In winter, steaming pots of mutton are served on Chinese dining tables, serving as a nourishing remedy against the cold and a delightful feast for the taste buds. Among the finest mutton varieties, the Yanchi Tan sheep stands out as a "crown jewel." While food lovers nationwide indulge in its exquisite flavor, they can't help but wonder about the origin of this delicacy—where exactly is the "Yanchi" that produces such premium mutton?
Winter days are long and bitter—why not warm up with a plate of steaming mutton?
Opening a Chinese administrative map, it’s easy to locate Yanchi County. The territory of Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region stretches like a cross in the northwest of China, with Yanchi positioned on the right arm of this cross. Drawing a vertical line slightly to the right of the center of Ningxia’s cross shape roughly outlines Yanchi County, which belongs to Wuzhong City.
Situated in the eastern part of Ningxia, Yanchi borders Inner Mongolia to the north, Shaanxi to the east, and Gansu to the south, occupying a crucial corner where these four regions meet. Famous for its Tan sheep, this small city’s landform resembles a spread-out sheepskin—broad and neatly shaped.
Map by Cheng Yuan & Peng Cong / Cartography by Liu Yunshuo
On the coordinate axis of Chinese civilization, Yanchi can be considered a somewhat ancient and mysterious frontier. Historically, the county was home to over 20 salt lakes, making it a vital salt-producing region through the ages. The boundary between agricultural and pastoral economies also fluctuated here. Yanchi’s landscapes vary distinctly from south to north, with different ethnic groups migrating in and out, leading to the exchange, clash, and fusion of diverse cultures. In Yanchi’s history—shaped by a series of variables—challenges and opportunities coexisted and even transformed into each other. Looking back today, Yanchi’s legends extend far beyond just the Yanchi Tan sheep.
Born from Salt: A Cultural Legend Buried for Millennia
What makes Yanchi unique? The answer lies in its name—salt. Located on the northeastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, Yanchi’s landforms are directly influenced by the plateau’s tectonic movements. Twenty-six million years ago, this area was submerged underwater. Over eons of geological changes, the lake shrank, leaving behind more than 20 scattered salt lakes in present-day Yanchi.
Salt crystals speckle the Hui'anbao Salt Lake.
Yanchi County grew around these salt lakes, with different regional centers closely tied to nearby salt deposits. For instance, Hui'anbao Salt Lake lies near Hui'anbao Town, while Gouchi Salt Lake is 7 kilometers southeast of Yanchi’s county seat, and Beidachi Salt Lake sits 17 kilometers north. Although Gouchi and Beidachi were later assigned to Shaanxi’s Dingbian and Inner Mongolia’s Ordos after 1949, the county’s original location clearly reflects its historical connection to these salt lakes.
Since its establishment, Yanchi has undergone several name changes—Yanzhou, Yanchuan Commandery, Huamachi, Yanchi County—yet always retaining a link to "salt." With its precious salt resources, Yanchi secured a place in Chinese civilization, delighting emperors, nobles, and foreign guests for millennia. Salt was not only essential for locals in cooking mutton soup and pickling vegetables but also a key commodity transported along ancient trade routes. Moreover, it was a fiercely contested resource among historical powers.
Due to varying mineral compositions, some salt lakes display dazzling colors.
During the Han Dynasty, Yanchi had an official salt administration. In the Song-Xia period, salt from Yanchi became a major economic resource, sustaining both states amid conflicts and trade. The Ming Dynasty relied on northwest salt taxes to fund military expenses, including purchasing warhorses, paying soldiers, and even constructing sections of the Great Wall. Yanchi’s salt often held the power to sway local politics and influence historical trajectories.
The salt from Hui'anbao Salt Lake has coarse grains and "a strong salty flavor."
Over two millennia, Yanchi repeatedly emerged as a pivotal location, yet it remained somewhat of a "silent witness" in history—often treated as a peripheral frontier by central dynasties. Beyond its military and salt-related roles, little was known about Yanchi’s cultural heritage. Fortunately, recent archaeological discoveries, including ancient tombs, have helped reconstruct fragments of its past.
In the late summer of 1984, heavy rains caused ground collapses in Yanchi, revealing eight Han Dynasty tombs—the Zhangjiachang Han tombs. The following year, six more cliff-carved tombs were found northwest of the county seat: the Yinzi Liang Tang tombs. Among the artifacts was a tomb gate, now a prized exhibit at the Ningxia Museum, featuring low-relief carvings of Central Asian dancers swirling long scarves as if floating amid clouds. Such motifs were unprecedented in Tang Dynasty tombs, making this a national treasure for studying Tang music and dance. Both sites are now designated as Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level, marking key nodes in China’s civilizational map.
Rare artifacts unearthed from ancient tombs in Yanchi.
Photography by Li Peng & Yanchi County Museum / Cartography by Jiuyang
Alongside the Zhangjiachang Han tombs, the nearby Zhangjiachang ancient city also came to light. In 2021, excavations confirmed it as a large Han Dynasty architectural site, unveiling a 2,000-year-old city frozen in time. This is Yanchi’s earliest urban settlement and a testament to its golden age. Despite centuries of weathering, the city’s remnants endure, with collapsed walls buried under shifting sands still visible today.
Most scholars identify Zhangjiachang as the seat of the Qin-Han Xuyan County, a theory supported by historical records. However, this hypothesis has faced challenges in recent decades, with some experts arguing it was the Han-era Qiuzi County. The ancient city remains enigmatic—its true identity and sudden abandonment still unresolved. As excavations continue, these mysteries may reshape our understanding of ancient Yanchi and the northwestern frontiers of the Qin-Han empires.
After the transfer of salt lakes like Gouchi and Beidachi to neighboring provinces, the remaining Hui'anbao Salt Lake's output is no longer as significant. However, the status of Yanchi as a resource hub has never changed—though the resources are no longer limited to salt but also include oil, natural gas, gypsum, coal, as well as wind and solar energy. With the tremendous advancement of modern technology and industry, Yanchi's diverse resources have been utilized in more environmentally friendly and sustainable ways. Solar power stations have been built in the arid northern regions of Yanchi County, where people have explored a win-win model of "photovoltaics + farming." Beyond harnessing energy, solar panels also reduce direct sunlight radiation on the ground, fostering more vegetation growth.
The ancient loess and modern photovoltaic panels,
together form the regional landscape of Yanchi today.
If you visit Yanchi in summer, your first impression will be—beauty. It’s hard to imagine a "Jiangnan beyond the Great Wall" in the vast Gobi, especially in Yanchi's Habahu area, a rare blue-and-green intertwined natural wetland in the northwest, brimming with vitality and natural beauty.
But such beauty was not always innate. Yanchi has long been a transitional zone between farming and pastoral areas. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, the dominance of agrarian civilization became more pronounced, leading to population growth and large-scale reclamation that caused grassland degradation and desert encroachment. The wind and sandstorms in Yanchi once reached unimaginable severity. The people of Yanchi struggled bitterly with nature, undergoing a long process of mutual re-examination, exploration, and reconciliation.
In 1978, the renowned "Three-North" Shelterbelt System Project began, and Yanchi's foresters joined the effort. They used straw checkerboards to stabilize sand in severely desertified areas, and through artificial maintenance, the soil was rehabilitated. Once barren sand dunes were covered with dense patches of grass, including caragana, tamarisk, small-leaved poplar, Mongolian pine, and wild apricot...
Plants that played a vital role in Yanchi's desert control efforts.
Photo by Qin Shugao / Graphics by Jiuyang
Through the efforts of generations of foresters, miracles have unfolded on this land. Vegetation that once vanished in large swathes has regrown, and strong winds no longer bring unsettling news. People casually brush off dust from their clothes without needing to wrap themselves tightly to walk outside. The once-desolate Gobi now boasts scattered wetlands and lakes, with the Habahu Nature Reserve in north-central Yanchi County even becoming a "biological gene bank" in the desert. Sand, water, forests, and grasslands coexist harmoniously, and birds and beasts once again dwell here poetically.
The landscape of Huama Lake in Habahu National Nature Reserve.
Image by Ningxia Habahu National Nature Reserve Administration
A frontier fortress beyond the pass—why is Yanchi so important?
Beyond its abundant resources, Yanchi holds a significant place in history as a border city intertwined with the Great Wall. On the map, Yanchi appears as a city encircled by the Great Wall. A section of the Hedong Great Wall features two parallel walls, roughly marking Yanchi's northern boundary, while the southern "Guyuan Inner Border" largely serves as the dividing line between Yanchi and Huan County in Gansu Province. Along Yanchi's northern and southern borders, four Great Wall sections built during the Sui and Ming dynasties stretch and encircle the area, exuding the solemnity of frontier defense.
A beacon tower on the "Guyuan Inner Border" section of the Ming Great Wall in Yanchi.
This tiny northwestern frontier was once the first strategic stronghold against southern invasions by foreign enemies. Later, Wang Qiong built the Great Wall Pass and opened mutual markets, turning it into a window for friendly trade between Mongols and Han Chinese. From Emperor Chengzu of Ming relocating the Dong Shengwei garrison and strategically abandoning the Hetao region, to prolonged conflicts between the two sides, and finally to the end of nearly two centuries of hostility between Ming and Mongols—culminating in Emperor Kangxi of Qing advocating for shared farming, herding, and trade between Mongols and Han... Small Yanchi bore witness to the centuries-long process of civilizational integration inside and outside the Great Wall.
The ancient Hetao Plain, known as a "land of fertile fields stretching thousands of miles," held a natural allure for nomadic tribes like the Mongols. After the mid-Ming period, the Tatars frequently breached the Great Wall from both east and west, raiding southward. The two Great Walls encircling Yanchi County served as a strategic buffer to protect Guyuan and even the Guanzhong region. The imperial court specially unified the administrative and military command of the three major frontier garrisons—Yansui, Ningxia, and Gansu—under the jurisdiction of the Shaanxi Three-Frontier Commander (Governor). Among them, Yanchi County occupied the most critical position in the three-frontier defense zone.
The two ancient Great Walls, "First Frontier" and "Second Frontier," diverge near Xingwuying,
resembling the strokes of the Chinese character "人" (person).
Initially, Yanchi County (Huamachi) was a small military fortress. Later, as Mongol forces grew stronger in the Hetao region, the border crisis escalated from small-scale raids by hundreds or thousands of Tatar cavalry to large-scale attacks involving tens of thousands of armored riders.
The deep trenches and high ramparts (First Frontier) of the Ming Great Wall, built with "inner walls,"
It was named after the construction method of "outwardly extending trenches."
In the first month of the Zhengde era, the Tatars launched a large-scale invasion, plundering areas such as Guyuan, Longde, and Huining. The 15-year-old Emperor Wuzong of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Houzhao, recognized that "Huamachi is a critical location." He appointed Yang Yiqing, a renowned mid-Ming politician and "illustrious prime minister," as the Three Borders Commander, urging him to focus on fortifying the frontier defenses. Over the years, not only was Huamachi City continuously reinforced and expanded, but also, like Yang Yiqing, a total of 64 Three Borders Commanders were appointed during the Ming Dynasty. Every autumn, they would station troops at Huamachi Camp, using it as a command center for military drills and training. These skilled generals either patrolled the borders on horseback or composed poems atop the city walls, leaving behind many fascinating historical tales and legends.
Twenty-five years after Yang Yiqing built Huamachi City, his colleague Wang Qiong succeeded him as Three Borders Commander. In addition to expanding Huamachi City, Wang Qiong notably constructed a towering and majestic gate tower on the eastern wall outside the city, named "Great Wall Pass." By convention, it should have been called Huamachi Pass, but due to its exceptional strategic importance, it was uniquely named—the only gate tower along the Ming Great Wall bearing the name "Great Wall." Today, gazing at the Great Wall Pass, one can admire its intricately carved beams, painted rafters, and upturned eaves, presenting an extraordinarily magnificent sight. The Ningxia Great Wall Museum housed within the pass also attracts countless history enthusiasts to visit and explore each year.
Yanchi County rebuilt the Great Wall Pass near its original site.
However, long division must unite. In the fifth year of the Longqing era (1571), the Mongols and Han Chinese, suffering from the hardships of border warfare, decided to negotiate peace. They established a harmonious tributary and trade relationship, and as the smoke of war dissipated, Huamachi Market along the Ningxia frontier became the most prosperous and famous trading hub between Mongols and Han. The once-divided borderlands have now become part of a unified China. The silent Great Wall, the standing beacon towers, and the lonely ramparts have transformed into enduring witnesses of historical ebbs and flows.
A small Tan sheep, a legendary delicacy!
In recent years, the reputation of "Yanchi Tan sheep" has spread far and wide across China. To uncover the story behind this culinary legend, one must visit Yanchi. A thousand years ago, Yanchi and sheep formed an inseparable bond. Since modern times, Yanchi County has embraced both agriculture and animal husbandry, with Tan sheep—a breed meticulously cultivated by local farmers—gradually gaining fame in broader markets.
Today, the Tan sheep industry is undeniably a pillar of the local economy. Yanchi has integrated herding, fattening, slaughtering, processing, and logistics into a highly complete modern industrial chain. Fresh Tan lamb is steadily supplied to diners nationwide through advanced logistics. The meat is tender, free of gaminess, and whether grilled, hot-potted, stewed, or stir-fried, it delivers an unparalleled gourmet experience.
Yanchi Tan sheep with wavy wool tufts.
Only by visiting Yanchi can one experience the cubic-level chemical reaction of "original flavor meets original flavor" in the sheep's homeland: hand-torn lamb melts in the mouth like butter, exuding a rich milky aroma; lamb ribs stewed with daylilies and coarse grains release layers of refreshing fragrance... Daylilies and coarse grains are not only perfect companions for Tan lamb but also embody the Yanchi people's deep connection to their land.
To taste the essence of Tan sheep, one must come to Yanchi.
Left photo by Xuewen Wu, right photo by Dawei Feng.
Outsiders visiting local eateries in Yanchi are often amazed by the variety of buckwheat dishes on the menu: buckwheat noodles, stirred dough, pancakes, twisted ears, knife-sliced noodles, sour soup noodles, potato scrapes... Though Yanchi locals casually refer to buckwheat as "coarse grain," it is actually the star of local crops. Hardy buckwheat thrives in Yanchi's environment, requiring minimal care. Even with little rain or fertilizer, it reliably yields a decent harvest.
The "buckwheat universe" of Yanchi people.
Photos by Dawei Feng, Jiale Wang, and Wudong He.
Buckwheat cultivation has spread to nearly every township in Yanchi. During those harsh years of relentless sandstorms, countless people found solace in the golden buckwheat harvested each autumn. Humble buckwheat and the people who rely on it have steadily paved a path to prosperity.
Unthreshed buckwheat grains are triangular cones.
The same goes for daylilies. Don’t underestimate the bright yellow on every household’s table—these delicate yet resilient flowers have become Yanchi’s second-largest industry after Tan sheep, generating an annual output value of 250 million yuan. Today, Yanchi cultivates over 80,000 mu of daylilies, and the golden fields are inseparable from the lives of countless farmers.
Daylily picking typically begins at dawn.
Yanchi Tan sheep have not only created a legend in the food industry but also invigorated downstream processing sectors. The rising number of Tan sheep has gradually made them a cornerstone of the local fur industry. Today, in any fur product store in Yanchi, you can find modern clothing and crafts made from Ermao fur. The snow-white wool tufts are masterpieces of nature, retaining the playful charm of lambs. Even after years, Ermao fur products retain a timeless, vibrant beauty.
The arid climate of Yanchi cannot rival the lush, colorful scenery of Jiangnan. Yet, stepping into a local carpet workshop instantly reveals a vibrant palette. According to county cultural archives, the history of Yanchi's handmade carpets traces back to ancient Persia, spreading to China's Xinjiang through cultural fusion and later to Ningxia along the Silk Road. The primary material is Tan sheep wool, prized for its high pile density, fine fibers, elasticity, and sheen. Yanchi's Tan sheep are sheared twice a year during the rainless spring and autumn, with weavers selecting wool that is long, fine, dense, and dry for spinning. In the clattering workshops, these threads are woven into carpets with a soft exterior glow and inner resilience—timeless yet elegant.
The people of Yanchi embed their spirit of simplicity and perseverance into every carpet.
The enduring devotion to tradition and the restless drive for change coexist harmoniously across generations in Yanchi. Having weathered millennia, Yanchi remains a dazzling, enduring star on the northwestern land.
In the hands of Yanchi's artisans, wool transforms into vivid artistic forms.
*Parts of this article are adapted from *Fengwu China Zhi: Yanchi*, original authors Nie Jing, Duan Zhanjiang, Wang Yan, Shu Ni, and Kong Xue.
*China·Yanchi Tan Sheep Culture Panorama*
*Tan Sheep Breeding and Production*, *Historical and Geographical Studies of Ningxia*