Why is Yanchi Tan Sheep the Top Choice for Mutton in China?

Seasoned foodies are certainly familiar with these four words. In 2014, *A Bite of China 2* described Yanchi Tan Sheep as follows: "The Yellow River carved out the Helan Mountains, shaping the Ningxia Plain. Nearly all Chinese gourmets agree that the lamb here has the finest texture."

"Here" refers to Yanchi County, located in eastern Ningxia at the intersection of four provinces: Shaanxi, Gansu, Ningxia, and Inner Mongolia. Tan Sheep is a breed of sheep, and simply put, Yanchi Tan Sheep are Tan Sheep raised in Yanchi County.

Since then, Yanchi Tan Sheep has grown increasingly renowned. Many restaurants deliberately highlight it on their menus as a symbol of premium quality. It’s no exaggeration to say that Yanchi Tan Sheep is the crown jewel of Chinese lamb—once tasted, few can resist its deliciousness: the meat is tender, with almost none of the usual gaminess, yet bursting with flavor. Whether pan-fried, stir-fried, grilled, stewed, or hot pot, it excels in every preparation.

Every part of the Tan Sheep is delicious: stir-fried lamb, spicy heart and liver, braised trotters, roasted brain.

Is Yanchi Tan Sheep as delectable as the praise suggests? How is such a delicious Tan Sheep raised? Recently, we visited Yanchi County to experience every aspect of Tan Sheep firsthand. We discovered that even this small sheep holds profound intricacies.

The secret to its deliciousness lies in "salt" and "tan" (riverbank).

"To eat Tan Sheep, just dip it in salt"—this is a simple local saying in Ningxia.

Tan Sheep meat is exceptionally tender, with high lean meat ratio and evenly distributed fat, rich yet not greasy, and nearly devoid of gaminess. Thus, it only needs to be boiled in plain water, without additional spices like ginger or wine to mask odors—these strong seasonings would overshadow the meat’s natural freshness and aroma.

Hand-torn lamb, simple yet delicious, showcases the original flavor of Tan Sheep.

Renowned director Chen Xiaoqing once said in *Flavor Lab* that, based on various data analyses—fiber toughness, moisture content, or concentration of flavor compounds—Northwest Tan Sheep is the most delicious.

According to existing statistics and lab data, Tan Sheep meat has very fine fibers, with a diameter of just 14.07 microns, far thinner than ordinary lamb, making it juicy and flavorful. Its amino acid content is also significantly higher than average, and the Maillard reaction formed by these amino acids is a key source of its rich "meaty" flavor. Meanwhile, Tan Sheep meat has very low cholesterol and gamy compounds (mainly 4-methyloctanoic acid and 4-methylnonanoic acid). By any metric, the data confirms Yanchi Tan Sheep’s deliciousness.

A "pedometer" tracking the steps of Tan Sheep.

Locals also proudly say that Yanchi Tan Sheep "grow up eating medicinal herbs and drinking mountain spring water," which almost sums up the reason for its deliciousness.

One secret lies in the word "tan" (riverbank)—referring to the unique "Ningxia riverbank" where Yanchi County is located. This is the convergence zone of inland farming culture and nomadic grassland culture, nestled between the eastern Helan Mountains and the western edge of the Ordos Basin. The terrain is relatively flat, surrounded by mountains, where the rushing Yellow River slows to nourish this once-arid land, forming a unique riverbank.

The vast grasslands of Yanzhou, with wind turbines in the distance.

Another secret lies in "salt." Yanchi’s land is rich in salt and alkali layers, forming a rare and unique saline-alkali soil zone in China. Due to the arid climate—low rainfall and high evaporation—these alkaline substances remain in the soil, creating an alkaline environment. Thus, the combination of "salt" and "tan" fosters the growth of alkali- and drought-resistant plants like needlegrass, sand sagewort, licorice, bitter bean, ephedra, and saposhnikovia.

The medicinal herbs Tan Sheep eat include honeysuckle, skullcap, ephedra, and cattail pollen.

These "medicinal herbs" are part of the sheep’s daily diet. Statistics show that Yanchi has up to 175 types of plants suitable for Tan Sheep. The alkaline substances and minerals in these plants neutralize unpleasant acidic compounds in the meat, while the diverse diet enriches the flavor profile, embedding it deep into the meat’s texture—resulting in Yanchi Tan Sheep’s uniquely delicious and non-gamy taste.

Hay, the sheep’s daily feed.

What might seem like harsh natural conditions instead created the unique environment for Yanchi Tan Sheep. It is on this land, through generations of selective breeding, that the distinct "Tan Sheep" emerged. Taxonomically, Tan Sheep are a branch of Mongolian sheep, but they differ significantly in appearance and genetic traits from ordinary Mongolian sheep.

Tan sheep almost all have black faces and white fur, resembling the animated character "Shaun the Sheep." They possess a distinctive, iconic "big tail" (a key criterion for identifying Tan sheep)—this is their caudal gland, which stores energy like a camel's hump, an evolutionary adaptation to the local environment. This enables Tan sheep to endure the harsh winters and scarce food of the northwest, thriving robustly on this land.

How did Tan sheep make their way to our dining tables?

Over millennia, with shifts in natural geography and the ongoing conflicts between agrarian dynasties and nomadic tribes, the Yanchi region saw migrations and intermingling of diverse groups. The convergence of multiple ethnicities forged the bold, generous character of Yanchi's people. Throughout this process, livestock-based pastoralism became deeply embedded in daily life—food, clothing, housing, and transportation—creating a unique cultural landscape on China's map, enduring through time.

Yanchi is one of China's 266 pastoral counties and the only one in Ningxia. A glance at its map reveals names like "Wangjiquan," "Zhaojichang," and "Fengjigou," reflecting its profound pastoral heritage.

Yanchi Tan sheep are deeply intertwined with local farmers' lives. A delicious Tan sheep begins its life in a herder's pen—large-scale farming often struggles to ensure lambs' health, but herders, with generations of experience, know how to nurture them tenderly. Many herders in Yanchi have their own pens and breeding ewes, and specialized artisans like "lambing attendants" assist during births. March and April, when lambs arrive, are their busiest seasons.

Feeding lambs licorice water to strengthen their physique.

This seasonal rhythm stems from Tan sheep's survival habits: over long winters, they evolved to bear only one litter per year, conceiving in winter, birthing in spring, and growing in summer (modern farming allows "three litters in two years"). This slow growth contributes to their scarcity, slow reproduction, and high price.

After 1-2 months of attentive care, most lambs—except a few "Ermao lambs" (a unique variety explained later)—are sold at markets. Yanchi hosts daily trading fairs across towns, with the Sunday market in Dashuikeng being the liveliest.

At Wanglejing's sheep market, colorful marks indicate post-vaccination status.

The bustling market hums with voices and bleats, focusing on lambs and sheep at various growth stages. Buyers inspect, haggle, and select—some for home consumption, others for breeding, but mostly large-scale ranchers seeking healthy 20-pound lambs for targeted fattening.

Due to Ningxia's grazing bans, Tan sheep are raised in pens, though some premium farms add "ecological tracks" on slopes for exercise, enhancing meat texture. To mimic wild grazing, feed includes herbs like bitter pea and licorice, preserving the sheep's famed flavor.

Interestingly, Yanchi plants caragana (a sand-fixing shrub familiar from Ant Forest) to combat drought and erosion. Annual pruning yields nutrient-rich shoots—a favorite "roughage" for Tan sheep, creating a sustainable cycle. Locally, they consume nearly 400,000 tons yearly.

Caragana, also called peashrub, is part of Tan sheep's diet.

After 3-4 months of leisurely fattening, Tan sheep reach 70-80 pounds as "young sheep"—not adults, as maturity brings excess fat and gaminess. At this stage, the meat is ideal: bright red with creamy fat, dense yet tender fibers, forming a dry film when cut, moist but non-greasy.

These young sheep are Yanchi's culinary pride and the star ingredient in Yinchuan's signature "stir-fried lamb." Diced pink meat, fried with chilies and scallions, pools savory juices and red oil—a perfect rice companion.

The secret to delicious stir-fried lamb? Yanchi Tan sheep.

Post-fattening, processing begins. Yanchi has four halal slaughterhouses doubling as trading hubs. Out-of-town restaurants often select carcasses for cold-chain delivery, featuring them as menu highlights.

Local giants like market leader "Xinhai Foods" and state-owned "Tan Sheep Group" (pioneering whole-industry-chain products) further process the meat: premium cuts like ribeye, tenderloin, and shank are segmented; ribs become chops, leg meat skewers, while bones and offal yield specialty items. Tan Sheep Group alone offers over 40 refined products.

Vacuum-packed lamb skewers ready for nationwide shipping.

After assembly-line cutting, vacuum-sealing, and cold-chain logistics, Tan sheep reach high-end retailers like Hema and Sam's Club, or online stores. Today's advanced logistics let anyone savor Yanchi's delicacies—hotpot slices, stews, air-dried meat, grilled ribs, fried chops, steamed lamb, braises, stir-fries, minced toppings, even whole roasted lamb or hand-torn neck—without leaving home.

Small Tan sheep, big industry

Yanchi Tan sheep is not only delicious but also deeply rooted in history, earning it the title of "historically renowned sheep."

Yanchi, anciently known as "Yanzhou," is named after its abundant lake salt production. As early as the 2nd century, Yanchi boasted lush natural grasslands and wetlands, described as "fertile fields stretching thousands of miles, abundant with crops," where "cattle and horses followed one another, and flocks of sheep crowded the roads." During the Han Dynasty, this region was incorporated into the territory of the Central Plains dynasties, becoming a natural national pastureland. It cultivated high-quality forage like peas, black beans, and millet grass, with a long history of sheep farming.

Sheep can be raised under solar photovoltaic panels, where they help clear overgrown weeds—a modern dryland version of the "rice-fish-duck" symbiotic system in Yanchi.

In the early Tang Dynasty, when the nation was powerful, Ningxia became a settlement for many ethnic groups seeking allegiance. In 645 AD, Emperor Taizong of Tang and the Uyghur tribe achieved a great victory at the foot of the Helan Mountains. Later, the emperor briefly stayed in the Lingyan Plateau (today's Lingwu City and Yanchi County). Historical records suggest he likely tasted Yanchi's local mutton and praised it highly.

In the late Zhenguan era, 647 AD, a famous official road, the "Path of the Khan of Heaven," was built between the northern tribes and the Central Plains. A key section of this renowned route was the "Lingzhou-Yanzhou-Yuanzhou-Chang'an" line. After its completion, exchanges between north and south grew increasingly frequent. Furs from the grasslands and carefully selected sheep meat traveled along the Path of the Khan of Heaven straight to the capital, Chang'an. Thus, as early as the Tang Dynasty, Yanzhou mutton was famous in Chang'an. Yanchi's unique frontier charm also deeply inspired the great poet Bai Juyi, who wrote in his poem "City of Yanzhou": "Herding cattle and sheep by day, capturing prey by night, roaming a hundred miles beyond the new city."

The local loess slope caves are perfectly suited for raising sheep in pens.

Yanchi Tan sheep has long been renowned in history. Today, remnants of Tan sheep-related cultural heritage, such as sheep fighting and ritual offerings, still exist in Yanchi. It can be said that Tan sheep is an ancient breed with rich historical and cultural significance.

In fact, compared to its meat, Yanchi Tan sheep was historically known—especially in the last 100 years—as a "fur sheep" prized for its high-quality pelts. Notably, the "Ermao lambs," 40-day-old Tan sheep, produce the unique "Ermao fur," locally called "Ermao skin." This premium fur forms natural "nine curves," is snow-white in color, and when the hide is lightly shaken, the fur strands cascade gracefully. Under sunlight, it gleams with a beautiful luster.

Yanchi Tan sheep is a new breed derived from Mongolian sheep after long nomadic migrations, eventually settling in the grasslands along the Yellow River in Ningxia. To this day, no similar fur sheep has been found in global sheep farming. Naturally ancient and precious, Tan sheep is also an agricultural species that cannot exist in isolation. Preserving and elevating this heritage within modern agricultural and processing systems poses a significant challenge.

Yanchi County has taken multiple approaches. Since the 1960s, it has prioritized Tan sheep breeding and conservation. In 2005, breeding farms like Shuomu (now a subsidiary of the Tan Sheep Group) began collaborating with labs such as Ningxia University to maintain breed purity while screening for superior traits. Shuomu is not just for research; it is deeply intertwined with markets and herders' livelihoods. The farm regularly supplies high-quality breeding rams to Yanchi County (especially to herders in need) to sustain Tan sheep as a superior everyday breed.

In 2015, the Yanchi County Tan Sheep Industry Development Association (Tan Sheep Association) was established. Through research, supervision, guideline pricing, and subsidies, it became a bridge between herders and manufacturers, ensuring basic income, balancing sheep prices, supporting businesses, and dynamically regulating market prices. Meanwhile, the Yanchi government promotes scientific farming, funding modern pens and improving pasture conditions.

After years of meticulous breeding, stable quality, strong reputation, and market recognition, "Yanchi Tan sheep" was officially approved as a protected geographical indication product by the former AQSIQ in 2016, further boosting its brand recognition.

The ongoing Tan Sheep Fair showcases a dazzling array of products.

In recent years, Yanchi Tan sheep has entered an era of exponential growth, coinciding with rapid advances in cold chain logistics. Large enterprises like Ningxin and the Tan Sheep Group have standardized the industry, refined meat cuts, and improved cold-chain packaging, enabling Tan sheep to expand beyond Yanchi and Ningxia.

As consumers increasingly value origin, flavor, and species, seeking refined culinary experiences, Tan sheep has gradually entered national markets and dining tables. Local Yanchi and Ningxia restaurants highlight Tan sheep, building offline recognition, while high-end dining has also embraced its value. Later, Tan sheep was served at state banquets like the G20 summit, further proving its quality.

After years of dedication and investment, Yanchi Tan sheep has reached a herd size of 3.24 million, with nearly 1.94 million slaughtered annually. This marks a positive feedback loop—market recognition grows, related industries thrive, and nearly 70% of the county's population is directly or indirectly involved in the Tan sheep industry, with rising annual incomes.

The massive Tan sheep statue in Yanchi County.

It can be said that these small Tan sheep have built a vast industry, even transforming Yanchi County into a unique and standout presence in modern animal husbandry.

Cover photo by Feng Dawei.

Zhang Lianquan, Director of Shuomu Breeding Farm; Zhang Guangbao, Secretary-General of Yanchi Tan Sheep Industry Development Association; Yanchi Tan Sheep Industry Development Group

"China · Yanchi Tan Sheep Culture Panorama"

"Tan Sheep Breeding and Production"; "Historical Geography of Ningxia"