How Shandong's Most Overlooked Food City Redefined Lu Cuisine

"Jinan in Shandong, Qingdao in China, Weifang in the world, Shouguang in the universe." Much like this popular joke, as the provincial capital of Shandong, Jinan has always maintained a remarkably low profile. The same seems true for its local cuisine—people travel to Yantai for seafood, Zibo for barbecue, and Dezhou for braised chicken, but rarely does one hear of anyone making a special trip to Jinan just for the food.

Is Jinan a culinary desert in Shandong? Of course not! In 2018 and 2019, Shandong ranked as China's top province in the catering industry, with revenues of 399.5 billion yuan and 443.046 billion yuan, respectively. Jinan alone accounted for over 20% of that, making it a leader in Shandong and even nationwide. At the same time, as one of the birthplaces of Lu cuisine, Jinan’s food is incredibly delicious—it’s just that this deliciousness is almost entirely different from the stereotypical image of Lu cuisine.

Braised sea cucumber with scallions, the representative Lu dish in people’s minds.

In popular perception, Lu cuisine mostly consists of heavy, oil-laden "hard dishes" like braised intestines in brown sauce or scallion-braised sea cucumber. Even street snacks are hearty, like braised pork belly (Ba Zi Rou). But if you step into a Jinan restaurant, you’ll find that authentic Jinan dishes are often brothy—dishes like milky soup with cattail shoots, quick-fried double crunch with broth, or even stir-fried pork tenderloin with coriander all include some soup. The emphasis is on freshness, and chefs who can’t make a good broth won’t earn much respect in Jinan.

Stir-fried shredded tripe with coriander, a Lu dish commonly eaten by Jinan locals.

Why is Jinan cuisine so "watery"? The answer lies in the "water." The essay "Baotu Spring" in Chinese textbooks and the line "Xia Yuhe by Daming Lake" from the TV drama *My Fair Princess* decades ago introduced many to Jinan, the "City of Springs." While "Xia Yuhe" may not be a common sight, springs are indeed everywhere in Jinan. According to 2021 data, the city has 1,209 springs, including 950 famous ones.

"Live off the mountains if you live near them, live off the water if you live near it"—this is an eternal culinary wisdom. For Jinan locals, spring water is the source of their delicacies and the key to unlocking their flavors.

"A spring for every person"—live off the water!

While many people’s first impression of Lu cuisine is of extravagant meat and fish dishes, the true representative—or even the soul—of Jinan cuisine is actually an aquatic plant: cattail shoots. Cattail shoots mostly grow in swamps and lakes and are common in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Hunan, but they’re rare in northern China. However, thanks to Jinan’s abundant water systems, the city is an exception. Many older Jinan locals recall childhood experiences of fishing and gathering shrimp in the lakes. When cattail shoots matured in late spring and early summer, people would harvest them from the water. Some who lived near the lakes even made a living from them. *A Quick Guide to Jinan* records: "The cattail shoots of Daming Lake resemble water chestnuts in shape and bamboo shoots in flavor. They grow all over the lake and are a rare delicacy among vegetable dishes in northern provinces."

From May to July each year, during the harvest season, lakeside restaurants put up signs advertising dishes like milky soup with cattail shoots, stir-fried cattail shoots with pork, quick-fried cattail shoots, and cattail shoot dumplings—the shoots can be prepared in countless ways. No matter how they’re cooked, the crisp and tender texture remains. Just when you might feel overwhelmed by the rich flavors of braised intestines, a bite of cattail shoots will remind you of Jinan’s elegance and the balance between meat and vegetables.

Stir-fried shrimp with cattail shoots, pan-fried cattail shoots, milky soup with cattail shoots—Jinan has endless ways to prepare them.

Image/Documentary *Drunk on a City*

Beyond cattail shoots, "Ming Lake lotus root" is another ingredient old Jinan locals can’t part with. Records show that as early as 240 AD, Daming Lake was already covered in lotus flowers and roots. Vendors carrying baskets of fresh lotus root through the streets were once a common sight in old Jinan. However, with urban development and water conservation efforts, fresh lotus root has become increasingly rare in the city. Yet, "Ming Lake crispy lotus root" remains a staple in Lu cuisine restaurants. The snow-white, tender shoots of the lotus root attract diners even when they’re still small. Eaten raw, they’re crisp, fresh, and occasionally sweet. Jinan locals also pickle them to create a prized delicacy: crystal lotus root.

The lotus leaves also have culinary uses. Lotus leaf porridge and lotus seed soup are the best drinks for Jinan’s summer and autumn, refreshing and cooling in hot weather, and soothingly warm in winter. Before the leaves wither, they can also wrap chicken, duck, fish, or meat, blending herbal fragrance with rich flavors while cutting through greasiness.

Lotus-wrapped chicken, a gift from Jinan’s springs.

Among seasonal dishes, deep-fried lotus flowers deserve special mention. This "old dish" was a favorite among scholars. Freshly picked lotus flowers are coated in egg batter, fried until golden, sprinkled with sugar, and served. While Lu cuisine is often seen as elaborate and rigid, this dish shows how Jinan’s water-inspired culinary culture also embraces creativity.

Beyond aquatic plants, fish is essential to Jinan cuisine. The standout dish is sweet-and-sour carp, a Lu cuisine classic. To ensure freshness, carp from the Yellow River are kept in spring water until served—diners pick their fish from the tank, and the chef prepares it on the spot.

Sweet-and-sour carp, a Jinan delicacy born from its waters.

Image/Tuchong Creativity

Shandong poet Zang Kejia once described the scene of eating carp: "The chef personally brings the lively, freshly caught fish to the diners for a quick look. Moments later, it appears on the table as a large bowl, seemingly garnished with shredded radish. The taste is incredibly fresh, the meat tender, and the broth superb."

Milk broth and clear broth,

The source of all flavors in Shandong cuisine

Like the city itself, Jinan cuisine carries a strong "watery" essence. As the saying goes, "Ma Lianliang's voice, Shandong restaurants' broth." It means that theatergoers should listen to the arias of famous performers, while food connoisseurs must appreciate the broths of Shandong cuisine. In Shandong cuisine, broth is regarded as the source of all flavors, and this is most perfectly embodied in Jinan.

In Jinan, broth is mainly divided into two types: milk broth and clear broth. Milk broth requires vigorous boiling over high heat to dissolve the collagen and fat particles from the ingredients, resulting in a white, exceptionally flavorful broth. Clear broth, on the other hand, demands slow simmering over low heat, with chicken breast paste used to absorb impurities and clarify it. Many old Jinan restaurants have dedicated kitchens for broth-making, where large pots are tended year-round. Workers there might sneak some meat, but taking a sip of the broth is absolutely forbidden.

Milk broth with cattail shoots, a representative dish of Jinan.

Among milk broths, the most iconic dish is the "crown of Jinan's soup dishes"—milk broth with cattail shoots. For locals, this dish epitomizes the combination of local ingredients and traditional methods. It unites the freshness of cattail shoots with the richness of the broth, creating a delicate and smooth texture. Eating the shoots alone, the first bite carries the savory umami of the broth, followed by their natural crispness and subtle sweetness, fully showcased in the mouth. Other dishes like "milk broth with walnut meat," "milk broth with soft-shelled turtle," and "milk broth with tendon" have also won over gourmands.

The standout among clear broth dishes is "double-crisp in clear broth." If you've visited a Shandong restaurant, you’re likely familiar with it—paired with "double-crisp in oil," they’re known as the "Twin Crisps of Lixia." The "double-crisp" refers to pork tripe and chicken gizzard, both scored and blanched before being lightly seasoned in a bowl and then added to the clear broth. This dish must be served quickly: the broth provides savory depth, while the ingredients deliver a crisp-tender bite.

Light yet intensely flavorful double-crisp in clear broth.

Image/Documentary "A Bite of China 2"

At some Jinan banquets, the "finale dish" might also be made with clear broth. Ingredients like sea cucumber, chicken slices, fish slices, shrimp slices, shiitake mushrooms, and bamboo shoots are combined in the broth to create "clear broth family feast," satisfying both the palate and symbolizing good fortune.

Of course, Jinan locals don’t spend every day perfecting milk and clear broths at home—ordinary people have their own everyday meals. Yet you’ll still find that these dishes are deeply intertwined with broths and soups.

In the morning, what gets Jinan residents out of bed is "sweet foam." Walking the streets, you’ll see nearly every breakfast stall with a bubbling pot, its aroma irresistible. That’s sweet foam, a simple dish made from millet, tofu skin, peanuts, vermicelli, sesame, assorted vegetables (adjustable to taste), and a pinch of five-spice powder. A steaming bowl warms the body instantly.

Cabbage and crispy egg soup, another beloved everyday broth in Jinan.

By noon, the star of the show is undoubtedly "braised pork belly" (ba zi rou). True to its name, it’s the "king of fast food." Its perfect pairing is captured in a local saying: "Steamed rice with braised pork belly." Though Shandong is a noodle-and-bun province, when it comes to ba zi rou, steamed buns must take a back seat.

The method for ba zi rou isn’t overly complicated: seasoned purely with soy sauce, the broth is boiled vigorously until the meat turns tender, then simmered until fully cooked. A quick poke with chopsticks reveals its quality. When ordering, you’ll notice the pork belly soaking in broth alongside chili peppers, eggs, meatballs, sausages, and other sides. After placing your order, the server might ask, "Want some broth?" With that broth, one bowl of rice might not be enough.

The soul of ba zi rou—the broth. Image/VCG

This is Jinan cuisine: it caters to both refined tastes and humble fast food, striking a balance between the mainstream and the niche. At first glance, it might not seem "typical Shandong," but in truth, its rich broths preserve the roots of certain dishes. Sipping the broth, one quickly realizes—those flavors have never faded.

The warmth of everyday life soothes the soul. ❤

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Cover image | Tuchong Creativity

Header image | Visual China

This article is original content from [Di Dao Feng Wu]