How Spicy and Flavorful Is China’s Ultimate Late-Night Snack?

Wanzhou District in Chongqing is a place nationally renowned for its grilled fish. However, many may not know that Wanzhou cuisine, as a branch of Sichuan cuisine, boasts a rich variety of flavors: numbing-spicy, peppery-numbing, sour-spicy, red oil, fish-fragrant, sweet-and-sour, and even unique blends like sesame paste and mustard, combining the strengths of northern and southern Chinese cuisines. This forms the delicious foundation of Wanzhou grilled fish.

Wanzhou cuisine’s distinctiveness stems from its strategic location at the confluence of the upper and middle reaches of the Yangtze River. Since ancient times, it has been a vital hub for land and water transport, serving as a distribution center for goods from eastern Sichuan, western Hunan and Hubei, and southern Shaanxi. Its developed transportation network fostered a culture of fish and salt. Locally, Wanzhou grilled fish is credited to the people of Wuxi in Wanzhou.

Delicacies originate from folk traditions. In the past, fishermen in the Lesser Three Gorges, hungry after towing boats, would spear fish and grill them on the riverbank. Leftovers were taken home, reheated, and seasoned, forming the rudimentary version of Wanzhou grilled fish. Wuxi people refined and perfected the cooking process, combining marinating, grilling, and stewing into the "grill-then-stew" method.

Thus, Wanzhou grilled fish evolved from Wuxi grilled fish, while Wushan grilled fish represents another lineage. Wushan grilled fish originated in Wushan County, located in the heart of the Three Gorges Reservoir area and known as the northeastern gateway of Chongqing. Scholars debate which came first, but a simple way to tell them apart is this: Wushan grilled fish typically has vegetables underneath, while Wanzhou grilled fish places them on top.

The most noticeable difference between Wanzhou grilled fish and traditional barbecue is its flat plate with broth. This reflects its borrowing of ingredients from traditional Sichuan cuisine and Chongqing hotpot. Unique blends of marinades, broths, grilling oils, and aged oils layer rich, aromatic flavors and a distinctive charred fragrance atop the fish’s natural freshness.

In Wanzhou, the most common flavors for grilled fish are pickled pepper, numbing-spicy, fermented black bean, spicy, and fish-fragrant. Around 2010, when it gained popularity in cities like Beijing, new variants like pickled vegetable and tomato emerged to cater to diverse tastes.

Wanzhou grilled fish uses a variety of fish, with grass carp being the most common, ranging from small crucian carp to large bighead carp. Diners who dislike bones often opt for catfish, snakehead, perch, or mandarin fish for a hassle-free meaty experience. Enjoy it by eating the fish first, then the side dishes, or both together. But the perfect finish is soaking white rice or instant noodles in the remaining broth.

In other provinces, Wanzhou grilled fish adapts seamlessly to local flavors, creating regional variants. For example, in Hunan, there’s chopped pepper grilled fish; in Northeast China, spicy kimchi grilled fish; and in Guizhou, tofu pudding grilled fish.

Speaking of Guizhou cuisine, think sour soup, tofu pudding, and mountain pepper. In Guiyang, Wanzhou grilled fish is creatively enhanced with tofu pudding and local seasonings, resulting in the unique tofu pudding grilled fish.

Tofu pudding resembles soft tofu but is an intermediate stage between tofu curd and firm tofu, combining the tenderness of the former with the resilience of the latter. To make tofu pudding grilled fish, the fish is first grilled, then plated with homemade stir-fried seasonings and a secret broth. The crowning touch is large chunks of tofu pudding laid atop the fish.

When served, avoid flipping the fish too much, as the delicate tofu pudding can easily break. Seasoned locals typically eat the fish first, then savor the tofu pudding slowly, and finish with the side dishes. The perfect finale is drizzling the broth over steamed rice.

Xuan’en Fermented Grilled Live Fish: Layered Sourness

Xuan’en County, part of Enshi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in Hubei, lies in the extension of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, with abundant fish resources in its valleys and basins. The indigenous people here elevate grilled fish by maximizing sour flavors and local fish varieties.

Unlike other grilled fish, Xuan’en’s version involves fermentation before grilling. Fresh carp or grass carp is cleaned, salted, mixed with rice flour, and sealed in jars. Over time, lactic acid bacteria ferment the fish, tightening its texture and enhancing its tanginess—a technique reminiscent of Japan’s ancient funazushi.

The fermented fish is split open, cleaned, scored, and grilled until slightly charred. It’s then placed on a hot plate, drizzled with secret broth and seasonings, and simmered over charcoal. The bubbling broth seems to beckon diners. Classic toppings include pickled radish and fermented chili paste, layering the fish’s natural sourness with the radish’s tang for a complex flavor profile.

Yizhou Grilled Fish: The "Wild Style" with Fruit Sauce

In Yizhou District, Hechi City, Guangxi, grilled fish is best described as bold. Freshly caught tilapia is slaughtered and grilled on the spot, with precise cuts and heat control. Surprisingly, the soul of Yizhou grilled fish lies in its fruit sauce!

The mildly sweet fruit sauce pairs with an array of sides: bold flavors like fish mint, sour pickles (often radish), and chives, alongside lighter touches like mung bean sprouts, fern shoots, and crispy soybeans. Served on a charcoal stove, the dish arrives sizzling, keeping the fish hot throughout the meal.

From the snowy plains of the north to the island of Taiwan, from the western deserts to the cloud-kissed south, China’s vastness is mirrored in its diverse grilled fish traditions. Stubbornly refusing to be defined by Wanzhou alone, countless regional variants hide in mountains and rivers, comforting souls by the waterside.

On China’s grilled fish map, the southwest stands as a "stronghold"—Wanzhou grilled fish, born in Chongqing, expanded eastward, blending with local ingredients to spawn countless delicious iterations. Another hotspot lies diagonally opposite: the northeast.

Jiejinkou Hezhen Fishing Village, fishing boats on the Heilongjiang River during the spring thaw.

Northeast-style grilled fish: A "tripartite division" of the region's culinary landscape.

With its abundant waterways—four major rivers and two lakes—and proximity to seas, coupled with the fishing traditions of ethnic minorities, Northeast China has developed distinct grilled fish flavors across its three provinces.

Fuyuan County in Jiamusi, Heilongjiang, is China's "eastern pole." The Wusuli River flows through it. The elementary school music textbook song "Wusuli Boat Song" depicts the Hezhen people's fishing scenes: "The Wusuli River stretches long... The Hezhen cast a thousand nets, boats filled with fish." Among their specialties is a unique grilled fish called "Talaha."

"Talaha" means grilled raw fish in the Hezhen language. It typically uses sturgeon or salmon from the Wusuli River, which have few bones, or sometimes bighead carp or grass carp—but rarely catfish due to its strong earthy taste.

Hezhen fishing village, piles of fish catches on the Wusuli River banks.

To make grilled "Talaha," first light a bonfire. When the flames die down, leaving only embers, skewer the fish on willow sticks and roast it over the coals. The Hezhen prefer it medium-rare or half-cooked. The fish is torn by hand and dipped in fine salt—a bold way of eating.

In contrast, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture in Jilin offers a different style. Train vendors' chants of "peanuts, melon seeds, congee, beer, drinks, mineral water" shift to grilled spicy pollock slices once the train enters Yanbian.

Spicy grilled pollock slices with unchanged packaging for 20 years—a nostalgic treat for Yanbian locals.

Image/Bilibili video: Dancing Boyfriend

The "pollock" in Yanbian refers to a type of cod (Alaska pollock), distinct from Atlantic cod used in British "fish and chips." Leaner and chewier, it's ideal for Korean-style grilling.

Yanbian's grilled pollock is unique for being sun-dried first. In autumn, highways are lined with endless wooden racks drying fish. After wind-curing and pounding, the fish is coated in Korean spicy sauce and slow-grilled.

Pairing grilled spicy pollock with beer is a winter traveler's delight on long train rides. The fish, stiff as a board, is hand-shredded into chewy, oil-soaked strips.

Jinzhou, Liaoning, boasts rich seafood resources. Its barbecue, famed for precise heat control and freshness, includes grilled horse mackerel and pomfret—small fish skewered individually.

The fish is basted repeatedly with sauce while grilling until crispy outside and tender inside, blending smoky and oceanic flavors irresistibly.

Which unique grilled fish tantalizes your taste buds?

In border regions, cultural fusion often lends grilled fish exotic or ethnic twists.

Yunnan's tropical proximity inspires bold spice use. Two standouts: Xishuangbanna Dai-style lemongrass-grilled tilapia (now popular in cities) and Thai-Dai sour-spicy fish with ingredients like lime, leaning Southeast Asian.

Lemongrass is key to Dai-style grilled fish. This humble herb, with its citrusy aroma, is used to truss tilapia stuffed with ginger, garlic, and local herbs.

The fish, "bound like Prometheus," is grilled medium-well, basted with hot oil, and finished with lime juice and chilies for tangy heat—often balanced by Yunnan's beloved mint.

In Tainan City, Taiwan Province, there is a fish called Taiwan tilapia, which resembles a tilapia and is locally known as "black crucian." Its signature preparation is salt-grilling, which is more like "salt-baking"—thick coarse salt encases the fish to form a salt crust, locking in moisture and freshness. Once grilled, the shell naturally falls off, allowing the pure saltiness to infuse, creating perfectly seasoned and cooked grilled fish.

In the Macau Special Administrative Region, another unique grilled fish is Portuguese-style grilled fish. Fresh cod or sea bass is paired with tomatoes, onions, and a secret sauce and olive oil, delivering rich Mediterranean flavors. Eating Portuguese grilled fish typically involves a squeeze of lemon juice to enhance the fish's freshness, while red wine is a staple, echoing the Chinese culinary practice of using wine and vinegar to elevate flavors.

In the Taklamakan Desert of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, there lives an indigenous group known as the Lop people. They grill fish using red willow branches—wild fish weighing dozens of pounds are split open at the belly but left connected at the spine, flattened with thin red willow branches, and grilled over a fire fueled by poplar wood. Sprinkled with cumin and other spices, this method is bold and hearty.

The ultimate form of grilled fish: grilled fish fillets.

Dalian City, Liaoning Province, located on the Liaodong Peninsula, boasts a long coastline that yields abundant seafood. Among it is a particularly ugly yet delicious fish: the anglerfish. Known locally as the "lanternfish," it "walks" on the dark ocean floor using its pelvic fins, with a glowing appendage on its head like a lantern to lure smaller fish.

To make grilled anglerfish fillets, the entire fish is deboned and skinned. Only salt and a small amount of sugar are added, along with a little oil for slow grilling over low heat. Once the fish turns golden brown with a slight charred aroma, it's ready to eat.

What sets grilled anglerfish fillets apart from other grilled fish is that they don’t leave your mouth dry. The fluffy, dense texture allows you to gently tear and pull it apart, savoring a mix of saltiness and subtle sweetness. Chewing slowly releases waves of umami, offering a richly layered taste of the ocean.

Across the sea from Dalian, in Yantai, Shandong, there’s a dried grilled fish beloved by locals: grilled halfbeak.

The halfbeak, also called needlefish, is strikingly different in appearance from the anglerfish—it’s quite elegant. Its mouth resembles a long, thin needle, and its slender body is covered in shimmering silver scales. A wide emerald-green "ribbon" runs along its dorsal midline, earning it the local nickname "needle maiden."

The halfbeak’s thin body allows it to dry quickly when split open, hence its Japanese name "one-night dry." Local fishermen in Yantai gut and sun-dry the fish immediately after catching it. To prepare, it’s soaked to soften, then skewered and grilled. The result is a glossy, translucent fish with a firm, chewy texture. Its thinness makes every bite deeply satisfying. Today, grilled halfbeak has also gained popularity in Zibo, becoming a must-order item in Zibo barbecue.

Each grilled fish is a piece of China’s vast rivers and lakes. Each carries unique flavors and reflects distinct regional characteristics, forming a diverse and expansive culinary map on the tip of the tongue.

*A Brief Analysis of Chinese Fish Culture* · Wang Yue

*Wanzhou Grilled Fish from the Perspective of Migration Culture* · Zhang Qian

*Hezhe Ethnic Cuisine* · Chen Yanbin

*The Village of the Lop People: The Last "Fishing Tribe" in Xinjiang’s Desert* · Wang Li

*The Manyoshu* · [Japan] · Compiled by Ōtomo no Yakamochi