the craving for meat. Today, we’ll break down everything about autumn fattening for you in clear detail.

Autumn fattening means eating meat heartily.

The definition of "autumn fattening" in *The Dictionary of Chinese and Foreign Folklore*, edited by folklore authority Zhang Zichen, states: "Autumn fattening, also called ‘grabbing autumn fat’ or ‘supplementing autumn fat’... refers to eating rich and delicious dishes on the first day of autumn to compensate for the body’s depletion during the hot summer. It usually focuses on meat, symbolizing ‘fattening up with meat.’ Dishes like boiled pork, braised pork, and meat-filled dumplings are all excellent choices for autumn fattening."

Autumn is the season for ripe fruits and also for eating meat.

This is a flavorful definition, offering three hearty dishes for the "first big meal of autumn." For modern people, autumn fattening is no longer a survival necessity as in the past but has become more of a seasonal catchphrase and a collective memory carried by food.

Braised pork knuckle vs. grilled meat—which is your pick?

Some theories trace the origin of autumn fattening back to the *Book of Rites* from the Zhou Dynasty. However, regarding Beijing’s tradition, one theory links it to Emperor Hailing of the Jin Dynasty (whose "ancestral home" was in Heilongjiang). After moving the capital to Beijing, he became a strong advocate for pork.

Pork knuckle for autumn fattening owes much to Emperor Hailing’s endorsement.

During the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty, Beijing’s most famous braised pork knuckle shops were Tianfuhao in Xidan and Puyunlou in Dongsi. Puyunlou appeared in Jiang Wen’s movie *Hidden Man* but has since faded into history. Tianfuhao’s braised pork knuckle remains a classic "souvenir" for autumn fattening among old Beijingers. Made with aged broth, it’s savory, tender, fatty but not greasy, and lean but not dry.

Food connoisseur Wang Zengqi offered another option for autumn fattening—grilled meat on a "zhizi" (griddle), which remains popular today.

Back then, a "zhizi" was a round iron griddle with fruitwood burning underneath. Thinly sliced lamb or beef was "mixed by the waiter in a large bowl with seasonings—soy sauce, sesame oil, rice wine, and lots of cilantro, with a little water, then handed to the customer to spread evenly on the griddle with long chopsticks." In Wang’s description, autumn fattening became a DIY delight.

Old Beijing’s grilled meat had "three giants": Kaorou Liu near Huafang Bridge, Kaorou Ji near Shichahai, and Kaorou Wan near Xuanwu Gate. Kaorou Ji specialized in lamb, using premium cuts like the hind leg and ribeye; Kaorou Wan focused on beef, sliced "three inches long, one inch wide, and thin as paper." Kaorou Liu pre-marinated the meat, so no dipping sauce was needed after grilling.

For ordinary Beijing families, the most down-to-earth autumn fattening dish was boiled pork. Originating from Manchu sacrificial rituals, this "boiled white meat" involved simmering pork belly in plain water, slicing it paper-thin, and serving it with leek flower sauce, fermented tofu sauce, or garlic sauce—refreshing, non-greasy, and bursting with flavor, making the start of autumn complete.

Old Beijing boiled pork, enhanced with garlic sauce—refreshing and non-greasy.

Land animals, aquatic creatures, and mountain-grown foods—all can be used for fattening.

Some argue that autumn fattening originated in Northeast China, rooted in Manchu culinary culture.

The Manchu people loved pork. At the start of autumn, they boiled pork in plain water—the precursor to old Beijing’s boiled pork. Earlier, they used black pigs from beyond the Shanhai Pass for "roasting and boiling," with the roasting done over pinewood charcoal, reflecting their hunting traditions. Lesser known is that besides four-legged livestock, the Manchu also ate one-legged mushrooms and no-legged fish for autumn fattening.

More surprisingly, the bold Manchu people of the Northeast even had "vegetarian" fattening in autumn: homegrown cabbage for stews, or foraged mountain vegetables like bracken and mugwort (as mentioned by Su Shi: "mugwort covers the ground, reed shoots are short," which also grows in the Northeast). Since ancient times, autumn fattening has been an important custom for welcoming autumn among the Manchu and Xibe ethnic groups in Liaoning Province.

Bracken, with its meaty texture, is a unique autumn fattening ingredient in the Northeast.

In Liaoning, autumn fattening is also called "eating autumn full." While meat satisfies cravings, carbs are needed to fill up. In places like Haicheng and Jin County, meat noodles are the staple, while in Yixian, dumplings and meat-filled pastries are more common.

However, whether the tradition of eating dumplings to "tie autumn fat" in the rice-dominated Northeast was brought by Shandong migrants during the "Chuang Guandong" period remains unverified. In Shandong, dumplings are commonly eaten on the Start of Autumn day, as the saying goes, "Dumplings for Start of Autumn, noodles for Dog Days." Similar to the phrase "dumplings for departure, noodles for arrival," dumplings serve as a universal "pass" for boarding the "train" of autumn.

The green trains of Northeast China traverse the autumn scenery.

Surprised? Southerners also indulge in "tying autumn fat" with gusto!

In Yancheng, Jiangsu, there is a tradition called "zhù xià" (summer lethargy). During the scorching summer, people lose their appetite, leading to weight loss. Locals often weigh children on hanging scales, as weight was historically a key health indicator. Comparing their weight to that of the Start of Summer determines if they’ve suffered "zhù xià."

Chicken also deserves a place in the autumn fattening feast.

In ordinary Yancheng households, stewed pork is the top choice for "tying autumn fat." More refined families opt for stewed chicken or duck. Braised fish is another popular option.

In Wuxi, the go-to autumn fattening dish, recommended by nearly everyone, is braised spare ribs. These ribs are glazed dark red, rich in flavor, perfectly balanced between sweet and savory. The tender meat is affectionately called "meat bones" by locals.

Wuxi braised spare ribs are all about melt-in-your-mouth tenderness.

Though called "meat bones," this is somewhat misleading—the ribs have far more meat than bone. Historical records show this dish originated during the Guangxu era, initially made from leftover spine and rib bones, seasoned and stewed until tender as a drinking snack. Over time, it evolved into one of Wuxi’s signature dishes, beloved for its soft texture, making it ideal for all ages to indulge in autumn fattening.

In Yangzhou, lion’s head meatballs are a must for autumn fattening. Liang Shiqiu praised this dish in *Talks on Eating in Humble Abode*. The traditional method involves hand-chopping the meat without breaking the fibers, separating lean and fatty cuts. The fat is diced to pomegranate-seed size, translucent and delicate, while the lean meat is cut to matchstick-head size, distinct and even.

Yangzhou lion’s head meatballs make autumn fattening "perfectly round."

Experts debate the ideal fat-to-lean ratio. Yuan Mei’s *Recipes from the Sui Garden* suggests "half fat, half lean, evenly mixed." Liang Shiqiu prefers "70% lean, 30% fat, free of sinew," while Wang Zengqi argues, "those who love fat can opt for 70% fat, 30% lean." With such opposing views, personal taste reigns—comfort is key when fattening up for autumn.

In Huzhou, Zhejiang, the most authentic way to "tie autumn fat" is with lake lamb. Tang Lusun praised it in *Sweet, Sour, Bitter, Spicy, Salty*: "Steamed to fragrant tenderness, rich yet not greasy, unrivaled in Jiangnan." Autumn-fattened lake lamb is stewed in a wood-fired pot until fall-apart tender, glazed in dark sauce, its aroma filling the streets.

Sliced boiled lamb highlights the meat’s natural flavor.

In Huzhou, the only dish rivaling braised lamb for autumn fattening is sliced boiled lamb, locally called "board lamb." Prepared similarly to Wuxi’s pressed lamb, large chunks are simmered under weights to keep them intact. Once chilled and set, it’s sliced into pink, crystal-like strips—tender, bouncy, and intensely aromatic from condensation.

In writer Cui Dairui’s autumn fattening "notes," southern styles are "bold yet refined." Even braised pork has multiple schools: Shanghai’s tender, huadiao wine-infused version; Suzhou’s dark, sweet-but-not-sticky style; Hunan’s glossy, mildly spicy, sugar-colored pork with no soy sauce…

No matter the style, deliciousness is what counts.

In Fujian’s Wuyi Mountains, braised pork for autumn fattening blends refinement with rustic charm. Cooked in an old wood-fired wok, the meat is blanched in Wuyi rock tea to remove gaminess, then simmered with homemade rice wine. The result—a triple-layered aroma of meat, tea, and wine—delivers an unforgettable taste.

For wanderers, autumn fattening tastes like home.

So, where in China serves the best autumn feast? The answer is always hometown.

"Tie Qiu Biao" (Autumn Fattening) is a shared cultural memory across multiple ethnic groups. In modern times of material abundance, it may no longer require a fixed form. Yet this term still carries fresh relevance today—often serving as a joyful excuse to indulge and feast on meat.

After all, compared to the fleeting trend of "the first cup of milk tea in autumn," hearty meat-eating remains the true autumnal tradition for Chinese people!

*Dictionary of Chinese and Foreign Folklore* · Edited by Zhang Zichen

*Flavors of Life* · By Wang Zengqi

*On Eating* · By Liang Shiqiu

*Sweet, Sour, Bitter, Spicy, Salty* · By Tang Lusun