How Did Guangdong's Most Decentralized City Produce the God of Clay Pot Rice?

Jiangmen, Guangdong's Hidden Culinary King!

On the first day of the Dragon Boat Festival holiday, the number of travelers passing through the Shenzhen-Hong Kong land ports hit a new record, with 829,800 inbound and outbound passengers in a single day. Scrolling through social media, Hong Kongers "heading north for food and fun" has become a new trend. Among the favored destinations, besides the well-known Shenzhen and Guangzhou, is a culturally diverse city known as the "First Hometown of Overseas Chinese"—

Many might not have a clear idea of Jiangmen, but last year's hit drama "The Knockout" gave people a vivid memory of this small Guangdong city. Like the city itself, it might not come to mind immediately. But true food connoisseurs light up at the mention of Taishan eel rice, Gujing roast goose, Xinhui dried tangerine peel, and Duruan bitter melon.

They say "eat in Guangdong," and in this province, any city's delicious food is no surprise. Yet, precisely because of this, any dish that earns province-wide acclaim is no small feat. Jiangmen, low-key to the point of being "invisible," has quietly become a hub for top-tier cuisine, thanks to its unique natural bounty:

Dishes like Taishan eel rice, the "king of rice" that's only authentic when labeled "Taishan"; Taishan eel rice made with "soft gold of the water," eel, with an annual output value of 6.34 billion yuan; Kaiping Magang goose, one of Guangdong's four famous geese, seasoned with Xinhui dried tangerine peel to make Gujing roast goose. There's also Muzhou yellow sand clams, Gulao fish skin dumplings, Enping lè vegetables, Chikan tofu cubes, Waihai noodles, and other regionally distinct delicacies.

Jiangmen, located on the west bank of the Pearl River Delta, is named for its resemblance to a gate, formed by Yandun Mountain and Penglai Mountain flanking the Pengjiang River.

Formed by river alluvium, with vast plains and abundant light, heat, and water resources under a subtropical maritime monsoon climate, Jiangmen is a renowned "land of fish and rice" in the Pearl River Delta. Here, one-sixth of the Greater Bay Area's land produces one-third of its grain, with Taishan, hailed as "China's hometown of premium silk seedling rice," elevating even a simple bowl of rice to an art form.

Taishan, close to the coast, boasts three major fishing ports—Hengshan, Guanghai, and Shadi. In winter and spring, enjoy plump and succulent Taishan oysters; in summer, savor rich and nourishing Taishan eel; in autumn, indulge in Taishan blue crabs brimming with roe. Yet, among its many nationally recognized agricultural products, Taishan locals hold a special place for the once-ubiquitous eel.

In Taishan's Shuibu Town, the best way to enjoy eel is in a clay pot rice. Local eels, about finger-thick, are steamed whole, then gently stripped of their bones. The eel meat is shredded and stir-fried, while the bones are boiled into a broth to soak the rice. The stir-fried eel and silk seedling rice are then simmered in a clay pot, drizzled with reserved eel blood until it darkens and sets, infusing the grains with eel juices and fat. Topped with a handful of scallions and cilantro, the result is the legendary Taishan eel rice.

The slender, glistening rice grains take on a golden hue from the eel's oils, dotted with specks of eel blood and tender eel meat, offering a rich, savory bite. The aromatic eel blends seamlessly with the fluffy, non-sticky rice, while the bottom yields crispy, golden crusts that are effortlessly scooped up with a spoon.

If the century-old eel rice is the elder statesman of Taishan's rice dishes, the recently emerged eel rice is its vibrant younger sibling.

Freshly killed eel is first grilled to firm up the flesh, then steamed to render excess fat, brushed with sauce, and grilled again until glossy and tender. Served hot over rice with seaweed flakes and sesame seeds, it's a bowl of irresistible aroma. Though many first encounter eel rice in Japanese restaurants, Taishan eel rice holds its own. In 2023, Taishan produced 50,502 tons of eel, worth 6.34 billion yuan, with nearly 10,000 tons exported directly. The eel you eat in Japan might well be from Taishan.

Other highlights include vegetable and cured meat rice (oily rice), brimming with腊味and菜果; stone clam rice, maximizing the clam's umami with the rice; and Taishan clay pot rice, where叉烧, pork belly, or beef with a runny egg combine effortlessly with premium silk seedling rice.

As a quintessential Guangdong town, Jiangmen's rice dishes aren't complete without poultry, notably Wencun five-spice goose. Made with local farm-raised goose, it's cooked in a sauce blending sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, and salty flavors. The rich marinade melds with the goose's juices, creating a dish that's a perfect rice companion.

In Xinhui, dried tangerine peel seasons everything, but the pinnacle is Gujing roast goose. Kaiping Magang goose, one of Guangdong's four famous breeds, is prepared with lychee wood fire, inflated, stuffed, sealed, scalded, and glazed before roasting in a clay oven. When the skin turns caramel and juices flow, it's chopped and served with gravy.

Unlike typical roast goose, Gujing's version, with Xinhui dried tangerine peel in the marinade, leans sweet. The Magang goose's tender, flavorful meat pairs with crispy skin for a multi-layered bite. Its juicy sweetness and tangerine peel aroma earn it a spot in Guangdong's "no feast without goose" culture.

A dish worth risking "heatiness" for is Xinhui dried tangerine peel spare ribs. Marinated in a blend of peel, celery, salt, and sugar, then fried to golden crispness and dusted with peel powder, they're crispy outside, tender inside, with a subtle peel fragrance cutting through the grease.

Soup-loving Cantonese also prize dried tangerine peel in broths. Five-year-old Xinhui peel and ginger simmer with duck and pork for a simple yet profound Xinhui dried tangerine peel duck soup.

Beyond savory dishes, the peel shines in desserts. Summer classic mung bean soup with seaweed and peel is refreshing with a sweet aftertaste. Similarly, red bean soup, ice cream, and pastries all benefit from its unique aroma.

To Xinhui locals, dried tangerine peel is a treasure—dowry for daughters, a family heirloom, and a kitchen staple. Carrying a few pieces when traveling, they can steep them in water for a taste of home.

After savoring Taishan and Xinhui, naturally, one shouldn't miss the other two districts and three cities. Pengjiang District's specialty, Duruan bitter melon, has a plump, rounded shape and thick flesh. Though a type of bitter gourd, its unique crisp, residue-free texture and sweet aftertaste make it suitable for sashimi-style raw consumption. Duruan lamb dishes, such as braised lamb and clear soup lamb, perfectly preserve the traditional Cantonese culinary style.

Using fresh local mud carp, deboned and minced, seasoned and pounded until the fish paste becomes elastic, then pressed into patties and pan-fried over low heat until golden on both sides—this delicate and elegant Hetang fish cake is both a traditional snack and a dish fit for banquets. The fried fish cake boasts a glossy, crispy exterior with tender, springy fish meat inside, offering a delightful umami flavor.

Representing Jiangmen's noodle culture, Waihai noodles from Jianghai District have a long history, with their production techniques listed in Jiangmen's first batch of municipal intangible cultural heritage. The noodles are springy and smooth, topped with a dazzling array of accompaniments. Beyond the classic wonton Waihai noodles, options include beef brisket, pork knuckle, fresh shrimp, or fish paste, catering to all preferences and budgets.

Heshan's Gulao fish skin dumplings are made with fresh local fish meat mixed with half-lean, half-fat pork, along with over 10 ingredients like shiitake mushrooms, water chestnuts, dried tangerine peel, pepper, and scallions for the filling. Wrapped in a skin made from tapioca starch and wheat starch, they are steamed to perfection. The result is thin, translucent wrappers that remain intact, encasing a flavorful, fish-rich filling.

Among the standout snacks are Kaiping salted duck eggs and Chikan tofu triangles—tofu fried with fish paste and sprinkled with "five-spice powder." The refreshing green Enping leek, alongside Enping rice noodles, which hold a prominent place in Guangdong's rice noodle scene, and the initially intimidating-sounding cow's hoof skin—each is a unique delicacy supported by Jiangmen's abundant local produce.

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