Why Is This Small Southwest City China's Best Place for Great Drinks?

If one were to choose which city in Sichuan is the most delicious, Yibin, a haven for gourmets, would undoubtedly get a vote.

The seasoned foodies of Yibin, who are constantly surrounded by exquisite flavors, have developed a discerning palate: they demand strong-aroma baijiu brewed from the essence of Wuliangye; their standards for barbecue are even more exacting—ingredients must be fresh, cooking must be perfect, and each bite must be dipped in crushed peanuts and soybean powder; even when eating sliced pork, they insist on masterful knife skills... Their pursuit of food is nothing short of perfection.

The renowned Lizhuang Sliced Pork showcases the pinnacle of knife skills.

Of course, beyond "food," Yibin's "drinks" are equally outstanding, even unrivaled:

In addition to the world-famous Wuliangye, Yibin is also celebrated for its fine tea. When it comes to tea, they spare no effort. Every early spring, as tea buds begin to sprout, they scour the tea mountains in pursuit of the freshest flavors. Their painstakingly crafted "Chuanhong Gongfu" tea is a masterpiece of taste and aroma.

To excel in both tea and wine—two pillars of Chinese culture with profound historical and cultural significance—makes Yibin one of the most remarkable cities in the country. From this perspective, calling Yibin "China's most delicious city" is no exaggeration.

A cup of Chuanhong Gongfu tea, bright orange-red and uniquely sweet.

Born in Yibin, Chuanhong Gongfu tea rivals the famed "Keemun and Dianhong" teas. It once dominated international markets, then retreated into obscurity, only to make a triumphant return to the world of red tea. What tumultuous and legendary journey has Chuanhong Gongfu tea endured? Let’s explore the "First City of the Yangtze"—Yibin—to uncover the story.

"A thousand miles along the Yangtze, where mountains and rivers meet, Yibin stands supreme!" Viewed from above, Yibin, nestled on the southern edge of the Sichuan Basin, is a land of rolling southwestern hills and northeastern ridges. The Jinsha, Min, and Yangtze Rivers carve through the mountains, surging toward the sea. Nourished by these waters, Yibin brims with endless vitality.

The confluence of the Jinsha, Min, and Yangtze Rivers.

Yibin, a city "blessed with mountains, waters, and livability," lies on the southern fringe of the Sichuan Basin, where land and rivers intertwine. Influenced by the Indian Ocean warm current and the dry-hot valley climate of the Jinsha River, the region enjoys high temperatures year-round and quick winter warming. Its soil, mostly mountainous yellow earth and purple sandy loam, combined with varied terrain, creates distinct vertical and microclimates. This exceptional environment fosters a rich ecosystem, teeming with life.

A tranquil Yibin village nestled at the foot of green mountains, where people live and work in peace.

In the primitive forests of Silipo, over 20,000 dove trees—contemporaries of dinosaurs—thrive alongside hill partridges, clouded leopards, and Chinese sturgeons. In Yibin's mountains, bamboo grows wildly, forming the "Bamboo Sea of Southern Sichuan," where bamboo and peaks merge into a unique landscape. Deep in the high mountains of Huangshan, Hanwangshan, and Tiangongshan, ancient tea trees can still be found. Varieties like the old Sichuan tea group and Zaojian Bai grow here, absorbing the mountain mist, laying the foundation for Yibin's tea legacy.

In this pristine natural environment, the resilient people of Yibin have cultivated their own tea legacy through generations of hard work.

From the endless tea mountains, batches of fine Yibin tea are harvested.

Yibin early tea, Chuanhong Gongfu, Luming tribute tea—all exceptional in quality.

Among Yibin's 10 districts and counties, six are designated as key tea-producing regions in Sichuan, with Gaoxian and Junlian counties ranking among China's top 100 tea-producing counties. Across Yibin's vast tea plantations, the collective efforts of tea growers have made "Yibin early tea" renowned for its rich aroma and early harvest, dominating the spring tea market.

It is in this unparalleled natural environment that "Chuanhong Gongfu" tea has lived its legendary life.

The predecessor of Chuanhong Gongfu tea was called "red loose tea."

It was first created by Lei Yuxiang during the Xuantong era of the Qing Dynasty, over a century ago.

The craftsmanship of Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea was recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of Sichuan in 2014.

Illustration/Dongzi, Photography/Wu Xuewen

In the 1950s, as New China was newly established and industries were being revived, black tea became the priority choice for export to the Soviet Union, Poland, and other countries to earn foreign exchange and repay loans. Dozens of tea experts, including Zheng Jingui and Yang Baochen from the Chongqing Agricultural and Engineering College, took on the responsibility and ventured into over 10 counties in Yibin, Wanzhou (Wanxian), Dazhou (Daxian), and other regions to promote black tea production.

They discovered that the climate in southern Sichuan, particularly around Yibin, was ideal—free from severe winters and with an early spring warmth. The black tea produced here was enticingly sweet and of superior quality. From then on, Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea took root in four counties around Yibin: Gaoxian, Gongxian, Yibinxian (now Xuzhou District), and Junlian.

Through expert promotion, Yibin tea farmers became convinced that selling black tea could earn profits and even bring back tractors, steel, and fertilizer from the "Big Brother" Soviet Union. They joined the national tea-making effort, learning to produce rough black tea, which was then transported out of the mountains to tea factories for refinement. Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea set sail from Yibin Port, traveled east along the Yangtze River to Shanghai, and was exported to the Soviet Union, Romania, the UK, and other countries. It even gained international fame as Romania's National Day tea.

Over decades of development, Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea achieved glory. In 1985, it won the World Food Gold Award, and the following year, its export volume reached a historic high of 80,000 dan (4,000 tons), earning $6 million in foreign exchange. However, around 1990, due to international circumstances and economic reforms, Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea faced its Waterloo, with production sharply declining. By the early 2000s, it had sadly faded into obscurity.

The efforts of countless tea experts have revitalized Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea.

Perhaps persistence pays off. In February 2008, amid the vibrant spring, Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea made a stunning reappearance at the "First Yibin Early Tea Festival." In December 2010, the Sichuan Hong Group was established, and production gradually expanded, rekindling the passion of countless tea lovers. Reborn, Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea embarked on a new journey.

In Yibin, mountains stretch as far as the eye can see. Nestled at the junction of Yunnan, Guizhou, and Sichuan, this small city is bordered by the Hengduan Mountains to the east and the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau to the south. Its terrain is dominated by low to mid-altitude mountains and hills, with narrow, fragmented plains—truly "70% mountains, 10% water, and 20% farmland." What could be done? They had to face the challenge head-on.

Over 2,200 years ago, people began carving a city out of these mountains, embarking on a millennium-long struggle. Like the relentless Yangtze River, Yibin’s people seize opportunities and never give up until they succeed. Through generations of hard work, today’s Yibin has transformed into a major southwestern hub and one of Sichuan’s sub-central cities.

Externally, it has formed a half-hour economic circle in southern Sichuan.

A one-hour economic circle with Chengdu and Chongqing, and a two-hour circle with Kunming and Guiyang.

A six-to-eight-hour economic circle with the Yangtze River Delta and Pearl River Delta regions.

In crafting Sichuan Gongfu Black Tea, Yibin’s tea experts are equally relentless. They take pride in producing this tea for the nation. To them, Sichuan Gongfu is not just Yibin’s pride but also a national treasure. Sharing its sweetness with the world has required considerable "effort."

They meticulously select raw materials, choosing fresh leaves from old Sichuan tea varieties or early-tip white tea trees, especially those grown in Yibin. The tender buds—single buds, one bud and one leaf, one bud and two leaves, or multi-leaf shoots—undergo withering, rolling, fermentation, drying, and refinement to develop Sichuan Gongfu’s signature tangerine-sugar or sweet aroma.

This tangerine-sugar fragrance is beloved by many. Watching the golden-tipped leaves unfurl in hot water, the sweet aroma filling the air, and sipping the bright orange-red liquor—its honeyed notes of citrus, floral, or sweet potato—creates an indescribable satisfaction.

With advancing techniques and diverse raw materials, Sichuan Gongfu has branched into subcategories. Single-bud Sichuan Gongfu, the most delicate, is covered in golden tips, with a high fragrance and pronounced sweetness—a dream for tea lovers. Bud-and-leaf Sichuan Gongfu, made from one bud and one leaf, offers a fresh, sweet, and mellow taste. Multi-leaf Sichuan Gongfu, dark and tightly rolled, boasts a rich, sweet aroma, also worth savoring.

Every variety of Sichuan Gongfu is worth savoring.

Today, to adapt to the market, Sichuan Gongfu has adjusted its techniques and varieties. The traditional tangerine-sugar sweetness is less common, replaced by a broader flavor profile. In the "Authentic Chinese Black Tea Flavor Wheel" project, we categorized Sichuan Gongfu’s flavors: common notes include ripe sweetness and fresh sweetness, with hints of honey, fruit, or sweet potato. The taste leans sweet and mellow, with slight astringency, bitterness, or acidity, and sometimes a refreshing, smooth texture.

As the "Liquor Capital of China," Yibin naturally pairs its drinks with good food—whether it’s alcohol or tea.

To compete with Sichuan red tea in sweetness, Yibin's summer heat-relief weapon—Grape Well Lianggao (cold rice cake)—must step up. Drizzled with brown sugar syrup, the sweet and sticky cake is further moistened with Grape Well water, sending waves of coolness through every inch of your body with each bite. Those with a sweet tooth can also indulge in a bowl of hand-scrubbed ice jelly or "cold shrimp," where the pure sweetness of brown sugar and icy freshness melt on the tongue and linger in the heart.

For Yibin locals, summer is incomplete without Lianggao.

After the dessert, don’t rush—the main course is coming.

Yibin’s breakfast starts with a bowl of "fiery" noodles. Strolling the streets in the morning, just pop into any Ranmian shop. If you want something simple, order a bowl of "plain Ran" (sans meat). The owner will swiftly toss in preserved vegetables, crushed peanuts, sesame powder, scallions... and soon, a fully loaded bowl lands before you. For more indulgence, opt for the "meat Ran" with pork mince or the "raw chili beef noodles" with beef and fresh peppers.

Grab your noodles, sit down quickly, and mix them while hot. All the aromas blend together—take a big slurp, and your mouth fills with savory richness. Chew the springy noodles, and the flavors of peanuts, preserved veggies, and scallions burst on your tongue, leaving you utterly satisfied.

Yibin Ranmian is the most famous "Yibin noodle."

Mention Yibin, and "Ranmian" rolls off the tongue.

At lunchtime, wandering the streets of Lizhuang Ancient Town, you’ll see almost every restaurant’s entrance set up with a chopping block, a large boiled pork slab, a sharp cleaver, and a white towel—as if awaiting a grand ritual.

When you enter and order "Lizhuang Bai Rou" (sliced pork), the ceremony begins. The chef skillfully wields the cleaver, slicing paper-thin, translucent pork slices onto the plate. Paired with a garlicky, spicy dipping sauce, each bite is juicy and refreshing. Even those who dislike fatty meat will fall for its fragrant, garlic-infused richness.

A proper slice of Bai Rou should be thin enough to read a newspaper through it.

After lunch, head to the riverside and join the "Baba tea" crowd for afternoon tea. Slouching in bamboo chairs to digest, you might ponder dinner. Yibin’s "Baba skewers" are a must—fresh off the grill: pig nose tendon, palate, intestines, half-fatty beef, fully fatty beef, lips, or tripe... topped with scallions, cilantro, fish mint, and dipped in chili, peanuts, and soybean powder. Two skewers at a time—just thinking about it makes your stomach growl.

Never mind, focus on the tea. Sip the mellow, sweet Sichuan red tea, gaze at the rolling Yangtze, and let the tea’s aroma lull you into a daze as the river murmurs.

Sometimes, linger in Lizhuang’s ancient architecture, reminiscing its golden age of scholars; sometimes, wander through the Bamboo Sea, chasing the martial heroes of Ang Lee’s films; or lose yourself in endless tea mountains, savoring Sichuan red’s sweetness to sweeten your dreams.

Everywhere, you’ll find awe-inspiring patriotism.

Editor | Ou Hantian, Shi Mei

Planning & Review | Ou Hantian

Header Photo | Tuchong Creative

Cover Photo | Visual China

"The Classic of Chinese Tea," 2011 Edition

This article is original content from [Di Dao Tea Hunt].