How Did Hunan Rice Noodles Become China's Most Addictive Dish?

What makes this city stand at the top?

Mentioning Changde, Hunan, many may not have visited, but we’ve long encountered it in the familiar "Peach Blossom Spring"—

The Wuling area described by Tao Yuanming is today’s Changde. Though the story itself is an unverifiable romantic legend, Changde is indeed beautiful. Guarding the northern gateway of Hunan, to its west lies the "Roof of Hunan," Huping Mountain; to its east, the vast and misty Dongting Lake.

The Dahe and Xiaohe Streets in Wuling District reflect the passage of time.

More people, however, know Changde through its rice noodles. The Yuan and Li Rivers flow through Changde, nurturing a land of fish and rice and enriching its cuisine. The aromatic Jinshi rice noodles from Changde have spread nationwide; steaming hot "bowl dishes" boast the boldness of "a bowl holding everything"; the local morning liquor culture, shared with neighboring Hubei, starts the day with a lavish feast...

In Changde, even lei tea is served with a full table of side dishes.

Today, Changde isn’t a trendy hotspot, but that doesn’t hinder its leisurely charm. A local saying goes, "Better a simmering pot at home than a royal title." The spicy, fragrant food creates a delightful local vibe, a happiness hard to describe to outsiders.

The happiness of Changde people lies in their daily meals.

Photo / like a pineapple

Unlike other province-named noodles, Hunan rice noodles can’t represent a single specific flavor. In this vast and diverse kingdom, each city has its own style, none conceding to others. Some argue Hengyang braised noodles are the saltiest, others swear by Qingshuping rice noodles, some praise Qifengdu fish noodles for their freshness, while others claim Changsha shredded pork noodles are the most comforting...

Yet after endless debates, Changde people stand the tallest. While tastes are hard to rank, only Changde has achieved "breaking out," taking its rice noodles beyond Hunan and making Jinshi beef noodles a nationwide brand. Today, Changde holds two national geographical indication trademarks—"Changde Rice Noodles" and "Jinshi Beef Rice Noodles"—solidifying its top spot in the rice noodle world.

A bowl of Changde beef noodles soothes the homesickness of many Hunan wanderers.

According to the city’s rice noodle industry office, by last year, Changde had over 10,000 local rice noodle shops, reflecting locals’ passion for slurping noodles. Outside Changde, there are more than 13,000 such shops. Everyone envies Changde people for enjoying hometown flavors anywhere, but devoted Changde "foodies" still crave that authentic freshness. Returning locals often head straight to their favorite noodle shop—stepping into a bustling eatery, breathing in the beefy aroma, they know they’re home.

Changde’s definition of rice noodles differs from elsewhere in Hunan. Instead of asking "round or flat," the shopkeeper asks in local dialect, "mi fen or mi mian?" Mi mian refers to flat noodles, wider than those in Changsha-Zhuzhou-Xiangtan, excelling at soaking up broth. Changde’s mi fen means round noodles, favored for their slurpable texture—chewy yet smooth, unbreakable by chopsticks but melting in the mouth.

Mi mian and mi fen each dominate half of Changde’s noodle scene.

Photo / Liu Hair, a food and travel enthusiast

Changde is Hunan’s vital granary, and its noodle-making reflects deep rice expertise. Local early indica rice undergoes days of natural fermentation to maximize aroma, then is ground, steamed, and pressed into springy noodles. For the best texture, shops use fresh wet noodles daily—a level of care rare elsewhere.

Changde’s round noodles are wet, boiling quickly in water.

The cooked noodles are stacked neatly like "comb backs," ready for toppings. To Changde people, adding greens is heresy—proper toppings must be hearty beef. Spicy lovers opt for mala, others choose braised; tripe or brisket are great too, or splurge on double toppings. Dongting Lake water buffalo, stir-fried with spices, releases rich aromas, while long-stewed beef broth is oily and fragrant. Pouring beef chunks and broth over the noodles is intoxicating before the first bite.

Changde beef noodles: big chunks, bold flavors!

Netizens often complain that aunties in Changde are stingy with the soup, but that's not the case—the original broth is so rich that too much would be overly salty, so just the right amount is perfect. Before eating, remember to stir a few times to coat the rice noodles with the red oil at the bottom of the bowl. The flavors of meat and red oil blend in your mouth, gently wrapped by the noodles. Connoisseurs will also order a Chuan Yan Baba (holey pancake) to dip in the broth and enjoy together.

A bowl of soup noodles paired with Chuan Yan Baba,

makes the perfect start to a Changde local's day.

Beyond soup noodles, Changde offers other options: dry-tossed noodles for deeper flavor and stewed noodles for a luxurious treat. The local round rice noodles are smooth and resilient, holding up well even after long cooking, making them the perfect match for bubbling beef broth. The three northern Changde areas along the Li River (Anxiang, Lixian, and Jinshi) were bustling river ports in the last century, where boatmen’s morning drinking tradition persists. A pot of stewed noodles with beef offal is a staple at these morning stalls. Amid the aroma of meat, the day’s energy is replenished.

Soup noodles, dry-tossed noodles, stewed noodles—each has its own charm.

For every Hunan resident without heating, winter is eternal agony. The cold in the south seeps into the bones, especially in the watery northern Hunan regions, where damp chill is relentless. Fortunately, Changde locals have a unique remedy: feeling cold? Go for a steamy hot pot (Dun Bo Bo Er)!

The Dun Bo Bo Er family is vast—mountains and rivers alike can be "potted."

Photo/like a pineapple

Wandering Changde’s streets, you’ll notice the word "pot" (Bo) frequently on restaurant signs. To Changde locals, Dun Bo Bo Er is what hotpot is to Sichuan and Chongqing people—a must for hosting guests. A table full of pot dishes signifies the highest respect, and the food stays warm, simmering in the pots even after rounds of drinks, keeping everything just right.

This adaptation of ancient "cook and eat in the same vessel" culture not only helps locals ward off the cold but also shapes Changde’s unique culinary style. Unlike fiery stir-fries, the earthen pots are "slowpokes"—ingredients, pre-stir-fried, meld further with seasonings as they simmer. The broth thickens, enriching the spicy base with deep savoriness.

Intestines grow tenderer the longer they stew—one word: divine!

Photo/like a pineapple

Locals say, "A Changde pot is a basket—anything can go in." These little pots unlock countless delights. Classics include duck and free-range chicken pots. Northern Hunan’s fertile lands raise free-spirited poultry, their meat exceptional after a life roaming hills and ponds. Slow-cooked chunks, cloaked in rich fat, fall off the bone. Hanshou’s turtle, a local specialty, shines in braised turtle pots—juicy and fresh. Beef pots feature palm-sized slices soaked in broth, demanding refills: "Boss, five more bowls of rice!"

Chicken pots, duck pots, turtle pots, offal pots...

Stewed to intensify flavors, they’re rice’s mortal enemies.

Photo/Zhezhe Can’t Sit Still, Jun as Blade

In the pot universe, ingredients team up for greatness. Shimen’s premium intestines pair with pork head meat, joined later by pickled greens for tangy balance. Fish offal and brain pots offer tender decadence for organ lovers. Pots also cater to milder tastes—tofu skin pots soothe with gentle broth.

Fish roe and bladder pots—pure bliss in every bite.

Winter nights are cold, but pot restaurants glow with flushed faces—no chill withstands their warmth.

Spicy dried duck, duck king...

Many people's first encounter with Changde sauced duck comes from their Changde friends—it's a specialty that Changde natives always take with them when returning home. After all, beef noodles and clay pot dishes can't be packed, so they stuff their suitcases with extra ducks to soothe their homesickness.

"Sauced board" is Hunan's unique magic. It's not exclusive to duck but can be applied to other ingredients, like sauced beef, or even sauced turtle... everything can be "sauced board." The duck is marinated with dozens of spices and herbs, then smoked, braised, and air-dried until the flavors seep deep into the meat—spicy, sweet, and intensely numbing. Even seasoned spice lovers might need two bottles of water afterward.

Changde's sauced series is so fragrant you'll want to lick the plastic bag.

Yet, even vacuum-sealed sauced duck can't fully replicate the joy of Changde locals—the loose ducks sold at old-school shops there often taste more enticing than the vacuum-packed whole ducks. Here, you'll even find options like sauced quail and sauced clam meat, a whole new world beyond outsiders' imagination.

Besides sauced duck, "Duck King" is another titan in Changde's snack scene. Braised duck heads, necks, feet, wings, intestines, livers, and breast racks are lined up, reheated in the broth before serving, turning into irresistible drinking snacks. Across from Changde No.1 High School is the main factory of Beidi Spicy Meat, a sour-and-spicy tofu skin snack that's the "white moonlight" of many Changde locals...

Sauced duck and Duck King are the easily accessible joys of Changde natives.

These iconic foods have traveled beyond the region, shaping outsiders' impressions of Changde. But locals know the irreplaceable parts are just as important—the steam rising from clay pots, the chatter over slurped noodles—Changde's unique ease is the city's true flavor.

Cover & header image | Rita