How Did This Small Northeastern Chinese Town Become Russians' Cross-Border Canteen?

Recently, the Northeast morning markets, already renowned nationwide for their affordable prices and lively atmosphere, have unexpectedly gained a new wave of popularity.

In October, the morning temperature in Heihe, Heilongjiang, hovers around freezing, but this hasn’t stopped crowds of fair-haired, blue-eyed Russians from flocking to the frost-covered markets. They shop and stroll, with some even enjoying steamed buns with vodka amid the steam from breakfast stalls... As these videos spread widely, Heihe, a small border city with the "most international morning market," has stepped into the spotlight.

Russians at the Heihe morning market.

The influx of Russians visiting China’s markets is thanks to the recent mutual visa-exemption policy between China and Russia. In fact, under this new policy, Chinese citizens can also easily travel from several border cities to Russia’s Far Eastern towns, experiencing the charm of European-style small cities and the leisurely Siberian lifestyle...

So, why has Heihe stood out among the cities benefiting from this visa-free policy? What makes it unique among northern border towns? Beyond its Russian connections, what other surprises does this long-overlooked frontier city hold for us to discover?

The China-Russia land border stretches 4,300 kilometers, dotted with many vibrant border cities. For instance, Manzhouli in Inner Mongolia, and Suifenhe and Heihe in Heilongjiang—each has its own advantages, specialties, and appeal. Yet, Heihe possesses one truly unique feature.

As a prefecture-level city, Heihe covers a vast area, but a glance at the map reveals that its main urban district, Aihui, lies at the very edge of its administrative region, tightly hugging the Amur River. The city’s layout and infrastructure follow the river’s flow and revolve around the Sino-Russian port, making it a true "borderland city."

Meanwhile, just across the river, Blagoveshchensk (abbreviated as "Blag" and historically known as "Hailanpao" in China), the third-largest city in Russia’s Far East, also has its main urban area closely aligned with the border river. The two cities thus form a tightly connected "twin-city" structure, with the closest points only 70 meters apart—close enough that if one side’s square-dancing aunties are lively, the other side can likely hear them.

So, how did this pair of river-facing twin cities come to be?

During the Qing Dynasty, the Amur River basin, as part of the forbidden "Dragon’s Rising Land," was largely wild and sparsely populated. Starting from the Kangxi era, to counter Russian territorial ambitions, the old Aihui Fort (now in Heihe’s riverside suburbs) and Mergen (today’s Nenjiang City under Heihe’s jurisdiction) successively served as headquarters for the Heilongjiang General. This marks Heihe’s notable early settlement history.

Heihe and Blagoveshchensk, twin cities facing each other across the river.

By the late Qing Dynasty, as the court weakened, Russia seized the opportunity to annex the traditional settlement of Hailanpao on the left bank of the Amur, transforming it into a modern city. Soon, Blagoveshchensk, connected to deep European Russia via the Trans-Siberian Railway, grew into a key Far Eastern hub. This history carries much pain, but Heihe Tun, facing Blagoveshchensk across the river, also thrived as a trade center, eventually replacing the burned-down old Aihui Fort and evolving into today’s Heihe urban area.

This unique settlement history ensures that even without Russian tourists crowding the morning markets, Russian influences are everywhere in Heihe—from rows of specialty shops and Russian-style buildings to the local riverside communities of ethnic Russian minorities. Take, for example, the long-time internet sensation "Uncle Peter," with his unmistakably Caucasian features and thick Northeastern accent—he’s a native of Xunke County in Heihe.

Russian elements are ubiquitous in Heihe.

Beyond this visible national border, Heihe holds another, more hidden identity—remember the "Heihe-Tengchong Line" (or Hu Line) from middle school geography? The "Heihe" in that line refers to this very city. As the endpoint of the Hu Line, Heihe holds significant demarcation meaning for China’s population, climate, and cultural geography.

Diagram of the Hu Line and China’s population density distribution.

First-time visitors to Heihe are often struck by its boundless forests—nestled between the Greater and Lesser Khingan Mountains, Heihe boasts exceptionally high forest coverage. These mountains are home to indigenous groups like the Oroqen, Evenki, and Daur, whose lives are woven with countless mysterious and legendary forest tales.

Autumn forest scenery in Heihe.

At the same time, Heihe is undeniably an agricultural powerhouse, producing more soybeans than any other Chinese city. This is because its southern region lies at the junction of the Lesser Khingan Mountains and the Songnen Plain, the latter being Northeast China’s largest plain, with incredibly fertile flatlands. Thanks to this, Heilongjiang consistently ranks as China’s top grain-producing province.

Fertile farmland and pristine forests coexist within Heihe, epitomizing the significance of the Hu Line. Zooming out—southeast of Heihe lies Heilongjiang’s vast plains, dotted with major agricultural and industrial cities; northwestward stretch the Greater Khingan Mountains and the Hulunbuir grasslands, picturesque but sparsely populated.

The farmland within Heihe is home to China's largest soybean production base.

More interestingly, in Heihe, there is an ancient post road built during the Qing Dynasty, starting from Nenjiang and ending in Mohe, traversing vast forests and crossing the Hu Huanyong Line, connecting the Songnen Plain with the depths of the Greater Khingan Mountains. This post road left behind many ancient relay stations named with numbers, such as Erzhan, Sanzhan, and Shibazhan. These stations were originally garrisoned by rebel forces like Wu Sangui, who spoke Yunnan-Guizhou dialects, wore summer attire from those regions, and gradually blended with the local Northeast and hunter cultures, forming the unique "Zhanren" culture of Heilongjiang. Today, this ancient post road has become an excellent route for self-driving travelers crossing the Greater Khingan Mountains.

Apart from the aforementioned ancient post road, the most captivating route in Heilongjiang is National Highway G331, which runs along the border. On one side lies the broad boundary river, occasionally revealing the domes of churches on the opposite bank; on the other side stretches endless forests, picturesque in scenery. Along the way, fishermen's cellars in villages store freshly caught river fish, incredibly delicious... Heihe, the largest city on this route and the junction of the Greater and Lesser Khingan Mountains, is undoubtedly the most important hub for forest travel in Heilongjiang—bar none.

Heihe, the Rime Island deep in the Lesser Khingan Mountains.

Even more intriguingly, beyond conventional forest travel, Heihe boasts a unique landscape and culture rarely found in other forested cities: volcanoes and volcanic spring water culture.

A little-known fact: Northeast China has the highest concentration of Cenozoic volcanoes in the country, and two of the most famous are located in Heilongjiang. One is Jingpo Lake in Mudanjiang, China's largest lava-dammed lake; the other is the Wudalianchi volcanic cluster in Heihe. In fact, volcanic activity in Heihe has been highly active over millions of years, with its last major eruption occurring during the Qing Dynasty, forming the famous dammed lake "Wudalianchi." The region's undulating and varied volcanoes are hailed as a natural volcanic museum, creating a spectacular sight when combined with the autumn forests of the Northeast.

Among Heihe's nationally protected cultural heritage sites, one particularly interesting location is the Oroqen Sacred Spring Altar Ruins. This is the only physical relic left from the ancient hunting life of the Oroqen people. Originally a volcanic spring, the ancient Evenki people discovered that its mineral-rich water was highly beneficial for both drinking and bathing. Over time, it became known as the "Sacred Spring," and healed Oroqen people built stone towers, gradually developing them into a magnificent altar.

The volcanic spring water culture represented by this altar is not unique in Heihe. Due to the abundance of volcanic mineral springs in the region, traditions of drinking and bathing for health and healing have persisted. The most representative example is the "Yaoquan" (Medicinal Spring) culture of Wudalianchi. The spring water here has been certified by numerous institutions as exceptionally high-quality natural mineral water, earning countless accolades. As a result, many sanatoriums have been built around it. Though they carry a strong "retired cadres" vibe from the last century, they remain a distinctive feature—today, even Russians visit these sanatoriums in groups to experience the healing power of Wudalianchi's springs. Locals even celebrate an annual "Drinking Water Festival," with three days off, showcasing their pride in this volcanic spring water culture...

Tourists collecting spring water at Wudalianchi.

Of course, beyond forests and springs, Heihe's local products are also highly distinctive. With the Khingan Mountains and the Heilongjiang River, the region boasts countless river delicacies and mountain treasures. Whether it’s locally produced blueberries, various nuts, rare mushrooms from the Greater Khingan Mountains, or river fish like salmon from the Heilongjiang River, in Heihe, you can easily find high-quality products at fair prices.

Top left, top right / Traveler Zixian

Finally, in terms of food, beyond the expected Northeastern dishes like "kill-pork stew" and iron-pot stews, Heihe's most distinctive cuisine is Russian food. Many places in Heilongjiang offer authentic Russian meals, but the most discerning foodies head straight to Heihe—thanks to its unique twin-city advantage and over a century of close exchanges with Russia, Heihe's Russian restaurants are no longer just novelties but offer genuine, simple, and affordable options for the masses. Even locals often prefer Russian kebabs over Northeastern barbecue, with their juicy, massive meat chunks—whether they’re Russian or Chinese hardly matters... After all, while the world may have unavoidable boundaries, taste buds know none.

Enjoying authentic Russian cuisine in Heihe.