"Tieguanyin," in Fujian, the top tea-producing province, may be a matter of opinion when it comes to being "second to none," but there is no doubt that it has carved out its own niche in the fierce competition among Fujian's famous teas.
"Even the finest tea aroma fears obscurity in a deep alley." In the 1980s and 1990s, the people of Anxi, who firmly believed that "fortune favors the bold," rode the wave of marketization, making the name "Tieguanyin" familiar to countless people.
Today, this tea fragrance has become a favorite among "die-hard fans" across the country, and even many who do not drink tea have heard of the renowned name "Tieguanyin."
Anxi Tieguanyin is a historically famous tea in China.
It has won numerous accolades in domestic and international tea competitions.
Where does the name "Tieguanyin," with its blend of toughness and mystique, come from? And what exactly is the so-called "Guanyin charm"?
The answers lie in its hometown—Anxi County, Quanzhou City, Fujian Province.
Where does Anxi Tieguanyin truly originate?
Anxi, a small city nestled in the southeastern part of Fujian Province. Within its modest area, the terrain divides it into "Inner Anxi" and "Outer Anxi."
Anxi boasts picturesque mountains and rivers and a pleasant climate.
The eastern Outer Anxi is dominated by hilly and mountainous terrain, with relatively gentle slopes, forming bead-like river valleys and basins along rivers like the Xi River and Lan River.
In contrast, the western Inner Anxi features undulating peaks, steep ridges, and varying mountain orientations, creating a peculiar phenomenon where "winds differ across mountains, and rains vary at the same time."
The subtropical maritime monsoon climate brings abundant rainfall, with morning mists and evening hazes. The annual average temperature ranges from 16–21°C, making it a place without harsh winters or scorching summers—an idyllic and livable land that nurtures rich tea tree resources, with nearly 100 collected tea varieties.
Anxi is often called the "Treasure Trove of Fine Tea Varieties." In 1984, among the first batch of 30 nationally approved fine tea varieties, Anxi County accounted for one-fifth—Tieguanyin, Benshan, Huangjingui, Maoxie, Daye Oolong, and Meizhan, the six most representative and renowned tea varieties of Anxi.
Among them, "Tieguanyin" is the most famous.
"The mountains of Anxi are lofty and lush, their perpetual shade and moisture fostering dense tea groves."
Here, "Tieguanyin" refers solely to the tea tree variety—thick, brittle leaves, deep green and glossy—originating in Anxi's Xiping, an exceptional variety ideal for crafting oolong tea.
The oolong tea made from this tea tree variety retains its name, also called "Tieguanyin," which is what most people refer to when mentioning it today.
Tieguanyin is a medium-leaf tea variety, with thick, brittle leaves that are deep green and glossy.
The origin of its name is also shrouded in mystery.
Legend has it that during the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty, an old farmer named Wei Yin (谐音 "Yin" meaning "shade") from Anxi County, a devout Buddhist, offered fragrant tea to Guanyin daily. One day, he dreamed of divine guidance and discovered a thriving tea tree, which he transplanted and cultivated with care.
The following year, the harvested tea proved exceptionally aromatic and was widely recognized as a superior variety, eagerly propagated and shared, earning the name "Wei Yin's Strain." Suspecting the tree was a gift from Guanyin, Wei Yin named it "Tieguanyin" (Iron Goddess of Mercy).
Spring tea, summer tea, heat-season tea, autumn tea
Another version ties the story more closely to the tea-loving Emperor Qianlong. It is said that Wang Shirang from Yaoyang Village, Xiping Township, Anxi, discovered a tea tree at the foot of Nanyan Mountain in the early Qianlong era. The processed tea had a glossy black hue and a rich, sweet flavor.
When summoned to the capital to meet Vice Minister Fang Bao of the Ministry of Rites, Wang gifted him the tea. Fang, impressed, presented it to Emperor Qianlong, who then summoned Wang to inquire. After hearing the tea's origin, the emperor noted its resemblance to Guanyin's face and its weighty quality, naming it "Nanyan Tieguanyin."
Whether endorsed by Qianlong's naming or shrouded in divine mystery, one thing is clear—Tieguanyin is a rare and exceptional tea.
"Pouring milk-like froth into a brimming cup, its lingering fragrance clings to the teeth, refreshing the senses."
Twice inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage
"After night rain, tender greens emerge; on spring mountains, tea banners waft their fragrance." Anxi is one of China's ancient tea regions, where wild tea trees in Lantian and Jiandou stand 7 meters tall with 3.2-meter canopies, dating back over 1,000 years.
In Anxi's high-mountain tea gardens, morning mist and evening haze linger.
Though Anxi's tea history traces to the late Tang Dynasty and its processing is ancient, the unique semi-fermentation technique—oolong tea craftsmanship—only emerged formally in the Qing Dynasty.
Anxi, the "Hometown of Oolong Tea," has its Tieguanyin processing技艺 recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage and inscribed in UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity under "Traditional Tea Processing Techniques and Associated Social Practices."
A tea master crafting Anxi Tieguanyin
Tea remains Anxi's largest livelihood pillar. In 2022, the county's tea industry output hit 32 billion yuan, with e-commerce sales reaching 8.047 billion yuan, claiming nearly a quarter of China's online tea market. Tieguanyin's brand value soared to 143.244 billion yuan, ranking first among regional tea brands for eight consecutive years.
That same year, the Anxi Tieguanyin Tea Culture System was designated a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS) by the FAO.
A tea with "dual world heritage" status proudly showcases Tieguanyin's profound historical and cultural legacy.
Fujian Anxi Tieguanyin Tea Culture System
Recognized by the FAO as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System
A unique step in crafting oolong tea like Anxi Tieguanyin is "yao qing" (shaking the leaves)—a pivotal process that shapes its color, aroma, and taste, distinct from other teas.
Traditional manual shaking involves placing sun-withered and cooled leaves into a hemispherical "hanging sieve." As the sieve shakes, the leaves tumble, collide, and bruise against the sieve and each other, releasing grassy scents before resting on bamboo trays for fermentation.
Yaoqing—The "Soul" of Oolong Tea Production
This alternating cycle of "movement" and "rest" is repeated multiple times, with physical and chemical changes occurring alternately. When the leaves develop a rich floral fragrance, with young leaves curling or bulging, turning yellow-green in color, displaying bright red edges, and green stems—reaching the state of "green stems, green bellies, and red borders"—it signals the completion of the Yaoqing step.
This is the essence of "observing the leaves to guide the process," a highly summarized tea-making experience and an indispensable factor in shaping quality.
Leaves that have undergone optimal fermentation must be promptly pan-fired to halt enzymatic activity. They are then rolled and repeatedly wrapped and baked. Through alternating baking and wrapping, the tea undergoes non-enzymatic oxidation, with color, aroma, and flavor further developing under heat, moisture, and mechanical force until the leaves become glossy, frosted, and richly fragrant. This process gradually shapes Tieguanyin's distinctive appearance—a tightly rolled semi-spherical form.
Wrapping and rolling give Tieguanyin its unique shape.
Finished Tieguanyin tea resembles a dragonfly's head, with tightly curled, dense strands and a sandy green hue, embodying the image of "beautiful as Guanyin, heavy as iron." Its smooth texture, mellow and sweet taste, and natural orchid fragrance derived from its variety and craftsmanship create the unique sensory experience famously known as the "Guanyin charm."
Based on fermentation levels and production techniques, Tieguanyin can be categorized into three types: light fragrance, rich fragrance, and aged fragrance.
Light fragrance Tieguanyin has a delicate aroma, primarily fresh and floral, with a crisp and refreshing taste. Rich fragrance Tieguanyin offers a robust flavor, featuring intense fruity and roasted notes.
Aged fragrance Tieguanyin, affectionately called "Old Iron" by tea lovers, is made from raw Tieguanyin leaves through a unique process including stem removal, sieving, blending, roasting, and aging for over five years. It boasts a mellow, sweet taste dominated by a rich aged aroma.
Tieguanyin—"Fragrant even after seven brews."
The discovery of Tieguanyin and the asexual propagation of tea plants via short cuttings cemented Anxi's pivotal role in Chinese tea history. Its long-flourishing tea trade also established Anxi as a renowned tea hub in ancient times.
When Anxi was first established as a county, it bore a poetic yet realistic name—Qingxi, meaning "clear streams within its borders."
Anxi County is adorned with flowing streams and breathtaking scenery.
The name itself reveals Anxi's picturesque rivers, developed waterways, and convenient water transport. Combined with its southeastern coastal location, it naturally fostered a thriving maritime trade.
During the Song and Yuan dynasties, Anxi tea set sail from Quanzhou Port, embarking on a journey along the "Maritime Silk Road" to captivate palates overseas. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, world-renowned teas like Tieguanyin and Huangjingui have reached global audiences through Xiamen Port, sharing the unique aroma of oolong tea.
During the Yuan dynasty, Quanzhou Port was the world's largest harbor.
To this day, Anxi's tea industry and culture continue the legacy of "Maritime Silk Road" values—cultural exchange, mutual learning, and harmonious coexistence—contributing to diplomacy on the global stage.
In May 2023, Anxi Tieguanyin, alongside other renowned Chinese teas, was showcased at the United Nations headquarters during the "Tea for Harmony" cultural exchange event, sharing the charm of Chinese tea culture with representatives worldwide.
A few days later, Tieguanyin tea, as a carrier of traditional Chinese culture for international display, made another appearance at the headquarters of a different UN organization—this time in Rome, Italy, at the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) headquarters.
"Fragrant Encounter in Rome, Sharing Agricultural Heritage." To promote global exchanges on important agricultural heritage systems, Anxi Tieguanyin partnered with the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato Vineyard Landscape World Heritage Committee in Italy, reaching a cooperation agreement to establish a Sino-Italian Tea and Wine Culture Promotion Center, fostering dialogue and mutual learning between Eastern tea and Western wine cultures.
In today's era of rapid digital industry development, "Anxi Tieguanyin" is also keeping pace with the times.
At 11:06 on February 27, 2022, the "Anxi Tieguanyin-1" satellite, jointly developed by Anxi County, Zhongke Xingqiao, and Changguang Satellite, was launched aboard the Long March 8 Yao-2 carrier rocket from China's Wenchang Satellite Launch Center. The first set of data was successfully received on the afternoon of the 28th.
"Anxi Tieguanyin-1" satellite
is China's first remote-sensing satellite named after tea.
This is China's first remote-sensing satellite named after tea and Fujian Province's first commercial optical remote-sensing satellite with sub-meter ground resolution.
From an altitude of 535 km, it will monitor the growth of every tea plant in the plantations, conduct pest and disease surveillance, and trace the quality of tea trees throughout their lifecycle, contributing to the creation of a digital smart tea plantation.
Coincidentally, two months later, at 11:30 on April 30, the "Anxi Tieguanyin-2" satellite was successfully launched into its designated orbit aboard the Long March 11 carrier rocket. Together with "Anxi Tieguanyin-1," it will safeguard tea tree growth.
Over centuries of tradition, tea has become deeply integrated into the lives of Anxi people, permeating every aspect of labor, daily necessities, social interactions, and hospitality.
The original Anxi tea songs, with their unique Southern Min dialect charm and natural, flowing rhythms, are sung on mountain paths during tea picking, in leisurely tea-drinking moments, and in hospitable exchanges, expressing the local people's love for life and pursuit of beauty.
Brewing tea is likely a must-have skill Anxi children learn from an early age—otherwise, they might hear the remark: "This child is so clumsy, they can’t even make a cup of tea for guests."
Tea has long been woven into the daily lives of Anxi people.
Tea customs in Anxi weddings are particularly distinctive: the bride and groom offer tea to express gratitude to heaven, earth, and ancestors, plant a "unity tea" together, and create a commemorative wedding tea.
As Zhan Dunren, the founding county magistrate of Anxi, wrote in "Records of the Establishment of Anxi County in the Early Five Dynasties," Anxi is "a land fertile and populous, with pure customs—truly a scenic gem of the southeast."
Beyond nurturing "Tieguanyin," this land also holds another "iron"—actual iron ore, which was one of the main reasons for establishing Anxi as a county during the Five Dynasties period.
The Qingyang Xiacao Pu Iron Smelting Site showcases the unique features of the iron smelting handicraft industry in southeast China during the Song and Yuan dynasties. It has been inscribed on the World Heritage List as part of "Quanzhou: Emporium of the World in Song-Yuan China."
The hardworking and life-loving people of this land have also crafted aesthetically pleasing and practical rattan-iron handicrafts using locally sourced bamboo, rattan, wood, grass, and iron, earning Anxi the titles of "World Capital of Rattan-Iron Craft" and "China's Rattan-Iron Industry Base."
This ancient county, revitalized with a new look, has weathered hardships and ultimately transformed. And Anxi's tea industry, having navigated twists and turns in its development, is poised to shine once again.
Edited by Ou Hantian, Qiu Fengfeng
Planning & Review | Ou Hantian
Cover Photo | Visual China Group
Featured Image | Visual China Group
"The Classic of Chinese Tea" (2011 Edition)
This article is original content from [Authentic Tea Journey]