Surprise! Sun Wukong’s Hometown Is Actually Jiangsu’s Top Seafood City
In August, when the fishing ban is lifted, Chinese people usher in the annual "golden age" of seafood feasting. Every seafood connoisseur has a dream city—Qingdao and Weihai in the north, Zhoushan and Zhanjiang in the south. Yet Jiangsu natives, who believe in "eating only in season," rarely reach a consensus when discussing their province’s "top seafood city"—
On August 1, just after the three-month summer fishing moratorium ended, thousands of fishing boats from Lianyungang raced to the sea to welcome this year’s "first taste of freshness." Countless prawns, crabs, and other seafood are about to storm the dining tables of Lianyungang residents.
The "spring" for seafood lovers is coming.
Lianyungang, one of the few cities in Jiangsu with a strong maritime flavor, is also a city that feels "very un-Jiangsu."
Jiangsu has few islands, but Lianyungang boasts island clusters; Jiangsu has few mountains, but Lianyungang is home to famous peaks like Huaguo Mountain and Kongwang Mountain. As a microcosm of "Maritime Jiangsu," it not only offers seafood that amazes cities in southern Jiangsu, but also serves pancakes with scallions, and echoes with Shandong dialects...
Mountains and sea together shape this ethereal port city.
Liandao Island, Yuntai Mountain, and the seaport—Lianyungang, complete with "mountains, sea, and port," derives its name from these features. The name "Lianyun" roughly translates to "reaching the heavens." Yes, that most beloved monkey in Chinese folklore originated from Huai'an native Wu Cheng'en’s imaginative tales set on Huaguo Mountain in Lianyungang. And today, along highways and railways, a "New Journey to the West" unfolds, with Lianyungang as the eastern starting point, much like a "bridgehead."
Lianyungang is the "northern gateway" of Jiangsu,
and one of Jiangsu’s three coastal cities.
Embracing mountains and sea, touching the sky and clouds—just how "fresh" is this ethereal city in northern Jiangsu?
Why is Lianyungang Jiangsu’s top seafood city?
In 2020, Lianyungang’s seafood output reached 630,000 tons, ranking 14th among Chinese cities. While this may not seem outstanding nationally, in Jiangsu—a "minor seafood province"—it is the undisputed leader, accounting for almost half of the province’s total output.
During the fishing season, thousands of fishing boats from Lianyungang set sail.
More impressively, Lianyungang’s seafood shines "online." In recent years, Lianyungang locals have dominated live-streaming e-commerce platforms, especially in Ganyu District, nestled in Haizhou Bay, which is recognized as a hub for fresh catches. Ganyu’s Haitou Town has gained fame for live-streaming seafood sales. With a 40,000-ton cold storage capacity and a well-developed cold chain logistics system, this town of less than 100,000 people has become "China’s top seafood distribution town."
Ganyu District is a major producer of dried small shrimp in China.
During the peak seafood season, from midnight to early morning, Haitou Town’s seafood market awakens early, with countless vendors showcasing their live seafood under camera lights. Some devour handfuls of razor clams, while others drizzle wasabi over seafood... Their creative eating styles "make the whole nation drool."
Nearly half of Lianyungang’s geographical indication products are seafood.
Besides Lianyungang, Jiangsu has two other coastal prefecture-level cities—Nantong and Yancheng. So why does Lianyungang’s seafood stand out?
The main reason is that only bedrock coastlines are suitable for building deep-water ports, and Jiangsu’s only bedrock coastline is in Lianyungang. Additionally, the Haizhou Bay Fishing Ground here is one of China’s eight major fishing grounds, with moderate water temperatures and 18 rivers like the Xiuzhen River and Longwang River flowing into the sea, bringing abundant nutrients that support the growth of diverse seafood.
Ganyu’s fishing boats set sail, soon to return laden with fresh seafood.
Ganyu Swimming Crab is one of only three swimming crab varieties among China's 2,482 geographical indication protected products. Additionally, Lianyungang boasts delicious and affordable oysters, the October "rivaling lamb soup" sand goby, and the "king of shrimp" Penaeus chinensis... all representing Lianyungang's ultimate freshness. Salt-braised prawns remain a staple at Lianyungang banquets.
Ganyu Swimming Crab is the "star" of Lianyungang's seafood.
"Mountains stride into the sea, the sea embraces the mountains—this is where magnificent landscapes between mountains and sea reside," wrote Yang Benjun, an official serving here during the Ming Dynasty. Mountains and sea collectively shaped Lianyungang, endowing it with the grandeur, vigor, and resilience of mountains, as well as the vastness, breadth, and inclusiveness of the ocean.
So what kind of mountain-and-sea city gave birth to such dazzlingly fresh seafood?
When Jiangsu is mentioned, we envision misty rain over the southern regions, fish swimming among lotus leaves, and seasonal river delicacies enjoyed at their peak. Yet, the coastal aspect of Jiangsu has long been overlooked.
In fact, Jiangsu possesses a 954-kilometer coastline, 86,000 square kilometers of sea area, and 5,000 square kilometers of coastal mudflats, making it unequivocally a "major maritime province." Lianyungang epitomizes this "Maritime Jiangsu."
Lian Island is the largest island in Jiangsu.
The people of Lianyungang know that their hometown's ancient name is "Haizhou"—meaning "the land of the great sea."
The Huaihai Campaign, Huaihai Economic Zone, Longhai Railway... the term "Huaihai" we often hear refers to Lianyungang as the "hai" (sea). Although the official abbreviation is "Lian," many old-timers believe it should be "Hai" (sea).
Most of Jiangsu's coastline consists of mudflats,
with only Lianyungang having a bedrock coast.
Over 90% of Jiangsu's coastline is silt-based, providing a habitat for rare species like roe deer and elk, while the public favors pleasant sandy beaches and majestic bedrock coasts. Lianyungang offers this complete range of seascapes.
Here, you'll find vast mudflat wetlands, stunning rocky coasts, and intermittent natural sandy beaches. Suma Bay on Lian Island is Jiangsu's most beautiful sandy beach.
Suma Bay, with its fine and soft sand, is also known as "Lovers' Bay."
Lianyungang also has the most islands in Jiangsu—21 out of Jiangsu's 26 islands, far surpassing Yancheng's 2 and Nantong's 3. Last year's film "The Island Keeper" depicted the story of Lianyungang people guarding Kaishan Island, living alongside the sea.
Consequently, Jiangsu Ocean University is located in Lianyungang. The sea has become synonymous with Lianyungang and has shaped the pioneering spirit of its people.
Jiangsu Ocean University is the only ocean university in Jiangsu.
During the pre-Qin period, this area was successively part of the Yue, Qi, and Chu states. After Qin unified China, Qin Shi Huang established Donghai Commandery here and sent the alchemist Xu Fu to sail east in search of mythical mountains. Xu Fu, widely regarded as China's earliest navigator, is believed to have been from Ganyu, Lianyungang.
During the Eastern Wei of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, it was renamed Haizhou, a name that persisted through the Ming and Qing dynasties. Haizhou not only derived its name from the sea but also embodied ancient Chinese imaginations of the maritime world. For instance, the Qing Dynasty "maritime legend" "Flowers in the Mirror," depicting the fantastical航海之旅 of Empress Wu Zetian's era and mysterious overseas customs, also carried aspirations for gender equality. Such an open-minded ancient novel could likely only have been written by someone who lived in Haizhou for many years.
Zhunti Temple is a Buddhist nunnery built in the late Qing Dynasty.
Author Li Ruzhen gathered local customs, folk sayings, and historical anecdotes in Haizhou, spending over thirty years of painstaking effort to complete "Flowers in the Mirror." This work can be considered a vivid depiction of ancient Haizhou's customs, incorporating nearly 200 local dialect expressions from Haizhou, Guanyun, and other areas, such as "出室" (leaving the chamber), "三朝" (three mornings), and "对人心路" (understanding others' thoughts). Additionally, local Haizhou folklore like the legend of "胡滔天" and "葛根解酒毒" (using kudzu root to counteract alcohol toxicity) are also woven into the book.
Openness and enterprising spirit have been inherent traits of Lianyungang people since ancient times. Beyond "Flowers in the Mirror," an even more famous novel serves as evidence—"Journey to the West." One explores the eastern seas, while the other ventures toward the western heavens, suggesting that in ancient Chinese imagination, one ought to set sail from Lianyungang to traverse the world. However, the primary setting of "Journey to the West" is not the sea but another distinctive feature of Haizhou: its mountains.
It gave birth to China's most handsome Monkey King!
Lianyungang is also one of Jiangsu's rare "mountain cities."
The small Great Wall on Shipeng Mountain, with Haizhou District in the distance.
While Jiangsu is often described as China's flattest and lowest-lying province, Lianyungang stands out as an exceptionally mountainous region. Both the urban areas and the outlying districts and counties are covered with rolling hills. Many of Lianyungang's villages and towns are built along mountainsides, where "the ground is never level, and stepping out means climbing slopes," embodying the essence of mountain city life.
The winding mountain roads and mountain dwellings on Sea Cloud Terrace Mountain.
Huaguo Mountain, where Sun Wukong burst forth from a stone in "Journey to the West," has long been recognized as Lianyungang's Huaguo Mountain. Yuntai Mountain, to which Huaguo Mountain belongs, was originally an archipelago in the sea. Silt carried by the Yellow River's diversion into the Huai River gradually clogged the area, causing the coastline to advance eastward. By the Qing Dynasty, Yuntai Mountain had connected with the mainland. Haizhou became inland, and the mountains that were once offshore are now part of the mainland.
Though Wu Cheng'en was from Huai'an, why did he have Sun Wukong emerge from a stone in neighboring Haizhou?
The Huaguo Mountain in "Journey to the West"
is precisely Lianyungang's Huaguo Mountain as it appeared centuries ago when it was surrounded by sea.
Not to mention that Wu Cheng'en had many relatives and friends in Haizhou, allowing him to frequently visit. From the perspective of mountains alone, Huai'an's flat terrain lacked significant peaks, so it was the majestic, fairy-tale-like mountains of Haizhou that inspired Wu Cheng'en's creative vision.
Back then, as Wu Cheng'en climbed Huaguo Mountain, passed through Water Curtain Cave, watched monkeys leap and play among the trees, and tasted wild fruits and game, the image of the Great Sage Equaling Heaven slowly took shape in his mind. Today, Huaguo Mountain remains as enchanting as Wu Cheng'en described, with over 300 of Sun Wukong's "descendant monkeys" still living freely in the mountains.
The "descendant monkeys" of Huaguo Mountain.
Adjacent to Huaguo Mountain is the "East Sea" where Sun Wukong stirred up the Dragon Palace and obtained the golden cudgel, the Divine Needle that Anchors the Seas. Guannan County is also traditionally believed to be the garrison of Erlang Shen, Sun Wukong's formidable rival. Even the hometown of Tang Seng, as recorded in "Journey to the West," is said to be Haizhou.
Without Haizhou, "Journey to the West" would likely have had a very different flavor.
Donghai County is renowned for its crystal production, and in "Journey to the West," the East Sea Dragon Palace is depicted as the Crystal Palace.
This is because the book is filled with reflections of Haizhou people's daily lives. For instance, in the first chapter, when Sun Wukong leads the monkeys in playful activities like "throwing pellets, playing with tiles, and jumping in sand pits," these were games beloved by Haizhou people of the past. When Sun Wukong leaves Huaguo Mountain to seek immortality and sees people fishing, hunting wild geese, digging clams, and harvesting salt along the shore, it mirrors today's Lianyungang—a major hub for seafood.
"Journey to the West" also serves as a living encyclopedia of ancient Haizhou. According to incomplete statistics, the novel contains about 256 instances of Haizhou dialect. Modern Lianyungang readers likely find it deeply familiar from childhood. Phrases like "一骨鲁" (doing things efficiently) and "吃了饭儿不挺尸，肚里没板脂" (if you don’t sleep after eating, you won’t build fat) are everyday expressions in the Huaihai region.
Viewing Lianyungang city from the summit of Kongwang Mountain.
Whether facing the Jade Emperor, Laozi, the Buddha, or Guanyin, Sun Wukong always wears an expression of utter fearlessness. From the moment he emerged from the Flower and Fruit Mountain, he was destined to be the most unrestrained Monkey King between heaven and earth—an eternally restless spirit. To this day, he remains one of the most well-known, beloved, and globally influential characters in Chinese literature.
And the figure of Sun Wukong has never been far from the city of Lianyungang. Across Jiangsu and indeed all of China, Lianyungang has leveraged its strategic position connecting north and south and linking sea and land to make waves on the historical stage. The people of Lianyungang are all daring and tenacious "Sun Wukongs"!
The tradition of Lianyungang people going out to sea for fishing continues to this day.
Photo 1 by Wang Jing, Photo 2 by Wang Jianmin
How was Jiangsu’s "Sun Wukong" born?
As Jiangsu’s "Northern Gateway," Lianyungang’s geographical importance rivals that of Xuzhou, especially for ancient southern regimes. Ancient people once described it as "backed by the sea and relying on mountains, a crucial north-south strategic location since ancient times." Whether via the eastern sea routes or the western land routes, Lianyungang has always been a place of great significance.
The international passenger terminal in Lianyun District.
Facing east, ancient people imagined "Flowers in the Mirror," while modern Lianyungang people have turned their hometown into an international hub port. Facing west, ancient people imagined "Journey to the West," while today’s Lianyungang people have shaped their hometown into the eastern "bridgehead" of the New Eurasian Land Bridge.
Lianyungang is both ancient and young—its current name has only existed for over 60 years, and the port’s opening dates back just over a century. In 1919, Sun Yat-sen designated Lianyungang as China’s sixth most important seaport. In 1933, the Port of Lianyungang began construction, and from then on, it acquired the nickname "Port City."
The Port of Lianyungang, nestled between mountains and sea.
Today, the Port of Lianyungang is Jiangsu’s largest seaport, one of the "three main ports" of the Yangtze River Delta port cluster, and a crucial hub for China’s energy exports. Cities along the Longhai Railway, such as Xi’an and Zhengzhou, efficiently access the sea from here. Inland iron ore, non-ferrous minerals, as well as imported cars and soybeans, all flow in and out through Lianyungang. Machinery, equipment, and vehicles are shipped to South America from here, with export volumes ranking third in the nation.
The freight terminal in Lianyun District welcomes goods from north and south.
Moreover, Lianyungang is also the eastern terminus of China’s most important east-west "artery"—the Longhai Railway.
In 1916, when the Longhai Railway extended east of Xuzhou, Haizhou industrialist Shen Yunpei and Zhang Jian disagreed on the issue of the railway’s seaport. Shen advocated for the Longhai Railway to reach Haizhou, supported by three seaports, while Zhang argued for extending the railway to Nantong.
Lianyungang is the eastern endpoint of the Longhai Railway.
In the end, Mr. Shen Yunpei’s plan was implemented. From then on, Lianyungang was no longer just a small coastal town but a new starting point on China’s railway network. The combined advantages of maritime and rail transport made Lianyungang a key national hub for goods distribution.
According to Shen Fan, the sixth son of Shen Yunpei, "The Longhai Railway was the endeavor to which Shen Yunpei devoted his life’s greatest efforts." Today, when self-drivers traveling across China along the Longhai line set out from the "0 km" marker of National Highway 310, they should not forget Mr. Shen’s dedication and vision.
Figure 1: Longhai Railway History Museum;
Figure 2: Port Museum; Figure 3: Lianyun Old Station.
Today, the eastern starting point of China’s longest east-west expressway—the G30 Lianhuo Expressway—is also Lianyungang. It is also the only intersection of China’s longest north-south and east-west expressways—the Tongsan Expressway and the Lianhuo Expressway—as well as the convergence point of the Longhai Railway and the Coastal Railway, two major national trunk lines. As the "Eastern Bridgehead of the New Eurasian Land Bridge," Lianyungang truly lives up to its name.
Counties and cities "showcasing their unique strengths"
There is a peculiar phenomenon in Lianyungang: counties and districts with "海" (sea) in their names are mostly not coastal, such as Haizhou District and Donghai County. The Golden Cudgel wielded by Sun Wukong originated from the Dragon Palace of the East Sea, where the Dragon King resided in the Crystal Palace. Today, Donghai County is known as the "World Crystal Capital," dazzling the world with its brilliant crystals.
Fig.1: Donghai Crystal Museum; Fig.2: Sparkling Donghai crystals.
Fig.1 photographed by Li Qiong, Fig.2 photographed by Shu Xiaojian.
In contrast, the four counties (districts) of Guanyun, Guannan, Ganyu, and Lianyun, which do not have "海" in their names, are closely connected to the sea. Among them, Guannan County ranks first in China in the concentration of industrialized edible fungi, with dozens of varieties. Interestingly, Guanyun County accounts for over 60% of the nation's lingerie industry scale, earning it the title "Oriental Victoria's Secret."
From Ganyu's seafood to Donghai's crystals, and from Lianyun District's pharmaceutical companies to the edible fungi of Guannan and Guanyun, these significant industries nestled between the mountains and the sea epitomize Lianyungang's "diverse transformations."
Guanyun County's mushrooms are exported to overseas markets.
Zhao Benfu, author of "A World Without Thieves," once said: "If cities were to be divided into realism and romanticism, Lianyungang undoubtedly belongs to the latter." Compared to the mundane atmosphere, this mountain-sea city exudes more wildness, divinity, and ethereality—a rarity among Chinese cities.
Sun Wukong, the "rock 'n' roll stone" and "Byron among monkeys," best represents Lianyungang. "Trampling hardships into broad roads, overcoming obstacles to embark anew," this Yellow Sea pearl nestled between mountains and the sea, a microcosm of "Maritime Jiangsu," is still striving to write its own "New Journey to the West" legend!
Writing the "New Journey to the West" for ordinary people.
Unsigned image source | Visual China