From Mountain Delicacies to Ocean Bounty: How China's Top Dried Goods Province Masters Freshness
Dried goods, the top-tier stars in Fujian's culinary universe!
How do the flavors of Fujian's mountains and seas possess such duality?
On one hand, there's a pursuit of ingredient freshness; on the other, a quest for the lingering aftertaste of transformed ingredients. Dried goods are the ultimate embodiment of this "metamorphosis" of ingredients.
Seafood fried in hot oil is both fragrant and fresh.
In Fujian, it seems almost anything can be turned into dried goods—from seafood to sea vegetables, mushrooms to vegetables, pork to sweet potatoes… The people of Western Fujian even created a renowned combination known as the "Eight Great Dried Delicacies of Western Fujian": some offer enduring flavors; others are sweet and mellow; some are crisp and delicious; while others are wild and rustic. They have stood the test of time, won the hearts of food lovers, and even gained fame far and wide.
The "Eight Great Dried Delicacies of Western Fujian" are just a small part of Fujian's dried goods.
Ninghua dried field mice originally came from catching rodents to protect crops and making the most of the resource.
Countless small seafood and humble fruits and vegetables are transformed into versatile dried goods in Fujian, becoming a cornerstone of Fujian's flavors.
Fujian is abundant with seafood, but if you ask a Fujianese friend about signature dishes featuring dried seafood, they might reply: "Few, because we have fresh ones." Thus, dried seafood had to find another path: if it can't be the main dish, it'll become a seasoning or side dish!
The "Three Musketeers" of dried seafood are none other than dried small shrimp, dried shrimp, and dried prawns.
Though dried small shrimp may be tiny, they pack a powerful taste of the sea.
Just a pinch added to soup or a few dried shrimp stirred into a dish can infuse the broth or food with an unmistakable oceanic aroma. Dried prawns, after basking in the sun, take on a weathered richness, which pairs perfectly with the traditional Putian braised noodles. When a sudden craving strikes, grabbing some dried prawns and scallops, chopping up cabbage and cilantro, can recreate the homely taste of Putian braised noodles.
Putian braised noodles, with their rich array of ingredients, are full of warmth.
Mussels, razor clams, clams, and scallops—though often overlooked as common seafood in Fujian—are given new roles by the locals through drying and sun-curing.
Small mussels, which lack punch when steamed or stir-fried, are condensed through drying into petite dried mussels. Larger thick-shelled mussels yield sizable meat that can be made into "butterfly dried mussels." Adding just two or three slices to soup or noodles enhances the umami flavor.
Dried mussels, dried scallops, and dried razor clams are all commonly consumed dried seafood in Fujian.
Scallops finally get their moment to shine in Fujian: kicking aside garlic and tossing off vermicelli, they transform into dried scallops and become incredibly versatile. They can mingle with new friends like rice porridge, chicken soup, tofu, and seasonal vegetables, or join forces with dried prawns, shiitake mushrooms, and chestnuts to stuff Southern Fujian's hearty meat zongzi.
Southern Fujian's braised meat zongzi, filled with dried scallops and dried abalone.
As for the scallop skirt, this by-product can either dance wildly in a wok with peppers, celery, and scallions, or join the floating ranks of dried small shrimp and dried shrimp, finding joy in soup pots and stews.
Steamed chicken soup with dried scallops—double the freshness.
"Because there are fresh ones," the city of dried seafood was conquered by unassuming small fish.
Among dried fish, the Japanese jack mackerel has secured its position as the top dried small fish through "strength in numbers." A popular Fujianese drinking snack—fried dried Japanese jack mackerel—is enjoyed one bite at a time, full of flavor.
Dried Japanese jack mackerel being sun-dried on Dongshan Island.
During busy times, wind-dried sardines can be paired directly with a bowl of plain congee. The natural savory umami of seafood blends with the mild sweetness of the congee, like a gentle sea breeze awakening dormant fishing boats.
During leisure hours, a pressure cooker is used to soften the bones of various small dried fish before they are tossed into hot oil. With minimal seasoning, a plate of fried small dried fish—perfect for Fujianese to enjoy with a leisurely drink—is ready.
Frying allows both freshness and aroma to burst forth.
Even the international garden city of Xiamen has willingly become a "lilac garden" for the silver sprats under the delicious攻势 of small dried fish—dried juvenile silver sprats are white as jade and stack up like clusters of lilac flowers.
Xiamen was once Fujian's primary production area for silver sprats. People mix them into egg batter, and the stir-fried eggs gain a chewy texture; or they simply stir-fry the silver sprats with chili peppers and fermented black beans for the joy of eating a "side dish" in big mouthfuls. In recent years, some Sichuan restaurants have added fried silver sprats as a side to spicy chicken, creating a fusion delight.
Chopped silver sprats cooked with eggs are highly nutritious.
While fresh seafood is hard to preserve, dried cuttlefish and squid offer their own unique flavors—stir-fried, stewed in soup, or sliced and cooked with rice—are perfectly ordinary home ingredients in the minds of Fujianese.
How many bowls can you eat of dried squid and radish rice?
Seaweed, kelp, and agar are also extremely common dried goods in Fujian.
The seaweed from the stunning coastline of Xiapu transforms the beauty of its homeland into its own freshness, remaining tender and smooth even after drying, unmatched by other seaweeds; Pingtan's zicai seaweed hides a rich aroma within its dark hue, lingering on the palate like the lasting memory of Pingtan's scenery.
Seaweed is produced in many parts of Fujian; fishermen are here harvesting it.
Due to its high产量 and availability in every household, Fujianese have creatively incorporated seaweed into countless dishes.
In soups, cold salads, fried rice, omelets, rice balls, zongzi, stir-fried with shrimp, fried as a side dish, cooked in clay pots with oysters, eggs, or lean meat, and even used as filling for dumplings or buns...
Fried rice with oysters and seaweed—a savory, homely flavor.
Almost whenever desired, seaweed can appear in any dish made by Fujianese. Even combinations like seaweed with dried shrimp in flat wontons are enjoyed from northern to southern Fujian, remarkably unifying the province.
Dried sea moss and kelp sprouts may not be as famous, but their natural crispness and cool texture make them exceptionally talented as drinking snacks. In another form, sea moss commonly appears as an ingredient in Four Fruits Soup, a summer beverage loved by Southern Fujianese for relieving heat.
The Four Fruits Soup of Southern Fujianese, rich in ingredients, also includes the incarnation of sea moss.
Fujianese people who love seafood find that dried goods extend and deepen the taste of the sea.
The Wuyi Mountains form another boundary of Fujian, and Fujian’s dried goods naturally reserve half their charm for the wild mountains. The mountainous regions of the Eight Min region provide a paradise for diverse fungi to thrive.
Located at the southern end of the Jiufeng Mountain Range, Ningde’s Gutian County—with its layered peaks and misty clouds—was quickly embraced by silver ear mushrooms, which only migrated here in the 1960s. The mist nourishes the fungus, and the mountain breeze carries its essence. Gutian silver ear has become a Chinese National Geographical Indication product, transforming into sticky, translucent silver ear soup that warms the hearts of food lovers at home and abroad.
Fresh Gutian silver ear mushrooms being cultivated, pure as jade.
However, silver ear is not the only delicacy carrying the wild fragrance of the mountains.
People in Sanming’s Jiangle County discovered bamboo fungus traces in the wild early on and brought this crispness hidden in grass and under trees into thousands of soup bowls. The oyster mushrooms from Fuzhou’s Luoyuan County, known as “real MSG mushrooms,” along with seafood mushrooms from Nanping’s Shunchang, navigate between hot pots and stir-fries, balancing richness and freshness.
Bamboo fungus cultivated in Fujian’s mountainous regions is perfect for stewing in soup.
There’s also Wuyi Mountain’s dragon claw fungus, which resembles a cat’s paw; the jade ear fungus, hidden away like a noble lady; pear mushrooms without a pear flavor; red mushrooms with their naturally festive red hue; and shredded shiitake mushrooms that Northern wet markets could never quite understand…
Thanks to the ideal environment of “80% mountains, 10% water, and 10% farmland,” coastal Fujian also excels in mountain flavors.
Red mushroom soup boasts a beautiful natural color.
In Western Fujian, dried goods are not just “mountain flavors”—they are also Hakka flavors. Dried tofu, dried radish, dried bamboo shoots, and dried vegetables from the “Eight Great Dried Goods of Western Fujian” are all outstanding representatives of Hakka cuisine.
Changting dried tofu, refined over generations by the people of Tingzhou, is dyed yellow with gardenia water and infused with star anise, licorice, cinnamon, clove, and soy sauce. Whether as a snack or a late-night dish paired with drinks, its rich flavor makes it a top choice for many Fujianese.
Changting dried tofu—so delicious you can’t stop at one bite.
Shanghang dried radish and Qingliu dried bamboo shoots, with their versatile nature, have long been staples in Fujian home cooking.
Dried radish, sun-dried and cured, brings its own savory saltiness—perfect with congee. With sugar and vinegar, it becomes a tangy appetizer. Added to soup, it enhances the broth’s flavor. In stir-fries, it lends a cured taste. Fried until drier, it awakens a hint of spiciness, making it a great dish for drinks.
Shanghang dried radish—the ideal companion for congee.
Dried bamboo shoots offer a crisp, chewy texture and a bamboo fragrance that ranges from subtle to rich. This aroma pairs perfectly with fatty pork. In a stew of dried bamboo shoots and pork, the richness is cut by the bamboo shoots, and the pork becomes a supporting actor.
Dried bamboo shoots complement meat well and help cut through greasiness.
Yongding dried vegetables, dried lettuce, dried Jerusalem artichoke, dried bitter cabbage, dried fern shoots, dried sesame leaves, green仁 black beans… Many Fujian vegetables have a dried version.
Even the nuts of the bitter oak tree, which seem unappealing even to squirrels, can be transformed by Fujianese hands into dried bitter oak nuts. Soaked and stir-fried with pork belly, chili, ginger, and garlic, they create a farm-style dish so fragrant it can captivate visitors from afar.
In Shaxian County's Jinghou Village, villagers dry radishes, mustard greens, and other vegetables in their old houses.
In a large southern province like Fujian, fruits can certainly withstand the trials of wind and sun.
Putian's longan, true to the Putian people's pursuit of authentic flavor, develops a richer aroma after drying than when fresh. It offers a unique taste whether brewed in tea, used in soups, or eaten directly; Xiahe's starfruit condenses the dew and rain of Yunxiao, carving out a new world for preserved fruits; Shanghang's smoked dark plums carry the sweetness of local mountain springs and the fragrance of Longyan's flora...
A bowl of longan and lotus seed soup sweetens the heart.
Whether fresh or dried, Fujian people who love the taste of their hometown want it all.
Although the history of development in the land of the Eight Min is not as long as that of the Central Plains, it is full of vitality and driven by the hardworking people of Fujian. As they labored diligently, filling dried foods quickly emerged and became widely popular.
When it comes to filling foods, Xinghua rice noodles and Hutou rice noodles are equally matched in the world of rice noodles.
The vibrant Nixia loach rice noodles warm the heart with every bite.
The former became a famous dish as early as the Song Dynasty, a must-have household item perennially popular among the people; the latter made its way to the imperial table in the early Qing Dynasty, causing a stir among Beijing's elite. Both can be boiled or stir-fried, and can even be prepared like Putian's soybean milk fried rice noodles—boiled first and then fried. They withstand casual combinations by kitchen novices and stand up to the scrutiny of discerning foodies.
Soybean milk fried rice noodles—such a unique combination is a must-try.
But when it comes to both filling and refined, Fuzhou's thread noodles are the most versatile. Extremely thin and long, a bowl of Fuzhou thread noodles steeped in broth could make even Song Dynasty literati cast aside their restraint and exclaim: "A bowl morning and night does no harm; even the elixir of immortality pales in comparison."
Racks of Fuzhou thread noodles shimmer like silver threads and fine gauze in the sunlight.
As the big brother among the "Eight Great Dried Foods of Western Fujian," Liancheng sweet potato dried may not look like a staple food, but it once shouldered more responsibility than rice or noodles in supporting families. Sweet potatoes long served as a key staple for Fujian people, and sweet potato starch became a household essential. Sweet potato dried became a way for Liancheng people to find joy amid hardship.
Liancheng sweet potato dried—Fujian people all say it's good~
Fortunately, life's bitterness eventually turned into the sweetness of sweet potato dried: cooking it with congee offers a unique flavor; deep-processed sweet potato sheets and starch cores, when stir-fried with side dishes, can compete directly with noodles.
Braised pork with sweet potato sheets—a Fujian flavor not to be missed.
Blending creativity with adaptability, Fujian people have also infused dried foods with some surprising delights.
Pork floss, now universally regarded as a pairing for bread, was once a specialty porridge topping in Fuzhou; abundant plump fish from the sea are chopped, sliced, and dried to become long-lasting wind-dried fish noodles; the current snack industry's "top trend," pork jerky, has actually been popular in Fujian for six or seven hundred years; Ninghua dried field mouse (originally caught to protect crops and utilized fully), the pinnacle of "dark cuisine," is only for the truly brave to try.
In Quanzhou, Fujian, salty rice is topped generously with pork floss.
The sea and the mountains are the source of Fujian's delicious flavors. But year after year of typhoons, the difficulty of carving paths through mountains, and struggles with the land, sea, and wind have ingrained a deep sense of resilience into the bones of Fujian people.
Stockpiling goods, especially well-preserved dried foods, became a tradition in the lives of ancient Fujian people and has evolved into a dietary habit for modern Fujianese. Rather than living in constant fear of food shortages, they took preventive measures by turning surplus into dried goods that could be stored longer, thus securing their own food supply.
Guangde Village, Anxi County, Quanzhou City, Fujian Province—drying traditional persimmons into cakes.
In facing life, dried goods were once Fujian people’s indispensable preparation for rainy days. Now, these uniquely flavored dried foods seem more like delightful surprises used to embellish life. Though fresh ingredients are never in short supply, some family recipes require the addition of dried goods to carry on the tradition.
After all, no matter how far one journeys, the dried foods that have accompanied generations through mountains and seas will always taste like home.
Fishermen are drying salted eels—another bountiful season.
Header image source | Visual China Group