Why Is It Always the Undisputed King of Chinese Late-Night Snacks?

Grilled fish can be said to be the eternal king of late-night snacks. Look around the street stalls and restaurant tables across the country, where rectangular iron trays often hold bubbling broth, fish exuding a charred aroma, and stir-fried toppings spread over the fish, creating a rich, layered flavor. As a food form that has only emerged in recent decades, how has this humble grilled fish gradually spread nationwide with such magical appeal?

The "grilled fish" in our minds generally refers to Wanzhou grilled fish, which originated in Chongqing—typically a whole fish served in an iron tray with broth and side dishes. Beyond this, China also boasts the dry, spicy, and chewy Yanbian grilled pollock; Dai-style grilled tilapia with a lemony fragrance; and paper-thin grilled horsehead fish, each with its own unique deliciousness.

An incomplete guide to Chinese grilled fish—feel free to add more in the comments!

Wanzhou District in Chongqing is a place nationally renowned for its grilled fish. However, many may not know that Wanzhou cuisine, as a branch of Sichuan cuisine, boasts a rich variety of flavors: numbing-spicy, peppery-spicy, sour-spicy, red oil, fish-fragrant, sweet-and-sour, "strange flavor," and even sesame paste and mustard, blending the strengths of northern and southern cuisines. This is the flavorful foundation of Wanzhou grilled fish.

Wanzhou grilled fish offers an exceptionally rich range of flavors.

Wanzhou cuisine's distinctiveness stems from its advantageous location at the confluence of the upper and middle reaches of the Yangtze River. Since ancient times, it has been a vital hub for land and water transport, where "countless rivers converge and merchants gather," serving as a distribution center for eastern Sichuan, western Hunan and Hubei, and southern Shaanxi. Its developed water and land transportation fostered a culture of fish and salt. Locally, Wanzhou grilled fish is credited to the people of Wuxi in Wanzhou.

Delicacies originate from the folk. In the past, fishermen hauling boats in the Little Three Gorges would spear fish and grill them on the riverbank when hungry. If they couldn’t finish the fish, they’d take it home, reheat it, and add seasonings—this was the prototype of Wanzhou grilled fish. The people of Wuxi refined and perfected the fish-cooking process on this foundation. The "grill first, then stew" method combines curing, grilling, and stewing techniques.

The picturesque scenery of the Little Three Gorges in Wushan.

Thus, Wanzhou grilled fish originated from Wuxi grilled fish, while Wushan grilled fish represents another lineage. Wushan grilled fish hails from Wushan County in eastern Chongqing, at the heart of the Three Gorges Reservoir area, known as the gateway to northeastern Chongqing. Scholars debate which came first, but here’s a quick tip to tell them apart: Wushan grilled fish usually has side dishes underneath, while Wanzhou grilled fish has them on top.

The flat tray with broth is the most immediate way people distinguish Wanzhou grilled fish from traditional barbecue. Behind this lies its borrowing of seasoning techniques from traditional Sichuan cuisine and Chongqing hotpot. Marinades, broth, grilling oil, and aged oil—these unique blends layer rich spice aromas and a distinctive charred fragrance atop the fish’s natural freshness.

In Wanzhou, the most common grilled fish flavors are pickled pepper, numbing-spicy, fermented black bean, and spicy fish-fragrant. Around 2010, when it took cities like Beijing by storm, new variants like pickled vegetable and tomato emerged, catering to diverse tastes.

Even "Mao Xue Wang" (spicy blood stew) can spark a delicious fusion with grilled fish.

Wanzhou grilled fish isn’t picky about fish varieties—grass carp is most common, but small crucian carp or big bighead carp can also be used. Of course, diners who dislike bones often opt for catfish, snakehead, perch, or mandarin fish for a carefree meaty feast. You can eat the fish first, then the sides, or enjoy both together. But the perfect finale? Drenching white rice or instant noodles in the leftover broth.

In other provinces, Wanzhou grilled fish has adapted brilliantly to local tastes, successfully spawning regional variants. For example, in Hunan, there’s chopped pepper grilled fish; in the Northeast, spicy kimchi grilled fish; and in Guizhou, tofu pudding grilled fish.

Chopped pepper grilled fish—just looking at it feels lively and festive.

Speaking of Guizhou cuisine, think sour soup, tofu pudding, and mountain pepper. In Guiyang, the imported Wanzhou grilled fish was creatively enhanced with tofu pudding and local seasonings, becoming the distinctive tofu pudding grilled fish.

Tofu pudding is somewhat like silken tofu but is actually an intermediate stage between silken tofu and firm tofu, combining the tenderness of the former with the resilience of the latter. To make tofu pudding grilled fish, the fish is first grilled over fire, then plated with the shop’s homemade stir-fried toppings and secret broth. But the soul of the dish? The generous slabs of tofu pudding laid over the fish.

Tofu pudding grilled fish—devour the fish in big bites, scoop up the tofu pudding in chunks.

When tofu pudding grilled fish is served, avoid flipping the fish too much, or the delicate tofu pudding will crumble. Many local connoisseurs eat the fish first, then slowly savor the tofu pudding, and finally the vegetables underneath. The grand finale? Pouring the broth over steamed rice for a perfect finish.

Xuan’en grilled live fish—fermented sourness adds layers of flavor.

Xuan'en County, under the jurisdiction of Enshi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in Hubei Province, is located in the extension of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, with crisscrossing canyons and basins and abundant fish resources. The indigenous people of Xuan'en have perfected the use of sour flavors and these rich fish resources in their grilled fish dishes.

The water highway of Shiziguan in Xuan'en.

Xuan'en grilled live fish stands out from other grilled fish dishes, with its most distinctive feature being a fermentation stage before grilling. Fresh carp or grass carp is cleaned, mixed with salt and rice flour, and sealed in a jar. After a period of time, the fish is thoroughly fermented by lactic acid bacteria, resulting in a firmer texture and a fresh, sour taste. This technique shares similarities with Japan’s ancient funazushi (fermented crucian carp sushi).

The fermented fish is split open from the belly, cleaned, scored, and grilled until slightly charred on the surface. It is then placed in a roasting pan, drizzled with a secret broth and seasonings, and slowly simmered over charcoal. The bubbling broth seems to call out, urging you to dig in. Classic toppings for Xuan'en grilled live fish include pickled radish and zhala (fermented chili paste). The layered sourness from the fermented fish and pickled radish creates a complex flavor profile.

Pickled radish and zhala are two classic toppings for Xuan'en grilled live fish.

Yizhou grilled fish: A "wild-style" grilled fish brushed with fruit sauce.

In Yizhou District, Hechi City, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, grilled fish is best described as fierce. Fresh tilapia is caught from the river, slaughtered, and grilled on the spot. The fish is split along the spine and scored, with precise control over the heat. Surprisingly, the soul of Yizhou grilled fish lies in its fruit sauce!

The slightly sweet fruit sauce is paired with a variety of side dishes, ranging from bold flavors like fish mint, suanye (usually pickled radish), and chive leaves to lighter options like mung bean sprouts, fern shoots, and crispy soybeans. When served, the dish is often placed on a charcoal stove, keeping it warm as you eat.

Unique grilled fish dishes scattered across China.

From the snowy plains of northern China to the island of Taiwan, from the deserts of the western regions to the cloud-kissed lands of Yunnan, the diversity of grilled fish in China mirrors the country’s vastness. Stubbornly refusing to be defined solely by Wanzhou-style grilled fish, many unique variations are hidden in the country’s landscapes, comforting the stomachs of people far from home.

From the perspective of China’s grilled fish map, the southwest can certainly be called the "heartland of grilled fish." Originating in Chongqing’s Wanzhou, grilled fish has expanded eastward, blending with local ingredients and flavors to create a variety of delicious styles. Another concentrated region for grilled fish is the northeast, forming a diagonal counterpart to the southwest.

Jiejinkou Hezhe fishing village, fishing boats on the Heilongjiang River during the ice-thawing season.

Northeast grilled fish: A "three-way split" of white mountains and black waters.

The northeast boasts a well-developed water system, with four major rivers and two lakes, as well as proximity to the sea. Combined with the fishing and hunting traditions of ethnic minorities, the three northeastern provinces have each developed their own distinctive grilled fish flavors.

Fuyuan County in Jiamusi, Heilongjiang, is China’s "eastern pole." The Wusuli River flows through it, and the elementary school music textbook’s "Wusuli Boat Song" sings: "The Wusuli River is long and wide... The Hezhe people cast a thousand nets, filling boats and holds with fish." This depicts the Hezhe people’s fishing scenes, and they have a unique grilled fish dish called "talaha."

"Talaha" means grilled raw fish in the Hezhe language. It is usually made with sturgeon or salmon from the Wusuli River, which have few bones, though catfish is rarely used due to its strong earthy taste.

Hezhe fishing village, piles of fish catches on the banks of the Wusuli River.

To make grilled "talaha," a bonfire is lit first. Once the flames die down and only embers remain, a willow stick is used to prop the fish over the coals. The Hezhe people prefer their "talaha" medium-rare or cooked on one side only. The fish is torn by hand and dipped in fine salt, eaten in a bold and hearty manner.

In contrast, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture in Jilin, neighboring Heilongjiang, offers a different style of grilled fish. The familiar train vendor calls of "peanuts, melon seeds, eight-treasure porridge, beer, drinks, mineral water" change once the train passes Shanhaiguan and enters Yanbian—here, the star product becomes grilled spicy dried pollock.

Grilled spicy dried pollock, unchanged in packaging for 20 years, is a nostalgic treat for Yanbian kids.

Photo/Bilibili video: A boyfriend who can dance

The "mingtai fish" mentioned by the Yanbian Koreans is the Korean term for a type of cod. Unlike the cod used in British "fish and chips," which belongs to the "Atlantic cod," Yanbian's mingtai fish is another species called "Alaska pollock," with lower fat content than British cod. Thus, the Koreans use this cod for grilling, giving it a particularly chewy texture.

The unique feature of Yanbian grilled mingtai fish is that it is dried before grilling. Every autumn and winter, the mountain roadsides of Yanbian are lined with pinewood racks hung with drying mingtai fish, stretching as far as the eye can see. Mingtai fish have few small bones. After being air-dried by the cold northern winds and pounded by Korean hands, the final step is to coat them with a secret Korean spicy sauce and grill them over low heat.

Dried mingtai fish at Yanbian's West Market.

A bite of spicy grilled mingtai fish paired with beer is the most delightful way for every Yanbian "winter night traveler" to pass the long train journey. The whole grilled spicy mingtai fish is as hard as a plank and needs to be torn into strips by hand. The oil-soaked meat strips are incredibly chewy when eaten.

Jinzhou City in Liaoning Province, located in the Bohai Bay region, boasts abundant seafood resources. Jinzhou barbecue is famous for its perfect control of heat and fresh flavors, and grilled fish is no exception. The grilled fish in local barbecue shops is usually grilled horse mackerel or grilled pomfret, both highly popular among locals. These fish are small and skewered individually on iron sticks.

During grilling, the fish is continuously brushed with sauce to let the flavors fully penetrate the meat. When the fish is slightly charred, with crispy skin and tender flesh, the smoky aroma and sea essence intertwine, making you crave one skewer after another—so delicious it's hard to stop.

Grilled horse mackerel in Jinzhou, one fish per skewer.

Which of these uniquely flavored grilled fish has tickled your taste buds?

In many border regions of the country, due to the fusion and collision of diverse cultures, grilled fish often carries unique exotic or ethnic flavors, making it exceptionally distinctive.

Yunnan, being close to the tropics, uses spices in very special ways. There are two types of特色烤鱼. In Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, the local特色烤鱼 has now gained a foothold in first-tier cities, such as the commonly eaten lemongrass-grilled tilapia. Another Thai-Dai-style sour and spicy grilled fish adds many fresh spices for seasoning, like small green limes, leaning more toward Southeast Asian flavors.

The soul of lemongrass-grilled fish is lemongrass. This spice, also known as citronella, may look unremarkable, but its flavor lies between mountain pepper and lemon, with a subtle fruity aroma. Cleaned tilapia is salted for half an hour, then stuffed with ginger, garlic, and Dai-specific herbs like cilantro. The most crucial step is tying the tilapia tightly with lemongrass.

The tilapia, like "a bound Prometheus," is grilled over low heat until about 80% done, drizzled with hot oil, and grilled for another two minutes. The Dai-style grilled fish, emitting a faint lemongrass aroma, is then ready. Dai-style grilled fish often has a sour and spicy taste due to the addition of lime juice and chili peppers. Mint-loving Yunnanese also use refreshing mint to balance the spiciness of the fish.

Thai-Dai-style sour and spicy grilled fish, with small green limes as the finishing touch.

In Tainan City, Taiwan Province, there is a fish called "Taiwan tilapia," which somewhat resembles tilapia and is locally known as "black crucian." The特色吃法 is salt-grilling. This method is more like "salt-baking," where thick coarse salt encases the fish to form a salt crust, locking in moisture and freshness. After grilling, the crust naturally falls off, and the simple saltiness permeates the fish, creating perfectly flavored and cooked grilled fish.

In the Macau Special Administrative Region, another特色烤鱼 is Portuguese-style grilled fish. Fresh cod or sea bass, paired with tomatoes, onions, secret sauce, and olive oil, brings a rich Mediterranean flair. Eating Portuguese grilled fish usually involves squeezing some lemon juice to enhance the fish's freshness, while red wine is a standard accompaniment—similar to how Chinese cuisine uses wine and vinegar to elevate fish dishes.

In the Taklamakan Desert of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, there lives an indigenous group called the Lop people. They grill fish with red willow branches. Wild fish weighing dozens of pounds are gutted but left connected at the spine, flattened with thin red willow branches, and grilled over a fire fueled by poplar wood. Seasoned with cumin and other spices, the eating style is bold and hearty.

The ultimate form of grilled fish: grilled fish fillets

Dalian City in Liaoning Province, located on the Liaodong Peninsula, benefits from a long coastline rich in seafood. Among these, one particularly ugly-looking but delicious seafood is the anglerfish. Commonly known as the "lanternfish," it "walks" on the dark ocean floor with its tail fin, using a glowing organ on its head like a lantern to lure small fish.

To grill anglerfish fillets, the entire fish must be deboned and skinned intact. Only salt and a small amount of sugar are added, along with a little oil for slow grilling over low heat. Once the fish turns golden brown and emits a slight charred aroma, it's ready to eat.

The biggest difference between grilled monkfish slices and other grilled fish slices is that they don't leave your mouth feeling dry after eating. The fluffy fish meat has a dense texture, easily broken apart and eaten by hand, with a salty flavor mixed with a subtle sweetness. Slowly chewing releases waves of umami from the fish, offering a richly layered taste of the ocean.

Across the sea from Dalian, in Yantai, Shandong, there is a type of dried grilled fish particularly favored by locals—grilled halfbeak.

The halfbeak, commonly known as needlefish, has a strikingly different appearance from monkfish, boasting high visual appeal. Its mouth resembles a long, thin needle, and its body is slender, covered in shimmering silver scales. Along the midline of its back runs a wide, emerald-green "ribbon," making it exceptionally beautiful. Locals also call the halfbeak "Needle Maiden."

The halfbeak's body is thin, so splitting it in half allows it to dry quickly, earning it the name "one-night dried" in Japan. Local fishermen in Yantai gut and clean the fish immediately after catching them, then air-dry them naturally. Before eating, the fish is soaked to soften, then skewered and grilled. The grilled halfbeak glistens with oil, its net-like patterns translucent, and its texture firm and chewy. Because the fish is so thin, every bite is deeply satisfying. Today, grilled halfbeak has also gained popularity in Zibo, becoming a must-order item in Zibo barbecue.

Each grilled fish is like a piece of China's vast rivers and lakes, a mosaic of flavors. Every piece carries a unique taste, and behind each lies a distinct regional character. The rivers and lakes on the tip of the tongue ultimately form—a vast and diverse culinary map of China.

People enjoying late-night snacks at a grilled fish stall.

*A Brief Analysis of Chinese Fish Culture* · By Wang Yue

*Wanzhou Grilled Fish from the Perspective of Migration Culture* · By Zhang Qian

*Hezhe Ethnic Cuisine* · By Chen Yanbin

*The Village of the Lop People: The Last "Fishing Tribe" in Xinjiang's Desert* · By Wang Li

*The Manyoshu* · Compiled by [Japanese] Ōtomo no Yakamochi