How China's Steamed Cuisine Capital Won Over the Nation's Workforce

How did "steaming" conquer all of China?

Many people's initial geographical understanding of Hunan was shaped by a widely beloved folk song: "The Liuyang River winds through several bends, spanning dozens of miles of waterways to the Xiangjiang—"

Along this meandering Liuyang River lies a small town of the same name, intertwined with its waters. Like the river, though modest in size, its presence has never been overshadowed: the city's fireworks displays dazzle both banks of the Xiang River during festivals, earning it global fame as the "Fireworks Capital"; it is also an open-air red museum, where revolutionary forebears embody the Hunan spirit of "enduring hardship and persevering stubbornly"; and amid the rising steam from countless pots on its streets, a humble culinary delight beloved by 60 million Hunanese was born—Liuyang steamed dishes.

When people think of Hunan cuisine, they often picture the stir-fry chains found nationwide, unaware that the earliest "culinary ambassador" to break out, the chopped pepper fish head, is actually a classic steamed dish. This seemingly ordinary technique of "steaming" has evolved into an art form in Liuyang, earning the city titles like "Hometown of Chinese Steamed Cuisine" from the China Cuisine Association and recognition as a "Collective Geographical Indication Trademark." Here, all kinds of cured meats, poultry, and freshwater delicacies can be steamed, with every household's bamboo steamers hiding vibrant universes of flavor—fresh, spicy, salty, and fragrant, all harmoniously contained. Today, Liuyang steamed dishes, like stir-fries, have expanded beyond Hunan, gaining popularity nationwide. Their quick and convenient preparation also inspires young people to create "one-pot" meals, making them a new kitchen favorite for busy workers.

Beyond steamed dishes, every local snack bearing the "Liuyang" name is a culinary masterpiece. The silky-smooth Liuyang rice noodles soothe empty morning stomachs, while Liuyang snails are a must-have for Hunan nightlife... Just how amazing is eating in Liuyang?

The 500-Year Evolution of Liuyang Steamed Dishes

Unlike Hunan-style stir-fries, Liuyang steamed dishes aren't purely of Hunan origin. Legend has it that during the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, as Zhu Yuanzhang's forces clashed with Chen Youliang, Hakka people from Guangdong and Jiangxi fled north to Hunan, settling near Liuyang's Dawei Mountain. To conceal their presence, they used nearby spring water to prepare steamed meals with minimal smoke, layering dishes and rice in steamers—a practice that was both discreet and time-saving, marking the birth of Liuyang steamed cuisine.

Over time, the Hakka influence on steamed dishes in Liuyang faded, with flavors increasingly aligning with Hunan cuisine under the region's culinary sway. Locals skillfully incorporate regional ingredients, like the pungent fermented Liuyang black beans, which add a unique umami when sprinkled atop steamed dishes. Paired with local chopped peppers, they shatter the stereotype of steamed food as bland, delivering a fiery kick. Tea oil, a staple in many Hunan kitchens, joins black beans and chopped peppers as the "three treasures" of Liuyang steaming. A drizzle of tea oil blends steam and fat perfectly, creating a tender, glossy texture distinct from stir-fries.

As a daily staple, steamed dishes infuse life into generations of Liuyang families. Children returning from school are greeted with hot meals, and when everyone is home, mothers lift the massive steamer lids, filling the house with aromatic steam. In local eateries, stacks of affordable steamed dishes (as cheap as a few yuan per plate) draw crowds during mealtimes, especially factory workers. A few plates of meat and veggies, shared over lively chatter, kickstart the day.

Liuyang steamed dishes excel not just in speed but also in democratizing gourmet dining. Meats are served in small, affordable portions, ideal for modern "solo dining." With a spread of options, a satisfying meal costs just over ten yuan—earning Liuyang steamed cuisine the title of Hunan's "Sha County snacks," beloved for being economical and delicious.

Moreover, steaming is healthy and low-oil. Unlike the guilt of multiple stir-fry meals, steamed dishes offer balance, blending Hunan's bold flavors with the gentleness of a riverside town.

Just How Many Delicacies Can Steaming Create?

Though reliant on steam's magic, Liuyang steaming demands precision. Locals master heat control—a time-honed skill. Authentic eateries prep at dawn, steaming dishes slowly in small bowls to lock in freshness. Pepper usage varies: wrinkled peppers for cured meats, aged chopped peppers for vinegar-steamed chicken. Before eating, a good mix ensures even seasoning.

Vinegar-steamed chicken's brilliance unfolds in the steamer. Experts tenderize the meat with knife backs, letting it relax. After 30 minutes, rice vinegar's tang and local red peppers infuse the chicken, delivering a sweat-inducing thrill.

Unlike the chicken's zest, black bean and dried pepper ribs offer deep savoriness. The peppers and beans are oil-fried for aroma, then poured over ribs to seep slowly. Once steamed, each rib glistens, rich and unforgettable.

Steaming also marries meats and veggies. Salted greens shine in steamed pork, their fragrance enhanced without sourness. Dried cowpeas in pork dishes often steal the show, oil-soaked and chewy, outshining the meat. Fresh taro with ribs yields rare lightness.

Hunan's love for cured meats peaks in "assorted cured steam," a banquet centerpiece. Parboiled cured pork, fish, and duck unite in the steamer, the meat softening into tender perfection—each bite sublime.

By the river, Liuyang locals excel at steaming fish. Salt-cured fish emerges savory; hairy knife fish melts on the tongue; fire-dried fish balances crisp and fluffy textures—irresistibly bingeable.

Veggies hold their own. Thin-sliced Liuyang dried tofu, topped with lard crumbs, gains extra richness. Seasonal picks—summer squash, eggplant, bitter melon; autumn chestnuts, pumpkin; winter radish—write nature's edible calendar.

Mornings call for steamed meatloaf with egg, a hearty layer of minced meat crowned by a fried egg, or silky steamed egg custard—best mixed with rice, a homely comfort.

What motivates Liuyang locals to get out of bed each morning, besides steaming hot dishes, is the rich aroma of rice noodles. Beyond the common flat and round varieties, Liuyang rice noodles include a thinner type called "zha fen" or "za fen" by locals, which absorbs broth flavors more intensely. Those who leave their hometown often fondly recall the comforting warmth of this delicate noodle.

At stir-fried topping noodle shops, every topping is freshly wok-tossed. Sizzling stir-fried pork or kidney piled atop the noodles gives Liuyang people the energy to face a new day.

As night falls, Liuyang's dining tables transform. Hunanese adore snails, and Liuyang's Guanduo snails are notably large with unique flavors. The green specks in the bowl are mint, chives, and perilla leaves, which—along with various seasonings—imbue the snails with extraordinary taste. Each snail is removed, cleaned, and stuffed back into its shell before being steamed thoroughly in the local style, creating this rustic-yet-refined late-night classic.

Liuyang's streets are equally vibrant. Slow-cooked deli meats steeped in aged brine and neatly stacked smoked tofu exuding primal firewood aromas are inseparable from locals' nostalgia.

The culinary soul of Liuyang is ordinary yet irreplicable. The mist rising between its mountains and waters unlocks endless possibilities for Hunan cuisine's brilliance.

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Cover & header image | Liao Meili