The Unsung King of Chinese Mushrooms Even Yunnan Bows To

What seemingly inconspicuous but actually extremely expensive things can be found in Northeast China? Deer antlers, ginseng, or forest frog oil? None of these. It’s something even Northeasterners often overlook—

Dried mushrooms. Northeastern mushrooms are sun-dried without prior washing, resulting in a dull, dusty package with the distinctive "earthy" aroma of fungi, making them appear worthless. But only Northeasterners know how precious these dried mushrooms truly are. If a Northeastern friend gifts you a bag of dried mushrooms, don’t underestimate them—it’s undoubtedly a heartfelt and valuable present. Most Northeastern mushrooms are wild-grown in mountain forests. Take the hazel mushrooms, commonly used in stewed chicken with mushrooms, for example: this variety still cannot be mass-cultivated artificially, and a single dried pound can cost over a hundred yuan.

But Northeastern mushrooms aren’t limited to hazel mushrooms. With abundant forest resources and a 47.2% forest coverage rate, Northeasterners enjoy a diverse array of delicious mushrooms, such as the small yellow mushrooms from Arxan, pine mushrooms from Changbai Mountain, spotted-face mushrooms under birch forests, hedgehog mushrooms in oak forests, rich boletus, and meaty red mushrooms.

Photo/Stracy1993

Northeastern mushrooms are more extraordinary than you could imagine.

When it comes to Northeastern mushrooms, the first dish that comes to mind is likely stewed chicken with mushrooms. This is the most famous and common way to enjoy Northeastern mushrooms, but it’s far from a simple, rustic dish—it’s rich and intriguing. For instance, if you ask Northeasterners what kind of mushrooms are used in the dish, you’ll get several different answers.

In Heilongjiang, hazel mushrooms are typically used, prized for their strong aroma, tender caps, and slightly chewy stems. In Liaoning, red mushrooms are preferred for their meaty texture, which is even more flavorful than the chicken itself. In Jilin, yellow mushrooms (locally called "yuan mushrooms") are often used, known for their broad, yellow caps and silky texture when stewed.

The choice of mushrooms for stewed chicken varies across the three Northeastern provinces.

Northeasterners exclusively use dried mushrooms for this dish. On one hand, the fresh mushroom season in the region is short, so surplus mushrooms are dried for preservation. On the other hand, some mushrooms develop richer flavors and new umami compounds after drying, enhancing their taste and texture.

At this point, you might wonder: Do Northeasterners eat fresh mushrooms at all? Yes, but not as often. Unlike Yunnan, Northeast China’s wild mushroom season is concentrated in the brief autumn rains, lasting only about a month at most.

Mushrooms sold at Linjiang Market in Jilin City during the harvest season.

How do Northeasterners store such large quantities of mushrooms? They rely on their traditional food preservation method: drying. Freshly picked mushrooms are processed the same day—cleaned of dirt and pine needles, split in half or quartered if larger, then strung up to dry. Splitting the mushrooms speeds up drying and helps shake out any hidden insects.

A scene of mushrooms drying in the Northeast autumn.

After sun-drying, every fold of the mushroom caps is infused with the warmth of the Northeastern autumn, sustaining locals through the long winter. Beyond stewed chicken, Northeasterners also frequently stir-fry mushrooms—simply rehydrated and cooked with potato slices or meat, with minimal seasoning. As the saying goes, the best ingredients require the simplest preparation.

In Northeast China, there isn’t a mountain without mushrooms.

Why does the region boast such a rich variety of mushrooms? The answer lies in its vast forests. While the Northeast is often associated with endless plains, it’s also home to the country’s largest natural forest area, encompassing the Greater and Lesser Khingan Mountains and Changbai Mountain.

The Northeast’s forest coverage spans over 60 million hectares, accounting for 27% of China’s total forest area—equivalent to 100 Shanghais. The region hosts more than 300 known edible fungi, with over 150 commonly consumed varieties. Among them, yellow mushrooms, hazel mushrooms, and hedgehog mushrooms are celebrated as the "Three Great Mushrooms of the Northeast" for their unique flavors.

The sheer size of Northeastern forests means distinct mushroom specialties grow in different mountain ranges. At the southwestern foothills of the Greater Khingan Mountains lies Arxan (from the Mongolian "hot holy spring"), a forested area with over 64% coverage despite its non-mountainous name.

Here grows a specialty mushroom—the small yellow mushroom, bright in color and delicate in texture, as its name suggests, with a subtle fragrance. Unfortunately, these mushrooms only appear for about a month in early autumn. If you visit Arxan in late September, you’ll be greeted not just by golden autumn foliage but also by dishes of tender stir-fried yellow mushrooms with meat.

Wild golden oyster mushrooms in Northeast China’s forests.

Over a thousand kilometers away in the Changbai Mountains grows another style of mushroom—the matsutake. Scientifically known as Tricholoma matsutake, it is named for its resemblance to young deer antlers when in bud and thrives under pine and oak trees. With a thick, fleshy body and tender texture, it emits a uniquely rich aroma. In Japan, matsutake is revered as the "divine mushroom," and through the spread of documentaries, it has become one of the most sought-after and expensive mushroom varieties in recent years.

Matsutake is named for its bud's resemblance to deer antlers.

When people mention matsutake, the first thing that comes to mind is often the Shangri-La matsutake from southwestern China. However, the Changbai Mountains in northeastern China also produce delicious matsutake, which happens to be the earliest-harvested in the world—available from mid-July to early September. One could even say that Northeasterners are the first in the world to enjoy fresh matsutake each year. Yanbian, near the Changbai Mountains, is also known as the "home of matsutake," once leading the country in production. In the hands of Yanbian locals, matsutake is used in stone-pot rice, ginseng chicken soup, and yellow beef soup, creating incredibly delicious dishes.

The distribution of mushrooms largely depends on natural factors such as climate, soil conditions, and host plant species. This means that in Northeast China, even on the same mountain, different altitudes and tree types can yield different mushrooms. Taking Changbai Mountain as an example, in broad-leaved forests at around 500 meters above sea level—such as birch, oak, and mixed forests—common edible mushrooms include the "flower-face mushroom," hedgehog mushroom, honey mushroom, and porcini. Notably, the porcini in the Northeast is primarily the Boletus edulis variety, which can grow exceptionally large, with caps reaching up to 20 cm in diameter and thick stems. While they can be dried, they are best enjoyed fresh for their plump, tender texture, simply stir-fried with peppers.

Honey mushrooms growing in the broad-leaved forests of Changbai Mountain.

At higher elevations in mixed coniferous and broad-leaved forests, mushrooms become more abundant and rare. Under fir and pine trees, prized varieties like lingzhi (reishi), matsutake, and "pine umbrella" (red mushroom) thrive. While lingzhi and matsutake are well-known, the "pine umbrella" refers to the red mushroom, which is brightly colored but non-toxic. It is rarely eaten fresh and is typically dried before being stir-fried with potatoes, yielding a flavor even more delicious than meat.

The "pine umbrella," also called red mushroom, is brightly colored but non-toxic.

Northeast China isn’t just home to forest mushrooms. On the grasslands of Xilingol, Horqin, and Hulunbuir (all geographically part of the Northeast), various grassland mushrooms grow. Among Inner Mongolia’s grassland mushrooms, the most delicious is the "Inner Mongolia koumo" (now also called Mongolian Baili mushroom), named for being "Mongolian mushrooms transported from Zhangjiakou." Inner Mongolia koumo is not only flavorful but also crisp and tender, making it perfect for stir-fries. Writer Wang Zengqi once described, "I once picked a white mushroom myself, dried it, and brought it back to Beijing. One white mushroom made a large bowl of soup, and the whole family drank it, exclaiming, 'It’s incredibly fresh!'"

Unfortunately, the "koumo" found in markets today can’t replicate the freshness Wang Zengqi experienced—not due to species degradation or farming methods, but because modern supermarket "koumo" isn’t the genuine Mongolian variety. Instead, it’s a type of button mushroom named for its resemblance to the original. The authentic Mongolian koumo (Mongolian Baili mushroom), a species unique to China, has been listed as a second-class endangered protected species due to environmental destruction and overharvesting.

Mushrooms at a morning market at the foot of the Greater Khingan Mountains.

Even though wild mushrooms in the Northeast have dwindled in recent years and prices have risen, Northeasterners still keep freshly dried mushrooms at home. Though not eaten daily, their presence provides a sense of security for winter.

Thanks to the hard work of Northeasterners, these autumnal mountain gifts—mushrooms—fill homes with their aroma, offering comfort and abundance that money can’t buy through the long, harsh winter.

Northeast China is now in late autumn. Have you had your first mushroom dish of the year?

Header photo | Stracy1993

Cover photo | Tuchong Creativity

This article is original content from [Di Dao Feng Wu].

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