Jinan: The Leisurely Life of 72 Springs City — Lotus on Four Sides, Willows on Three, with Hills and Lakes Painting the Town

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Jinan springs urban travel old towns willows
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Not stunning, but uniquely comfortable in its own way!

I've been to many cities in Shandong—Qingdao, Weihai, Yantai, Jining, Liaocheng... but if there's one I always yearn to revisit, it's Jinan.

It's not meant to disparage others, but Jinan's springs, the willows by the springs, and the early risers fetching water or exercising there create such a serene and distinctive sense of life.

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"If in your imagination there is an ancient city, with slumbering red mansions, narrow stone-paved roads, thick stone city walls, a clear stream encircling it reflecting mountain shadows, and on the bank, little girls in red robes and green pants squatting...

If your imagination holds such a scene, then that is Jinan."

Perhaps Jinan isn't the most dazzling in Shandong, but if you love urban travel and slow exploration of old towns, Jinan is undoubtedly the most comfortable and hardest to leave.

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The only city in China soaked in springs,

Many describe Jinan as the "Jiangnan of the North," but no city in Jiangnan—or even the world—is quite like Jinan.

"Lotus on four sides, willows on three; a city of mountain hues, half covered by lakes." With over 800 springs, including 72 historically famous ones, its mountains, springs, lakes, rivers, and city blend seamlessly—the entire city is bathed in springs!

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© Tuchong DreamCont

For first-time visitors, simply exploring Jinan's springs is enough to grasp the city's essence and soul.

Staying on Quancheng Road, you'll find Daming Lake to the north, Heihu Spring to the southeast, Quancheng Square and Baotu Spring to the southwest, Wulongtan to the west, and Zhenzhu Spring and Wangfu Pool just behind the alleys—all within walking distance.

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Even a thorough tour can be done in a day, but the gentle gurgling springs, willow branches swaying in the breeze, and the quaint bridges, flowing water, and black-tiled houses will slow your hurried steps.

Simply put, it's so soothing, like stepping into a Jiangnan landscape painting, that a one-day trip keeps extending.

I believe no one can resist loving Jinan's springs!

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In Jinan, embark on a journey named "Springs"

A local netizen once described their hometown: "I remember living in a courtyard house where lifting a brick would reveal bubbling spring water. I've never seen another city like Jinan."

Indeed, here you'll find Baotu Spring from textbooks, the pavilion-adorned Wulongtan, the pearl-like Zhenzhu Spring, the majestic Heihu Spring, and the gushing Baimai Spring;

Plus Jinxian Spring, Shuyu Spring, Xibo Spring, Liuxu Spring, Huanghua Spring, Dukang Spring, Bailong Spring... springs in every household...

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Baotu Spring is the head of Jinan's springs, and visiting it during holidays requires an early start.

The three spring vents emit morning mist, bubbling vigorously. The scenery is even better in winter, with white, soft steam rising from the springs, creating a fairy-tale-like atmosphere.

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After leaving Baotu Spring, crossing Quancheng Square brings you to the banks of the moat.

Willow trees droop along both shores, with small bridges spanning the water. A few boats glide leisurely across the river, and numerous bubbling springs line the path, slowly evoking a sense of relaxation.

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Black Tiger Spring is even more beloved by Jinan locals, who queue to fetch water here regardless of the season.

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Pearl Spring is quieter, with a poem praising it: "Each drop of spring water reflects the red sun."

The emerald-green spring water occasionally sees birds flying by, and standing in the pavilion, you can feed the goldfish.

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Just a wall away from Pearl Spring is West Gengdao Street, and following it leads to Prince's Pool.

After passing by the Confucius Temple, Qushuiting Street, and Baihuazhou... though these places show signs of commercialization, they still offer tranquility.

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Groups of people under the willow trees brew spring water into tea, chatting, playing chess, or singing—pure bliss!

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©Tuchong Peanutmeivin

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Standing at Baihuazhou, you can already glimpse the "Pearl of the Spring City," Daming Lake, across the road.

Entering through the gate and walking along the lakeside, you'll see weeping willows brushing the ground. Passing through winding pavilions and corridors, you might encounter uncles playing music or aunties chatting—a picture of serene life.

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At dusk, the sunset over Daming Lake and the silhouette of Chaoran Tower adorn Jinan's nightscape. Suddenly, warm lights illuminate the angular pavilions—absolutely breathtaking.

We visited Five Dragons Pool early the next morning. Perhaps because it was still early, there were few tourists, mostly elderly locals out for a stroll or exercise.

Wandering casually here, through twisting corridors and pavilions with upturned eaves, you reach the clear spring pool to feed the plump, "civil servant" carp—truly relaxing.

Only by visiting do you understand: Baotu Spring is for tourists nationwide, while the free-admission Five Dragons Pool is Jinan locals' leisure garden.

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As Lao She once said of Jinan, "With springs, pools, rivers, and lakes, it is the only water city in the north."

He spent his life moving between many cities, but had a special fondness for Jinan, capturing its spring, summer, and autumn scenery, as well as its mountains, springs, lakes, and rivers in his essays...

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© Tuchong Upward and Kind Youth

When Yuan Haowen passed through here, he sighed: "Free to admire mountains and waters, composing poems wherever inspiration strikes; daily floating on a boat among lotus flowers, I long to stay as a Jinan local."

Living in this city bathed in mountain springs is truly comfortable!

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You simply must embark on a culinary journey here!

Jinan’s food is underrated—just three to five days here, and you’ll exclaim countless times: "Why is Jinan so delicious, and why did no one tell me before?!"

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© Tuchong jnjunting

This is the birthplace of Lu cuisine, the leader of China’s Eight Great Cuisines. Braised sea cucumber with scallions, nine-turn large intestine, four-joy meatballs, stir-fried pork kidney... For authentic Lu dishes, Jinan is the place to go.

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Meat lovers shouldn’t miss Jinan’s "culinary heavyweight," Braised Pork Belly (Ba Zi Rou); it’s ubiquitous on the streets here and can be enjoyed for all three meals.

In Jinan, you don’t need an alarm clock—after all, the beef-stuffed pancakes oozing with broth, the scallion-infused crispy oil swirls, the fluffy egg buns with molten yolks, the savory five-spice sweet porridge, and the fragrant lotus-leaf-wrapped soup dumplings...

will already have your stomach growling in your dreams, making you eager to wake up early for a hearty feast.

The combo of beef-stuffed pancakes and mutton soup is the go-to breakfast for many Jinan locals, enjoyed since childhood.

A bite of pancake, two sips of mutton soup—the beef stewed to perfection. Who can resist such joy? You’ll eat until you can barely walk.

Or start your day with a bowl of Shanghe old tofu paired with a golden, crispy fried dough stick.

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They also love using spring water to craft all kinds of delicacies—spring-water tofu, smooth as jade, rich and lingering in flavor.

With Daming Lake abundant in lotus, "fried lotus flowers" offer a crispy exterior and tender inside, while "lotus-leaf-wrapped meat" is soft and fragrant.

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Yet, even with just its springs, lakes, rivers, and cityscape,

Jinan is already enough to leave me reminiscing often.

But it perfectly balances "living" and "life,"

allowing you to slow down at will.

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As the saying goes: I think no one doesn't love the Spring City—Jinan.

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