Chongqing locals say they love eating xiaomian for breakfast,
because they're afraid you'll drive up the prices of other delicacies!
In people's impressions, Chongqing is a fantastical and fiery "city of nights." The aroma of boiling hotpot with red oil, beer bottles dripping with condensation, and the bold, straightforward Chongqing girls must mingle with neon lights in shades of blue, green, and purple to form the most vivid and three-dimensional image of this mountain city.
But Chongqing belongs not only to the late night but also to the early morning. When the lights dim and dawn breaks, the hungry city is awakened by breakfast stalls—only then do you understand why this old city is forever brimming with vitality.
Carb overload! As a well-connected port city, Chongqing defies the stereotype of "rice noodles in the south, wheat noodles in the north." Here, people devour noodles and slurp rice noodles with gusto, not to mention hearty bowls of tofu rice. And let’s not forget the countless glutinous rice cakes—steamed, fried, pan-seared—sweet, spicy, or savory, with rice fragrance unleashed by protein and fat in a full-blown carnival.
A meat feast! Forget about light breakfasts—starting an energy-packed day here means indulging in meat. Tendon, gizzard, tender intestines—these are the perfect companions for noodles and rice noodles. And then there’s Wanzhou’s beloved "gege" (steamed dishes), where spareribs or pork belly steamed with rice flour detonate a bomb of happiness first thing in the morning.
Braised pork belly and steamed pork with rice flour—yes, such hearty dishes are also breakfast fare here.
A bowl of noodles or a bowl of rice? The battle of heavyweight staples rages on.
What should you eat for breakfast in Chongqing?
Eighty percent of people will give this answer: xiaomian!
Of course, you must try xiaomian when in Chongqing!
The act of "slurping a bowl of noodles" holds a lofty and unshakable status in the hearts of Chongqing locals. But beyond xiaomian, the city boasts a diverse and thriving world of carb-based staples.
Xiaomian, and the xiaomian that isn’t really xiaomian.
What is xiaomian? Strictly speaking, "xiao" means "plain"—xiaomian should be alkaline noodles boiled in a simple broth, with minimal meat in the toppings. A scoop of lard from an ice cream stick is already a luxurious upgrade. The broth isn’t the star; the magic lies in the seasonings—charred chili, chili oil, Sichuan pepper powder, ginger-garlic water, scallions, cilantro, crushed peanuts... Each combination holds a delicious code etched into the local DNA.
A spoonful of fiery chili oil is essential for delicious xiaomian.
Every xiaomian vendor is a master of multitasking: holding one bowl in each hand, balancing another on their arm, while a small spoon dances deftly among a dozen condiments. Each bowl handed out is a precise, bold flavor bomb, no matter how complex your request—guaranteed to leave you delightfully numb and satisfyingly spicy.
Strictly speaking, pea noodle, beef noodle, and gizzard noodle go beyond the "plain noodles with red oil" definition and shouldn’t count as xiaomian. But Chongqing locals aren’t pedantic—if it’s delicious and loved, it’s fair game. Order a bowl of intestine noodles, letting a spoonful of chili oil enhance the rich, chewy fat. Follow it with gizzard noodles, crunching on the chewy texture while gulping down a broth bursting with pickled pepper flavor—so spicy it brings tears, yet you can’t put the bowl down.
Intestine noodles, trotter noodles—as long as they’re tasty, they’re regulars at xiaomian joints.
It’s worth noting that fiery xiaomian actually carries traces of Jiangnan (southern China) influence. The broad-brothed xiaomian is essentially a spicy version of Yangchun noodles. Local jargon like "no red (clear broth, no spice)," "no green (no veggies)," or "yellow lift (noodles cooked briefly until slightly yellow)" may be Chongqing specialties, but they share roots with Jiangnan’s noodle terminology.
Doesn’t it look just like Yangchun noodles?
This culinary tradition naturally traces back to the Anti-Japanese War period, when Chongqing, as the "provisional capital," welcomed bureaucrats and merchants from all over, absorbing Jiangnan's dietary habits. Starting from the 1930s, Chongqing locals developed the habit of eating noodles (especially soup noodles) in the morning, and the city's "xiaomian" took a different flavor path from the "dandan noodles" of the Sichuan Basin.
Chongqing is vast, and its noodles are diverse. For true noodle connoisseurs, Wanzhou is the place to go—its "xiaomian," cold noodles, and "zajiang noodles" are all outstanding, arguably surpassing those in the city center.
First, the noodles here differ from those in the city center—thin yet chewy, able to hold up to boiling while absorbing flavors. The seasoning style is also distinct. Take summer cold noodles, for example: they don’t emphasize numbing spiciness but instead feature a generous dollop of yellow mustard mixed with large mustard seeds, tossed with garlic water. One bite sends a sharp kick straight to the nose, yet it’s not overwhelming—just a refreshing, sinus-clearing thrill that melts away the summer heat.
Wanzhou’s cold noodles are particularly distinctive.
In Wanzhou, don’t miss the "hard dishes"—not the famous grilled fish, but "gege." "Gege" refers to small bamboo steamers, about the size of a palm, layered with taro, potatoes, or sweet potatoes and topped with meats like lamb, intestines, ribs, or pork belly. Dozens of steamers are stacked neatly over a roaring fire, creating a spectacular scene of billowing steam. The result is a fresh, spicy, and deeply satisfying feast.
Photo by Yang Yucheng / Tuchong Creative
These "gege" embody the rugged spirit of dock culture. Walk into a shop, call out, "Two lamb ones, tender!" and a quick-handed server will bring two steamers, swiftly sprinkling them with pepper, scallions, and cilantro. Pair it with steamed meat patties and a bowl of "zhengzi rice," and you’ve got a full meal—eaten in the morning, no less, making it all the more bold. For a gentler option, have it with "xiaomian," mixing large chunks of steamed pork into the noodles—numbing, spicy, savory, and fragrant, leaving you sweating as if your stomach housed a furnace.
Rice must be steamed in a "zhengzi" to taste right!
Chongqing has many other noodles, like the thick, quilt-like "pugai noodles," the "dadamian" favored in Fengjie, and the mung bean noodles common in Shizhu. Rice noodles are another inseparable sibling—wide, round, or thin, plus sour and spicy sweet potato noodles. Every morning, half the mountain city hums with the happy slurping of noodles, waiting for you to explore each shop.
"Pugai noodles"—thicker and heartier than meat.
"Douhua rice," the timeless comfort food of old Chongqing.
As mentioned earlier, the habit of "starting the day with a bowl of 'xiaomian'" only took root in Chongqing in the 1930s. Before that, "douhua rice" had dominated the breakfast scene for over a century, remaining the city’s most beloved carb-loaded comfort food to this day.
"Douhua rice" with "shaobai"—the ultimate breakfast energy boost.
A bowl of "douhua rice" can be broken down into three essentials: tofu pudding, rice, and dipping sauce.
First, the tofu pudding. Unlike sweet dessert tofu or northern "tofu brain," Chongqing’s "douhua" is tender yet firm, set with "danba" (bittern). It holds its shape when picked up with chopsticks—soft yet substantial, melting in the mouth like a bite of cloud.
The giant pot of simmering tofu pudding is a hallmark of "douhua" eateries.
"Zhengzi rice" needs no introduction—steamed with a touch of cornmeal, each grain plump and fragrant, it’s the ultimate belly-filling fuel.
The magic lies in the dipping sauce! Pre-made chili oil lacks soul; freshly pounded chilies are a must. Add crushed peanuts to taste, then—a solid ladle of sizzling hot oil poured over with a dramatic "hiss!" While the oil still bubbles and the aroma explodes, toss in a spoonful of pickled mustard, followed by salt, MSG, soy sauce, and a finish of scallions and cilantro. The freshly made sauce is so irresistible it feels like tiny claws are scratching at your throat. Dip a piece of tofu, roll it in the sauce until it trembles under a coat of red oil, and suddenly, the rice vanishes in seconds.
"Douhua" with sides and dipping sauce—a rice-devouring marvel, no exaggeration.
The gentlest chewiness, the fiercest energy bomb.
The fast-paced Chongqing also has a sweet and gentle side. To taste this mountain city, you need to wander its streets and alleys, searching for those breakfast stalls carried on shoulder poles or pushed on carts.
Ironing Cake is an unforgettable sweet memory for Chongqing kids. Rice batter mixed with eggs, sugar, and osmanthus honey is poured into molds and pan-fried into golden, fluffy little treats with a caramelized aroma that can lure children from half a street away. Even adults, upon spotting Ironing Cake, will immediately call friends to join a long queue—who cares about being late for work? Missing out on this deliciousness would bring three months of regret!
Ironing Cake, springy to the touch.
Fig.1 Photo by Dawei; Fig.2 Photo by Jingjing.
White Rice Cake is simpler to make. Soaked glutinous rice and regular rice are ground into flour and steamed into light, subtly sweet rice cakes. "Triangle Cake" can be seen as its upgraded version—instead of steaming, the rice batter is poured into molds and baked until crispy. Eaten hot, the outer layer is delightfully crunchy, the sweetness bursting on the tongue, and paired with a big sip of soy milk, it satisfies the newly awakened appetite instantly.
Freshly steamed White Rice Cake, soft and sweet.
The most unforgettable is still the Glutinous Rice Ball. Wrapping fried dough sticks in glutinous rice is similar to Jiangnan’s Cifan Rice Ball, and it indeed drifted down the Yangtze River during the wartime capital era. However, while Cifan is savory, Chongqing locals sprinkle sugar on the glutinous rice, wrap the fried dough stick tightly, and roll it in soybean flour—sweet, sticky, and hearty, with just a hint of savory crispiness in the middle. Simple yet addictive.
Don’t let the sweet snacks fool you—take a bite of Ci Ba Block, and you’ll immediately remember where you are. It’s seemingly harmless fried glutinous rice, often hiding among sweet sesame balls and fried dough twists, masquerading as a gentle treat. But it’s not just savory—it’s numbing, with visible Sichuan peppercorns in every bite. Without the skill to "dodge the spice," the only solution is to wash it down quickly with a big bowl of porridge, embracing this electrifying joy.
Sweet, spicy, savory, fragrant… Broths are never just sidekicks.
Even in the furnace-like mountain city, there are chilly, foggy mornings when nothing warms you up better than a bowl of Oil Tea.
Oil Tea is also a breakfast older than Chongqing noodles.
Oil Tea isn’t tea but a smooth, sticky rice porridge cooked with multiple seasonings, drizzled with chili oil, and rimmed with lard—savory and delicious. The real magic lies in the golden, crispy "San Zi" (fried noodles). Don’t mix them all in at once to avoid sogginess. Take a bite, stir a little, letting the rice fragrance blend with the crispy oiliness, while crunchy soybeans and refreshing pickled radish dance in your mouth—a riot of flavors exploding in the heat.
"Oil Fermented Glutinous Rice" is the sweet bomb among broths.
Sweet fermented glutinous rice (jiuniang) is stir-fried in lard with peanuts, sesame, and crushed walnuts, sweetened with brown sugar, and enriched with honey dates, longan, lily bulbs, and osmanthus—a sweetness without limits, overwhelming the senses. After frying, water is added to simmer, releasing a thick, steaming sweetness. Don’t forget to add a soft-boiled egg, letting the molten yolk mingle with the Oil Fermented Glutinous Rice—a taste of heaven.
Starting the day with a belly full of energy might feel too heavy? Then try a bowl of Vegetable Porridge. At just a few yuan, its shockingly low price delivers the most astonishing experience: a self-service condiment bar, like stumbling into a Sichuan pickles museum—radish cubes, ginger slices, sour cowpeas, pickled lotus root, preserved vegetable shreds, chili threads, potato shreds, seaweed, dried radish, fermented black beans… A whole table of delights, all free to take!
All this is really free to eat?!
Breakfast stalls—the crossroads of a hundred lives in magical Chongqing.
Around all-night mahjong parlors, there are always noodle shops serving uncles and aunties after their late-night battles, soon switching to feeding early-rising workers. Tofu Pudding restaurants host tourists and "Bang Bang" porters taking a break after unloading their first loads. Porridge and steamed buns, though breakfast staples, often run late into the night—whether you’re exhausted from partying or catching up on sleep after overtime, they’ll fill your stomach before you sink into sweet dreams.
If you’re hungry, anywhere can be a dining table.
The allure of late-night drinks pales next to morning porridge. In Chongqing’s dawn light, lies the fervent history, memories, future, and longing of an old city.
Featured image | Blogger with a head of curly wool
This article is original content from [Di Dao Feng Wu]