Why Is China's Happiest City in November Located in Fujian?

In November, a severe cold wave swept across the country, marking the official end of the golden autumn. Though the year's end still seems distant, it begins to create an illusion of being just around the corner. People nationwide, at this delicate juncture, consciously retreat into hibernation, restraint, and silence.

However, for seasoned travelers, such an off-season presents a rare opportunity to visit certain places against the peak flow: for instance, the warm, mild, bright, and leisurely coastal cities of the south, where this time is the golden season for short stays. Among them, the most representative destination is Xiamen.

The western part of Xiamen Island frames Gulangyu Island and the distant Zhangzhou Port.

The charm of Xiamen in November lies in its perfectly balanced sunshine, the adorable bougainvillea blooming across streets and alleys, the golden beaches and warm waves, and the dazzling array of seafood at open-air food stalls, accompanied by the clatter of woks and spatulas over roaring flames...

More importantly, for such a long-standing "internet-famous city," this is a rare "tourist lull"—the city's gears shift into a leisurely rhythm, people move more unhurriedly, and their words grow gentler. On the afternoon beaches, the sound of waves drowns out the last traces of noise, leaving behind tranquility, vastness, comfort, and convenience that are truly unforgettable.

Young people checking in at Shapowei.

For those who have never been to Xiamen, the first fact to know is: Xiamen is actually an island. That’s not a metaphor, nor does it mean it "has" an island—it is an island itself. The main urban districts of Xiamen, Siming and Huli, along with most of the city's essentials, are situated on this island, known as "Xiamen Island" or "Egret Island."

For an island with inherent transportation limitations to develop into a metropolis so prominent that it’s often mistaken for a provincial capital is no ordinary feat. In my view, the fundamental reason is that Xiamen Island is nearly a perfect island—its size, topography, and distance from the mainland are all just right, making it uniquely blessed.

Xiamen Island covers 158 square kilometers and is home to over a million permanent residents. This size ensures that even from the island’s center, you can easily reach the coast within half an hour (without traffic), yet it’s not so small as to feel confined, oppressive, or dull.

Most of Xiamen Island is flat, interspersed with lakes formed by reclaimed bays. These open spaces accommodate urban growth, while the island also features low, undulating hills that provide geographic separation, ecological preservation, and the romance of mountain-sea views and forest strolls...

The Linhai Line of Xiamen Island’s Mountain-Sea Trail and Shangli Reservoir.

Under such natural conditions, Xiamen Island’s settlements are compact yet expansive, varied yet orderly: from the meticulously planned urban core in the southwest to coastal neighborhoods evolved from traditional fishing villages; from the "Most Beautiful University in China" nestled between mountains and sea to the slightly detached Gulangyu Island; from sprawling malls energizing their surroundings to parks—large and small, nestled against hills, by the sea, or beside lakes—tightly woven into daily life; from dense industrial parks and office towers to one of the most conveniently located airports in China’s major cities... The island’s completeness in urban functions is among the world’s best for an island city.

Gaoqi Airport and Xiang’an Olympic Sports Center on Xiamen Island.

Zooming out beyond the island itself, you’ll find Xiamen Island is one "spoiled" by the mainland: its western and northern sides are tightly embraced by the mainland, like a pearl cradled in a mother’s hands. This gives the island a sense of security, free from the feeling of isolation at sea.

This closeness to the mainland also makes transportation on Xiamen Island highly convenient. In fact, long before the era of cross-sea bridges, the island was already connected to the mainland by a long seawall—which is why Xiamen Railway Station sits at the island’s center and looks quite historic. Today, the seawall has been removed for ecological reasons, but countless bridges and tunnels now tightly link Xiamen to the mainland, eliminating any negative aspects of its "island identity" in terms of convenience.

Xinglin Bridge and Haidi Road connecting the island to the mainland.

At the same time, an island naturally carries romance. Here, you can watch the sun rise and set over the sea year-round. Though the seas to the east and west of Xiamen Island aren’t "boundless," it doesn’t stop you from seeing the crimson sun leap from the horizon at Wuyuan Bay or watching the sun sink into Haicang from coastal parks in the west, casting a shimmering "sunlight highway" over the tidal flats.

Sunrise and sunset on Xiamen Island.

Of course, an island’s greatest advantage is its proximity to the ocean. The southern part of Xiamen Island boasts long, deep beaches: those near Xiamen University face southwest, while those in Huangcuo face southeast, ensuring beautiful light at both sunrise and sunset. Particularly noteworthy are the southeast-facing Huangcuo beaches—perhaps the only stretch of "endless" sea on the island. Thanks to recent environmental efforts, the water is now remarkably clear, and the vast sands offer a mesmerizing view of distant islets disappearing into rolling waves, evoking a sense of timelessness.

Strictly speaking, Xiamen isn’t an ancient city, but that doesn’t mean it lacks depth. In fact, beyond the usual sightseeing, delving into the island’s cultural fabric through its local life is far more intriguing.

The old archway of "Tiannan Metropolis" and the twin towers in Shapowei.

Looking at the map, it's easy to see that Xiamen lies precisely between Quanzhou and Zhangzhou, the two traditional major cities of southern Fujian. Historically, the Xiamen area was long under the administrative jurisdiction of Quanzhou. Geographically, however, it sits at the mouth of the Jiulong River, the narrow "Yuegang" harbor, meaning it has also maintained close ties with Zhangzhou for centuries.

This deep geographical and cultural connection to the two ancient settlements of southern Fujian, combined with Xiamen's rapid modern development, has made the island like a pearl spat out by the ancient Minnan region into the sea. The accumulated traditions and energy of this millennia-old land have all condensed here.

Across southern Fujian, intricately decorated temples with soaring eaves are a common sight, and Xiamen is no exception. These temples house deities who protect the local communities, and grand deity procession festivals are held regularly—a major feature of Minnan folk culture.

In Haicang, Xiamen, one such deity procession, called the "Wangchuan (King's Boat) Send-off," stands out as the most visually stunning and spectacular among Minnan's many similar traditions.

The Wangchuan Send-off custom is widely practiced in the coastal fishing villages of Haicang, typically held once every four years per village. During a designated month, villagers use moon blocks (a divination tool) to determine the exact date. They then construct an enormous and awe-inspiring Wangchuan, made of fir wood or paper. On the day of the event, the deity is invited onto the boat, which is loaded with daily necessities like firewood, rice, oil, and salt, before being paraded to the shore and set ablaze. The ritual includes steps like raising a flag, securing the boat, installing symbolic eyes, erecting masts, "launching" the boat, hoisting sails, the boat's procession, touring the village, final blessings, and burning the vessel. Its meticulously preserved and elaborate ceremony earned it a spot on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

The grand procession of the Wangchuan Send-off in Haicang.

While many coastal villages in southern Fujian share this custom, Haicang's version stands out for its massive boat, intricate rituals, and lively atmosphere. Moreover, the sight of people pulling the enormous Wangchuan through broad streets lined with skyscrapers—an ancient tradition seamlessly blending into a modern urban backdrop—is a surreal scene unmatched anywhere else.

Near Xiamen Railway Station, there's a fascinating spot called "Chou Di Song Show." This is a unique Minnan-style nightclub where guests sit at tables facing the stage and are called up one by one by the host to perform songs. The audience doubles as performers, with applause coming from both friends and strangers. Older patrons and resident singers often perform classic Minnan songs. While Minnan people are reserved, Minnan music has carved out its own niche in Chinese pop, ranging from carefree to melancholic, tender to bold. Through these songs, you glimpse the hidden emotions of modern Minnan people.

Resident singers at Chou Di Song Show.

Of course, beyond these shared Minnan-Taiwan cultural traits, Xiamen's most unique feature is undoubtedly the UNESCO-listed Gulangyu Island. As the earliest carefully developed area in Xiamen, Gulangyu offers far more than Sunlight Rock and trendy cafés. Its architecture alone includes grand red-brick mansions built by wealthy Minnan merchants and European-style villas left by foreigners. Over a century of refined history and the romantic visions of its past residents linger on this steep little island, forming a "Museum of Global Architecture" for visitors to admire and linger in.

When it comes to Xiamen's food, oyster omelets, shacha noodles, and ginger duck often dominate the conversation. These are delicious, but they barely scratch the surface of the city's culinary wealth. For instance, shacha noodles are just one variant of the ubiquitous "sheng tang" (blanched ingredients) eateries. In every well-established neighborhood across the island, you'll find longstanding sheng tang shops offering everything from poached chicken and duck to cold duck gizzards and intestines, or blanched pork kidney, intestines, liver, fish slices, squid, oysters, and razor clams. The portions are customizable, served with noodles, rice porridge, or rice vermicelli—a humble yet endlessly satisfying delight.

True Xiamen foodies make pilgrimages to Tong'an, the region's oldest settlement (historically part of Quanzhou's Tong'an County, which governed Xiamen Island). Here, deeply rooted flavors thrive. A standout dish is Tong'an Braised Pork, a meticulously prepared fatty pork dish that holds a prestigious place in Fujian cuisine. Personally, though, my favorite is their fried chicken legs. Fresh legs coated in a light batter are fried to perfection—crispy outside, juicy inside, with a strong ginger seasoning that feels wholly artisanal. Paired with sour bamboo shoot soup or mung bean soup, it's unforgettable. While many Xiamen Island eateries claim to serve "Tong'an fried chicken legs," only in Tong'an can you taste the real, life-changing version.

Tong'an fried chicken legs and Tong'an Braised Pork.

Top photo by @BudingWentWhere; bottom photo by @RoundIslandTrip.

Finally, Xiamen's open-air seafood stalls are another highlight, especially in autumn and winter after the fishing ban lifts. Order a pot of duck soup with stone olives, stir-fried seafood, a plate of blanched shrimp—sweet seafood, wok hei aroma, a few shots of liquor, and the sea breeze gently sweeping through the street. A intoxicating Xiamen evening unfolds just like that.

Top left and bottom left photos by @BudingWentWhere.

Top right and bottom right photos by @RoundIslandTrip.