How Spectacular Has Milk's Journey in China Been?

Category: food
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dairy products Silk Road Inner Mongolia Mongolian cuisine nutrition
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In ancient times, during the Western Han Dynasty, Zhang Qian's diplomatic missions to the Western Regions opened the Silk Road, exchanging silk and porcelain for exotic treasures while introducing a wealth of dairy products. People back then could hardly imagine that these "Zhang Qian's selections" would accompany them through such long stretches of time, and under the skilled hands of countless generations, milk and dairy products would blossom into a myriad of flavors.

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Dairy products transported along the Silk Road.

In modern daily life, milk and dairy products, with their outstanding nutritional value and affordable prices, have become inseparable from people's lives.

The "Dietary Guidelines for Chinese Residents (2022 Edition)," a "treasure trove" for healthy eating released by the Chinese Nutrition Society, has even revised the recommended daily intake of milk and dairy products from 300 grams to 300–500 grams.

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Various dairy products in Mongolian cuisine.

Photo/Tuchong Creative, Photographer/Fei 368

Returning to its most primitive form—milk, now an utterly commonplace beverage. Over time, its status in people's hearts has seen dramatic fluctuations. What exactly has it gone through?

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A symbol of poverty and a mark of status

The origins of milk have always been somewhat obscure, but there is no doubt that it has accompanied humanity throughout its long history.

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The pastures of Inner Mongolia hide countless delicacies.

Murals in ancient Babylonian temples from thousands of years ago are the earliest records of humans obtaining and consuming milk, while in contemporaneous ancient Egyptian mythology, Hathor, the goddess of love and beauty, was depicted in the form of a cow.

In ancient China, with the advent of "domesticating wild animals for livestock," primitive animal husbandry began, naturally leading to milking and milk-drinking activities. The "Book of the Later Han" describes the Wuhuan tribe as "eating meat and drinking fermented milk, wearing fur garments," and the "Essential Techniques for the Welfare of the People" even details the rearing of dairy cows and milking procedures. Yet, the exact origin of milk remains unclear.

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Freshly squeezed milk, mouthwatering.

In contrast, the popularization of milk over the past few centuries has a much clearer trajectory, though it was by no means an overnight success.

Before the 19th century, milk consumption was not widespread, mostly limited to self-production and self-consumption. Without proper sterilization and preservation methods, and with extremely primitive ways of obtaining milk, bacteria could invade from every possible angle.

As a result, milk was considered a highly risky food, and it was widely believed in Europe that drinking milk directly was dangerous—even that frequent consumption of milk and dairy products was a "sign of poverty."

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Interestingly, according to the "Imperially Approved Statutes and Precedents of the Qing Dynasty," during the Kangxi era, there were regulations allocating dairy cows by rank: "The Grand Empress Dowager is allotted 24 dairy cows, the Emperor and Empress share 100, Imperial Noble Consorts are allotted 7..." In a sense, this also symbolized the status of the Manchu people.

However, whether in China or Europe, milk during this period was far from a beverage that the "general public" could accept or access. So, what exactly enabled this pristine natural drink to "fly into the homes of ordinary people"?

Two milk revolutions—the invention of pasteurization and the development of ultra-high temperature sterilization (UHT) and aseptic packaging—completely liberated milk from its "natural constraints," allowing more people to savor its taste.

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Pasteurization, invented by French biologist Louis Pasteur, kills pathogens in milk without affecting its flavor. However, since it cannot eliminate spores, milk must be stored under refrigeration for about a week, still failing to solve the issue of large-scale milk transportation.

In the 1940s, UHT aseptic packaging technology was invented, enabling milk to be stored at room temperature for over six months, thereby expanding its transportation range.

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Children in mountainous areas could also drink milk.

For China, dairy culture has existed since ancient times. The Qing Dynasty's imperial family, as nomadic people from the north, brought the grassland's "milk culture" into the Forbidden City, allowing it to be inherited and promoted.

With the continuous advancement of technology and the public's relentless pursuit of quality, milk now embodies countless unimaginable innovations and dedication.

As one of the top five global dairy companies and China's largest dairy producer with the most comprehensive product range, Yili has never ceased its pursuit of quality.

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It implements full-process quality management across areas such as milk sources, transportation, production, testing, and R&D. Product safety controls set enterprise standards 50% higher than national standards, with an additional 20% increase as internal control lines for layered scrutiny.

Additionally, it integrates nearly a thousand pasture resources, tracking milk sources technologically from the birth of cows to ensure control at the source. The entire transportation and production process is monitored digitally, achieving true "from pasture to table" full-process management for outstanding quality.

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The industrial chain process from pasture to table.

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Hey, this milk has many faces.

The fluidity of milk hides endless possibilities.

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People who "regard food as heaven" have given milk dazzling transformations—unique-flavored yogurt, smooth butter, soft and elastic cheese, rich and creamy whipped cream—all part of milk's "seventy-two transformations."

Beyond that, in China, from ancient times to the present, a group of artisans has unlocked infinite forms of milk through their exquisite craftsmanship and creativity.

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In the past, dairy products like milk tea, milk cakes, milk soup, and milk fish rolls held a place in the Manchu-Han Imperial Feast. Today's intangible cultural heritage artisans naturally refuse to be outdone.

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Sun-dried dairy products on the grassland—time shapes their flavor.

Filling and versatile, milk tofu is the sweetest love letter.

The Mongols have traditionally relied on pastoral economies, naturally developing a deep fondness for dairy products. Among them, "Hurood" (milk tofu) is a common dairy food in herders' households.

Milk tofu is the essence of milk. Traditional milk tofu is made from fresh milk, filtered through gauze, and left to ferment at room temperature in wooden barrels.

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The process of making milk tofu is delightfully bouncy and soothing.

Under the "magic touch" of time, the floating fat and whey are skimmed off, and the curd is heated until it emulsifies into a gelatinous, sponge-like texture. After drying in molds, milk tofu is ready.

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Sun-dried milk tofu can be stored for long periods, serving as rations for herders during outings or travels. It can also be soaked in milk tea for a warm meal, offering a blissful experience beyond satiety—sweet with a hint of fermented tang, its soft and delicate texture massaging the palate. Alternatively, it can be further processed into dishes like milk tofu pastry, candied milk tofu, or fresh milk soup.

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A bite of stretched milk tofu can bring happiness for the whole day.

"Meet Yourself" brought Dali rushan into the public eye.

Rushan, also known as "milk thread," is a traditional dairy product of the Bai people in Dali, Yunnan, with a long processing history. The Ming Dynasty's "Unofficial History of Nanzhao" mentioned "crisp flowers and milk threads floating in green cups," and only traditional artisans can create "perfect" rushan.

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Made from pure fresh milk heated and acidified to form curds, it is then skillfully pressed, kneaded, stretched, and wrapped around thin rods to air-dry into cheese. Any slight carelessness in the process can result in misshapen, unevenly thick, or "full of holes" rushan, affecting its appearance and texture.

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Despite the intricate production process, rushan is unassuming in flavor, versatile enough to be enjoyed cold, fried, grilled, salted, or simply dipped in sauce. While it absorbs the characteristics of various cooking methods, its unparalleled milky aroma and lingering texture remain unmistakable.

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Photo/Tuchong Creative, Photography/Marco781

People have found countless ways to "transform" milk, but fried milk remains one of the most unique "disguises."

From its name alone, one can sense the complexity of this dish—how can cold, liquid milk be fried into shape in sizzling hot oil?

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Wrapping milk in steamed buns makes it easier to fry into shape.

Fried milk originated in Shunde during the late Qing Dynasty and was an essential dish at banquets. It quickly spread across the Pearl River Delta, later reaching Southeast Asia, and eventually becoming a representative dessert of Cantonese cuisine.

Its preparation involves two parts: making the crispy coating and the milk filling. To achieve a crisp yet tender texture—golden and crunchy on the outside, soft and milky inside—precise oil temperature control, timing, and high-quality milk are indispensable.

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Traditional craftsmanship may seem "clumsy" compared to modern innovations, but tradition and innovation are not opposites. The "slow" dedication of traditional methods and the "fast" spirit of innovation share the same commitment to quality and passion for food—a perfect harmony.

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Traditional fried milk and modern lychee fried yogurt—evolving dairy delights.

"A Bite of China" rekindled public memories of traditional Chinese cuisine and awakened a nationwide pursuit of Chinese culinary culture.

Yili, embracing corporate social responsibility to revitalize traditional culture, collaborated with the "A Bite of China" team. Directed by Li Yong and narrated by Li Lihong's "flavorful" voice, they crafted "A Sip to Love a Thousand Tastes," China's first documentary focusing on intangible cultural heritage dairy foods. With quality and passion, it promotes China's dairy heritage and shares the stories behind these traditions with the world.

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Poster for "A Sip to Love a Thousand Tastes."

What new sparks of national-trend dairy creations will emerge from the collision between these three groups of heritage inheritors and three groups of food innovators?

Inner Mongolia milk tofu inheritor Daorina × Dream-chasing barista Louis Qiaodeng

A blend of bitter and sweet, old and new—uniquely delightful.

The link between Inner Mongolia milk tofu, eaten by herders on the grasslands, and the urbanites' daily life-saving coffee is none other than milk.

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The quality of raw milk is one of the biggest factors affecting the rich and silky texture of milk curd, while adding high-quality milk can also help first-time drinkers fall in love with coffee's unique tartness.

The moment milk curd is added to coffee, it gains a multi-dimensional fashion sense of sweet, sour, salty, and bitter flavors, while the coffee condenses the taste and scenery of the grasslands, as if transporting people to the pastures through their taste buds.

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The light and rich olfactory experience, the black-and-white visual contrast, and the bitter-sweet taste create an exceptionally harmonious culinary delight.

This fusion builds a bridge of communication between people from different regions who share a commitment to quality, revitalizing Inner Mongolia's intangible cultural heritage (ICH) cuisine with new flavors while also making Shanghai's Gen Z no longer view ICH foods as "old-fashioned."

Dali Rushan inheritor Li Peihe × Yunnan innovative cuisine founder Liu Xin

The process of making Rushan is repetitive and intricate, perfectly embodying the "craftsman spirit." In contrast, innovative Yunnan cuisine seems to require constant experimentation to break new ground—what common ground do they share?

Rushan has a rich flavor yet never overpowers other ingredients when combined, making it the ideal raw material for "innovation-obsessed" chefs.

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The chef skillfully combines Rushan with premium Yili thick-cut cheese slices, Yili original mozzarella, light cream, and Jin Dian Hulunbuir organic pure milk to create shredded cheese Dali hand-torn Rushan, Dali Rushan cheese glutinous rice rolls, cheese-infused chicken fat mushrooms, and Rushan silk泡鲁达. Familiar names but unfamiliar recipes—yet even without tasting, one can tell their flavors must be a perfect match.

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Shredded cheese Dali hand-torn Rushan, Rushan silk泡鲁达.

Only passion can drive someone to bring more and better Rushan to distant places year after year, and only passion can decipher food's "little secrets," placing them in the most fitting way to let diners savor countless flavors in a single bite.

Let this mutual admiration be seen, and let this passion heal more people.

Shunde fried milk inheritor Guo Yaosheng × Guofeng food blogger Xia Chu Chen Ershi

When it comes to creative ways of eating milk, no city likely surpasses Shunde. But can "simple" milk-based delicacies impress a food blogger who has "tasted all the delicacies of land and sea"? The answer is yes.

With Shunde people's "top-tier understanding" of milk, stir-fried milk, ginger milk pudding, and double-layer milk pudding are effortlessly made. Fried milk is an absolute standout—the moment you bite into it, the world around you seems to pause, with only the crispiness of the outer layer, the springy milk core, and the all-pervasive milky aroma greedily "invading" your senses, bringing an overwhelming sense of comfort.

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Stir-fried milk or double-layer milk pudding—which is your favorite?

ICH inheritors remain in Shunde, guarding their "small plot" of milk-based craftsmanship, while food bloggers, themed around "Guofeng," heal hearts through food on their culinary journeys. Through milk, they briefly cross paths before continuing their separate ways, carrying each other's essence as they jointly inherit, sustain, and create ways to share happiness.

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Every collision of ideas, every intersection of stories, and every encounter between people reveals the charm of food.

China's ICH dairy foods carry both the weight of traditional culture and the unique appeal of Chinese culinary heritage. Yet, how to continue the legacy of ICH dairy foods and bridge the gap between traditional culture and younger generations remain pressing challenges.

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ICH is not "stubborn old ways," and trendiness is not a "three-minute fad." Through this ICH flavor-seeking journey, Yili has brought the dairy feast from the screen into reality, allowing food enthusiasts nationwide to experience firsthand the revitalized charm of traditional ICH dairy foods, using all their senses to appreciate the excellence shaped by passion.

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Even the cat wants a sip of milk.

Yili has always upheld its respect and passion for traditional culture while actively fulfilling social responsibilities. This innovative initiative bridging traditional intangible heritage with contemporary trends allows the old flavors and new tastes to jointly recreate countless flavors that belong to both tradition and the future, through dedication and perseverance.

Image Editor | =G

Cover & Featured Image | 《"Yi" Love for a Thousand Flavors》

Uncredited Images & GIFs | Yili Official Website & 《"Yi" Love for a Thousand Flavors》

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