Hidden in Western Hunan: How Many Culinary Secrets Remain Untold?

The mystical Xiangxi, profound and enigmatic.

It is the borderland depicted by Shen Congwen, the fertile ground for the inheritance of shamanic Nuo culture, and a "cultural safe" where diverse ethnic cultures coexist.

What further piques the world's curiosity is that it lies not only on the magical 30°N golden winemaking belt but also boasts the unique distinction of being China's sole producer of the "Fuyu" aroma-style baijiu.

The meandering Li River flows from Sangzhi, winding its way a thousand times before merging into Dongting Lake.

A hundred brews converge into richness, a marvel shaped by nature. Here lies the flavor code co-created by heaven and earth, worthy of our exploration and rediscovery.

Gaze upon Xiangxi, understand Xiangxi, savor Xiangxi.

Perhaps only by delving deep into Xiangxi's natural geography and local culture, and truly deciphering its flavor code, can we fully comprehend why Xiangxi is Xiangxi.

Baijiu is perhaps the most regionally distinctive product across China's vast land.

Whether bold and unrestrained, subtle and elegant, delicate and lingering, or rich and colorful, it vividly interprets the local customs and landscapes of different regions through its diverse styles.

The Miao villages nestled in the valleys of Xiangxi, surrounded by mountains.

Baijiu achieves this interpretation thanks to the masterful work of microbial communities unique to each region. These invisible "master brewers," aided by local mountains, waterways, temperature, humidity, and natural ecology, craft distinctive local spirits.

As the saying goes, "The land shapes its people, and the land brews its wine"—a truth both profound and wondrous.

For instance, the 30°N latitude, which traverses China, has shaped miraculous natural and cultural landscapes, outlining an astonishing golden belt for baijiu production.

Yet within this belt, one hidden gem stands out. Not only has it long been a quintessential region of China's mysterious culture, but its microbial communities have also birthed the originator of China's "Fuyu" aroma-style baijiu—Jiuguijiu, renowned for its "three aromas and nine nuances, with a wondrous fragrance beyond the three."

This is the mystical Xiangxi, a land that has captivated and amazed since ancient times.

Heaven favors Xiangxi, for how else could such a paradise on earth, nourished by its landscapes, exist? The Wuling and Xuefeng Mountains serve as the grand gates shaping this hidden realm.

The Wuling Mountains, guarding Xiangxi's western gate.

When Siberian cold fronts sweep southward, aiming to chill the southern lands, the Wuling Mountains stand firm, blocking the cold air and preserving the winter warmth of Xiangxi's heartland.

And when the tropical high-pressure systems from the Pacific charge forth, the Xuefeng and Leigong Mountains join forces to repel the heat, shielding Xiangxi from summer's scorching waves.

Beyond the mountains' shaping, do not forget the water's carving.

The surface waters represented by the Yuan and Li Rivers, along with the scattered underground water systems, have eroded and deposited soluble rocks in western Hunan, aided by natural processes such as gravitational collapse, subsidence, and accumulation, collectively sculpting the karst landscape of the region.

The karst landforms have endowed western Hunan with a divinely crafted natural beauty.

Underground rivers and caves are scattered across the mountains, meticulously carved by nature's forces, while the dense water networks equip western Hunan with the most intricate and complex water-cooled temperature regulation system.

Blessed and shaped by nature, this region enjoys an annual average temperature of 17.7°C, an average annual precipitation of 1,375.5 mm, and a relative humidity of 81%.

Such climatic conditions have not only preserved world-renowned relic plants like metasequoia, dove tree, and ginkgo in this secluded paradise but also allowed rare protected animals such as clouded leopards, snow leopards, and white cranes to thrive here.

The metasequoia forest at Changtangang, Fenghuang County, western Hunan.

Moreover, countless invisible microbial populations flourish under such temperature, humidity, and hydrological conditions, granting western Hunan a harmonious natural environment ideal for brewing.

The natural wisdom embedded in this land has long been understood by the people of western Hunan. Building on this harmony, they have crafted the richly fragrant Jiugui liquor with their ingenuity, creating a legend of unparalleled excellence.

A miracle born of nature, co-created by heaven and humanity.

A secluded paradise remains so precisely because of its natural geography, undisturbed and uninvaded by the outside world. Western Hunan's unique character stems from its "90% mountains, 5% water, and 5% farmland" terrain.

This "remote and enclosed" trait, viewed from the perspective of ancient central plains dynasties, has now surprisingly become a "cultural safe-deposit box" under the lens of diverse coexistence.

The fiery-hearted people of western Hunan dance with steel-fire dragons.

Thus, western Hunan is not only a secluded paradise but also a delightful wonderland.

Archaeological findings reveal that by the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods at the latest, the ancestors of western Hunan had already developed customs of brewing and drinking. Qin Dynasty bamboo slips unearthed in Liye, Longshan, further confirm that "wine" was the most important sacrificial offering in the You River basin during the Qin era.

In this land, wine embodies joy, exuberance, sincerity, ritual, a medium connecting heaven and earth, and the crystallization of wisdom in harmony with nature.

The millennia-old wine culture of western Hunan can be glimpsed not only in ancient bronze vessels and historical texts but also directly savored in a cup of richly aromatic Jiugui liquor.

So, how does Jiugui liquor achieve its "astonishingly fragrant" aroma?

As mentioned earlier, microorganisms are invisible master brewers. Though "too tiny to see," they are the creators of baijiu's flavor compounds—their types and quantities directly determine the liquor's taste, quality, and yield.

Traces of microorganisms are everywhere at the Jiugui liquor factory.

Yet these "little creatures" are highly sensitive—temperature, humidity, mountains, water systems, and wind all significantly impact their growth. Thus, different regional climates and ecological resources impose divinely ordained constraints on local microbial populations.

The natural endowment of the Jiugui Liquor factory's location is exceptionally favorable.

It is precisely due to these limiting conditions that Xiangxi has the most solid natural foundation for becoming the birthplace of the "Fuyu Aroma" type of baijiu.

Xiangxi, located in western Hunan, is surrounded by the Wuling and Xuefeng mountain ranges and the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, with river systems like the Yuan and Li intertwining here. Thus, Xiangxi also lies on a rare "three natural belts" in China, making it an extremely favorable growth haven for microorganisms.

The Wuling and Xuefeng mountains encircle Xiangxi, shielding it from the intrusion of cold and warm air masses. The abundant water systems like the Yuan and Li rivers provide ample water resources and moist airflows, creating a climate-friendly microbial fermentation belt that is neither too cold in winter nor too hot in summer.

Coupled with Xiangxi's proud natural ecological resources, this region also lies within a plant-rich linolenic acid belt and a selenium-rich soil belt. These conditions create a unique natural environment that fosters the diversity of microbial communities.

In the fermentation workshop of the Jiugui Liquor factory, microorganisms are brewing fine liquor in the fermentation pits.

It is precisely this diversity of microbial communities that allows the flavor substances of the "three aromas and nine notes" in Fuyu Aroma to fully blend, using the natural terroir and microbial diversity to achieve the divine miracle of "heaven and man co-brewing."

Indeed, the unique microbial species nurtured by Xiangxi's unparalleled natural environment may have maintained flavor codes distinct from other baijiu-producing regions for centuries.

Qu (fermentation starter) is the key to forming the flavor substances of Chinese baijiu.

After fully deciphering these flavor codes, the people of Xiangxi, with their ingenuity and adherence to the laws of nature, brewed the astonishingly fragrant Jiugui Liquor of Fuyu Aroma.

The laws of nature are gifts bestowed by heaven—naturally nurtured and divinely blessed:

The location of the Jiugui Liquor factory, "Zhenwuying, Jishou City," is the northern gateway of Jishou, with over 300 days of excellent air quality annually, showcasing its clear ecological advantages.

Qu is the "bone" of liquor. The unique small basin climate of the Trumpet Valley near the Jiugui Liquor factory creates a mild and humid environment for Qu-making and brewing, while the slightly acidic local soil further promotes the growth of brewing microorganisms.

Water is the "blood" of liquor—wherever fine liquor is produced, there must be excellent springs. The three clear springs near the Jiugui Liquor factory flow ceaselessly, rich in various mineral elements essential for the human body, providing high-quality water for brewing.

Grain is the "flesh" of liquor. China's vast territory features diverse soils, climates, and water sources, resulting in distinct characteristics for the same crops across regions. Jiugui Liquor's selection of sorghum, glutinous rice, wheat, rice, and corn for multi-grain brewing adds robust "muscle" to the Fuyu Aroma.

Multi-grain brewing enriches the body of Jiugui Liquor.

To achieve a cup of lingering, richly fragrant fine liquor, in addition to the meticulous brewing process, post-brewing aging is an indispensable key.

The unique karst caves of Xiangxi are a rare natural wonder, providing Jiugui Liquor with ideal cave storage conditions. Compared to ordinary storage, the constant temperature and humidity of caves are more conducive to forming a microbial environment, ultimately perfecting the aging of Jiugui Liquor.

No wonder brewing experts exclaim, "It's hard to brew Fuyu Aroma baijiu outside Xiangxi."

Fine liquor requires cave storage to attain the nourishment of constant temperature, humidity, and microorganisms.

On the foundation of fully understanding the laws of nature, craftsmen in Xiangxi further harnessed their ingenuity to adapt these principles, spending half a century in continuous exploration and innovation to ultimately develop a masterful brewing technique hailed as "a collaboration between heaven and man."

Since the establishment of Jishou Distillery in 1956, the factory invited eight top master brewers from Xiangxi, each leading a team and showcasing their unique skills.

By 1976, the distillery formed a task force to innovate premium liquor techniques. After over 700 days and 75 iterative improvements, the prototype of the "Fuyu Aroma" process took shape in 1978.

In 2005, 15 baijiu experts jointly certified Jiugui Liquor as China's only Fuyu Aroma baijiu, recognizing it as an innovative fragrance type.

Later, on March 9, 2021, the national standard for Fuyu Aroma baijiu was issued, officially taking effect on April 1, 2022.

Thus, Fuyu Aroma baijiu was formally listed as one of China's eleven national standard baijiu fragrance types, marking a monumental chapter in Chinese baijiu history for the people of Xiangxi.

Fuyu Aroma baijiu owes its existence to the inheritance of the "Hundred-Brewing Craft."

This intricate "Hundred-Brewing Craft," comprising 173 complex processes, is regarded by the industry as the most sophisticated brewing system in Chinese baijiu. Its unique "13526" process code includes multiple key steps exclusive to Jiugui Liquor.

"Though brewing is laborious, no effort is spared." Jiugui brewers, attuned to nature's ways and wielding their craftsmanship, ultimately create this sublime liquor—a harmonious blend of aged, cellar, honey, and roasted aromas, elegant and exquisitely balanced.

What exactly is Fuyu Aroma?

Among the diverse fragrance types of Chinese baijiu, some favor the rich sweetness of Strong Aroma, others the clean softness of Light Aroma, and still others the mellow depth of Sauce Aroma—preferences vary widely.

Yet seasoned connoisseurs, tempered by time and worldly experience, will smile knowingly after a sip of Fuyu Aroma baijiu, for in its layered fragrance, they taste a resonance with life's philosophy.

This "sublime state" reflects not only Jiugui's culture and philosophy but also a realm pursued by literati, artists, and all who seek beauty—a culmination of relentless exploration leading to literary, artistic, and life's finest moments.

Indeed, this is what sets Fuyu Aroma apart: it combines the strengths of Strong, Light, and Sauce Aromas while encompassing nine additional notes like spring earth, fruit, greenery, and floral, earning its "Three Fragrances, Nine Nuances" distinction.

When you quiet your mind and savor Fuyu Aroma, you'll uncover why Jiugui captivates connoisseurs.

Smell is the most potent and direct trigger of long-dormant memories. Uncork a bottle of Fuyu Aroma Jiugui, and you might catch the wild scent of mountain kiwifruit or the tropical allure of pineapple.

Your mind may recall simpler times—perhaps a childhood afternoon sweetened by wild kiwifruit—or an adult memory of a seaside evening with a loved one, bathed in ocean breezes.

Next, layers of floral, fruity, green, honey, and earthy aromas unfold, teasing your nostrils like the rising climaxes of a riveting play.

At this point, you'll realize mere scent can no longer satisfy your craving for this exquisite brew.

A small sip sends velvety sweetness spreading across your tongue—a refined, transformative mellowness that blooms like fireworks, then lingers like a gentle night rain, saturating every taste bud.

After another sip, the mouth feels as if holding a tender, bouncy fruit jelly—a fullness brought by rich flavor compounds and aged maturation. Aromatic substances continuously wash over the oral walls and tongue, making one hesitant to bite down, lest it disrupts this lingering smoothness.

At this moment, the tongue root and throat protest: how can this fragrant nectar linger only in the mouth and on the tongue? Only by letting its richness permeate every part of the body can it be truly shared equally.

The wine doesn’t intoxicate—it’s the drinker who loses themselves; the charm here is simply unparalleled.

So you swallow this fragrant essence, the silky and delicate liquor gliding lightly past the throat, leaving not a trace behind. Your esophagus then unfolds like Pangu splitting heaven and earth: the liquor descends, while the sauce aroma and aged fragrance slowly rise, with roasted and herbal notes soaring from the esophagus into the skies, gradually swirling and deeply diffusing in the mouth and nasal cavity.

This multi-dimensional tasting experience is like a symphony feast collectively attended by your lips, teeth, tongue tip, tongue root, throat, esophagus, and nasal cavity.

How fortunate, a brew of heaven and man! How fortunate, the rich Xiangxi!

Perhaps by now, you’ve deciphered Xiangxi through the secrets of its richness. What makes Xiangxi itself lies in the shaping of time and place, as well as the bold, sincere, and tenacious innovative expression of its people—creating in harmony with heaven’s will.

The wondrous realm of Xiangxi carries a beauty that’s natural and symbiotic, a unity of heaven and man.

Graphics | Jiuyang, Liu Yunpeng

Uncredited images in the text are provided by Jiugui Liquor.