The Most Overlooked City in Jiangsu: How Does Its Spring Delicacies Outshine Yangzhou and Suzhou?

The most worthwhile city to visit in spring south of the Yangtze, in two words.

Crab roe soup dumplings, the star of Taizhou's morning tea.

Taizhou is located in central Jiangsu Province, once part of Yangzhou before becoming an independent city with Jingjiang, Taixing, and Xinghua. Here, you can enjoy a morning tea with more variety than Yangzhou, featuring dried tofu shreds with seasonal side dishes and the unique fish noodle soup as its highlights. The signature soup dumplings are filled not only with savory crab roe but also fresh green vegetables, showcasing Taizhou's meticulousness.

Braised pufferfish, Taizhou's ultimate delicacy.

Photo / Tuchong Creative / Photographer: Star-dust

Beyond fish noodle soup, Taizhou's crisscrossing waterways, including Qinhu Lake, offer year-round delights—from Xingyi's river snails in spring to Qinhu Lake's mitten crabs in autumn.

Just how special is Taizhou's morning tea?

Every March, Yangzhou is packed with tourists. If you're visiting just for morning tea, consider heading to Taizhou instead. Historically, Yangzhou and Taizhou were one, sharing the same tea tradition. Some say Taizhou learned from Xinghua, and Xinghua from Yangzhou, but the differences simply reflect local produce. Asked what sets Taizhou's morning tea apart? The answer: it’s the same yet different everywhere.

The Taizhou School, one of the largest Ming Dynasty folk philosophies, advocated "daily life as the way," emphasizing simplicity. Perhaps influenced by this, Taizhou's morning tea is humble. Unlike Yangzhou’s famed "Three Springs" teahouses or the grandeur of Quyuan near Slender West Lake, locals prefer crowded, no-frills neighborhood spots—unpretentious, unpolished, but full of flavor.

Free from tourist crowds, Taizhou's morning tea remains a daily ritual with full ceremony. A proper meal includes "one tea, three dim sums, one noodle": tea with dried tofu shreds (the starter), followed by buns, shaomai, and dumplings (the highlights), and ending with fish noodle soup. The progression—light to rich, subtle to bold—mirrors a symphony.

Taizhou's morning tea begins with a cup of tea.

Taizhou's dried tofu shreds come in two styles: braised (for banquets) and blanched (for tea). Local white tofu is sliced into 20+ layers with a crescent knife, blanched in alkaline water for springy texture, then topped with garnishes and sesame oil. Similar to Yangzhou’s at first glance, but Taizhou’s version is notably smoother and chewier.

Taizhou's dried tofu shreds are silkier and more resilient.

The "three dim sums" umbrella covers buns, shaomai, and dumplings, but the selection expands seasonally—from shepherd’s purse buns in spring to poria buns in summer. Yet the crown jewel is crab roe soup dumplings. Eating them is more like drinking: translucent skin cradles a broth of crab roe and chicken soup. Locals master the art: "Lift gently, move slowly, pierce a window, sip the soup."

A bowl of crab roe chicken soup hides inside the dumpling.

Even crab roe dumplings vary: Jingjiang’s are pure broth with crab meat, wobbling like water balloons, while Quxia’s include pork for heartier flavor. The showstopper? Vegetable soup dumplings—golden crab replaced by emerald-green veggie broth, bursting with seasonal freshness.

Crab roe dumplings packed with crab meat.

Fish noodle soup, the grand finale. Eel bones, pork, and crucian carp simmer into a milky broth, blending with wheat noodles for a silky, umami-rich bowl. The same broth elevates wontons, their thin wrappers soaking up Taizhou’s essence.

Fish noodle soup, the closing act of Taizhou's morning tea.

Freshness is Taizhou cuisine’s eternal theme—not just in dawn’s crab dumplings or fish noodles, but in every meal, every season.

Taizhou, anciently known as Hailing, is situated at the mouth of the Yangtze River, the lower reaches of the Huai River, and by the sea, where the three waters converge. The region is crisscrossed with rivers and canals, earning it the nickname "Water City" among locals, who affectionately refer to their lifestyle as "Water City Slow Living." The waters have endowed Taizhou with a salt-tax culture, prosperity, and an endless supply of umami flavors for its cuisine.

Fishermen sell river delicacies at the Yupo Market.

Qinhu Lake, located in the northeastern suburbs of Taizhou, is connected to nine rivers and features vast expanses of water and intricate waterways. Hidden within its reedy wetlands and azure waters are Taizhou's most prized delicacies: the "Eight Treasures of Qinhu." These include Qinhu Lake crabs, Qinghu Lake shrimp, Qinhu Lake soft-shelled turtles, Qinhu Lake whitebait, Qinhu Lake "Four Delights," Qinhu Lake snails and clams, Qinhu Lake waterfowl, and Qinhu Lake aquatic vegetables. Taizhou even has a specialty dish that combines all eight treasures in one pot, offering a taste of Qinhu's bounty in a single bite.

The Qinhu Lake crab, the crown jewel of the Eight Treasures, rivals those from Yangcheng Lake. The "duàn" in its name refers to a vertical barrier in the water. Around Mid-Autumn, when crabs migrate to the Yangtze estuary to spawn, locals set up these barriers. To pass, the crabs must climb over, ensuring each one is muscular and robust, resulting in rich, flavorful meat. Qinhu crabs have also refined locals' palates—they can instantly discern whether the crab roe in soup dumplings comes from live or dead crabs. In Qintong Town, where Qinhu Lake is located, fish cakes and shrimp balls are also specialties, minced and either fried, pan-seared, or boiled, earning them the title of "Twin Jewels of Qinhu."

Every Qinhu Lake crab is fresh, plump, and delicious.

Further north, Xinghua, a land of fish and rice, produces equally succulent crabs. Steaming is just the basics; proximity to the source allows for more extravagant preparations. Some dishes involve extracting and mincing crab roe and meat for dishes like crab roe tofu, while others preserve excess crabs in wine to make drunken crabs, with Zhongzhuang drunken crabs being the best—salty, savory, and meaty.

Drunken crabs were originally invented to preserve surplus live crabs.

The labyrinthine waters teem with more than just crabs—fish and shrimp abound. Xinghua is particularly known for its eels, which are shredded and stir-fried with spring chives for a layered umami experience. Grass carp from Shagou's rivers and lakes are transformed into large fish balls, tender and springy.

Shagou fish balls showcase the silky, bouncy texture of the fish.

To the south, Jingjiang borders the Yangtze River, famed since ancient times for its "Three Delicacies." While the true Yangtze swordfish and shad are now rare, the bold may still "risk death for pufferfish." Most pufferfish today are farmed, with minimal toxins, and Jingjiang chefs' expert handling ensures safety. Pufferfish can be braised, stewed, or cooked with clover in spring. The skin is the most prized part—rich and chewy—but must be eaten carefully, rolled up to avoid the spines. A local saying goes, "One taste of pufferfish, and all other fish are forgotten." As the grand finale of Jingjiang banquets, it lives up to its reputation.

Braised pufferfish, with its irresistible skin.

Jingjiang pork jerky, Huangqiao sesame cakes.

As the "twelfth sister" among Jiangsu's "Thirteen Heroes," Taizhou is a low-profile new city. Yangzhou natives often say, "Taizhou used to be part of Yangzhou." To Suzhou residents, it’s just another northern Jiangsu town. Northerners might ask, "Is that Taizhou near Mount Tai?"

Though Taizhou flies under the radar, these two iconic foods will ring a bell: Huangqiao sesame cakes and Jingjiang pork jerky.

Jingjiang pork jerky, the favorite snack of the "free shipping zone" dwellers.

Huangqiao Town, in Taixing City, Taizhou, is a gateway to southern Jiangsu. Its portable sesame cakes became famous as souvenirs due to the town's bustling traffic. Locals, however, insist on freshly baked cakes from the oven—never reheated or cold. Crispy and warm, paired with barley porridge, they’re a unique central Jiangsu breakfast.

Huangqiao cakes are distinguished by their dense sesame topping. Taizhou loves sesame—white sesame has been cultivated here since ancient times, giving rise to the "Three Sesames of Taizhou": sesame oil, sesame cakes, and sesame cookies (some joke the third is mahjong, given locals' passion for the game). Sesame oil flavors dried tofu shreds and buns, while sesame cakes and cookies are daily treats.

Huangqiao sesame cakes, blanketed in sesame seeds.

Jingjiang pork jerky needs no introduction—savory, chewy, and lingeringly flavorful, it’s Jiangsu’s beloved snack.

Pork jerky under light, so thin it’s translucent.

"Though this city is not large, it abounds in all kinds of earthly happiness" — this was Marco Polo's exclamation when visiting Taizhou. Spring has arrived, and the rapeseed flowers in Xinghua are in full bloom. Taizhou is worth a visit.

The rapeseed flowers in Xinghua, Taizhou, are in full bloom.

This article is original content from [Authentic Local].