As the National Day holiday approaches, many are worrying about travel destinations and ticket bookings. Instead of visiting crowded tourist hotspots, why not turn your gaze to the vast Northeast? From September to October, the Northeast is at its prime for autumn scenery. Whether it’s forests blanketed with fallen leaves, mountains layered in warm hues of red, orange, and yellow, or endless golden meadows and lakes—this region fulfills your most vivid imaginings of autumn.
Southerners often associate the Northeast with winter’s bitter cold or summer’s cool breezes. But if I had to choose just one season to live there, I’d pick autumn without hesitation.
Autumn in the Greater Khingan Mountains is a riot of colors.
If Yu Dafu, a native of Zhejiang, could grow so attached to Beijing’s autumn after just a few years of teaching there, then every Northeasterner living far from home would surely shed tears recalling their homeland’s breathtaking autumn scenes:
After a few sudden rains and a night of westerly winds, stepping outside reveals a world transformed into vivid intensity—the sky a startling blue, building facades as if freshly painted, and streets carpeted in layers of crisp, rustling leaves.
A person swinging on a swing amid autumn leaves in Pingshan, Harbin.
On the way home from school, walking slowly with a crush, no words exchanged, just the sound of leaves crunching underfoot. The setting sun casts a warm glow on your shoulders, cool dew slides down the bicycle handles, and the scent of fallen leaves mingles with the crisp breeze, filling your nose and throat—a feeling both melancholic and exhilarating.
Of course, discussing the Northeast’s autumn isn’t simple, because the region is enormous. Its geography is often described as horseshoe-shaped:
The sprawling Greater Khingan Mountains shield the western edge of the three Northeastern provinces. To the north, the Lesser Khingan Range and the Heilongjiang River (Amur River) form a clear natural boundary. To the east, the equally extensive Changbai Mountains separate the Korean Peninsula from the Pacific. To the south, the Yan Mountains, Bohai Sea, and Yellow Sea frame the region, with Shanhaiguan Pass standing guard on a narrow coastal plain—the gateway to the Central Plains. These mountains and seas encircle a vast, fertile land, a unique advantage of the Northeast.
Figure 1: A waterfall in Changbai Mountain during autumn.
Figure 2: The Heilongjiang River (Amur River) flowing through the plains.
Figure 3: The coastline of Dalian’s Baiyu Mountain.
Now, if we’re to understand such a vast region through its autumn colors, the most unmissable feature is this Northeastern "horseshoe."
In fact, this "horseshoe"—the ring of mountains and rivers surrounding the Northeast—is almost entirely covered in dense forests, now ablaze with color. Together with ancient trails and tranquil, culturally rich towns, they form a "Northeast Autumn Corridor." Following this corridor, you’ll encounter the most iconic, dreamlike autumn landscapes of the region.
Starting our clockwise journey along this corridor, the first stop is Hulunbuir, the easternmost league city of Inner Mongolia.
Autumn on Hulunbuir’s grasslands is a spectacle of brilliance.
Most associate Hulunbuir with vast grasslands, yurts, livestock, horses, and sweet milk tea—and rightly so. It boasts stunning grasslands, delicious lamb, Nantun beef steak rich with yellow fat, and Buryat buns stuffed with mutton. But what does this have to do with the Northeast?
Here’s a lesser-known fact: Though Heilongjiang has an administrative division called the "Greater Khingan Mountains Prefecture," most of the mountain range actually lies within Hulunbuir and Xing’an League in Inner Mongolia. The hunters who’ve lived in these mountains for generations mostly reside in Hulunbuir, preserving a wild, mysterious charm.
Autumn scenery along the Halaha River in Arxan.
Moreover, the Chinese Eastern Railway, which profoundly influenced the Northeast’s modern development, begins in Manzhouli, Hulunbuir. This railway also brought the region its distinctive Northeastern dialect. In Manzhouli and Shiwei, you might even meet blue-eyed, blond-haired ethnic Russians who speak flawless Northeastern Mandarin. Their Russian cuisine, too, carries a hint of Northeastern flavor...
In other words, the vast grasslands and Mongolian culture are only part of Hulunbuir. Mountains and forests, ancient hunting tribes, Northeast Chinese culture, and Russian charm together form the dazzling "B-side" of Hulunbuir. Whether forests or grasslands, mountains or rivers, yurts or Russian wooden cottages, all radiate their most vibrant colors in autumn.
The Oroqen people, who have lived in the Greater Khingan Mountains for generations.
Every autumn, Hulunbuir’s foundation—the grasslands—turns into a mesmerizing golden hue. To store winter fodder for livestock, herders roll the drying grass into round bales, scattered across the endless plains. Under the slanting sunlight, the scene glows so brilliantly it resembles a Van Gogh painting—almost unreal in its beauty.
Autumn haystacks by the Argun River (the Sino-Russian border river).
The western slopes of the Greater Khingan Mountains, adjacent to the grasslands, are gentle. In Arxan and Moerdaoga, the mountains gradually merge into the plains. Above the rolling golden autumn grass, trees begin to appear in sparse yet harmonious clusters. Particularly noteworthy are the birch trees—their elegant white trunks paired with the golden grasslands create a divinely perfect match.
Winding paths traverse low hills and multicolored forests, leading you into an endless painted world. Amid these twists and turns, the most enchanting sight is Hulunbuir’s autumn waters.
Autumn scenery at Dichi Lake in Arxan National Forest Park, Hinggan League, Inner Mongolia.
The Morgele River, formed by bubbling springs, flows like a soft silk ribbon across the grasslands, meandering gracefully. The Argun River, which nurtured the ancestors of the Mongols, is often shrouded in milky mist on autumn mornings. Standing on a gentle slope, you can watch the morning sun pierce the mist and shimmering water, casting golden light on distant birch forests...
Autumn scenery at Genheyuan National Wetland Park, Hulunbuir, Inner Mongolia.
At dusk, bonfires are lit by the Argun River. Taimen fish skewered on birch branches roast to a crispy perfection. Drunk on wine and joy, people sing and dance... Whether a mighty khan or an unknown traveler, the Argun River remembers none and forgets none. Its timeless autumn beauty is eternally etched into the fabric of time, more enduring than any human artifice.
The Lesser Khingan Range scenic route, framed by rivers and mountains.
In fact, the Argun River is one of the primary sources of the Amur River (Heilongjiang). As a border river, the Amur is often overlooked by Chinese people: few realize it ranks among the world’s top ten rivers. Its length (counting from the southern source; if measured from the northern source, it surpasses the Yellow River) makes it China’s third-longest river after the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers, while its basin area and water volume far exceed those of the Yellow River.
The Songhua River, flowing through Jilin and Heilongjiang provinces, is a major tributary of the Amur.
Crossing the Greater Khingan Range within Hulunbuir and then following the border highway eastward—with the Amur to the north and the northern foothills of the Lesser Khingan Range to the south—we can travel from Mohe, China’s northernmost city, to Fuyuan, its easternmost city. This so-called "Pole-to-Pole Journey" offers breathtaking autumn views along both banks of the Amur.
Though their names differ by just one character, the Lesser and Greater Khingan Ranges have distinct landscapes. Generally, the Lesser Khingan’s forests are denser and more diverse in tree species. In Maolangou (Jiayin County, Yichun) and the Longjiang Three Gorges and Taipinggou (Luobei County, Hegang), we witness stunning "colorful mountain" scenery:
Korean pines remain emerald green, some deciduous trees turn pale yellow, birch trees retain white bark but their leaves turn gold, while poplars and maples blaze red... "The Colorful Mountains of My Hometown" is a decades-old essay topic for Yichun’s schoolchildren. As kids, they dreaded it, but after leaving home, they realize such dreamlike, kaleidoscopic hills are nowhere else to be found.
The colorful mountains of Yichun’s Lesser Khingan Range.
Towering ancient forests block out the sky, while babbling brooks and fallen leaves carpet the boardwalks. Bold travelers might even nap atop them. Foragers call to one another, joyfully gathering nature’s generous gifts. Only in this season does the great forest reveal such tenderness.
Fishermen along the Amur River store their catch in family ice cellars. Stop by any village, buy fresh fish for stew, and pair it with seasonal wild delicacies—even simple stir-fried mushrooms with meat taste divine.
Finally, arriving at Fuyuan, China’s easternmost point and ancestral home of the Hezhen fishing tribe, the fish are plump and the cooking methods varied. After a hearty fish meal and a deep sleep, wake early to stand in the thin morning mist of the Ussuri River—where you’ll have the privilege of being the first person in China to see the sun rise that day.
The unique fish-drying racks of the Fuyuan Hezhen fishing village.
After exploring the western and northern parts of this "horseshoe," the remaining stretch of Northeast China's autumn corridor lies in the eastern mountainous region centered around Changbai Mountain.
The "Sushen Route," first mentioned in the *Classic of Mountains and Seas*, is the oldest road in Northeast China. It is said to roughly align with today's National Highway 201.
This road starts from Hegang City at the foot of the Lesser Khingan Mountains, runs along the entire eastern part of Northeast China, traverses the core area of Changbai Mountain, follows the Yalu River to the coastal city of Dandong by the Yellow Sea, and then extends along the coast to Dalian. In fact, this route almost perfectly connects all the noteworthy autumn landscapes in eastern Northeast China.
Heading south along National Highway 201, you’ll arrive at Mudanjiang, a city in southeastern Heilongjiang. At the strategic passage between Mudanjiang and Harbin lies an unassuming railway town: Hengdaohezi. Yet, in autumn, this town might be the closest thing to a fairy tale in the country.
Hengdaohezi is most famous for its toy-like, fan-shaped steam locomotive depot. But in truth, this town, which flourished with the Chinese Eastern Railway, still retains 256 Russian-style buildings of various designs. Most of these structures are built entirely of wood, including a delicate, hand-operated, foot-pedal bell-towered small Orthodox church.
The Hengdaohezi locomotive depot resembles a giant fan.
During this season, the wooden buildings and the colorful forests on the distant mountains create a visually harmonious contrast. Fallen leaves resemble uncooked shrimp chips from childhood, their scent blending with the faint woody aroma of the structures. As trains pass and the river flows, the warmth amid the desolation and the awe within the tranquility leave an indelible mark on visitors.
Leaving Hengdaohezi and crossing the Zhangguangcai Mountains along National Highway 201, we gradually approach the core area of Changbai Mountain. Culinary-wise, Northeastern dishes increasingly incorporate Korean elements, growing spicier. In bustling Yanji, Korean-language signs fill the streets. Enjoy an authentic Korean dinner and sing through the night... The surrounding villages also preserve traditional Korean-style houses. On autumn mornings, wisps of smoke rise from chimneys amid the sounds of chickens and dogs, adding a unique charm.
A train running along the autumn railway line in Yanbian, Jilin.
Heading further south from Yanji, you’ll reach Changbai Mountain. This towering volcano is undoubtedly the most renowned and unmissable destination in Northeast China. While beautiful year-round, autumn is its most dazzling season.
Golden birch trees and babbling streams. The staggered forest landscapes across the vast vertical drop reveal exceptionally vibrant colors, distinct from those of the Greater and Lesser Khingan Mountains. If you’re lucky enough to reach Tianchi (Heavenly Lake), you’ll see its autumn waters like a sapphire embedded atop the mountain—said to instantly clear the minds of those who behold it.
Due to Changbai Mountain’s high altitude and complex terrain, autumn arrives early and departs quickly. Sometimes, you might even witness the magical sight of red leaves and snowflakes falling simultaneously. Beyond the usual lake and mountain scenery, in Fusong County, Baishan City, you can also explore Jinjiang Wooden Village, an ancient settlement entirely built of logs.
Jinjiang Wooden Village was constructed by Manchu bannermen returning to worship Changbai Mountain during the Qing Dynasty. The houses are made of logs, roughly shaped with saws, planes, and axes, stacked to form walls, roofs, and chimneys—embodying the purest "log style." Surrounded by secluded mountains, the village exudes a serene, intense autumn atmosphere, distinct from the wooden town of Hengdaohezi.
Continuing south along the ancient route to Ji’an, a small Jilin city preserving the splendid Goguryeo cultural heritage, you’ll notice the roadside leaves growing redder. In fact, the triangular area formed by Ji’an (Jilin), Benxi (Liaoning), and Kuandian (Dandong) boasts China’s most vibrant red-leaf scenery.
Accompanied by the dazzling red leaves, we finally reach the sea, completing this simulated grand tour of Northeast China’s autumn colors.
Autumn red leaves at Dashi Lake, Benxi.
Of course, this grand route includes many breathtaking sights we couldn’t cover, and the vast plains within this "horseshoe" also hold stunning autumn landscapes. To describe them all would likely fill an entire book.
Autumn scenery in Lüjiang Village, Kuandian, Dandong.
Graphics | Sun Lu, Mysterious Seal
Uncredited image source | Visual China Group