The Northwest Carb Capital Where Oil-Fried Bread and Fine Noodles Bloom, Keeping Millions Awake with Cravings

How popular is Xi'an during May Day? Netizens joke: 200 million people are in Xi'an, with another 500 million on the way.

As everyone knows, Xi'an is a capital of carb-heavy foods.

Fig. 1 Liangpi (cold skin noodles); Photo by Yisann. Fig. 2 Roujiamo (Chinese hamburger); Photo by Chaiqianjie.

Fig. 3 Yangrou paomo (pita bread soaked in lamb soup); Photo by Xiao Yang, a life lover. Fig. 4 Youpo lazhi mian (noodles with chili oil); Photo by Yisann.

As the local band Hei Sa sang in "Xi'an Cuisine": "Take a bite of youpo noodles, and the deliciousness makes you shiver; spinach noodles are nutritious, absolutely amazing..." What many don't know is that Xi'an's food scene differs drastically between day and night. When Xi'an cuisine switches to "night mode," it can stuff you sleepless yet never disappoint your taste buds.

Xi'an's midnight snack version of "Han Xizai's Night Banquet."

There’s no clear record of when Xi'an's night markets emerged. Zhang Lin's "Night Markets of the Tang Dynasty" and You Xiuyun's "Research on Night Markets in Tang Poetry" studied Tang-era night markets. The story of "The Longest Day in Chang'an" takes place during the Lantern Festival, when the court lifted the "curfew," giving citizens a chance to revel—a precursor to night markets.

Photo from the TV series "The Longest Day in Chang'an."

Barbecue, Xi'an's night market "soft name card."

Northwesterners call barbecue "kaorou" (grilled meat), and it’s practically the night market's "soft name card." If a friend says, "Let’s hit the night market!" they likely mean barbecue.

Xi'an barbecue can be divided into two main schools: sauce-brushed and direct-spiced, with marinating as another method—further split into batter-coated and non-coated.

The sauce for brushing is made by frying salt, chili, cumin, and other spices in oil, then slathering it thickly on the meat during grilling to preserve its tenderness.

Raw meat (sprinkled with cumin and chili powder).

"Bei" meat tendons: The joy of bursting oil in one bite.

Xi'an’s seasoned foodies prefer seasoning raw meat skewered on iron sticks directly with salt, chili powder, and cumin. Grilled over charcoal, the fat and spices create a unique aroma under high heat.

The quality of grilled meat tendons determines a restaurant’s reputation among connoisseurs. Using beef plate rib meat, the skewers must balance fat and lean, with precise control of temperature and timing. Xi'an locals have a special term for grilling meat tendons over low heat: "bei"—slow, even cooking. The chef flips a handful of skewers continuously, letting the fat’s rendered juices baste the lean meat.

One bite delivers a burst of fatty richness without greasiness—tender yet chewy, utterly delightful. Meat tendons, lamb, kidneys, chicken wings, and gizzards are the "hits" of Xi'an barbecue.

Perfectly grilled kidneys should be crispy outside and tender inside, with no gaminess. Take a bite of garlic first, then the kidney—it neutralizes grease and masks any off-flavors.

A handful of small skewers, threading together Chang'an’s nightscape.

Compared to the first two methods, red willow skewers use marinating with batter—pre-soaked in secret spices.

Willow branches are whittled into skewers for meat. During grilling, they secrete a sticky sap that not only neutralizes the gaminess of lamb but also infuses the meat with the distinctive fragrance of willow. The lamb chunks are large, with a crispy exterior and tender, juicy inside.

Grilled Oil Bread: Xi’an’s “Carb Frisbee”

Every time we have barbecue, we always order one or two pieces of grilled oil bread. Paired with skewered meat, it’s both filling and delicious.

Grilled Oil Bread: The Shaanxi Version of “Pineapple Bun.”

Common oil bread comes in round or rectangular shapes, requiring different cutting techniques. First, brush a layer of oil, which seeps in during grilling, then sprinkle with cumin and chili. The bread must be eaten hot—its outer layer turns golden and crispy, rich with oily fragrance.

Besides, garlic grilled oil bread is also highly flavorful. Thick minced garlic melds perfectly with the wheat aroma, making it irresistible. There’s also a type of oil bread in local eateries served plain, usually grilled by the owner himself, meant to be eaten with barbecue.

Grilled Leeks: The “Star” of Vegetarian Dishes in the Northwest

Grilled leeks are the “star” of vegetarian dishes in Xi’an barbecue. While many cities serve them skewered, Xi’an serves them by the plate.

A bunch of leeks is trimmed evenly at both ends for neatness and ease of handling. Brush with oil while grilling, flipping constantly. They soften in about two minutes, at which point seasoning is added. A plate of neatly arranged, vibrant green leeks boosts appetite instantly.

Picking up the leeks with chopsticks from the middle, their crisp-tender texture in the mouth is truly a delight.

Compared to the “ferocity” of grilled meat, Xi’an’s night markets also offer some “soupy” dishes. Their rich sauces or high temperatures can easily stain clothes or burn mouths—gentle handling is key, without shaky hands.

Beef Tripe and Tofu Skin: Xi’an’s “Sesame Paste Worship”

Boiled beef tripe and tofu skin are also iconic Xi’an snacks. One meat, one veggie—the standard order starts at 20 skewers each.

Fresh beef tripe slices are skewered and blanched in boiling broth until semi-transparent, then laid on a plate. A layer of sesame paste is poured over, followed by a spoonful of chili oil.

Watching the preparation of boiled beef tripe can make one hungry.

Photo / No EDC in the Dish

Almost every table shouts, “More sesame paste!” Once served, the tripe is slid off the skewers. Each piece is dipped generously in the sauce, blending the tripe’s freshness, the broth’s aroma, and the sesame paste’s richness. The texture is crisp, tender, and slightly spicy, with a satisfying chew. The tofu skin’s clean bean flavor, mingled with the broth’s richness, can even outshine meat.

To finish, use chopsticks as a brush and the tripe or tofu skin as the tip, scooping up the remaining sauce to write the final stroke of “Night’s Third Chapter.”

Clay Pot Rice Noodles: Flavors Altered by Xi’an’s College Students

Xi’an ranks sixth in China for the number of universities, attracting students nationwide—and their cuisines. Though clay pot rice noodles didn’t originate here, local adaptations have given them a distinct Xi’an flair. The focus is on simplicity and abundant toppings!

Making clay pot rice noodles is also a visual delight.

Ingredients like kelp, tofu skin, greens, mushrooms, and quail eggs are boiled in the clay pot, followed by a handful of rice noodles. Some vendors add a spoonful of special sauce, which includes fried tofu. It’s flavorful without being too filling. Women, with relatively smaller appetites, prefer soupy dishes.

When served, the soup is still piping hot. Many women use both a spoon and chopsticks—placing the noodles on the spoon before eating, which is more elegant and helps cool the food.

Eating clay pot rice noodles requires "double-handed coordination."

Photo/wang_rose

In Xi'an, daytime noodles are judged by color—white or slightly yellow indicates chewiness. Perhaps because night weakens vision, smell and taste sharpen, so nighttime noodles emphasize seasoning.

Stir-fried thin noodles are "nighttime exclusives."

Photo/Tu Rui; Image/图虫·创意

This has given rise to noodle dishes unique to the night—the same noodles taste different after dark.

Cumin stir-fried thin noodles: The "soulmate" of Xi'an's night markets.

Cumin stir-fried thin noodles are the soul of Xi'an's night markets. Even after烧烤 and beer, people often say: "Let’s split a plate of stir-fried noodles!"

The noodles are pressed, steamed, and coated with oil to prevent sticking. Varieties include meat or egg stir-fry. For egg stir-fry, eggs are scrambled or fried into a pancake with a slight crisp.

For cumin stir-fried noodles, pile on the veggies and crank up the heat.

Onions, green peppers, and bean sprouts are the main accompaniments. Heat the wok, add oil and veggies, then squeeze sauce from a bottle. Toss in the noodles at high heat, finish with cumin and chili flakes. Peel garlic while waiting—pair bites of egg and noodles for a cumin-infused feast.

Huitong noodles: Asia’s largest open-air noodle hall.

Xi'an and Xianyang have always been one city—as Sima Qian wrote, "Qin’s Xianyang is Han’s Chang’an." Just 28 km apart, many Xi'aners drive to Xianyang late at night just for noodles.

Xianyang has a night market born from noodle stalls—Huitong Square, dubbed "Asia’s largest open-air noodle hall." Over 50 stalls sell only Huitong noodles, a 20-year tradition from 6 PM to 4-5 AM.

Huitong noodles blend traits of saozi and dry mixed noodles. Hand-pulled, they’re heavy on toppings (potato, carrot, and minced meat) and light on broth. Vendors prep toppings at home, boil noodles onsite, and serve them mixed in stainless steel bowls—chewy, spicy, and melt-in-your-mouth Shaanxi style.

Bonus: Xi'an’s night market drink "hierarchy."

Ice Peak: The go-to soda for烤肉 in the Muslim Quarter. Its slogan—"Drinking it since childhood"—reflects its status among old Xi'aners. Always opt for the glass bottle.

Sour Plum Drink: Sour plum drink is also a great choice for summer. Chilled and served, it offers a delightful balance of sweet and sour, leaving a refreshing and lingering taste that delights the senses.

Figure 1: Ice Peak; Photo/ by Firefly. Figure 2: Sour Plum Drink; Photo/ by Big Mango.

Figure 3: 9° Beer; Photo/ by Mr. Ke. Figure 4: Hans Little Cabin; Photo/ by Eat Drink Play.

Hans Little Cabin: A pineapple-flavored carbonated drink, originally with a slight alcohol content, now alcohol-free but still evoking the sensation of drinking beer. It has won the "affection" of many young women!

9° Beer: Since its inception, it has firmly held a place in the hearts of Xi'an locals. Many beer lovers have memories of sitting at small roadside tables with a case of 9° Beer at their feet.

"Located in Xi'an, high and cold in climate, the people are tough—prone to producing sages, but also fools." This is how Jia Pingwa describes the character of Xi'an people, praising and criticizing in equal measure, summed up in one word: "stubborn!"

The vibrant nightlife of Xi'an's late-night snacks.

For Xi'an locals, there’s no pretense at a barbecue stall. True friends gather around the table, braving the night breeze, grilling skewers, downing a few beers, and chatting freely, momentarily forgetting life’s troubles—this is what they call a joyful life.

Special thanks to our expert interviewee/reviewer—

Li Fengyang, Xi'an cultural historian and renowned science blogger.

This article is original content from [Di Dao Feng Wu].