Tongguan, Xi'an, Qishan: Which Makes the Best Roujiamo in Shaanxi?
A flatbread is sliced open, and minced, juicy meat is stuffed inside, creating the authentic Shaanxi snack—Roujiamo.
In the Guanzhong "eastern gateway," backed by Mount Hua and facing the Yellow River to the east, Tongguan Roujiamo stands out as a nationally renowned representative. Unexpectedly, in late November, a flood of court summons from Tongguan and demands for exorbitant franchise fees dismayed countless Tongguan Roujiamo vendors.
Following the "Xiaoyao Town Pepper Soup Infringement Incident," the "Tongguan Roujiamo Association Rights Protection Litigation" made headlines: the association sued hundreds of vendors across the country. Public outcry ensued, prompting local government intervention and the National Intellectual Property Administration to step in. The association eventually apologized and ceased its legal actions, gradually quelling the "farce."
Tongguan Roujiamo is known for its crispy, flaky flatbread.
Pumpkin juice is added to the dough, giving it a golden, shiny appearance.
How would a nearly 100,000-yuan franchise fee promote the development of Tongguan Roujiamo? More likely, it would force many vendors out of business due to an inability to pay, truly betraying the original spirit of Roujiamo—
It should be simple, honest, and inclusive—a "folk hero" born, rooted, and thriving among the people. As a collectively registered geographical indication trademark, it embodies Shaanxi's culinary culture and regional identity, representing the extraordinary creativity of countless ordinary people.
Its simplicity lies in being delicious, filling, and affordable; its inclusiveness lies in the perfect yet flexible pairing of flatbread and meat, each enhancing the other to maximize flavor. Thus, Roujiamo is an art of combination—what kind of flatbread pairs with what kind of meat, creating a dazzling variety. This is how Shaanxi's Roujiamo "world" is formed, equally impressive!
If the flatbread is similar, focus on the meat—each family has its secret recipe for braised meat, and cured beef also has countless fans; to the north, there's Suide pork head meat, and to the west in Baoji, red oil minced meat stands out. If the meat is similar, focus on the flatbread—in Tongguan, the thousand-layer crispy flatbread crumbles with every bite; in Xi'an, Baiji flatbread takes center stage, while nearby,锅盔牙子 (guokuiyazi), lotus leaf buns, and狗舌头饼 (dog tongue flatbread) also catch the eye...
Shaanxi hides a whole world of Roujiamo.
How many ways are there to eat Roujiamo in Shaanxi?
🥩 How much "meat" do Shaanxi people consume with their flatbread?
The phrase "Roujiamo" may seem linguistically inverted, with "meat" coming first. This is, first and foremost, a linguistic art—some explain it as an elliptical ancient Chinese phrase meaning "meat sandwiched in flatbread"; others say it's because in the Shaanxi dialect, "馍夹肉" (flatbread夹meat) sounds like "没夹肉" (no meat inside), so vendors reversed it to avoid scaring customers away; yet others argue it emphasizes the importance of the meat. I prefer the last explanation.
Shaanxi people love their meat, and a fully stuffed Roujiamo is truly "awesome"!
How important is the meat? Simply put, braised meat came first, and Roujiamo followed. Unless specified otherwise, the "meat" in Roujiamo refers specifically to braised meat. It's not salted cured meat but simmered in a master stock—the "la zhi" (braising liquid)—which is the "soul" of a longstanding Roujiamo shop. This stock may be passed down through three or four generations, never extinguished, growing richer with time and producing beautifully colored meat.
For braised meat, Shaanxi people prefer bone-in rib meat, which combines the layered lean and fat of pork belly with the rich bone aroma and surrounding lean meat of ribs, offering a balance of fat and lean. Besides rib meat, front and hind leg pork are also common choices.
Braised meat simmered in master stock.
The selected meat requires no ginger, scallions, cooking wine, or sugar for color—just a few Chinese herbs and spices for flavor. The traditional method takes a full night: simmering in the first half, stewing in the second half, with someone tending the fire throughout. By daybreak, the pot of braised meat is ready. It looks bright and rosy, tastes tender and aromatic, with fat that isn't greasy and lean meat that isn't dry—rich and flavorful.
The finished braised meat is ready to be scooped out, minced into granules, and stuffed into the flatbread. If you want to find a shop with the most "substantial" meat, look for one where the chopping board has been gouged from constant use—the meat there is sure to be excellent.
A proper Roujiamo should contain only braised meat. Eating such a pure Roujiamo is a century-old tradition of unwavering devotion for Xi'an locals. A well-made braised meat Roujiamo is never greasy; it's all about the skill and quality of the meat. Adding cilantro or chili peppers would be nothing short of "sacrilege"—enough to make any Shaanxi local clench their fists in frustration.
All meat doesn't mean monotony—the combination of meat also matters. If it's your first time buying a roujiamo, an old local from Shaanxi would advise against getting lean meat only, as it's "too dry and tough." The best ratio is "60% lean meat, 30% fatty meat, and 10% skin." The skin is essential, adding a rich gelatinous texture. Finally, pour over some intense cured meat broth. It might feel a bit sticky in the mouth, but "the aroma is simply irresistible!"
A ladle of meat broth is the secret to enhancing the aroma of roujiamo.
Baoji Qishan, the "holy land" of saozi noodles, uses red oil meat sauce not only for "devouring noodles" but also for stuffing buns. Besides using baijimo, steamed buns can also be used for saozi roujiamo. However, the most distinctive feature is the red oil meat sauce, with a dash of Qishan aromatic vinegar, reducing greasiness and adding savory, spicy, and sour notes. Paired with saozi noodles in summer and stir-fried noodle skins in winter, it brings utter satisfaction.
The irresistibly fragrant red oil saozi roujiamo.
For halal cuisine, cured pork can be replaced with cured beef, emphasizing a "melt-in-your-mouth" texture so tender it crumbles at the touch of a tooth, leaving a rich meaty aroma. During festivals, cured beef is a "hard currency" for visiting friends and family. On ordinary days, cured beef roujiamo paired with a bowl of steaming meatball pepper soup is the perfect winter breakfast for Xi'an locals.
Cured beef roujiamo, meatball pepper soup, and Ice Peak soda.
🥞 How much "mo" (flatbread) do Shaanxi people eat with their meat?
The "mo" in roujiamo mainly falls into two categories: Xi'an-style baijimo and Tongguan-style flaky crispy mo. Though "mo" is mentioned last, it doesn’t mean it can be taken lightly. On the contrary, the staple mo has become the "grand finale" and is taken very seriously by "mo province" people.
In Xi'an's old roujiamo shops, most hire specialized masters to make baijimo, also known as "da mo" (pounded bread). The master holds the dough in one hand and a rolling pin in the other, repeatedly pounding and shaping it. A skilled master can make hundreds of mo a day, each nearly identical in size. They are placed on a griddle, first pan-fried then baked. Only with the right heat can a perfect饼 be produced.
Regular baked buns have a flat shape, while baijimo dough is bowl-shaped. When pan-frying, the bowl bottom is placed down, resulting in a beautifully colored mo described as "iron ring, tiger back, chrysanthemum heart"—the crust should resemble a tiger’s back, the edges round like an iron ring, and the pattern akin to a chrysanthemum heart.
Several golden rings indicate well-controlled heat, making the mo crispy.
Freshly baked baijimo has a thin, crispy crust that cracks audibly when bitten, while the inside remains soft yet chewy. A light cut with a knife splits it into two layers, commonly called "two skins." Stuffed with cured meat, the warm mo instantly releases the meat’s rich aroma.
The flavor of freshly baked mo is irreplicable. An old saying goes, "Better to let the meat wait for the mo, not the mo for the meat," emphasizing that the mo must be eaten hot, or the crust won’t stay crisp. Authentic baijimo can only be handmade, while Tongguan’s flaky crispy mo is different—it allows mass production without compromising its flaky texture. Why is that?
The thousand-layer flaky mo is the hallmark of Tongguan roujiamo.
Though called "thousand-layer," it is actually one whole piece. The process involves making an oily skin and oily pastry but skips the natural fermentation of "old yeast dough," allowing it to be stored as frozen dough. This is a key reason Tongguan roujiamo has expanded rapidly nationwide.
The finished mo has a spiral pattern on the surface, and crumbs fall off with every bite. Hence, Tongguan roujiamo is also nicknamed "crumbly roujiamo." Hot mo with cold meat, the spiral-patterned crust bursts open in the mouth, combining tender meat with wheat aroma. Paired with a sip of smooth and spicy sour noodle soup, it’s perfection.
Common baked buns in Shaanxi are also often used for夹肉.
Besides the two above, there are other types of mo for roujiamo! Halal cured beef roujiamo uses freshly baked tuotuomo, the standard for lamb paomo, which is low in oil, crispy, and very chewy.
Lintong Youhuai Town's "dog tongue" roujiamo.
Adding green peppers means it’s not considered authentic Xi'an roujiamo.
In Youhuai Town, Lintong District of Xi'an, the roujiamo here not only can be served with green peppers but also has an especially cute name: "Dog Tongue Roujiamo". Of course, the filling isn't made from actual dog tongues—it's just about the size of a palm and looks somewhat similar. The "dog tongue" bun is also seasoned with cumin and shortcrust, and it's best enjoyed hot. The rich aroma of the meat paired with the spicy kick of the green peppers, along with the soft, flaky texture of the bun, makes it truly memorable. Have it with a bowl of liangpi (cold skin noodles), and it's simply perfect!
Guokui Yazi. It's made like guokui, but looks completely different.
Something similar can be found in Xianyang—Guokui Yazi Roujiamo. Although it's called Guokui Yazi, it doesn't have the large, pot-lid-like robustness of traditional guokui; instead, it's more delicate. Similarly, it's made without fermentation, pressed into a horseshoe shape, and baked over a charcoal fire until the surface is crispy and golden and the inside is fully cooked. It's much thinner than baiji mo, so after baking, it becomes entirely crispy, making it delightfully crunchy when you bite into it.
🍔 Chinese-style hamburger—the more you "sandwich," the happier you get!
Besides the classic combination of "braised meat +" or "baiji mo +," are there other ways to enjoy roujiamo? Of course! You can always trust the creativity of Shaanxi locals when it comes to roujiamo.
Longlong Roujiamo—steamed pork with rice flour and lotus leaf buns are also beloved by Shaanxi people.
In Xi'an and Xianyang, Longlong Roujiamo is quite popular. While other roujiamo are "roasted, roasted, roasted," this one is "steamed, steamed, steamed." Glutinous rice flour and diced pork belly are mixed together and steamed in a basket, making it extra soft. Paired with steamed lotus leaf buns, it offers a chewy exterior and a soft, glutinous interior.
A specialty of Northern Shaanxi—pig head meat roujiamo.
Photo / Photographer 160381394783964, Image / Tuchong Creative
Yulin, located in Northern Shaanxi, is famous for its pig head meat. Mizhi County has plain boiled pig head meat, while Suide has pig head meat roujiamo, also known as "Lion's Wide Open Mouth." The meat is pig head meat, and the bun is youxuan mo—a thin, layered bun as delicate as wings, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with a rich, oily aroma. It's already a famous snack in Suide. The youxuan mo is filled with tender, stewed pig head meat while still hot, making it incredibly satisfying.
Lotus leaf buns with minced meat sauce—an alternative roujiamo from Baoji.
Roujiamo is so diverse that it makes Shaanxi locals exclaim "mei mei er di die" (so delicious!) with every bite. Jia Pingwa, the most famous "ambassador" of Shaanxi cuisine, once praised roujiamo by saying, "One bite reveals a crescent moon; two bites reveal the character 'mountain'." Indeed, eating roujiamo requires the right technique: hold the bun horizontally and take bites from both sides so the meat juices soak into the bun without dripping all over your hands.
Cumin roujiamo—fried baiji bun filled with green pepper stir-fried chicken breast.
Roujiamo was born and rooted in the streets. In the early 20th century, the Fan family, who first made roujiamo, originally only sold braised meat. Since few people could afford meat at the time, they created roujiamo to boost sales. Moreover, porters and laborers, who were often on the go, found it convenient to eat roujiamo with one hand without having to stop and sit down, making it especially popular.
If we trace its origins further, legend has it that the meat in roujiamo was originally sacrificial meat used in ancient rituals. After ceremonies, rulers or clan leaders would distribute the meat to people, hoping for peace and prosperity. Thus, people chopped up the sacred meat and stuffed it into buns, hoping to receive blessings from the gods.
It embodies the resilience and hopes of Shaanxi people in their everyday lives.
Roujiamo was created by the people and for the people, which is why it has such a simple and comforting taste. In the recent "farce," the National Intellectual Property Administration pointed out that "Tongguan Roujiamo" is a collectively registered geographical indication trademark, and its registrant has no right to charge加盟 fees to related businesses.
Therefore, "Tongguan Roujiamo" is not just a simple trademark—it represents the long-standing culinary culture and regional identity of Shaanxi people. From this perspective, how can these few words be worth only 100,000? It is the extraordinary creation of ordinary laborers, the daily life of Shaanxi people, and a priceless art.
Cover photo | Chen Cang Shi Huo