This Underrated Northern Province Is China's Seafood Secret, Making Abalone Affordable for All
You probably never imagined that most of the abalones you've been devouring all these years actually "speak" with a Northeastern Chinese accent. Without the hybrid abalones from Northeast China, there would be no abalone industry in China, let alone our freedom to enjoy abalones.
If you don't believe me, just hear me out: Liaoning is an underestimated province when it comes to seafood.
Along the coast of the Bohai Sea, seafood farms can be seen everywhere.
Spring has warmed, flowers have bloomed, and it's time again for Liaoning people to devour seafood.
March is when sea fish are at their liveliest and freshest. Take a stroll around the fish market, stew some Bighead Croakers, braise a few Sea Mullets, steam cutlassfish in sections, fry some Small Yellow Croakers and Flatfish, and wash it all down with a bottle of beer—Liaoning people's early spring is incredibly satisfying.
Just eating fish isn’t enough fun. Soon, mantis shrimps will be in season—boil a big pot in plain water, dip them in a mix of soy sauce, chili, and vinegar, and it’s supremely comforting. If you wait a bit longer, April brings Dalian's yellow clams, juicy and tender enough to make your taste buds sing. Add some small octopus, slice a couple of large sea snails, and you can lay out a whole table—how extravagant is that?
Others buy seafood by the pound, but Liaoning people eat it by the pot.
If you prefer, we can serve it by the table—it’s no problem at all.
And this is just spring. Early summer brings a fishing ban, so shellfish take center stage: various clams, razor clams, scallops, mussels... September marks the start of the fishing season, with thousands of boats setting out, returning with mackerel, pomfret, cutlassfish, prawns, squid, large flying crabs, plus another round of red crabs and mantis shrimps... Winter brings sea cucumbers, abalones, and the oysters that drive the whole world wild—I could eat three dozen!
When it comes to the sea, you probably don’t think of Liaoning.
But when it comes to seafood, it’s hard to avoid Liaoning.
Only a true seafood powerhouse could be this bold. As the only coastal province in Northeast China, Liaoning’s seafood is not only fierce but also sustains the culinary happiness of more than half of China. Yet, when we talk about Liaoning, we often overlook its turbulent, oceanic side.
In Dandong, Liaoning, the fishing ban in the Yellow and Bohai Seas has ended.
Liaoning, the overlooked seafood and ocean province, deserves to be rediscovered.
The sea of Northeast China lies in Liaoning, and nearly half of Liaoning Province is composed of sea.
In Dalian, Liaoning, rocky shores carved by the tides.
On the map, Liaoning resembles a large shrimp arching its back; from the "shrimp belly" to the "shrimp tail" lies its long coastline.
Stretching from the Yalu River Estuary to the Old Dragon Head at Shanhaiguan, this coastline hugs the Bohai Sea and the northern Yellow Sea, spanning 2,110 kilometers—12% of China’s total. Along this long "shrimp belly to tail," six major coastal cities and countless villages and fishing ports form the "half land, half sea" lifestyle of Liaoning people.
Liaoning’s sea is so vast, and its seafood so abundant, that one pot really can’t hold it all.
The fishing industry here is highly developed. Liaoning has 13 first-class fishing ports, ranking fourth nationally; 37 second-class fishing ports, second only to Zhejiang; and the most third-class fishing ports in China, with over 20,000 people directly engaged in fishing.
Six cities—Dalian, Dandong, Yingkou, Panjin, Jinzhou, and Huludao—
are designated as the "Liaoning Coastal Economic Belt," with a combined population of 18.5 million;
those living by the sea account for nearly half of Liaoning's total population (42.6 million).
This region is rich in aquatic resources. Along the entire Liaoning coast, nearly a hundred species of economically valuable fish, shrimp, crabs, and shellfish, along with abundant algae, form the natural foundation of a major fishing province. Here, the annual fishery output value exceeds 60 billion yuan, and seafood exports account for over half of the province's total agricultural exports.
Liaoning seafood enjoys a broad export market.
Compared to southern seas, Liaoning's standout seafood products are concentrated in shellfish and echinoderms, such as oysters, abalone, clams, scallops, as well as jellyfish and sea urchins. The extensive coastal erosional landforms and winding reefs provide an ideal growth environment for these marine organisms. The high quality of the seafood naturally earns favor in both domestic and international markets.
Dalian, the Paishi in Wafangdian under the sunset,
For example, Dandong in Liaoning is known as the "Shellfish Capital of Northeast Asia" due to its abundant shellfish production, dominating nearly 70% of the domestic shellfish market. The Huangdao clams from Donggang are its specialty, which can be enjoyed fresh or processed into dried clams and canned products, allowing Chinese seafood to sail to distant markets.
Figure 1: Huangdao clams with sand cleaned out.
Figure 2: Workers processing Huangdao clams in Xiagang Village, Dandong, Liaoning.
Figure 3: Processed Huangdao clam meat in Dandong, Liaoning.
Additionally, Liaoning boasts developed port trade, shipbuilding, salt production, and pharmaceutical industries, collectively forming a promising marine economy.
Dalian Shipyard, affiliated with China Shipbuilding Industry Corporation,
is one of the largest modern ship assembly plants in China,
located along the northern coast of the Yellow Sea—a true national treasure.
Here, the wisdom of the sea is embraced. Three of China's key ocean-related universities are in Liaoning: Dalian Ocean University, Dalian Maritime University, and Dalian University of Technology. The province is home to six marine research institutes, including the renowned National Marine Environmental Monitoring Center. Among the six coastal cities, four host maritime research institutions.
Figure 1: Campus of Dalian Ocean University.
In Liaoning, research institutes related to aquatic products and fisheries
are so widespread that almost every coastal city has one.
The marine gene is deeply ingrained in the soul of Liaoning people. They harvest the sea, admire the sea, live by the sea, and, most importantly, know how to "eat the sea." In any coastal city of Liaoning, seafood restaurants and street stalls are bustling with activity; the enticing aroma of fresh seafood delights visitors from afar and comforts the hardworking fishermen who brave the waves.
Living in symbiosis with the sea, the tide-chasing seafood foragers.
Liaoning seafood, with its unique varieties and top-tier quality, has become the most dazzling name card of "Marine Liaoning".
Why is Liaoning seafood so competitive?
Without Liaoning, China's oceanic flavor would be greatly diminished.
Liaoning abalone: big and robust!
For example, abalone is widely known. Dried abalone, due to its time-consuming and labor-intensive processing, is considerably more expensive than fresh abalone. Prestigious seafood dishes such as Guangdong's Poon Choi, Fujian's Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, and tender braised abalone require dried abalone—the larger the abalone, the higher the price. Most of these "large-head abalones" come from Liaoning—the abalones from the Bohai Sea are big and robust!
After rehydration, Bohai abalone is extremely large in size.
Here's a quick science note: abalones from the north and south are of different species. China has a wide variety of abalones, but in the Bohai Sea, only the Haliotis discus hannai is naturally distributed. This type of abalone lives year-round in the convergence zone of cold and warm waters, resulting in not only a larger size but also a richer accumulation of umami substances. It is chewy and bursting with freshness—a rare northern delicacy.
Liaoning abalone is large, chewy, and super flavorful.
Once it makes an appearance, southern abalone simply can't compete...
Liaoning was the first to undertake artificial breeding of Haliotis discus hannai. In 2003, they experienced a "northern abalones raised in the south" initiative: abalone seedlings from Dalian were transported to Hainan to overwinter, addressing the issue of low temperatures. As a result, it was discovered that the abalones grew 25% faster than in Dalian. Thus, hybrid Haliotis discus hannai began to spread to the south, advancing China's abalone industry.
In 2017, thanks to hybrid Haliotis discus hannai, China became the world's largest abalone producer. Today, China's annual abalone production accounts for about 90% of the global total, with an output value exceeding 20 billion yuan, also driving the development of related industries such as aquaculture equipment, seaweed farming, and abalone processing. Liaoning has played an indispensable role in this favorable situation.
In just over a decade, Chinese abalone
has undergone a process of becoming increasingly affordable,
and now, we can all enjoy abalone.
Also dominating the country is Liaoning sea cucumber. Most of China's edible sea cucumbers live in subtropical and tropical waters, with the only temperate sea cucumber being the six-ridged sea cucumber. Similar to Haliotis discus hannai, it has adapted to cold environments, offering excellent texture and quality. After drying, it becomes the renowned "Liaoning sea cucumber", ranked first among the "Eight Treasures of the Sea".
Liaoning sea cucumber, with its plump flesh, is famous worldwide,
providing both livelihoods and delicious cuisine.
Pictured is the Dalian Jinzhou National Sea Cucumber Breeding Farm.
Today, the total area of sea cucumber farming in China is 3.64 million mu, with 62.5% of it located in Liaoning—almost double that of Shandong, the second-largest producer. Don’t underestimate Liaoning sea cucumber: without it, the flavors of renowned dishes such as millet with sea cucumber, braised sea cucumber with scallions, and Buddha Jumps Over the Wall would be significantly diminished.
Liaodong Peninsula sea cucumbers are not large in size, but they accumulate a significant amount of umami substances.
With their rich umami flavor, they are considered the finest among sea cucumbers.
Liaoning seafood stands out nationwide. In two words: "highly competitive."
The soul of Liaoning seafood comes from its unique marine environment.
The secret to their dominance lies in the special conditions of the Bohai and Yellow Seas. Located in the temperate zone with lower seawater temperatures, seafood here has a longer growth cycle, allowing it to accumulate more flavor-enhancing substances such as proteins, fats, and amino acids. This significantly enhances both the taste and nutritional value, making Liaoning seafood more "substantial."
In Dalian, Liaoning, fishermen break ice to transport fishing gear at Jinshitan Fishing Port.
The Bohai Sea also features unique "mixed waters." The Liao River and the Yalu River, from the west and east respectively, pour freshwater into the Bohai and Yellow Seas. These rivers carry abundant nutrients, creating ecotones where saltwater and freshwater meet, allowing seafood to grow plump and robust. The varying salinity levels also increase the collagen content in seafood, making Liaoning seafood more "tender."
Panjin Red Beach, the Liao River Estuary Delta Wetland in Liaoning.
Additionally, the waters around Liaoning are dotted with numerous islands and reefs, with over 600 islands alone. The Bohai Sea has an average depth of 18 meters, and its windy and turbulent conditions promote rapid water exchange and cleaner水质, providing an ideal environment for seafood to thrive. Such conditions make Liaoning seafood more "vigorous" and naturally more competitive.
The red-jointed crab is named for its slightly red abdomen and leg edges.
Those from the Bohai Sea are the best, with rich roe and delicious meat every autumn.
Without Liaoning, China would miss a significant part of its seafood delicacies.
Even without premium ingredients like abalone or sea cucumbers, the most ordinary Liaoning seafood still stands out: Huludao's turbot, introduced in the 1990s, now accounts for about one-third of the national production; Yingkou's jellyfish makes up 80% of the national output; Dalian's seaweed accounts for 85%...
Figure 3: Sorting and releasing artificially cultivated scallop seedlings.
Figure 4: Workers maintaining oyster farms.
Figures 1-2 photographed by Qiu Huining.
Figures 3-4 from Visual China Group.
Liaoning seafood is home to numerous heroes. To overlook them is to overlook this vast and delicious ocean.
The sea of Liaoning has not only nurtured vigorous seafood but also fostered bold and generous Liaoning people.
The sea of Northeast China is as rich and fertile as its black soil.
Northeasterners cook seafood just like how they treat the black soil of their homeland—
wildly, boldly, yet with a hidden tenderness.
People in Liaoning enjoy seafood in both robust and delicate ways. For instance, the frequently seen mackerel is best made into plump, white fish dumplings—minced finely and wrapped into dumplings, each bite bursting with freshness. Alternatively, thick mackerel can be dried and paired with simple cornbread to make "salted fish cakes," a flavorful and filling dish.
One mackerel can be both a "fresh young thing" and a "seasoned veteran"—how wonderful is that?
The richness of life is like a plate of plump mackerel dumplings;
the freshness of both land and sea lies in the salted fish cakes of the Northeast.
Even precious ingredients like abalone are enjoyed boldly in Liaoning. They pick several pounds of fresh abalone, remove the organs, and cook them directly—braised, stir-fried, or even cold-tossed, but never overly fancy. After all, with such fresh seafood, any excessive cooking is just a disgrace.
However, what fishermen love most is a hearty dish like abalone stewed with potatoes. After battling the sea, nothing is more comforting than the taste of home by the dimming lights.
Liaoning sea cucumber, the finest of its kind and the soul of Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, is often enjoyed fresh by the straightforward folks of Liaoning. Whether braised in sections, served raw, or made into soup, it’s a common local delight. Those who grew up by the sea especially love home-style sea cucumber omelets—crispy, tender sea cucumber wrapped in eggs, a chewy and fragrant treat only available in coastal regions.
Sea cucumbers from afar may be expensive;
but in their place of origin, they’re just homely ingredients.
That’s right, no matter how luxurious the seafood, Liaoning people can turn it into a home-cooked dish.
Look at these sea urchins, bright yellow and plump—they’re directly made into sea urchin dumplings or stewed with tofu. Look at these crabs, whether red crabs or blue crabs, they’re steamed or stir-fried and served in large portions, leaving you covered in creamy roe. And look at these mantis shrimps, waving their tails—aren’t they fierce? While others sell them by the pound, Liaoning people sell them by the basin or even by the table!
Dandong, Liaoning. Freshly cooked mantis shrimps.
People from coastal Liaoning have discerning tongues;
they can tell with one taste whether seafood is good or not.
Liaoning also has many lesser-known seafood varieties. Lüshun blood clams, also known as giant clams, are larger than their southern counterparts and are a summer delicacy. Dandong noodle fish, transparent, soft, and boneless, are unique to the Yalu River. Lüshun fragrant screw snails, found in intertidal zones, are gathered during tide chasing—a small plate is a rare treasure. Huludao devil head crabs, with hard shells and fresh taste, are only wild—every bite is a win.
Liaoning’s hidden seafood treasures can only be tasted locally.
Pictured: Huludao devil head crab, scientifically known as "Chinese tiger head crab."
Liaoning’s seafood is too underrated. From Dandong’s yellow and white clams to Yingkou’s glass snails and sea cones, to Dalian’s abalone and sea cucumbers, Huludao’s jellyfish and devil head crabs, and Panjin’s prawns, Jinzhou’s shishamo smelt… Every coastal city in Liaoning has its own abundant produce and lifestyle—we’ve just overlooked them for too long.
Dandong, Liaoning - Clam meat being prepared for sun-drying.
Liaoning - An overlooked seafood powerhouse we've unintentionally neglected,
holds promising prospects, awaiting only your renewed attention.
Blessed with both the richness of black soil and the bounty of the sea, it thrives in grand settings and humble realms alike. This is Liaoning's most vibrant tapestry of life as a seafood capital.
During the fishing moratorium, fishermen mend their nets.
China boasts not only vast land resources but also immense marine wealth. In Liaoning, the Nansha Islands, and the Western Pacific, countless oceanic delicacies await discovery. The best way is to wander along the coast, letting your taste buds and soul fully embrace the sea's boundless opportunities.
Photo Editor | TAOGERULE