What to See in Lijiang
This article is specially produced by OCT Group.
Here is a gathering place of landscapes. The towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain stands within reach, while the roaring Jinsha River rushes wildly.
Here is a time machine. Serpentine paths echo with the tinkling of flowing water, and whitewashed walls with blue tiles exude elegance and simplicity. Every step bears the mark of time, as if traversing past and present.
In 2018 alone, over 46 million people visited this place.
However, the noisy bars and monotonous shops are like "a riot of dazzling flowers," making it hard for most to see the town's original colors.
So, what is the true "essence" of Lijiang? The story begins with a primordial force.
Lijiang is located in northwestern Yunnan, nearly 350 kilometers from Kunming, deep inland and far from bustling cities. Though remote, a primordial force has long been infused into it.
This is a power born from the earth.
Tens of millions of years ago, the Indian and Eurasian plates collided and pushed against each other, creating folds in the earth's crust and towering mountains in eastern Tibet and western Yunnan. A series of massive mountain ranges emerged, stretching north-south and blocking east-west—the Hengduan Mountains.
Here, there are as many as 13 peaks exceeding 5,000 meters. The highest is Shanzidou, the main peak of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, standing at 5,596 meters. In contrast, the lowest point, at the Tangba River estuary in Huaping County, is only 1,015 meters, creating a staggering elevation difference of 4,581 meters.
Diverse terrain and dramatic elevation differences allow nature's mighty force to shape a series of vastly different landscapes, crafting a Lijiang of myriad colors.
At the summit of the peaks lies the pure white of snow-capped mountains.
The towering Jade Dragon Mountain range, with over a dozen peaks above 5,000 meters, guards this land. Located at 27°N latitude, it is the southernmost snow-capped mountain in Asia.
These jagged peaks are masterpieces carved by ancient glaciers. Over a dozen modern glaciers still remain, winding through valleys like white jade dragons, solemn and majestic.
Yet at sunrise and sunset, gentle sunlight bathes the peaks, transforming the icy white into golden hues, softening the austere mountains.
Descending from the summit, the slopes are lush and green.
In summer and autumn, moisture from the southwest monsoon gathers among the mountains, bringing rainfall. The nourished slopes are densely vegetated, blocking out the sky. From afar, green blankets the slopes while white crowns the peaks, as if all four seasons exist on a single mountain.
Through the cycle of seasons, red camellias, multicolored azaleas, and purple cosmos bloom in succession, painting the verdant slopes in vibrant hues.
As the renowned botanist Joseph Rock once said, "Rather than lying on a bed in Hawaii, I would prefer to return to the flower fields of Jade Dragon Mountain."
At the bottom of the deep valleys, the yellow of river water greets you.
Lijiang is home to 91 rivers of varying sizes, which grow in power as they gather tributaries and rainwater along their paths.
Among them, the Jinsha River originates from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, surging from the northwest through narrow mountain gorges, its turbulent yellow waters churning with sediment.
This mighty river, undaunted by boulders or mountains, carves three great bends—the First Bend of the Yangtze River, Yulong Bend, and Yongsheng Bend—through its relentless struggle with the terrain.
Once it breaks free from the mountains, it calms into a winding, tranquil flow of pale green and light blue. Nourished by rain and flowing water, the lush vegetation along its banks complements the river’s beauty.
Rivers converge in low-lying areas, forming scattered lakes of diverse shapes.
Some stretch through mountain valleys like a string of blue pearls nestled among greenery.
Others rest in mountain basins, mirroring the golden hues of sunset, teeming with aquatic plants and vibrant life.
Still others are broader and deeper, their surfaces revealing a profound azure.
Lugu Lake, China’s third-deepest lake with a maximum depth of 93.5 meters, remains ice-free year-round, constantly reflecting the blue sky, green mountains, and lush trees.
Chenghai Lake, spanning 78.8 square kilometers, is the largest in Lijiang. Its elongated oval shape and shimmering waves make it a paradise for aquatic life.
Additionally, there are dozens of plateau lakes in Lijiang, including Wenhai (formed by glacial remnants), Zhongjihai (created by human dredging), Wenbi Lake, and Jiuzi Lake.
Snow-capped mountains, rivers, lakes, verdant trees, and blooming flowers compose Lijiang’s natural canvas, where landscapes and wildlife paint a vibrant masterpiece. Soon, new forces will arrive, weaving even richer and livelier stories.
Tens of thousands of years ago, humans first set foot on this land, traversing mountain valleys in search of a comfortable home.
Some built villages on steep canyon slopes, living alongside the rivers.
Others thrived in broad valleys.
Among them, the Lijiang Basin stands out as an ideal haven.
Spanning over 168 square kilometers, it is the largest basin in the region—flat, expansive, and encircled by mountains, a tranquil world undisturbed.
People cleared the wilderness, cultivating fields of green rice and yellow rapeseed that carpeted the valley.
Gradually, towns emerged to tend the land: Shuhe Old Town, Baisha Old Town, and Dayan Old Town, dotting the valley.
Among them, Dayan Old Town is the famed Lijiang Ancient City, where every street, alley, stream, and courtyard was crafted with human ingenuity, blossoming into a kaleidoscope of colors.
Here, the dark rooftops spread across the land in orderly rows.
The renowned geographer Xu Xiake wrote in his "Diary of a Journey to Yunnan": "Dwellings cluster together, winding along the city and valleys, with tile-roofed houses standing closely side by side."
People seem to favor the color red, using it not only to adorn the Naxi-style "Seven-Star Shoulder Cape" but also to paint their courtyards.
Thus, the courtyards here are adorned with red railings, bright and full of vitality.
Each house has a unique front corridor, typically 1.5-3.0 meters wide, serving as a semi-open space for hosting guests or resting, locally known as a "shàzi."
The shàzi provides a comfortable space for the outdoor-loving people of Lijiang.
Here, the roads are paved with blue bricks, and the worn edges of the bluestone slabs bear the marks of time, witnessing the ancient town's past.
The streets and alleys meander freely, sometimes running alongside the river and sometimes crossing it. The water network and road network are densely intertwined.
Across the rivers stand ancient bridges. The town boasts 365 ancient bridges, ranking among the highest densities in the country. Pedestrians bustle on the bridges while water murmurs beneath. It was once praised as a "little Venice" by the Russian writer Peter Goullart in his novel "The Forgotten Kingdom."
More ingenious and scientific water facilities also emerged, such as the Three-Eyed Well—three wells arranged from high to low for drinking, washing vegetables, and laundry.
Yet, behind the town's color palette lies the wisdom accumulated by ancient people over time.
First, its unique location.
To the north, it leans against Elephant Mountain and Golden Rainbow Mountain; to the west, Lion Mountain shields it from the winter's northern cold. To the southeast, open plains welcome the summer's southwestern breeze.
Settling here, people enjoy a pleasant climate. From March to October, the average monthly temperature ranges between 10-20°C, and even in the coldest month, January, it averages 6°C—truly a place with no severe winters or scorching summers, where spring lingers all year.
Nearly a kilometer north of the town, meltwater from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain forms Black Dragon Pool, which then flows along the foothills into the town. The river is divided into three main branches, further split into dozens of smaller channels, creating a web-like water system throughout the town.
Along the rivers, streets and roads were laid.
The streets are paved with breccia (often called "five-colored stone") quarried nearby. This special material has a natural cleaning function, keeping the streets mud-free in the rainy season and dust-free in the dry season, impeccably clean. After heavy rain, the streets glisten.
Thus, an ancient town was born in Lijiang—livable in environment, unique in water system, and crisscrossed by streets—one of China's rare wall-less cities.
When spring arrives, the courtyards bloom with flowers.
Under the skylights, colorful pebbles form auspicious patterns. In the courtyards and under the eaves, flowers flourish in all seasons. As the saying goes, "In Lijiang, every household loves planting trees, and no home is without flowers."
Outside the courtyards, the streets and alleys are also adorned with a vibrant display of flowers.
Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia campbellii, Yunnan cherry blossoms, crabapple flowers, magnolia flowers, and Catalpa fargesii burst into bloom, creating an extraordinary spectacle.
In the height of summer, lush trees of varying heights dot the landscape.
The dwellings are primarily constructed in two styles: "three-winged house with a screen wall" and "quadrangle with five courtyards." Though geometrically regular, their layouts are flexible—following the undulating terrain or winding along the land's contours.
During crisp autumn days, the rooftops and waterside vegetation take on a rich golden hue.
In the depths of winter, an occasional snowfall transforms the world into a poetic, silver-clad wonderland.
Viewed from above, the overlapping black-and-white roofs create a striking sense of depth.
Red flowers, green trees, blue-gray tiles, and white snow complement one another in harmony.
Thus, with their own hands, people have crafted a vibrant human world nestled within these mountains and rivers. But is the Lijiang we see today still its original self?
In some ways, certainly not.
As time passes, a new urban district has been developed west of the ancient town to accommodate commerce, administration, and cultural activities. When night falls, the glittering lights paint a uniquely modern Lijiang.
The north-south running Lion Mountain further divides the two worlds of the old and new towns.
Yet in other ways, Lijiang remains the same Lijiang.
In the new district, building heights are strictly controlled, rarely exceeding ten stories. At a glance, the new and old towns appear seamlessly integrated.
Within the ancient town, after two years of construction, a 46-acre wooden palace was completed, reviving its former grandeur.
The conveniences of modern life continue to blend with time-honored traditions.
Whether it’s the ancient Dongba script.
Or traditional ethnic customs—their preservation ensures that this culture, tempered by time, continues to enrich the land with new hues.
So, what color is Lijiang?
When dawn light spills onto the glaciers, the eternal cold reveals an unexpected tenderness—at this moment, Lijiang is golden.
The first rays of morning sunlight bathe the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, creating the magnificent spectacle of the "Golden Mountain in Sunshine."
When the tranquil lake mirrors the vast sky like a polished mirror, Lijiang is blue at this moment.
When the ancient eaves stand silently, whispering tales of bygone years, Lijiang is green at this moment.
Indeed, towering mountains, deep valleys, rivers, and lakes have shaped the colorful Lijiang, while human civilization has adorned it with diversity. The cycle of day and night, the changing seasons, and the passage of time have further enriched Lijiang. No single color can encapsulate Lijiang, for it is vibrant and multifaceted.
Only by shedding labels and commercial distractions can we glimpse the true essence of this land and appreciate its most primal hues. "No matter how vast the world is, leave room for simplicity." The most touching aspects are often the purest and most authentic colors of this land, which is the original intention of many travelers visiting Lijiang and also the philosophy upheld by OCT. Start with colors, and rediscover Lijiang with OCT.
Looking back to 1868, a war befell Lijiang, leaving only a handful of courtyards in the ancient town. On February 3, 1996, a 7.0-magnitude earthquake struck Lijiang, collapsing one-third of the homes in the hardest-hit streets. Through the long years, Lijiang has endured countless trials.
The truest colors of this land have always been here, never fading. If the glitz and glamour of society make us forget its original essence, it would be a true regret for humanity.