The Ultimate Guide to Northwest China's Carb Delights: 100 Ways to Enjoy Steamed Buns Alone

What can make a Shaanxi local put down their noodle bowl?

For the people of Shaanxi, half of their wheat flour becomes noodles, while the other half becomes "mo" (steamed buns or flatbreads).

In the "carb-loving province" of Shaanxi, simple and convenient "jiamo" (stuffed buns) are a daily staple. Steamed buns, lotus-leaf buns, Baiji flatbreads, baked sesame cakes... the variety of "mo" serves as versatile "containers." Stuffed inside could be braised pork, beef or lamb, tea eggs, tofu, stir-fried peppers and potatoes, steamed minced meat, or all kinds of grilled or fried skewers—whether meat or veg, lavish or frugal, it's up to you.

Slightly more elaborate are the soup-soaked "paomo," a hearty meal. Xi’an’s lamb or beef paomo is rich and savory, while "hulutou paomo" (pork intestine stew) is thick and aromatic. Qianyang’s "dapao" features tender pork knuckle, Huyi’s "lazigeduo paomo" uses chili-oil-braised pork chunks, and Huayin’s "mashi paomo" comes with a veggie-packed broth...

Shaanxi-born writer Jia Pingwa once said, "The stomach has a memory." For 40 million Shaanxi locals, "mo" is one of the most cherished culinary protagonists.

The dazzling gold represents both the fertile loess of the 800-li Qinchuan Plain and the summer wheat fields. Having worked with wheat flour for 2,000 years, Shaanxi folks have mastered it—whether as noodles or "mo," it perfectly solves three meals a day.

In Pucheng, a county rich in artifacts, steamed buns mimic traditional roof rafters—smooth "chuantou mo" are household staples. Lintong’s "guanguan mo" has a plump round top and a cinched waist, adorable and filling. Xunyi’s "huazi mo" involves extra steps like layering and shaping, emerging like fragrant white lotuses, delicious with just a dip of chili sauce.

A roasting technique unlocks wheat flour’s crispiness in more varieties. Among the earliest is "shizi mo" (stone-baked flatbread), pressed between scorching pebbles until thin and crunchy.

One of the "Eight Oddities of Guanzhong"—"guokui as big as a wok lid"—refers to Qian County’s massive, awe-inspiring pan-baked flatbread. In contrast, "mo doudou" (tiny dried bun cubes) are bite-sized and crispy, adored by kids.

Beyond size, Shaanxi’s "mo" also mimics ancient architecture. Liquan’s "zhudingshi mo" resembles pillar bases, while Xingping’s "yunyun mo" twists dough into cloud-like shapes, showcasing artisanship.

Fufeng’s "lugao mo" (deer cake bun) symbolizes prosperity, stamped with a red deer and sweetened with sugar and milk powder. Xunyi’s "dog-tongue bun" (now round) keeps its peppery aroma from roasted then steamed dough with Sichuan pepper leaves.

Sanyuan’s "qianceng youbing" (layered oil cake), aka "money oil tower" or "rag-skewered cake," blurs the line between cake and steamed dough—fluffed apart with chopsticks, paired with soy milk and pickles.

In Shaanxi, "mo" can hold *everything*!

With "mo" ready, it’s time for "roujiamo" (meat-stuffed buns).

A classic "lazhi roujiamo" stuffs slow-braised pork into a split Baiji flatbread, drizzled with broth—satisfying both bun and meat cravings. The freshly baked bun’s crisp shell and fluffy interior are key to soaking up the juicy pork.

Outside Shaanxi, "roujiamo" usually means the braised pork version, but locally, it’s just one of many.

Xi’an’s Hui community stuffs "tuotuo mo" with rosy, tender beef or lamb. For bouncier meat, softer Baiji buns make great "jiangniurou jiamo" (sauce-braised beef buns).

Tongguan’s version dominates eastern Guanzhong, pairing cold spiced meat with flaky, golden "qianceng shaobing." Western Baoji and Qishan prefer sour-spicy minced meat ("saozirou jiamo") in steamed buns.

Xianyang offers two local favorites: "laohanxi" (soft lotus buns even elders can chew) and "guokui yazi" (crisp half-moon buns with braised pork).

Lintong’s "dog-tongue jiamo" packs more meat and chili into oblong oil cakes—one is enough for a big appetite.

The "dog tongue" roujiamo in Lintong's Youhuai Town is served with green peppers.

The diverse vegetable-stuffed buns are a daily staple for Shaanxi people. Even a spoonful of chili oil can be stuffed into a bun to satisfy a local's craving. With additions like eight-treasure chili or toon chili, the flavor and texture become even more exciting. More remarkably, Shaanxi locals even enjoy stuffing cold skin noodles into buns, creating a heavyweight carb bomb.

Give a Shaanxi person a bun, and they can hold the whole world in it—this is no exaggeration!

Shaanxi people can soak their buns in countless creative ways!

Give a Shaanxi person a bun and a bowl of broth, and what culinary wonders can they create?

Locals leisurely tear the dense unleavened bread into bean-sized pieces—only then can the tough dough soften while retaining its chewiness during stewing. When a bowl of lamb paomo, topped with sliced lamb, vermicelli, pickled garlic, and chili paste, is served, diners scrape the soaked bread layer by layer from the bowl's edge with their chopsticks.

Stir-fried paomo is a favorite among the younger crowd. With ingredients like daylily flowers, wood ear mushrooms, dried tofu, and greens, stir-fried with generous chili and vinegar, the robust beef or lamb broth blends with a tangy, spicy kick, making it incredibly satisfying.

Outside Xi'an, leavened buns take the spotlight, simply soaked briefly to absorb the broth. In Dali County, Weinan, the saying goes, "Dali has a quirk—selling half-moon-shaped buns." These semi-oval cakes are used for "water basin lamb." Diners either stuff sliced lamb directly into the bun or tear it into chunks to soak in the broth until soft and flavorful.

Qian County's guokui (crispy flatbread) is renowned. In western Guanzhong, it’s used for paomo. Whether in Liquan's water basin lamb or Qian and Fufeng's lamb paomo, sliced guokui is torn into chunks and added to piping-hot broth. Crispy twists, along with offal like lamb liver and blood, enrich the dish’s flavor.

In Fengxiang and Baoji, tofu pudding, guokui, and twists form the magical "tofu paomo." Silky tofu, chewy bread, and a drizzle of local chili oil create a simple yet delicious meal.

In Weinan and Huayin, "tofu paomo" is similar, but locals add pickled toon sprouts for a unique aroma blending with the tofu and wheat flavors.

North of Guanzhong, the Loess Plateau shapes another part of Shaanxi—Northern Shaanxi. Here, millet, buckwheat, and beans dominate the arid, cold climate. The folk song "Xintianyou" echoes over the land, landing on dining tables as the humble yet endearing "momomo."

Using local ingredients, Northern Shaanxi people steam soft, sweet yellow buns stuffed with dates and bean paste, adding delicate sweetness to the rugged plateau. Similarly, "pan momo" is griddled on one side, folded into crescents, offering a crispy exterior and tender interior.

Deep-fried "oil momo," another millet-based treat, follows the "grease for warmth" rule. These golden rings, skewered and kept warm, provide instant heat with every bite.

Hearty meat dishes define Northern Shaanxi cuisine. Free-range goats, fed on thyme-like herbs, yield tender, non-gamy meat. Offal stew is popular, paired with flaky "youxuan" pancakes for a filling meal. Braised pork, head meat, or spicy liver stuffed in soft or crispy buns create local "roujiamo" variants.

In Zichang and Qingjian, paper-thin buckwheat pancakes wrap crispy pork, head meat, or tofu, served with vinegar, garlic broth, or chili oil—a local obsession.

The Qinling Mountains divide Shaanxi’s wheat-growing Guanzhong from the rice-growing south. Yet, wheat-based buns have long traveled ancient mountain trails into this "land of fish and rice." Perhaps due to a culinary refinement gene, southern Shaanxi’s buns boast richer flavors and more ingredients.

Han Yin’s crispy "kangkangmo," studded with sesame, crumbles fragrantly at a touch. Legend says travelers carried these "earliest Chinese hardtack" on Qinling trails for days.

Another Han Yin specialty is greenish "mi hao mo," made with sticky rice and wild mugwort. The herb’s bitterness fades, leaving aroma—no filling needed to delight locals.

Ningqiang’s walnut buns feature ground sesame and walnut paste, baked until crumbly. Zhen’an’s "oil residue buns" mix lard crisps into dough, pan-fried until golden and fragrant.

Xie Village in Yang County is renowned for its rice wine, and the jujube cake steamed buns are fermented using the dregs of this wine. Sugar is added to the dough, which is then adorned with crushed jujubes and stamped with plum blossom patterns, making them both visually appealing and delicious. The Shiqian puffing bread magically swells during baking, transforming flat dough into semi-spherical shapes. Additionally, spicy hot pot buns and southern Shaanxi lamb soup have expanded the variety of bun-based dishes on the local dining table.

As China's fourth-largest plain, the Guanzhong Plain was formed by river alluvium and loess accumulation, boasting highly fertile soil. The basin environment, flanked by the Qinling Mountains and the Loess Plateau, creates ideal natural conditions for wheat cultivation. This has fostered the development of a wheat-based culinary culture here.

Almost all types of Shaanxi buns have a long history, with many being listed as intangible cultural heritage. The "steamed cakes" of the Qin State during the Warring States period are considered China's earliest steamed buns and Shaanxi's first buns. The Fuping Empress Dowager Cake is said to be linked to Empress Dowager Bo, mother of Emperor Wen of Han. During the Tang Dynasty, frequent exchanges along the Silk Road connected the Tuotuo bun with the Arab "Turm."

Shaanxi people's seasonal festivals and major life events are also adorned with buns. At the end of the lunar year, families busy themselves steaming New Year buns. Skilled women even shape dough into auspicious figures like insects, birds, fish, butterflies, flowers, fruits, dragons, phoenixes, and monkeys offering peaches.

In rural Baoji, to celebrate a baby's first month, a large decorative bun called "Qulian," resembling a lifebuoy, is placed around the child's neck. On the "Dragon Raises Head" festival (February 2nd), children eagerly await adults frying bun beans. In early spring, freshly picked wild vegetables are made into seasonal vegetable rolls and paper rolls.

The steam from steaming buns and the sizzle of griddle cakes fill every corner of Shaanxi's land day after day. For Shaanxi natives far from home, buns evoke nostalgia and an unforgettable taste of their homeland.

Text | Treetree, ZXZ

Cover image | Chencang Knows Fire