No Northern Noodles Can Match the Bold Flavors of This Zhejiang Town!

When hunger strikes, one can't help but crave those "rice-pairing" delicacies, even feeling restless and dreaming about them at midnight. The popular "Meat Crab Pot" in recent years is one such dish—a hearty pot of tender braised chicken feet, rice cakes, potatoes, shrimp, and crab enveloped in rich, savory sauce, poured over steamed rice, creating an absolutely divine flavor.

The taste of Meat Crab Pot has spread across China, but few may know it originated from the Jiangnan water towns. Its prototype is the "Tongxiang Pot," named after Tongxiang, a county-level city under Jiaxing in Zhejiang. Tongxiang is more widely known for Wuzhen and the World Internet Conference held there. But just like the delicious yet underrated Tongxiang Pot, the area hides many authentic local delicacies.

Wuzhen delicacy: Scholar’s Mutton Noodles.

Tongxiang: A Haven for Noodle Enthusiasts in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai.

On the streets of Tongxiang, you might not find a parking spot in five seconds, but you’ll definitely spot a noodle shop. Located in Jiaxing, known as the "Granary of Jiangnan," the city is famous for its noodles, attracting noodle aficionados from Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai to drive hundreds of kilometers just for a bowl.

The noodles here are mostly thin, soft, and moist, smooth and quick to cook, exuding a delicate charm. Most noodle shops in the city source their noodles from a decades-old shop called "A’er A’san Wet Noodles." These wet noodles fall into three main categories, representing the three pillars of Tongxiang noodles: the standard "A’neng-style," drier and thicker, suited for blanching before boiling; an egg-infused, springy version ideal for seafood noodles; and an extra-soft version for mutton noodles, perfect for boiling briefly before adding toppings. Of course, skilled noodle makers know the recipe is never fixed—adjusting ratios based on Jiangnan’s ever-changing weather ensures the noodles meet discerning palates, a point of pride for local shop owners.

Photo/Feiyun; Image/©Tuchong Creativity

One pot, one flavor—noodles with thousands of tastes.

Twenty-seven years ago, Zhuang Guanneng, then in his early 40s, ventured into entrepreneurship, starting with a humble noodle stall under a makeshift shed in Shaojiaqiao. Back then, Tongxiang noodles came in just two varieties: pickled vegetable with shredded pork and pork liver. His innovation—"toppings cooked fresh, one pot per bowl"—became the origin of today’s small-pot noodles.

Noodles in Jiangnan are typically boiled first, then topped with pre-cooked ingredients, hence called "topping noodles." But A’neng noodles stand out for their made-to-order toppings and customizable combinations. Each pot yields a unique flavor.

At A’neng Noodle Shop, many customers order their noodles, leisurely pour themselves a cup of black or chrysanthemum tea, and take a seat. Soon, the roaring flames and clanging spatulas from the kitchen fill the air.

Generally, the choice of toppings determines whether the noodles are braised in soy sauce ("red-cooked") or simmered in clear broth ("white-cooked").

A’neng noodles offer a wide variety of toppings.

For robust ingredients like pork liver, kidney, eel, beef, or fried fish, red-cooking is used. One pot boils the noodles while another stir-fries the toppings. The chosen ingredients are quickly tossed in the wok, and at the perfect moment, a portion of noodles is added to the adjacent pot. When the noodles are 80% done, they’re scooped up, shaken off, and tossed into the topping pot, simmered until the sauce clings to every strand. Served and mixed, each bite is an intoxicating burst of flavors.

For lighter, fresher river delicacies like black fish or shrimp, white-cooking is preferred. The broth is clearer and more abundant, ideal for those who enjoy sipping soup. The subtle differences in white-cooked noodles come from house-pickled vegetables, made from local mustard tuber hearts—salty with a hint of sourness, crisp yet tender. (Though some shops now substitute with preserved snow cabbage, having lost the pickling craft.)

Wuzhen’s traditionally brewed soy sauce, an essential seasoning for local mutton noodles, Meat Crab Pot, and soy-braised duck.

Small-pot noodles also emphasize portion control. Too much noodle dilutes the sauce, weakening the flavor. A slightly smaller portion ensures the sauce coats perfectly, leaving diners about 70-80% full—just enough to crave more.

In an era of industrialized and pre-made food, the freshly cooked A’neng noodles stand out for their exceptional taste. Over the years, this local phenomenon has expanded beyond Tongxiang. Incomplete statistics show over 2,000 noodle shops named or related to "A’neng noodles" in northern Zhejiang, particularly in Hangzhou, Jiaxing, and Huzhou.

For many Tongxiang natives living outside the province, A’neng noodles are perhaps their deepest homesickness.

A’neng noodles are the nostalgia of Tongxiang people.

Southerners' lamb noodles are something Northerners truly don't understand!

When the autumn wind blows each year, it's time for Tongxiang locals to enjoy lamb noodles. The damp cold of Jiangnan's autumn and winter makes ducking into a roadside lamb noodle shop the proper choice.

The wood-fired stove and large iron pot set up at the shop's entrance declare that Southerners are no less bold than Northerners when it comes to a good bowl of lamb noodles. Tongxiang's lamb noodles use "huakou lambs"—young lake sheep (a breed of sheep mainly raised in Jiaxing and the Taihu region) fattened that year, with less fat and a milder gaminess. The water and grass of Jiangnan also give the meat a finer texture.

Tongxiang braised lamb noodles: even in the watery Jiangnan, you can eat meat in big chunks.

Ingredients like red dates, yellow wine, white radish, and sugarcane are added to remove the gaminess, then covered with a large porcelain plate. (Yes, you read that right—a lid would trap the gaminess, so Tongxiang locals press a porcelain plate onto the meat to better disperse the smell while keeping the lamb tender yet firm.) After a night of slow simmering, the lamb emerges melt-in-the-mouth soft, the tripe sticky, and the intestines glistening with fat—a delicacy worth staying up for.

Lamb noodles, once called "crispy lamb big noodles," come in three main types: lamb meat, lamb offal, or lamb trotters. For lamb meat noodles, you can ask for "lean or fatty cuts"; offal noodles, combining meat and organs, cost a few yuan more; those who order trotters are usually regulars. The chef, wielding a ladle and scissors, swiftly scoops and cuts the meat upon hearing the order.

Today, some old shops near markets still serve the lamb and noodles separately (once called "bridge-crossing lamb noodles"), but most places pile the meat directly into the bowl, add a ladle of broth, and sprinkle minced ginger and green garlic leaves.

Mixing the noodles releases the lamb's aroma. A slurp of broth-soaked strands, glazed with lamb fat, delivers a rich, layered aftertaste. The meat, stewed to tenderness yet textured, pairs with thick broth, fragrant noodles, golden ginger, and green garlic—a hearty, autumnal indulgence.

Tongxiang lamb noodles: visibly extravagant.

Mud crab noodles so good you'll pack the broth

In Zhejiang, mud crabs aren’t rare, especially in coastal areas where they’re a household dish. Yet in crab-producing Tongxiang, a "dry-broth mud crab noodle" was invented out of thin air. This hundred-yuan bowl has "carved a bloody path" in Tongxiang—the daily parade of luxury cars outside is a tired joke but still a reality.

Freshly killed and stir-fried, the crabs (from Sanmen, Taizhou) unleash unparalleled umami. The sweetness of claw meat dances with the broth’s savory-sweet depth, making it irresistible. Many even pack the broth to cook more noodles at home.

Let’s uncover some Wuzhen eats only locals know

They say "Jiaxing for Zhejiang, Tongxiang for China, Wuzhen for the world." As the World Internet Conference’s venue and a global Jiangnan icon, how could Wuzhen’s food be overlooked?

Scholar’s Lamb Noodles, a "top-tier" dish in Xizha Scenic Area, draws international guests and journalists during the conference. The lamb mirrors Tongxiang’s style, but the flat noodles hint at Wuzhen’s stubborn uniqueness.

Wuzhen’s soy-braised duck: the taste of Mao Dun’s nostalgia.

As the saying goes, "Pickle greens in Light Snow, cure meat in Heavy Snow." The salted goods hung on windows and clotheslines herald Tongxiang’s New Year memories. "San Zhen Zhai," founded in the Daoguang era, pioneered a "triple-boil, triple-dry" method, reaching Shanghai markets by the 1930s. Mao Dun, then in Shanghai, often bought their duck at Baifumen (now Hankou Road)—a taste of home offering solace in turbulent times.

If scenic spots feel too touristy, dive into local life. A 30-year-old "Rib Noodle Shop" sells out by noon, with perpetual queues. The glossy, slightly sweet broth pairs with crispy batter-fried ribs that soften in the soup—a greasy, comforting breakfast. Why only half-day? Prep takes time! The boss believes in earning well but living better.

A rib noodle shop open just half a day, yet never skimps on meat.

To Wuzhen locals, outsiders who know "Beihuaqiao spring rolls" are true gourmets—many Tongxiang natives haven’t tried them. Sold out by 4 PM, these meat-filled rolls are a cult legend. Unsealed yet intact when fried, the first bite cracks with crisp skin, slightly salty; the next bursts with scalding, juicy filling—never dried out by frying. "Crunch, crunch"—one is never enough.

But you might have tried "Tongxiang Pot".

Tongxiang Pot is not just a local culinary champion but also shares the same roots as the nationally popular Crab Pot. Compared to the light and delicate flavors of the Jiangnan water towns, it boasts a bold, hearty character.

The robust and flavorful Tongxiang Crab Pot.

Though its name includes "pot," it’s not the usual slow-simmered dish. Instead, ingredients are stir-fried over high heat, then simmered in broth and a secret sauce, served with various side dishes. The main ingredients are typically crab, chicken, blackfish, prawns, or bullfrog, while the sides are soft, broth-absorbing items like potatoes, rice cakes, tofu shreds, or fried chicken feet. Don’t miss the melt-in-your-mouth chicken feet or the comforting, flavor-soaked potatoes.

Blackfish Pot and Crab Pot represent the red and white broths, respectively. But no matter the pot, you must! mix! it! with! rice!!! If you refuse with "I’m training, and my coach forbids carb-heavy broth rice," just bring the coach along—they’ll likely eat more eagerly than you.

Crab Pot always delivers hearty surprises.

Beyond Tongxiang Pot, Vermicelli Pot is the "boss" of traditional late-night snacks. Its star ingredient is humble "vermicelli" (sweet potato noodles). Yes, Tongxiang locals call these thicker noodles "vermicelli," paired with fried gluten, greens, ham, and bone broth, simmered in a clay pot—a cozy winter night staple.

Kids debate sweet or salty,

Tongxiang snacks say, "We want both."

Yamai Flatbread, a Qingming Festival favorite, looks unassuming: round, flat, and slightly charred. One bite reveals mugwort fragrance and sesame aroma; a chew unveils a crispy shell with chewy insides—pure Jiangnan spring.

Yamai Flatbread, blending mugwort and sesame scents.

Vermicelli Soup + Tofu is as classic as "doughsticks + soy milk" here. Clear vermicelli is pre-cut, topped with pickles, ham, and scallions. At serving, hot broth is poured and stirred, eaten with a spoon. Paired with chewy-yet-tender tofu skewers and Tongxiang chili or sweet sauce, it’s soul-soothing.

Shaomai sparks north-south debates: southern Cantonese versions stuff glutinous rice, while northern Mongolian ones pack lamb/beef. Surprisingly, Tongxiang’s southern shaomai has no rice—just minced meat, sometimes with bamboo shoots for freshness. Dip in vinegar, sip the broth, then devour—perfect for breakfast or afternoon snacks.

A "seasonal exclusive" you can sip.

If May’s bayberries are Zhejiang’s social currency, June-July’s Zuili plums are the hyper-local, history-rich choice.

Just plums? These are 2,500-year-old "living fossils" of Jiaxing. Zuili (ancient "Zui Li") appears in classical texts, embodying Wu-Yue culture.

Photo/Qiu Daocen; Image/Figure·Creative.

Plums originated in China, and Zuili is an ancient, rare, premium variety, long a tribute fruit. Native to Jiaxing, the city was even named "Zuili" in antiquity due to its fame.

A city named after a fruit is nearly unique nationwide. The historic "Zuili Battle" between Wu and Yue kings occurred here. Today, the war’s gone, but the fruit remains.

Survival wasn’t easy: in 1979, only 19 Zuili trees existed in Jiaxing; by 1985, just 24 fruits were harvested, making it a rescued endangered species.

Fortunately, the Zuili plum was saved, allowing us to enjoy this imperial tribute fruit today. As a fruit once offered to emperors, its consumption is naturally refined: ripe Zuili plums are purplish-red with a frosty coating. Gently rub the fruit between your hands until the flesh turns pulpy, then make a small opening at the top to slowly sip the wine-scented juice, leaving only the pit at the end.

From the meaty "Crispy Lamb Noodles" to the spicy and flavorful "Tongxiang Hotpot," these dishes might "overturn" your impression of Jiangnan's waterside towns. But they certainly prove that Tongxiang's cuisine is diverse and inclusive. Isn't it worth a special trip, beyond just visiting Wuzhen, to savor these delights?

Image Editors | Binglingdu, Chen Jinyu

Cover Image | Tuchong Creative

This article is original content from [Di Dao Feng Wu]