Which City Reigns Supreme in Shaanxi's Carb Game? This Place Takes the Crown for Variety!

Shaanxi can be called China's number one province for carb-based delicacies. From saozi noodles to liangpi, roujiamo, yangrou paomo, youpo noodles... just off the top of one's head, there are too many famous names to count.

When it comes to Shaanxi snacks, many people think of the widely available "Sanqin Combo" found in chain restaurants: liangpi, roujiamo, and paomo. Little do they know, due to Xi'an's overwhelming prominence, many overlook an important branch of Shaanxi cuisine in the eyes of locals—Xifu cuisine.

Baoji's New Year delicacy: steamed bowls.

A local saying goes, "Shaanxi cuisine looks to Guanzhong, and Guanzhong cuisine looks to Xifu," with Xifu being present-day Baoji. China's map resembles a proud rooster, and Baoji lives up to its name—historically known as Xiqiao and Chencang, it lies at the westernmost end of the "Eight Hundred Li Qinchuan Plain" and is the hometown of Emperor Yan and the cradle of Zhou and Qin culture, pioneering agricultural civilization. Thus, Xifu is not just a geographical concept but a region steeped in profound history, culture, and culinary heritage. Today, Baoji is regarded as one of the origins of China's snack culture, and its millennia of wheat cultivation has made its carb-based creations a source of pride.

Qishan saozi noodles, liangpi (hand-pulled skin), Fengxiang douhua paomo, Xifu hand-torn noodles... these understated staples of Shaanxi cuisine all hail from here. They are either crafted with complex techniques or boast vibrant, rich flavors, which is why they are rarely seen outside the region.

The blood of Baoji people flows with chili oil.

Nestled by the Qinling Mountains and the Wei River, Baoji's fertile valley plains have blessed it with abundant natural produce. Chili peppers, in particular, have become the stroke of genius in Baoji's culinary scene.

After chili peppers were introduced to China, centuries of cultivation in the Guanzhong Plain gave rise to a unique variety—Qin peppers, locally called "xiàn làzi." They are bright red, slender, thick-fleshed, and oily, with milder heat but richer aroma compared to other peppers.

A common sight in Baoji: sun-dried Qin peppers.

Dried Qin peppers are ground into coarse flakes or fine powder. Hot oil is infused with spices, then poured over the chili flakes with a sizzle. The oil coats the chili, creating a dramatic, fragrant red paste. A dash of Qishan vinegar, unique to Baoji, elevates the layers of flavor and aroma.

Chili oil exists elsewhere, but it's usually a condiment. In Baoji, it takes center stage. Freshly steamed buns or fragrant flatbreads are stuffed with hot chili oil and a sprinkle of salt, igniting the appetite. It's a must with noodles, and recently, chili oil hotpot has gained popularity—dipping tender lamb into a bowl of chili oil coats every fiber of meat with fiery richness.

Bread stuffed with chili oil: a Baoji dish.

Almost every Baoji native grows up eating chili oil, each family with its secret recipe. It's essential for noodles, bread, and cold dishes—meals feel incomplete without it. Exaggerating slightly, one might say chili oil flows in the veins of Baoji people.

The Guanzhong Plain is rich in wheat, and Baoji has long been a key grain-producing region in China. With its humble yet abundant resources, Baoji has perfected wheat-based dishes, evolving hundreds of noodle variations.

The world knows liangpi, but Baoji locals insist on calling it "miànpi"—a correction of sorts, as this unique-textured snack is fundamentally tied to wheat flour.

Cold-tossed miànpi must be coated in a thick layer of chili oil.

In Baoji, miànpi is omnipresent: stuffed in bread for breakfast, paired with roujiamo for lunch, or served with congee for dinner. It can be a main course or a side snack. Its forms vary—steamed miànpi (liangpi), Baoji's unique hand-pulled miànpi, griddle-cooked miànpi, warm rice-flour miànpi, or vinegar-infused miànpi—each with its distinct taste.

Hand-pulled miànpi, once called "Imperial Capital Powder," traces back to the Tang Dynasty. Unique to Baoji, its special preparation gives it a texture far beyond ordinary miànpi (liangpi). It’s a hallmark of Xifu cuisine and one of Shaanxi’s most iconic snacks.

Bamugou in Qishan, Baoji, is the birthplace of hand-pulled miànpi. The process is intricate: while regular miànpi is made by steaming a batter of flour washed free of gluten, hand-pulled miànpi involves fermenting the batter, boiling it, rolling it out while hot, and steaming it again. Beginners struggle—rolling too slow cools the dough, making it stiff; too fast risks burns.

The complex method gives hand-pulled miànpi unmatched chewiness and elasticity. Less smooth than liangpi, it’s slightly wrinkled and yellowish, closer to wheat’s natural hue, making it better at holding sauces. Tossed with chili oil, it’s cool, tangy, and spicy—a flavor found nowhere else.

Although the production process is largely similar, each batch of hand-pulled noodles has its own distinct flavor—some are thin and chewy, while others are thick and resilient. Beyond the texture of the noodles themselves, the greater difference lies in the chili oil. Each family's chili oil is infused with dozens of secret spices, blended with differently shaped chili powders in unique proportions, creating a one-of-a-kind spicy aroma with every bite.

For the people of Baoji, a daily bowl of hand-pulled noodles isn’t just about filling the stomach but also satisfying cravings. A strand of noodles is dipped into chili oil, mixed with seasoning water, and the bowl is ready. Layers of chili oil cling to the noodles, delivering an immense burst of flavor with each bite.

Hand-pulled noodles stuffed in a bun—a carb bomb.

Besides eating them alone, in Shaanxi, where everything can be stuffed into a bun, there’s another lesser-known way to enjoy them: hand-pulled noodles sandwiched in a bun. The noodles, coated in chili oil, are tucked into a freshly baked bun. The sauce slowly seeps into the crust, creating a crispy exterior and soft interior, filled with the complex aroma of wheat.

The commonly known cold skin noodles are called steamed skin noodles in Baoji. Steamed skin noodles have a softer, smoother texture, sliding down the throat before you can even chew them properly.

Pan-fried skin noodles are similar in texture to hand-pulled noodles but with a unique consistency. Made by directly pan-frying the batter after washing out the gluten, they are thinner and drier than hand-pulled noodles, less chewy but more flavorful.

Vinegar noodles are a unique delicacy from Qishan County, Baoji. Qishan’s famously sharp vinegar adds a lively touch to the noodles. The seasoning is the same as regular noodles, but the addition of vinegar lees makes the texture smoother and slightly tangy, very appetizing.

As a region with a long history of wheat consumption, Baoji people have extremely high standards for noodles. They not only pursue the perfect texture but also master the balance of simple seasonings like chili, vinegar, and salt, ensuring the flavor is never bland.

Qishan saozi noodles are a hallmark of western Shaanxi cuisine, summarized in nine words: thin, chewy, smooth, piping hot, broth-rich, oily, sour, spicy, and fragrant.

The noodles are long and evenly thin, topped with savory minced meat. The broth is made with Qishan vinegar and Qin chili, delivering a fragrant, spicy, and rich yet non-greasy flavor. The "wide broth" means more soup than noodles, highlighting the sour and spicy taste. "Piping hot and oily" means the noodles should be scalding and generously coated in oil to showcase their uniqueness.

A bowl of steaming hot, sour, and spicy Qishan saozi noodles.

"Lan saozi" is the local term for preparing minced meat in Baoji, combining techniques like stir-frying, braising, and stewing. No extra seasoning is needed—the meat itself turns out glossy and spicy without being overpowering, the essence of Qishan saozi noodles. The side dishes usually include diced tofu, radish, potato, and wood ear mushrooms, stir-fried and added to the broth along with diamond-shaped egg strips.

Every bite of Qishan saozi noodles’ side dishes is simple yet delicious.

Though it’s just a bowl of noodle soup, the process is intricate and meticulous—Baoji people take their noodles very seriously.

When it comes to noodles, Baoji people are the ultimate connoisseurs. With one bite, they can discern the quality of the flour, the kneading technique, and even whether the dough was rested properly. Handmade noodles are the soul of Baoji cuisine—each strand carries the natural aroma of wheat. Machine-made noodles have little appeal here, and packaged noodles are only eaten in emergencies.

Due to differences in preparation and seasoning, Baoji also offers various styles like "xiao jin" (cut tendon), hand-torn noodles, and "zha mian" (chopped noodles). Xiao jin noodles are cut into uniform strips, boiled until firm, and served chewy and non-sticky—perfect for dry mixing, with a notably firmer bite.

Zha mian, one of the most delicious noodles in Baoji.

Hand-torn noodles, also called belt noodles, are another Shaanxi staple—long and wide like a belt. The dough requires triple kneading and resting to achieve the right elasticity. Though seemingly simple, tearing the dough evenly demands skill and experience.

The torn noodles can be served dry, with sour soup, or drenched in chili oil. Soaked in broth, they’re devoured in slurps, leaving no time for talk. Only after finishing the bowl can one lean back, catch a breath, and sip the original noodle broth to complete the meal—a perfect, lingering aftertaste.

Tofu pudding with bread, lamb offal stew with flatbread, stirred dough lumps...

How many more surprises does Baoji cuisine have in store?

Nestled near the Qinling Mountains, Baoji blends flavors from both northern and southern China, with each district and county offering its own specialties, collectively forming the rich and diverse "Xifu flavors."

Xifu Douhua Paomo, unique to Fengxiang, is made by boiling thick and firm guokui bread slices in a large pot of soybean milk until soft and saturated. The slices are then placed at the bottom of a bowl, topped with large chunks of tofu pudding, a spoonful of chili oil, savory soybean milk, and finally garnished with cilantro and other seasonings.

The bread slices carry a subtle bean aroma intertwined with the smoky fragrance of chili oil, creating a delightful contrast in the mouth. Though visually dark, the dish is unexpectedly light and flavorful—simple, pure, and rich, leaving a lasting aftertaste.

Among Baoji's culinary delights, Jiaotuan is another standout. This dish is made by mixing equal parts cornmeal and buckwheat flour, then stirring and cooking them in boiling water. Whether served hot or cold, it is irresistibly tangy and delicious.

The hot version, known as "Water Siege," involves scooping a generous portion of sticky, steaming Jiaotuan into a bowl, adding a pre-prepared sour and spicy broth, and topping it with a few greens. Eaten by scooping along the edges, each spoonful combines the smooth Jiaotuan with the flavorful broth, which is so appetizing that the slippery Jiaotuan often slides down the throat before you can chew.

The "Water Siege" coated in sour and spicy broth.

The cold version involves letting the Jiaotuan cool and solidify on a plate before cutting it into small cubes, then tossing it with seasonings. The texture is tender and chewy, similar to liangfen (cold jelly), but coarser, allowing it to absorb flavors more deeply.

A trip to the northwest is incomplete without savoring beef or lamb. Carb-loving Shaanxi locals invented the Paomo style of eating, and Yangza Hui Mo is a prime example of blending regional flavors, combining Guanzhong and Central Plains influences. The bread strips in the lamb offal soup are more resilient to boiling and chewing than ordinary bread, while the lamb offal delivers a robust, savory punch. A final spoonful of lamb fat chili oil is the crowning touch.

Baoji cuisine has quietly accompanied the people of Xifu for thousands of years. Born during the Qin and Han dynasties, it evolved in rural households, carrying profound heritage while remaining approachable, soothing the stomachs and souls of generations of Baoji residents like a gentle, nourishing rain.