How Tough Is the Road to Tibet?

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Qinghai-Tibet Plateau Hengduan Mountains highway construction Tibet Lhasa
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The total length of highways nationwide reached 4.7735 million kilometers

but only a handful can be called "Heavenly Roads"

with most concentrated on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau

▼Highways on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, photographer@Shanfeng

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Here, the average altitude is 4,000 meters

with frigid climates, thin air, and complex geology

ensuring that the construction of every road would be fraught with difficulties

The turmoil lasting over 100 years had just subsided

and the frontier urgently needed a new defense line

▼From the 1930 "Summary of Tibet's Beginning and End"

"Crisscrossed with rugged rocks, impassable for humans and horses, indescribably perilous"

To ensure sufficient strength for border defense

the construction of a road into Tibet became imperative

Thus, under the call to "advance while building roads"

the "First Road into Tibet" officially commenced

Ultimately, the 2,255-kilometer route was fully connected

The Kang-Tibet Highway stretches from Ya'an in the east to Lhasa in the west

One end is the earthly paradise at a few hundred meters above sea level

the other is the celestial plateau at 4,000 meters

Yet, the elevation difference of several thousand meters was not the greatest obstacle

The Hengduan Mountains running north-south are the true natural barrier

▼To travel from Ya'an to Lhasa, one must first pass through the Hengduan Mountains, map by Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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Located in southwestern China, the Hengduan Mountains

consist of seven north-south trending mountain ranges aligned side by side

with an average distance of only about 100 kilometers between their main ridges

Peaks above 3,500 meters in elevation

▼The Hengduan Mountains, with the Dadu River in the photo, photographer: Cao Tie

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form the first major obstacle along the highway

Their highest elevations and the Tianquan County at their foothills

are far more towering than the renowned Five Great Mountains

▼"Mount Erlang, ten thousand zhang high," the image below shows distant mountain ranges viewed from the Erlang Mountain Pass, photographer: Little Snail

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This is merely the "appetizer" of the Kang-Tibet Highway

The road will reach Luding at 1,330 meters above sea level

then ascend directly to the Zheduo Mountain Pass at 4,298 meters

Only then does one officially enter the world of towering peaks

▼Zheduo Mountain Pass, part of the Daxue Mountain Range in the Hengduan Mountains, photographer: Jiang Xi

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None is more formidable than the Que'er Mountain Pass in the Shaluli Mountains

where winter temperatures can drop to -20 to -30°C

Only through tremendous effort was the mountain split and the pass conquered

▼Que'er Mountain Pass, photographer: Heitao Lao K (please view horizontally)

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The Kang-Tibet Highway has traversed over 600 kilometers through mountains and ridges

Yet in the following hundreds of kilometers

The Yela Pass (4,658 meters) in the Nyainqêntanglha Mountains

And the Anjiula Pass (4,475 meters) in the Baxoi Mountains

Quietly await the arrival of travelers

▼A vehicle trapped in snow on Yela Mountain, photographer @ Cao Tie

▼Lancang River Gorge, photographer @ Hu Shu

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Between the Shaluli Mountains and the Markam Mountains

As the river with the largest volume among the Six Parallel Rivers

The Jinsha River flows southward with mighty force and winding turns

▼Jinsha River, photographed in present-day Shiqu County, Ganzi, Sichuan, photographer @ Dream Traveler

Between the Nyainqêntanglha Mountains and the Baxoi Mountains

Here the gorges are deep and the currents swift

Over 60 years ago, to build a bridge across the river

The construction team battled the raging waters for nearly four days

Before finally delivering the steel cables for the temporary bridge to the opposite bank

▼The turbulent Nujiang River, photographer @ Allen in the Distance

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With elevation differences reaching several thousand meters up and down

The highway often has no choice but to "crawl along the terrain"

Winding and circling on steep mountain slopes

▼The 72 Hairpin Turns of Nujiang, also known as the "99 Bends of Sichuan-Tibet," are located on the way from Bangda to Nujiang. Photographer: Li Heng

High mountains and deep valleys unfold here in succession

The striking elevation differences and rapid altitude changes along the route

▼A convoy crossing Manigango, located in present-day Dege County, Sichuan Province. Photographer: Cao Tie

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The hardships of the Kang-Tibet Highway were far from over

The Kang-Tibet Highway, having reached Qamdo in Tibet, turned southward

Choosing a route that passed through Bomi and Nyingchi to reach Lhasa

▼A convoy traveling through the Nyingchi-Bomi section, with the Parlung Tsangpo River alongside. Image source: Land Rover China

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Although the climate in the south was milder

It also meant the highway had to cross

The 4,728-meter-high Serkhyim La Pass

And the 5,013-meter-high Mila Pass

While traversing multiple seismic zones and geologically unstable sections

▼Serkhyim La Pass and the distant Namcha Barwa Peak. Photographer: Jia Jiqian

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Admittedly, this decision was extremely difficult

But to benefit more agricultural populations

And facilitate proximity to the border for national defense

After approvals from He Long, Liu Bocheng, Peng Dehuai, Deng Xiaoping, Mao Zedong, and others

The framework of the Kang-Tibet Highway was finally determined

And it officially opened to traffic by the end of 1954

▼The Kang-Tibet Highway, which chose the "hard mode," mapped by Zhang Jing/Planet Research Institute

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The name "Kang-Tibet Highway" has since become a thing of the past

The familiar "Sichuan-Tibet Highway" emerged as a result

Its starting point was also changed from Ya'an to Chengdu

The construction of the southern route of the highway also began in full swing

▼Litang Jianziwan Mountain Pass, photographed by Dream Traveler

(This is the bridge that was recently destroyed by the barrier lake flood)

And it merges with the old Kang-Tibet route at Bangda

▼Section near Bangda, photographed by Cao Tie

▼Mount Everest Highway, photographed by Jiang Xi

Another route diverges from the Mount Everest Highway in Tingri County

It will cross six major mountains and several rivers

Spiraling down between the Mount Everest massif and Shishapangma

Until reaching the Zhangmu Port on the China-Nepal border

▼China-Nepal Highway, photographed by Xiaoqiang Xiansen

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The southern Sichuan-Tibet route and the China-Nepal Highway are connected end-to-end

Allowing a direct journey from Chengdu to the China-Nepal border

People call it "National Highway 318"

▼G318 Chengdu-Zhangmu section, mapped by Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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Even the little-known rural roads in the surrounding areas

▼Heading north from Litang, the road to Cuoka Lake, photographer@Dream Traveler

While the northern route once abandoned by the Kang-Tibet Highway

With the opening of the Chamdo-Nagqu and Chengdu-Luhuo routes

Another highway connecting Sichuan and Tibet was completed

▼Section of G317 from Chengdu to Nagqu, mapped by@Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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Linking the heart of Tibet closely with Sichuan

There is also a famous transportation artery

Though not as dramatic as the Sichuan-Tibet Highway

The era when "with the Kunlun Mountains here, the railway will never reach Lhasa"

Once bearing 80% of the inbound logistics to Tibet

▼Qinghai-Tibet Railway and Qinghai-Tibet Highway, photographer@Zou Xiaoqing

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Crossing three major mountain ranges along the way: Kunlun, Tanggula, and Nyenchen Tanglha

With an average altitude exceeding 4,000 meters

▼Mapped by@Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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If the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is like ascending to heaven and descending to earth

Then the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is truly worthy of its name

▼Section of G109 from Golmud to Lhasa, mapped by@Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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Traveling south from Golmud to the Kunlun Pass

The altitude rises nearly 2,000 meters along the way

Making it the most significant elevation change segment of the entire route

And in the nearly 1,000 kilometers that followed

the maximum surface elevation change was only about 800 meters

▼ Chen Yi's description of crossing the Kunlun Mountains and Tanggula Mountains

"Vast land, towering heights, yet no perilous barriers; everywhere, plains stretch flat as a line"

Only endless snow peaks, uninhabited wilderness, and thin air

constantly remind people that this is still the Roof of the World

▼ The flat terrain along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, photographer @Tian Jieyan (please view horizontally)

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The highway will traverse a vast wilderness

Streams originating from snow-capped mountains merge and diverge intermittently

▼ Tuotuo River, photographer @Jiang Xi

Here, the highway will successively cross

the Chumar River, Beilu River, Tuotuo River, and Ga'er Qu

which will eventually converge downstream

to form a world-renowned great river

▼ The Qinghai-Tibet Highway crossing rivers near the Tanggula Mountains, photographer @CrazyWolfkin

The same is true south of the Tanggula Mountains

spanning multiple river systems like the Nujiang and Yarlung Tsangpo

▼ The Qinghai-Tibet Highway will reach Lhasa from the left front, photographer @Xiao Feng

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Although the Qinghai-Tibet Highway has gentle elevation changes along its entire route

it no longer requires crossing numerous high mountains and deep valleys

▼The freezing and expansion of water in the soil and rocks cause the ground to heave, forming frost mounds. Photographer: Wan Rui

Especially in the vast Hoh Xil region

The elevation along the route is consistently above 4,500 meters

The lower layer of soil and rocks remains perennially frozen and extremely hard

As the altitude or latitude decreases

The soil and rocks freeze in winter and completely thaw in summer

▼Distribution of permafrost along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, simplified based on the "Permafrost Distribution Map of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau" from the CAS Cryosphere Research Network. Map by Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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The upper layer of permafrost also undergoes thawing and freezing

In severe cases, it can even become like a mass of mud

Becoming the greatest challenge for road construction

The road surface absorbs and accumulates heat

The effect is more severe with black asphalt pavement

The road surface becomes bumpy and uneven

Often referred to as a "washboard road"

▼Bumpy road surface affected by permafrost. Photographer: Zou Xiaoqing

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Thus, people had to find ways to "cool" the ground

▼Raised road surface. Photographer: Zou Xiaoqing

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▼Thermosyphons, typically 8 meters underground and 4 meters above ground, have high heat transfer efficiency and can lower permafrost temperature. Photographer: Ji Kang

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Reducing heat transfer from the road surface to the ground

▼The Qinghai-Tibet Highway crossing the Tongtian River. Photographer: Qiu Menghan

Permafrost is just one of many challenges

The Qinghai-Tibet Railway traverses multiple seismic zones along its entire route

Landslides and mudflows are also frequent occurrences

Especially in the Nyenchen Tanglha Mountains area

Though the Damxung grasslands are peaceful and serene, dotted with cattle and sheep

▼Damxung grasslands, photographer @YCC

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Less than 100 kilometers away in the Yangbajing area

Most elevations exceed 6,000 meters

The towering Nyenchen Tanglha Peak

Reaches an altitude of 7,162 meters

As if massive rock and mudflows could pour down at any moment

▼Canyon near Yangbajing, photographer @Zou Xiaoqing

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The Qinghai-Tibet Highway, completed in just one year

Underwent two renovations and two upgrades

Before finally meeting the Class II highway standards throughout

▼Qinghai-Tibet Highway, photographer @Zou Xiaoqing (please view horizontally)

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Highways and railways intertwine and run parallel

The Beijing-Tibet Expressway will also follow the same route to Lhasa

Becoming a new engineering marvel on the plateau

Creating a scene of three roads advancing side by side

It will be the most distinctive mark of three eras

The first vanguard unit of New China endured countless hardships

Finally entering Ngari Prefecture, the westernmost part of Tibet

Marking the peaceful liberation of the entire Tibet region

Yet this land is surrounded by mountains and barren

Even today's Gar County (the seat of Ngari Administrative Office)

Lies over 1,000 kilometers in a straight line from Lhasa

Often relying solely on yaks and horses

▼Map by Zhao Yunpeng/Institute of Planetology

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While towns in southern Xinjiang are much closer

Whether to Hotan County or Yecheng County

The straight-line distance is only 500-600 kilometers

The Kunlun Mountains and Karakoram Mountains towering in between

Will be two unavoidable natural barriers

If heavy snow blocks the passes or mudflows occur

▼Snow-capped Kunlun Mountains, photographer@Xiaoqiang Xiansen

The cavalry stationed in Ngari often faced food shortages

Building a vehicular transport lifeline became imperative

Thus, two years after the Sichuan-Tibet and Qinghai-Tibet highways opened

This road connecting Xinjiang and Ngari officially began construction

The engineering team braved wind and snow, cutting through mountains to open the road

thus clearing this lifeline of the frontier

▼Transport convoy on the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway, photographer@Team Leader (please view horizontally)

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The highway continues to extend toward Lhasa

connecting with the China-Nepal Highway in Lhaze County

ending the long-standing isolation between Xinjiang, Ngari, and Lhasa

The entire highway winds along the border

at its closest point, merely about 30 kilometers from the national boundary

like a thousand-mile-long Great Wall of the frontier

▼The Xinjiang-Tibet Highway and the national boundary, mapped by@Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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The construction of the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway was not without challenges

It crosses 10 snow-capped mountain passes (Daban, Mongolian for "mountain pass") in the Kunlun Mountains

with 915 kilometers of the route at altitudes above 4,000 meters

and 130 kilometers exceeding 5,000 meters

▼The Xinjiang-Tibet Highway, photographer@Chen Jianping (please view horizontally)

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The highway starts in Yecheng County, Xinjiang

where the elevation is only 1,480 meters

but within less than 100 kilometers along the route

it climbs to the 3,250-meter Kudai Daban

known as the first "Gate of Hell"

▼"The Kudi Daban is perilous, akin to the gates of hell," photographer @Xiaoqiang Xiansen

It is the most treacherous section of the entire highway.

The Mazha Daban and Heika Daban, both over 4,900 meters high,

▼"The Mazha Daban is sharp, rising steeply to 5,300; the Heika Daban winds, with ninety-nine turns," photographer @Team Leader

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The Qitai Daban and Jieshan Daban, both over 5,000 meters,

▼"The Jieshan Daban curves, where one can reach the sky by stretching a hand," photographer @Liu Yedao

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as well as the Hongtu Daban, towering at 5,378 meters, are all concentrated here.

Each is enough to send chills down one's spine.

▼The Hongtu Daban is the highest national highway mountain pass in China, photographer @Xiaoqiang Xiansen

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The Xinjiang-Tibet Highway continues to traverse between the Gangdise and Himalayan mountain ranges,

connecting valleys of all sizes.

▼Mount Kailash, photographer @Yan Hai

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Crossing 12 mountains and 8 rivers along the way,

it finally arrives at Lhaze County in Shigatse.

▼The highway passes near Lake La'ang, with the image below showing a provincial road connected to the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway, and the distant 7,694-meter-high Mount Namcha Barwa, photographer @Liu Zhaoming

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It also blocks the moist air from the ocean,

making the regions beyond the mountains exceptionally arid.

The lowest annual precipitation averages only about 50 millimeters,

comparable to that of the Badain Jaran Desert.

▼Near Zanda County in Ngari, the cold and dry climate results in sparse vegetation, photographer @Xiaoqiang Xiansen

Drought has formed dry and loose silt

Combined with thawing permafrost and slope collapses

Making the construction of the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway particularly difficult

The Xinjiang-Ali section, completed in 1957

After over 40 years of renovations

Finally reached the Class IV highway standard

▼The once simple and narrow road surface of the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway, photographer @A Du

The Xinjiang-Tibet Highway completed its asphalt pavement upgrade

Becoming a veritable national highway

▼The upgraded Xinjiang-Tibet Highway, photographer @Zhang Yang's Xiao Qiang

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Neighboring provinces of Tibet—Xinjiang, Qinghai, and Sichuan

Have all built national highways connecting to Tibet

The last neighboring province still has a long way to go

Slowly ascending from south to north along the Hengduan Mountains

Passing through Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La along the way

Each bustling with popularity and swarms of tourists

▼The highway passing through a village in Dali, photographer @A Du

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But it also has a "cold and lofty" side

▼The Yunnan-Tibet Highway passing beneath the Meili Snow Mountain, photographer @Shan Feng

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▼The Great Bend of the Jinsha River, photographer @Li Guiyun

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After crossing the Mangkang-Yunling mountain range near Deqen

one enters a canyon with steep slopes, deep valleys, and frequent landslides

▼The Yunnan-Tibet Highway advancing through the Lancang River Gorge, photographer @Gao Cheng (please view horizontally)

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The actual construction period of the Yunnan-Tibet Highway lasted as long as 11 and a half years

Finally, it merges with the southern Sichuan-Tibet line in Mangkang

becoming part of National Highway 214

▼The section south of Mangkang belongs to the Yunnan-Tibet line, mapped by @Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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When the five major national highway arteries were successively completed

along with the Hei'a Highway traversing numerous plateau lakes

▼The Hei'a Highway runs from Nagqu (formerly called Heihe) to Ali Gar, with a southern route leading to Namtso Lake, photographer @Jiang Xi

and multiple provincial highways extending to the border

▼The section from Chawalong to Chayu on the Bingchacha Highway, photographer @Deng Fei

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the highway transportation network in the Tibet region

officially formed a pattern of "two horizontal, three vertical, and six passageways"

▼Mapped by @Zhao Yunpeng/Planet Research Institute

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Since the first roadstone was chiseled for the Kang-Tibet Highway

transportation projects nationwide have advanced triumphantly

especially in the densely populated central and eastern regions

From national highways to expressways, from bullet trains to high-speed rails

almost every route had to traverse mountains and rivers, overcoming countless obstacles

The construction process was exceptionally slow and arduous

▼The convoy passing through the Nujiang Gorge, with the road seemingly embedded in the cliff face. Image credit @Land Rover China

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Yet it is precisely these "roads built in the sky"

That have completely ended Tibet's era of human and animal transportation

Connecting Tibet closely with the rest of the country

In the history of road construction in China and even the world

▼Leading to Pangong Tso, photographer @Xiang Wenjun

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Tibet's road mileage has reached 89,343 kilometers

All are worthy of discovery and exploration

A benchmark brand experience initiative launched by Land Rover

"Discovery Never Stops - Autumn Equinox Journey"

▼Maps by @Zhang Jing & Zhao Yunpeng/Institute of Planetology

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Along National Highway 318 and National Highway 214

Snow-capped mountains, gorges, and rivers are all in view

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Land Rover has carefully selected from China's 24 solar terms

Combining cultural customs and biological species along the way

Compiled into a [2019 Discovery Species Calendar]

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Following the solar term routes in this calendar

Under the protection of Land Rover's all-terrain capabilities

Land Rover 2019 Discovery Species Calendar

【¥b9EubLV4Hif¥】

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P.S. Editorial Team: Wang Kun, Yu Kuan, Zhang Tianyao; Proofreading: Feng Chenyu

P.P.S. Main references for this article: "Tibet Highway Transportation Records" by the Tibet Local Chronicles Compilation Committee, "Tibet Highway Transportation Guide" by the Tibet Department of Transportation, "Remote Sensing Survey of Geological Environment Along Highways and Railways Entering Tibet from Qinghai, Gansu, Sichuan, and Yunnan" by Wang Zhihua et al.

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